Spain
Ourense

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    • Day 36

      Palas de Rei to Ardue

      June 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      Today was hard. Just shy of 30km on rolling terrain most of the day. The sun was also out most of the day as well, so it was hot. I have developed something I have never experienced before, but you see it on the Camino all the time, "hiker's rash". I actually had it on my ankle at the beginning of the Camino, and it just went away, but now I have developed it on the back of my left arm. It doesn't hurt, just a bit red and itchy. Nothing a bit cortisone cream won't cure. Add that to the pharmacy I carry with me everyday.

      The terrain today was quite varied. The Camino begins to leave the oak and chestnut trees and now we are entering eucalyptus trees quite a bit. They smell wonderful. But the terrain also was on some roads, some busier than others, through villages and hamlets which are becoming increasingly more prosperous looking.

      The day was a bit more challenging because a school group of Irish girls are also hiking this last 100 km and seem to be on the same schedule as me, and though they are lovely and pleasant, I could do without the blaring music and their renditions of ABBA. So I found myself a few times, just stopping and waiting for a bit till they were further ahead.

      However, having said that, I am not a perfect pilgrim either. I had a what's app conversation with Claire for a bit, and then a video conversation with Christian in the last part of my day. They were both a welcome reprieve from a long day that was getting harder with every kilometre. It is not often that it is already nearly 6 pm before I am showered and getting organized. After two long days back to back, I am looking forward to a short 18 km day tomorrow.

      I visited the church of Iglesia de Santa Maria in San Xulian do Camino where legend says that the statue of Mary that was suppose to reside in the church kept being found by the fountain. In the 14th century, the villagers repeatedly put her back in the church, but she kept escaping, so they sculpted her into the wall to keep her firmly in the church!

      The Camino passes through a larger city of Melide, and though I was tempted by the "polpo" (octopus) which is a staple in this region of Galicia, I walked on through and thought that after a shower and some fresh clothes, and a glass of wine, I might enjoy it a bit more. It is a bit like lobster...I think they just boil it and serve it with some salt, and perhaps a sauce or spice. I have had it once already a couple of towns ago, and it is good. You just have to get over the fact that it looks like octopus, not the "calamari" we get which is considerably more appetizing and breaded!
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    • Day 16

      Day 52 - A Day in Ourense-Magosto Fiesta

      November 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Weather: 9 - 21 and sunny 🌞
      Feels like I have had a short winter and am back in Spring. 🙏🙏🙏

      The unfolding of an interesting day.
      At breakfast I started having a conversation with my roommate, Rebecca - although I didn’t ask her name till much later. Rebecca was having a day and night In Ourense before going to a yoga weekend in a nearby town. We chatted for a long time and the outcome was that we had a lovely day together.
      The Cathedral
      We started to head for the Tourist Information Centre but got sidetracked by the cathedral which was open and getting ready for a service associated with today’s Chestnut Fiesta. We looked and sat for quite a while - it was beautiful with good energy - and then continued on - but after getting all the info at the Tourist Centre we somehow ended up back at the cathedral where the service was about to begin.
      Of course now we stayed for the religious celebrations. The cathedral was full with lots of VIP types in the front rows. The ceremonies began with a procession of Galician bagpipers followed by men in white carrying a sacred statue. There was beautiful singing - choir and solo. It was an uplifting and interesting experience and in some ways reminded me of India where they also parade statues of great beings and sing and chant.
      We left when the speeches started because I couldn’t understand any of what they said.
      The service left us with a calm and uplifted feeling ready for the next event.

