Spain
Palas de Rey

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    • Day 42

      Portomarin to Palas de Rei

      June 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

      I had another early start but it was very foggy so there was no beautiful sunrise. It was quite a climb for the first few hours but it was still so foggy that you couldn’t see what you were climbing or where you’d come from.

      After about 5kms we reached the top of a hill and there was a van and some tables set up with fruit, juice and coffee. But unfortunately it wasn’t a donativo, it was the breakfast for the large tour group that had been walking alongside me. Very disappointing! Fortunately there was a real breakfast stop around 7 kms and I sat out in the sunshine with my bacon and eggs, fresh orange juice and coffee.

      Soon after the fog lifted but the sky began to darken. And then it poured. And it poured. And it poured. The first rain I have had on the whole Camino.

      Palas de Rei isn’t as vibrant as the last few stays. I had an big lunch and some ice cream for dinner and then an early night.

      Albergue Mesón de Benito
      20kms
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    • Day 43

      Palas de Rei to Arzua

      June 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

      It was a long and noisy night. And so airless. Everyone came in yesterday afternoon wet and tired and closed the door and windows of the dormitory - by morning you can imagine how it was!

      My foot was particularly painful today and I wondered if I would be able to go on. The path was so crowded and loud. It is so different to the last month - a totally different experience.

      Luckily Johan and Tony are staying in this town too and we caught up for a few drinks this afternoon/evening. Because my walk has been so disjointed I have lost track of most of the people I’ve met on the way and it was so good to be with some familiar faces from home. I feel a lot better and am looking forward to tomorrow.

      A Casa do Lajueiro
      10kms
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    • Day 9

      Forth day

      April 15 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      Hola it’s Eloise

      Sorry I forgot to do this yesterday it has been a full on week.

      Yesterday we walked 10 Oman’s saw lots of cool things like more giant bees 🐝, a gumtree forest and lots of scallop shells! And don’t worry I got lots of pictures.

      Now before I forget it’s time for Spanish word of the day today’s word is Gracias witch means thank you.

      Gracias everyone for reading this blog

      From Eloise
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    • Day 23

      Palais de Rei

      June 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

      Got here in very short order, despite moderate discomfort. Should give some time to see this town and perhaps get a wax stamp from the store that offered the first Camino wax stamp, La Tienda de Ionut. This is the home of the Spanish ParaOlympic athlete Ionut Preda who has carved out his own business niche here. Dinner will have to be in town, as my lodging, La Cabaña had their main building burn down. But the log cabins were preserved! And they have a nice tented eating area for drinks and breakfast.

      Met Ronin a British cyclist living in New York. He started in London in early May and biked through France to St. Jean all The Way to here he will finish tomorrow. An avid vinophile, he was lucky to have met a winemaker in Bierzo who invited him to visit, so he carved out a 25 km detour near Villafranca del Bierzo. He reports that rural France is in very tough shape after Covid, being vulnerably dependent on the one market or the one baker in town.

      I went to Ionuts´ shop and got the amazing stamp (for free with a t-shirt!)
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    • Day 39

      Palas de Rei

      October 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

      The foot traffic out of Portomarin this morning was pretty crazy. We were expecting way more Pilgrims but it was still shocking to what we are accustomed to. The new Pilgrims on the trail stand out with their shiny new shoes and their fancy hiking clothes. We are somewhat envious of the newness of their Camino spirit, and their outerwear, but then we watch them struggle with the hills and tend to their new blisters and realize how thankful we are to be past that stage. Don’t get me wrong, we still ache all over at the end of the day and live on ibuprofen, but we are not shocked by that reality anymore.

      With 3 walking days left, it is easy to get in your head about finishing. The realization that 1 misstep could take you out of the game consumes my thoughts and at times I find myself almost marching at a slow steady pace in order to make sure each foot placement lands without injury. Thank goodness there is always so much to see in order to refocus your mind.

      It was another beautiful day in Galicia Spain. Perfect overcast skies for hiking, beautiful flowers to look at, lots of cows and great trails. How will we ever say good-bye to all this?

      Buen Camino ❤️🇪🇸
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    • Day 39

      Palas de Rei and Boente

      October 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

      October 8-9

      Yesterday was a hard day. Physically, because we did 16 miles and mentally, because our bodies are tired and want to be done. Plus, there are way more people on the Camino because many people start at the 100k mark and also because some of the other Caminos connect here.

