Spain
Plaza San Marcelo

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    • Day 25

      Day 26. Leon

      May 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      This is the day that Cathy and I reconnect. After a 7:30 am breakfast, I set out with Francesco, who I had arranged to meet at 8:00 am and his friend, Luis Miguel. Francesco, the agronomist from Chile who I met on and off for the past week, linked up with Luis Miguel, from Palentia, a province in Spain. Francesco, who speaks very good English, translated Spanish to English for me, while Luis Miguel only spoke Spanish. We set off from Mansilla de Las Mulas together headed for Leon. I had expected Leon to be a city of 1.2 million people, but Luis Miguel clarified that it was actually a city of 120 000 people, smaller than Burgos.
      I’ve felt that while here in Spain a responsibility to act as an ambassador for Yellowknife. Even in Canada, when I mention that I’m from Yellowknife, many people immediately have visions of cold weather, but many are attracted to its openness and adventure. My sense was that Francesco and Luis Miguel were intrigued with Yellowknife, eager to know more about it, and when we met a couple of fellow Canadians from Kelowna and Prince George, raving about Yellowknife, they were intrigued even further. Francesco had even done some research on Yellowknife. However, all the pride I felt about Yellowknife was abruptly squashed when we met Eduardo. a Spanish engineer who had worked on the Deb Cho bridge in Fort Providence, 14 years ago. His memories of working in the North were not endearing. He was there in the hips of winter: -35 degrees with strong winds, they were working “on the ugliest bridge I’ve ever worked on,” the wind chills were unbearable. Everything I had done to praise and promote Yellowknife in the past 7 days, evaporated in 3 minutes. Then, when I mentioned it was nice during summer months, he rebutted with horrifying stories about mosquitoes, followed by encounters with largest, fiercest horseflies known to man. Whe Eduardo was finished talking about his northern Canada experience both Francesco and Luis Miguel admitted that their desire to visit Yellowknife had waned and would likely be limited to Google.
      Today’s 22 km walk brought us into Leon mostly following a path that ran parallel to a busy highway. Cathy arrived at the bus station at 6:45 on and it feels great to be back together. Tonight, Francesco, Luis Miguel, Cathy and I went out for dinner together. Francesco and Luis Miguel continue on. As we came out of the restaurant at 10:15 the city was coming to life, streets filled with people during the middle of the week. Tomorrow, we will spend the day in Leon exploring the many treasures this city has to offer.
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    • Day 22

      Respite in Leon

      October 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      So, we made it to Leon today! It feels like just in time, limping to our air BnB, where we will spend today AND tomorrow before heading back into the fray on Thursday. I think I took exactly one photo as I walked today, of a distance marker showing our great progress. Only 329.5 kilometers left, it proclaims, and that was before we walked another maybe 25 Km today. We started with 800 ahead of us, so!
      The walk into Leon, like maybe any city, was not especially scenic, so not much to share, visually.
      We were happy to meet up with a fellow from Germany we hadn’t seen for days; this is such a fun part of this experience, connections that braid in and out as we all make different choices about how far to walk on any given day, while all still adhering to the same route. We greet one another as old friends!
      The air BnB I found has exceeded our expectations, as in addition to the giant tub with jets it ALSO has a small sauna. This apartment may save my life…
      Anyway, I know it’s absurd to be saying this but wow, this is an undertaking, and that’s not just the chest cold talking. I wish I had a clearer sense of what it all means at this point, but having jumped into this deep, fast-moving river, all I can really do is keep letting it carry me along. Starting again on Thursday.
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    • Day 25

      Stop in Leon to visit with friends

      October 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

      In between our volunteer time in Santiago, and starting our own Camino, we had the tremendous joy of spending a day in Leon with our Camino Friends, Larry and Carolyn Hatch, and also got to meet their sister-in-law, Juliana, who lives in Newport, Oregon! We had a delightful visit with them. Unfortunately, I have come down once again with a case of bronchitis, and I had to spend the first evening in Leon waiting to see a doctor in urgent care. I was so happy to get seen there and to get medicine so that I can stop coughing! They examined me and took x-rays (lungs are good!) and gave me a breathing treatment and prescribed the exact medicines I needed and all for $240! Sometimes I’m tempted to just stay in Spain!Read more

    • Day 28 - León - Rest Day

      September 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Well, the planning has started. I started to put together a tentative plan of where I will stay and reserve a few beds and it is really hard to believe that I have just over 300kms and only 2 weeks left. If I go according to my schedule (and it could easily change), then I would arrive in Santiago on October 12th. That would be perfect timing for me. I would spend a few days there, go to Finistere for a day and then make my way to Germany in time for Bärbel’s birthday.

      So it was wonderful last night. I arrived in Leon and the albergue around 5:15pm. I showered, changed and was ready to go out the door. I met Christina and Kangmi at the Cathedral. We toured inside the cathedral and then went for sangrias. Dinner in Spain doesn’t start until 8-8:30pm, so it was a long wait for food. It was worth it. We ordered a few dishes to share including a salad, cured meat platter and croquettes (my new favourite food!). These croquettes were filled with blue cheese.

      We finished dinner around 10:30 and we all headed in different directions for our beds. It was definitely worth missing the 18km and spending the 2 Euros for the bus to see them. Christina is off again this morning. Will still be a day ahead, but if I don’t catch up, I am sure I will see her in Santiago. I am making plans to try and see her in Denmark before I head home.

      Today I didn’t get out of bed until 10:00am, and even then, I sat around in my sleep clothes until 11 and finally said it was time to go outside. I did a little shopping but didn’t really find what I was looking for but it wasn’t anything urgent.