      Next the thermal pools
      By that time Rebecca had decided she wanted to stay in Ourense a bit longer than planned and wanted to revisit the thermal pools. She had been yesterday. So we hopped in her car and off we went. I felt very grateful because otherwise it would mean me deciphering the public transport or doing the 60 minute walk.
      We went to the ‘private’ pool - Outariz Thermal Station - which has a Japanese theme: lots of pools of different temperatures, pools with spa jets, cold pools to alternate with the hot, gentle music playing and notices encouraging silence and reflection. It took a while for me to relax into the experience but when I did it was blissful. I only got out when the body said that was enough for one day. If I lived in Ourense the ‘terma’ would be a regular event. For €5.70 you get a locker and two hours of bliss. Sorry no photos allowed. But I did take one of the public pool.
      https://www.turismodeourense.gal/en/recurso/est…

      The food expo came next
      This was a bit out of town - where we hoped to get something to eat. A bit of a disappointment in that the three course meals were between €30 and €60 but with pretty incredible menus. We had a look around and snacked on the free food. From what she shared, Rebecca seemed to be a bit of a foodie. She knew what foods were specialities in which areas and towns. Somehow I felt guilty taking the free food when I was never going to buy anything. But it was interesting to see the focus on good food in Galicia - and it shows in the meals I have had so far.
      Rebecca had a phone meeting so I had time to do a bit of journaling before we headed back to town.

      The Magosta Fiesta
      At 6 pm there was a concert and free roasted chestnuts in the Plaza Major. We got there a little before 6 and with Rebecca’s bold youth we quietly jumped the already huge queue to get our cone of chestnuts. She had to head off quickly and I had come all the way from Australia so I didn’t feel too bad about our bold move. The Spanish wait very patiently and when I left around 6.45 there was a queue around the corner and up the street.
      There was all sorts of local music and people dressed up as well-known traditional characters- with giant heads. It was great fun.
      The chestnuts were a bit of a disappointment - not so fresh - not as good as the ones the Korean girl roasted a few night ago. Nevertheless I had participated in the Magosta Fiestal and was very happy that I had participated in the free chestnut experience and heard some of the local music.
      However … on the way back to the hostel I chomped a chestnut on my sensitive tooth. It was very painful and I became grumpy and impatient with every one and everything. I remembered a saying of one of my teachers - trying to get pleasure from the world brings pounds of pain. Even though I had a lovely day I was reminded that all joy and happiness resides within.

      Buen Camino

      PS: After a good sleep, meditation and reflection, the next morning looked bright and cheerful again.

      Hostel Grelo
      Both the hospitalaros here speak English which is such a bonus for us Spanish deficient pilgrims. 😄
      The building is just on the edge of the old town and has three dorms. I think there are 6 of us here and spread out through the dorms so we are not in top of each other. There is a kitchen and lounge area. For €15 you get sheets, blankets (although I still used my sleeping bag/blanket as their blankets are a bit thin) and a towel and breakfast included. In Spain that is always toast or light pastry and coffee/ teas etc. because most people have eaten a big meal at 8.30 pm or later.
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    • Day 40

      adeus portugal

      April 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Heute ist unser letzter Tag in Portugal. Und wir verlassen das Land, das uns so viele Überraschungen beschert hat, mit dunklen Wolken und Regen. Das macht den Abschied etwas leichter. Auf dem Weg zurück nach Spanien erhaschen wir von einem Aussichtspunkt noch einen Blick auf eine "Douro-Schleife". 👍
      👍🥴
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    • Day 89

      Baden in heißen Quellen 🧖🏾😅

      October 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Auf unserer heutigen Route lagen die heißen Quellen von Ourense. Diese konnten wir uns natürlich nicht entgehen lassen.

      Entlang des Flussufers gab es mehrere warme Becken zum Baden und Entspannen. Im ersten Becken hatten wir allerdings etwas Pech mit dem Publikum. Weshalb wir dann nochmal etwas weiter gefahren sind. Dort war es zwar voller (zusätzlich ist heute nämlich spanischer Feiertag), aber dafür angenehmer. Im
      40 °C warmen Wasser haben wir es uns gut gehen lassen.

      War mal was ganz Neues für uns 😊☺️.