      Our quiet mornings are now pretty busy with newcomers who have fresh legs who speed past us at times. We have had to adjust a bit.

      So yesterday we ended in Palas de Rei tired and a tad bit grumpy - actually, quite grumpy 😂. But, a good rest and an early start this morning turned into a great day! Nika joined us after our first stop and walked with us all the way to Boente. The miles fly by when you can share them with someone. She, too, had a hard time the day before and called us her “Camino Angels” for walking with her and brightening the mood. 💕 She’s ahead of us now, but we hope to see her on the 13th in Santiago.

      Don and Maryann are a bit behind us, but they will get to Santiago on the 12th like us. 🙂

      Special Moment of the Day:

      There is a group doing the Camino called J’s Crew. The “J” stands for Jen Schuringa. Jen suffered a debilitating traumatic brain injury in a car crash 10 years ago and she is doing the Camino in her wheelchair with the help of her crew of 15 friends and family. We talked to her dad today when we noticed he was walking very slow and limping. He broke his toe, but he’s not quitting - he felt if Jen can do it in her wheelchair with her Crew then he can do it with a broken toe. ❤️ Jen and her Crew are spreading the message that not even a traumatic brain injury can permanently rob you of community, purpose, and joy. You can read more about Jen at Jenschuringa.com

      Tomorrow, we walk to Salceda. 29.28 miles to go.
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    • Day 12

      Video: portomarin a palais de rai

      June 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Today’s video. Some sun. Some rain. Then some sun again. Many peregrinos. A parade of ~60 SEATs. (Like an old fashioned beetle, but with an even smaller air cooled engine.) An albergue run by CRU volunteers that provided shelter, snacks, drinks and old spanish farmhouse ambience…started by an american in 1990 who raised funds to buy the house. 25 km.Read more

    • Day 40 -Portomarin to Palas de Rei -26km

      October 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      I got the last bed at the albergue at the first one that I stopped at after a long hot day again. I was awake around 6am, but it was too early to get out of bed. I decided I might as well do my morning ritual (brush teeth, take medicine, fix hair etc.) so that when it was late enough, I could just get up and go. It really is a guessing game. I want to start early enough so to finish early before the sun is too hot, but then I don’t want to go too early and miss the scenery.

      I decided I would leave the hostal and go get some breakfast before I leave. I got a chocolate croissant that I ate right away but got a sandwich to go. Peggy arrived at the cafe after a large tour group of Germans so had to wait a bit for her food. I think we ended up leaving around 7:30am. We walked together for about 2/3rds of the day. I ran into Matt (guy from LA) so I walked with him until the end. It is kind of funny now. I really don’t get a chance to walk alone too much now, but I don’t mind. There are so many people on the trail, you might as well walk with someone and talk, because that is what most are doing.

      It was a long 26kms today. I was trying to get a bed before reaching here, but I knew the chances were slim, most of those in the small towns were full. I didn’t mind, as tomorrow will be a shorter day.

      I am sitting waiting for my laundry to be done. I didn’t do any washing the last couple days so there would be no hiking tomorrow if I didn’t do it. I am looking forward to not having to do the hand washing laundry soon.

      Ok, I am keeping this short. The scenery today was nothing spectacular, in fact, mostly boring, so not many photos and no video. Let’s hope tomorrow is nicer. I don’t have to leave until 8am so that will be nice.

      TTYL

      Throwback to 2009 from Julie’s Journal

      Well, saying I am in a crappy mood now about sums it up. I was fine until dinner but that was the straw that broke the camel’s back. I AM SO SICK OF GERMAN!!!!!!!!!!

      We started out in fog again today. The ground was wet so I decided to wear my poncho to start off. It soon came off when I realized there was no rain coming and I was getting hot. We hiked to Portomorin where we stopped for coffee and groceries. Seeing the old ruins in the river was kind of neat. We stopped and had lunch in Gonzar and then continued to Ligonde. It is here where things started to go down.

      The albergue in Ligonde was nice but there was nobody there and no one working there. Joerg really wanted to be with people as we were alone yesterday. I really wanted to be alone but I could tell he wanted to see people so I agreed to go one 1 km more. Well, he got his wish. We are jammed in a room with 18 beds, barely room to put bags. The showers are 2 together so you have to share the space.

