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Oia

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    • Day 7

      Galicia!!

      April 14 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

      Nothing better than waking up before daybreak, grabbing your backpack and jumping into a taxi with a speeding driver who is listening to thumping Calvin Harris techno music as he careens down small streets to deposit you at the marina- we’re awake now! Obrigato senhor! Our boat captain was jolly and happy but the young guys that were with us were very concerned that we get in and out of the small skiff without falling in the water 😂 We arrived to the beach (and Spain!) and started hiking. The early morning sandy paths we were walking on were through a pine forest and then out again to the seaside. As waves crashed we could smell the sea salt and feel the spray- invigorating! We marched ahead until the first café and stopped for tea and coffee, banana toasts and empanadas. After refreshments we headed to the town of A Guarda and the beautiful 16th century church of Santa Maria- we arrived just as Mass was finishing but went in for prayers and blessings. The church is filled with paintings, statues, stained glasses and painted wood icon altar pieces- lovely!! So easy to be reverent in these holy places full of beauty. We next passed the chapel of the Virgin de Guia with the Way of the Cross outside complete with tall granite crosses. Now that we are in Spain we also see more granite in the fixed Camino markers that give the exact mileage to Santiago de Compostella- it’s great to see those numbers dwindling ( slowly ) and we sisters are all so determined to keep walking. We encourage each other and laugh and chat. And we pray together and we even have been singing religious hymns from our childhood along the way. I’m sure the Sisters of Mercy from St. Mary’s school in tiny Rockledge, Florida would be proud. We, on the other hand, are grateful for our Catholic upbringing and school and the selflessness of the nuns who taught us. And we keep walking! Some of the paths are rocky and some areas of them are muddy and treacherous from last week’s rains. After 14 miles of glorious weather we entered the tiny hamlet of Oia, a beachside gem. The Monastery of Santa Maria La Réal stands majestically directly on the beachfront. It is Romanesque in design and from 1137- it has been used as a monastery, a place for prayer and a defensive site against attacks from pirates. Tonight as we entered the village, the townspeople were gathered around the town square talking and laughing and enjoying the evening- we did laundry hurriedly and had a delicious seafood dinner with fresh scallops and shrimp and watched the sun set- tomorrow will come early and we must be prepared to keep heading north!Read more

    • Day 6

      Last day in Portugal

      April 13 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

      Woke up this morning to furtive rustling and lights on too early- sleeping in hostels means you must resign to the fact that everyone is on their own journey and your timetable may not concur with the other pilgrim’s schedules- our haste to get on the road forgives them, we say a morning prayer of thanks for a safe arrival last night, look forward and off we go! We first stopped in at the beautiful sanctuary atop of the mountain- dedicated to San Luzia- the church and the views outside were magnificent. Today we hiked and hiked- 17.7 miles! - strenuous going through some mountain paths with rocks and boulders to scramble over- also altitude changes and some serious uphills climbing over and down - we encouraged each other and leaned in to this trial. At last we made it back to the coast and some small villages- at one café we were treated when a local woman arrived with a homemade tart de Santiago and insisted that we all try some and then refused to let us pay her- such generosity! By the end of the day we were exhausted- we arrived in A Guarda at 7:45 pm- such a long day! But we certainly appreciated the beauty and kindness of Portugal and its people- we enjoyed a typical Portuguese dinner in the down square and collapsed gratefully into our hostel- tomorrow Spain!!Read more

    • Day 15

      Day 7 - Caminha to Oia

      Yesterday in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

      I think we were smuggled into Spain today……

      Getting up and going today was hard. Probably because we were all unusually sound asleep when the alarm went off. The thought of walking all day had lost its appeal. But today was not a day to dawdle as we had paid ahead for breakfast at the Albergue and a taxi to the river to catch a boat for Spain.

      Well breakfast was great and then the taxi showed up as promised. Four of us were loaded in and then sped away through the streets of Caminha like we were in a 007 movie. We held on for dear life and were then dumped off at an obscure place on the river where three guys were waiting for us and yelling 6€! 6€! We had our money ready, threw it at guy #1, was loaded into the boat by guy #2 and guy #3 threw us each a life jacket and just said “policia” which we understood that he was only giving us a life jacket because it was the law. It was a crazy 15 minute boat ride across a choppy river with water slashing in the boat the whole way. We laughed until we cried 😂
      The driver pulled up on the opposite shore (no dock) and we jumped out, he waved, and backed away and off he went. We were now standing on the shore of Spain with zero direction where to go. Again we laughed until we cried 😂

      This was the beginning of the best day ever. Perfect weather (again), perfect views, great second breakfast stop, fun conversations with other pilgrims, another amazing Albergue with free washer AND DRYER (so no handwashing today!!)

      I don’t want to jinx it but this may be the best Camino day EVER. ❤️
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    • Day 11

      Day 6 on the camino

      October 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

      We left Portugal and traveled by a "water taxi" to Spain. Another day of beach, forest and road travel with some lovely stops along the way. We took Alayne Sinclair's advice finally and stopped for a "second breakfast" of "pum king" cake and almond cake with cappuccino. We stopped for lunch in Portocelos and had some great food - calamari and a bocadillo - but more importantly we enjoyed a beautiful view. Finally we arrived Villadesuso and our beautiful guest house. Mary and I were the only guests. Our host drove us into town for a great dinner (two amazing salads) overlooking the water and picked us up to bring us home and we are now sitting in the comfy lounge enjoying some quiet time. Finally, Mary's photo of the donkey outside her window at our guest house.Read more

    • Day 12

      Day 7 on the Camino

      October 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Started our day with an amazing breakfast at our guest house in Villadesusa after which we headed off down the rural roads on a cool morning. Came across the local town cemetery. Not too far along the same road we discovered another pilgrim cairn with many more stones than what we have previously seen. It seems the local people are contributing some beautifully painted stones. I of course liked the cat one. We walked into As Marinas and stopped for lunch at a beautiful hotel with an upper patio overlooking the water and ordered a couple of delicious salads. Then on to Baiona - another beautiful town of 12,000+ people - where we visited the castle overlooking the city and then had a tapas dinner and some great Spanish Vermouth.Read more

    • Day 7

      Caminhas -> Viladesuso

      August 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Halbzeit!