      Abends mussten wir noch Max sein Bett ausbauen, um es zu reparieren… es hat sich im Laufe der Zeit verbogen und dabei ist eine Leiste rausgebrochen 🫣… die Männer haben das bestens gemeistert 👍🏻☺️
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    • Day 17

      Day 53 - Cea - 25 km

      November 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

      Weather: 7 - 22 and sunny
      Clothes: short sleeve merino top, lightweight fleece, rain jacket, trek pants. The jacket and fleece came off as the day progressed.

      The day
      A cup of tea with breakfast at the hostel and a coffee soon after in a Bar got me going for the walk out of Ourense and the long slow climb out of the valley.
      Today was mainly along village roads and tracks with plenty of variety and interest. I stopped often and snacked on food in my pack. A lovely warm and sunny day.
      I stopped for another ‘poco’ coffee at the half way point but it seemed too early for lunch. Then there were villages but no Bars for a long time till I finally struggled into the Bar at Biduedo - not that far from Cea. I asked for food and was offered some cold beef and chips - I was so hungry that it all tasted most delicious. Yum!! And gave me the energy for the last few kms.
      The Albergue is in a quaint old building at the start of the town. Time for a shower and trip to the shop for a bit of dinner and snacks for tomorrow.

      Reflection
      I notice today as the km countdown continues - only some 80 km to go - a feeling of joy and happiness arose. I think I better understand the feelings of sadness that have been with me over the past week or so - perhaps a normal grieving process about many things including the end of this Camino.
      Walking Camino gives you the opportunity to reflect on and let go of many known and unknown burdens - some feather light and some much heavier.
      These past few days I have often had the feeling that I have left something behind - and it feels like I have.
      I am looking forward to discovering what these last days have in store for me.

      Buen Camino
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    • Day 38

      Villar de Barrio - Ourense 37 km

      June 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      After a chat with the ladies today we decided that we would like to spend some time in Oursense, the ladies wanted to try the famous sulphur baths and I wanted to do some sightseeing, and some shopping for essential supplies. The only way that we would have the time to do that was to get there today, so it was agreed that Meg, Kathleen, Anita and I would walk part of the way then hop in a taxi to shorten the time. Mirjam and Anne were going to walk the full 37km (young, fit and fearless).

      Kathleen found and booked an Airbnb in Ourense for two nights. So we slept late and set off at 0830. The path was mostly very flat and the landscape unremarkable but we made good time to Xunqueira de Ambia. Anne had sent us a photo of Mirjam enjoying a late breakfast in a café there so we went looking for it. (Yes they had left before us!) Meg had a terrible cup of tea but the coffee was good and the barman called for a taxi to take us into Ourense.

      We had a bit of bother finding the Airbnb, it turned out that the building numbers were old and no longer in use but we got there eventually. The apartment was great, two bedrooms, a great bathroom and well fitted kitchen/living area. It had everything we needed, including a coffee machine! It was also right around the corner from the cathedral where we would need to get our credentials stamped and well located for all kinds of shopping.

      As we were walking near the apartment, much to our surprise and great delight we met Julia, and so we all went out for lunch together with Julia leading the way, and in another happy 'coincidence' Guillermo joined us as well, it felt a little like we were getting the band back together! The food was good and the conversation flowed the way it does around meal tables.

      Later that night, Mirjam arrived, she had gotten into Ourense late and we suggested that she stay in the Airbnb with us. When I set off that morning from Villar de Barrio, I was sad because I would not see her again until this time next week, so I was delighted to see her now, even for just a short time. She had just walked a hard 37 km and had 24 km to do tomorrow with a very long very steep incline, so I was happy to be able to give up my bed for her. I slept on the surprisingly comfortable couch. Although we were in the very centre of the city, all was quiet, and we slept in peace.
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    • Day 84

      Ourense's hospitality

      November 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      I have found it: the place where I am a friend, not just a traveler.

      So I made a plan to leave my bike in Ourense while I go to Madrid. Now I look for someone to look after the bike and go to the first hostel near the station.
      I tell the man behind the counter my problem and he agrees to look after the bike for a week - without payment - just like that.