      The funny thing is, I didn’t mind the room (I have had worse), but I wanted some time alone so Joerg went for a beer and I went for a walk (after my shower). I kind of felt bad leaving him alone (though he was with a couple Germans) so I eventually came back to sit with him. Well, they continued to speak German so I buried my head in my guide book. When I even asked the woman a question in English (Did she like travelling alone), she answered “yes” and then proceeded to explain in German why. Holy Crap … and I was the one who asked her the question. To top it off, she spoke perfectly good English.

      Well, it was time for dinner and they joined us so it was another hour of pure German and me staring out to space. I couldn’t take it anymore, I just had to leave when I finished my dessert. I went for a little walk, then just decided to go to bed early. So here I am at 7:30pm writing in my journal.

      Joerg I know feels bad, but in some ways I think he should. The very least he could do is try to translate some of it for me so I don’t sit there like an idiot. Next time ... I am not going to let myself get into that … when the Germans arrive I am just going to leave.

      (Excerpt from the next day in the Journal)

      Well, the evening yesterday ended very nicely. Joerg came to bed all nice and drunk so I took advantage of him just like I warned him earlier. He was asking if he was the problem and I said no and we would talk about it tomorrow. And we did talk about it. I explained that sometimes I would like to be alone, simply for the reason to be alone and nothing to do with him. I also talked about the translation thing and he apologized. He usually does do a good job but there was none at dinner.
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    • Day 12

      Portomarin to Palas de Rei

      June 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      The trail today seemed crowded when we started. I have a feeling there will be more and more pilgrims the closer we get to Santiago. Ollie said with disgust “ugh, there are so many sinners around here!” By the time we got past a humongous group of Spanish teenagers we were feeling less like we were in a shopping mall. I ran into the Boston girls and we were glad we all made it after that rough bus ride ride to Sarria.

      We miss our friends from the beginning. It’s harder to make friends on the trail now because there are more people and more places to stay. In Orisson to Roncessvalles there were only one place each so everyone knew the same people. Now we are all spread out and we don’t all eat together at night. I’m so glad we started in St Jean to get that experience. The trip to Sarria was annoying but I don’t regret the decision to start there.

      The way had good temps today. We enjoyed a steady stride and stopped twice -once for coffee and and an amazing egg casserole and once for a sandwich which we all shared. We never even ate our lunch but no one seemed hungry. We made it to our apartment by 3:15. Not bad. It was our longest day yet but tomorrow will be even longer.

      To break up the monotony the Way found ways to entertain us today. Once we stumbled into a cute little centuries old barn turned missionary center. They gave out free coffee and cookies and lemonade. It was bought years ago by an American and run by volunteers from all over the world who want to spread the Gospel. It was the perfect cozy respite out of a drizzle of rain. Then we were greeted on the road by a crazy parade of 60 little cars all in different colors in a parade honking and waving and playing La Cucaracha in their horn. Many had a wicker picnic basket strapped to the roof and some also had a bottle of wine up there too. They were all happy to see the pilgrims and enjoyed the attention we gave them as they drove past.

      It did start to downpour at about 6km to go. But it stopped soon after and I was mostly dry by the time we walked into town.

      One sad thing did happen today. Ollie lost his pilgrim’s passport. I started a new one for him with a postcard on the trail but we aren’t sure what it means for his compestella and it was a cool souvenir and proof of a cool accomplishment. I posted that it was lost on the Americans on the Camino Facebook page. And one lady reminded him that the Camino is really in your heart, not on paper. Ollie says he’s fine with it but as his mom I feel bad for him. Who knows? Maybe the Way will provide. We know that penance and a piece of paper does not grant forgiveness and that only comes through the grace of God. But you know… it’s still fun. We did get him a Spanish credential at the church in Palas de Rei. Now his is different which makes it special. He is behind in stamps but he can still collect the stamps along the way. (You have to have at least 100km worth of stamps by Santiago.

      Speaking of collecting stamps. It’s like an ancient game of Pokemon Go. It is fun to get the cool ones. I have one with a guy rocking on his guitar. That one is my favorite.
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    • Day 29

      Palas de Rei

      August 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

      While Palas has some industry to its name, the majority of its current wealth stems from pilgrims. There's very little more to say, it's a thoroughly boring, pilgrim conveyor belt town.

      The probably best thing about this town is Zendoira, an albergue I have stayed in a few times in years past and did again this year.

      Oh and meeting the Dutch nurse from Navarra again, together with a host of cool peregrinas from Vancouver, Australia, Iceland(!!!!!!!!!!), and Germany over dinner.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Palas de Rey, Palas del Rey, Palas de rei, 27200

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