      Wir haben heute die 145km Marke geknackt und sind nun auf halber Strecke nach Santiago! 😊
      Die Etappe mit rund 26km führte heute im Wechsel am Meer und Straße entlang.

      Im Zielort angelangt, gingen wir in eine kleine Bar und ließen den Abend bei Billard und Bier ausklingen. 🙂Read more

    • Day 8

      OMG

      September 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      This really is the most beautiful Albergue in the most beautiful setting imaginable. Everyone nearly all solo walkers have already arranged to visit local restaurant together tonight . Feeling quite mellow. Oh and Laundry in the washer !😛Read more

    • Day 8

      Caminha til Villadesuso

      April 15 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

      En ny dag og et nytt land. Caminha hvor vi startet dagens vandring, er en grenseby til Spania, skilt fra Spania av elven Rio Mino. Vi tok en taxibåtene over elven og fortsatte vår vandring i Spania på Senda Litoral (kystruten). Vi fortsatte opp langs kysten, på en blanding av plankestier og grusveier. Støtte på trær som var påmalt symboler. Siden vi er i Galicia, er det nærliggendes å tro at de er keltiske. Vi var snart fremme i A.Guarda en mindre kystby, hvor vi inntok en bedre frokost - en stor frokost. Tim går raskere enn meg og snart mistet jeg ham av syne. Det skulle senere vise seg at han hadde rotet seg litt bort og tok en lengre og mer kronglete vei.
      Veien videre gikk gjennom et typisk kystlandskap, med Nord Atlanteren på den ene siden og en blanding av et kulturlandskap og beitemark på den andre siden. Noe vandring ble det også langs en bilvei, en bra veiskulder og lite trafikk gjorde den biten grei. Jeg passerte en liten by, Oia, som har et eldre kloster - Monasterio de Oia XII.
      Snart var jeg framme i Villadesuso og Albergue de Estrela. En hyggelig Albergue. Tim kom et par timer sende rød i toppen etter en strevsom ferd.
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    • Day 25

      Oia #6

      June 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      #6camino an easy walk along the Atlantic coast. Incredibly peaceful and only a slight breeze. After a catch-up coffee with US and Hungarian walkers we arrived in the fishing village of Oia with its historic Monastery of Santa Marta de Oia. Our home Puerta Casa is delightful and there is an amazing restaurant on the waterfront. I am writing this from our ‘secret garden’ by the sea. I loved meeting up with my border collie friends from Hungary, Pancake and Pressa🐾🐾❤️🇵🇹Read more

    • Day 9

      Hola España!

      October 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

      The day started with a totally bizarre experience. I ran into a woman who I had spoken to at a Brandi Carlile concert in July! Her name is Kay Kay, (yes, really! Her first and last name are the same) and we decided we are destined to be friends. We are planning on getting together after we both get home.
      Anyhow…after that I walked down to the water taxi, plunked down my 6 Euros and boarded the teeny tiny boat to cross the river. Voila! I’m in Spain! And to my sister’s point, I can now ply my fluent Spanglish with wild abandon! I’m walking by the coast again but it’s more forest-y if that makes sense. I’ve cooled my heels somewhat on collecting pilgrim friends. Allowing it to happen naturally instead of trying to collect them like tokens.. But I am seeing what people mean when they talk about a Camino family. You do see many of the same people throughout, and when you run into each other it’s like long lost friends- greeting with a hug. I think it’s sort of like when kids go to summer camp - the friendships form so quickly because of shared experience.
      I ran into Almuria (the South African vía Dublín nurse) yesterday in Caminha. She didn’t have the time off to do the whole Camino so she was heading for the train station to take her through the next couple of stages. Today I saw Silva from the Czech Republic. She had caught up to her friend Hannah and they were making slow but steady progress.
      My body and feet seem to be holding up ok so far. I have made a resolution to stay away from the bakery. Lycra only stretches so far..
      About a mile out of Oia, where I am staying tonight, I came upon a small field with a beautiful black horse. It was overlooking a gorgeous section of coast. I have been looking for a place to leave Katie’s stone, and in my mind’s eye I had been looking for maybe a big field with horses. But with the view from this place I started thinking maybe this was it. I ultimately decided to wait and think about it overnight and if I felt that was it I’ll go back in the morning. Then, as I was looking through my pictures from the day, I noticed that I had taken 4-5 pics of cats. I HATE cats. But Kate loved them. So now I’m thinking it’s a sign. I’m gonna sleep on it.
      I mean- I know that Kate is in a better place already. The stone placing thing is more for me. When I think of her last days I have this image in my head of her all alone, laying prone in that hospital with nobody she loved there to rub her back or hold her hand. I want to replace that image with one of her in a setting in which I know she would have found joy.
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