      I cycle around the city and then return to the hostel to park the bike and book a room.
      After paying, I take the bags off the bike and put them at the foot of the stairs leading to the rooms - a few metres away from the bike. While I am setting up the pile of bags, the owner indicates to me to quickly get the bike off the street, because here in the lobby he has an overview and it will not be stolen. A waiter is briefly initiated by the owner and then helps me carry the bike into the cellar.

      Later that evening, I have all the bags packed and the most important things organised. At the bar I see the waiter, who greets me with a smile and asks directly what I would like. I order a beer and take it to my room.

      Later still, I come to the bar again. The waiter sees me, pulls an ice-cold beer out from under the counter and looks at me questioningly. I nod and smile, he smiles, we understand each other - everything's perfect. 😁
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    • Day 51

      D46 rest day Ourense

      April 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

      Visit the Cathedral, couldn’t talle
      Photos inside and no god distant views on the outside for photos. Also spent the afternoon at some hot springs, there were several along the river but went to a more developed one… also couldn’t take photos 🤷‍♂️ Oh well, a good rest day. Not my favorite city, some old buildings but no real historic town center feel.Read more

    • Day 40

      adeus portugal

      April 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Heute ist Sonntag und wir wagen eine Fahrt nach Porto. Unser Ziel ist die Brücke "Ponte Louis". Hier genießen wir den Ausblick auf einige Sehenswürdigkeiten dieser tollen Stadt. Man kann einen Marathonlauf erkennen, die Seilbahn "Teleférico de Gaia". Letztere verbindet über den Douro hinweg die Altstadt von Porto mit der benachbarten Stadt Vila Nova de Gaia. 👍😊
      Obwohl die Wallfahrtskirche "Viana do Castelli" auf dem Monte Santa Luzia recht alt aussieht, wurde sie erst im Jahr 1904 erbaut.
      Sie ist immer einen Abstecher wert. Wir waren überrascht, daß wir auf Anhieb einen Parkplatz ergattern konnten.👍🤭
      Unser letztes Ziel in Portugal ist der "Miradouro do Cervo ". Ein schöner Aussichtspunkt an der Mündung des Rio Minho, wo der Fluss in den Ozean mündet. Auf der anderen Seite des Flusses liegt Galicien.
      Adios Portugal, willkommen Spanien
      In Ourense, Spanien, haben wir uns für 3 Nächte einquartiert. Die Wohnung hat eine Waschmaschine, die wir sofort genutzt haben. Und morgen geht unser Auto zwecks Inspektion in eine Werkstatt. Damit ist dieses kleine Problem auch gelöst. Wir werden die Zeit nutzen und uns ein wenig regenerieren.👍🤭😊
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    • Day 42

      Sightseeing

      April 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Eine schöne Strecke entlang der Sillschlucht führt von Ourense auf der Nationalstraße N-120 entlang der linken Uferseite des Flusses Miño in nordöstlicher Richtung bis kurz vor den Zusammenfluss von Miño und Sil bei Os Peares. Unterwegs machen wir einen Abstecher zu der Aussichtsplattform O bambán do solpor. Hier genießen wir die tolle Aussicht auf die Berge rund um die Sillschlucht. Und die Schaukel für zwei ist der Hammer!
      Das Kloster "San Estevo de Ribas de Sil " war die wichtigste Klosteranlage der Ribeira Sacra. Heute ist es ein Luxushotel der Parador-Kette. Wir genießen hier Kaffee und Kuchen🥧😋😋
      Dafür, daß wir heute gar nichts tun wollten, haben wir doch tolle Dinge erlebt und gesehen. Auf der Rückfahrt waren wir zum ersten Mal auf dieser Reise in einem Carrefour, der europäischen Variante des amerikanischen Walmart. Mein Gott, da kann man sich verlaufen. Ein Einkauf = 1/2 Marathon🥴😀
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Ourense

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