      I spoke with Maximilian today to have him help me with my cell phone. I have voicemail but wasn’t sure how to get into it as the instructions were in German. He helped me sort it out.

      Now I am just heading out again (stores open again at 5:30) to try and find some yoga pants or leggings so I have in case of cold evenings.

      TTYL

      Throwback to 2009 Julie’s Journal

      Ok, the last words I heard before sleep was Joerg looking into my eyes, smiling and saying “beautiful” Can there be anything better??
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    • Day 6

      Mongogo

      April 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Wir waren beim Mexikaner essen unt natürlich gab's Margaritas 😉. Alles hing mit alten Kino Plakaten zu, es lief Rock'n'Roll aus den 60ern und die Zepra/Leoparden Wände waren schon speziell 👌. Aber gut

    • Day 25

      22 Mansilla de las Mulas – León

      August 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

      Mansilla de las Mulas verabschiedete mich mit Maulbeerbäumen (… wenn das welche waren? Schaut mal auf das Foto, vielleicht kennt sich da jemand besser aus.) und Feigen, die den Weg raus aus der Stadt säumten. Es geht flach weiter, doch schon bald gibt es keine Bäume und damit auch kein Schatten mehr. Die Sonne meint es heute auch sehr gut.
      •••••
      Gestern Abend habe ich noch ein Video von Bruder Fritz gesehen. Er erzählt etwas über die Wirbelsäule und ihrer obersten Wirbel: den Atlas, der den Kopf trägt. In der griechischen Mythologie ist es auch der Atlas, der die ganze Welt auf seinen Schultern trägt. Es geht um die Frage, wie ich diese Last frei bekomme und in die Leichte bringen kann.
      Da ist also auch ein Federkern. Den hatten wir vor ein paar Tagen schon einmal - da nur im
      Bauch beim Solarplexus - erinnert ihr euch? Es kostet Anstrengung den gespannt zu halten. Würde ich ihn entlasten und mich in meine wahre Größe hinein entspannen können, würde es leichter.
      So ist es auch mit meinem Nacken. Der Rucksack mit seinen bestimmt 10 kg Gewicht zieht ganz schön. Ich trage ihn wie Atlas die Welt. Ich beuge mich ein bisschen vor und ziehe die Schultern hoch. Ich probiere mal, mich gerade aufzurichten und meine innere Haltung zu verändern. Eigentlich nicht zu verändern, weil es ändert sich äußerlich nichts. Es ist nur wie Bewusstsein dort hinschicken und dann löst sich etwas. Kennt ihr das?
      Ich kann es nur in Zusammenhang mit dem Lächeln beschreiben - dem Engelslächeln, das die kleinen Kinder noch haben - um genau zu sein. Da gibt es im Gesicht den Trigeminus-Nerv, den Bruder des Vagus. Der ist dreigeteilt - wie der Name schon sagt. Die drei Äste gehen von der Schläfe in die Augenpartie, die Oberlippe und zum Kinn. Wenn ich da Bewusstsein reinschicke, löst sich etwas - ohne dass äußerlich etwas geschieht - aber der vorher vielleicht stumpfe Blick beginnt zu strahlen und dieses offene verbindende Lächeln blüht auf.
      Das ist doch ein schönes Bild. Heute will ich etwas mit den Schultern lächeln - und es wird leichter. Aber dieses Lächeln schläft immer gerne wieder ein. Da habe ich noch zu üben.
      •••••
      Dann komme ich nach León. Als ich über einen Hügel komme - ja, die gibt es hier wieder - sehe ich die Stadt vor mir. Es dauert noch über eine Stunde bis ich die Kathedrale erreiche. Die Straßen ziehen sich endlos. León ist die letzte größere Stadt am Weg.
      León - die Löwenstadt - wie es einige in Europa gibt: Leuven in Holland, Leonberg bei Stuttgart, Lyon natürlich und auch Belfort in der Burgundischen Pforte, wegen des steinernen Löwen von Bartholdi, der auch die Freiheitsstatue in New York enrworfen hat.
      Wenn nun all diese Löwenstädte unter dem Siegel ihres Sternbildes zusammenhängen - so wie die Notre-Dame-Kathedrale in Frankreich das Sternbild der Jungfrau auf die Landkarte projizieren?
      Oder sind die Städte am Jakobsweg, dem Sternenweg - er folgt ja der Milchstraße - auch aufgereiht wie der Tierkreis? León wäre der Löwe - Santiago vielleicht der Weihnachts-Steinbock. Zum Meer hin bei Finisterre folgt der Wassermann. Und auf der andern Seite: Pamplona mit dem Stier.
      Vielleicht oder vielleicht auch nicht. Wer weiß.
      •••••
      León ist eine laute Stadt. Die Preise sind doppelt so hoch, wie in den anderen Städten. Einzig die Kathedrale zieht mich an. Sie hat hohe lichtdurchflutete Gewölbe und lässt Raum. Die Seele breitet Schwingen aus.
      •••••
      Und hier gibt es veganes Essen!
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    • Day 18

      Pausentag in León

      March 8 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

      Der Pausentag in León war klasse!
      Auch wenn mich meine innere Uhr um 5:45 Uhr weckte, war ich froh, noch liegenbleiben zu können. :D
      Danach ging es in die Stadt zur nächsten Herberge, Rucksack abstellen und die Kathedrale Leóns bestaunen.
      Ich glaube, das war das erste Mal, dass mich ein kirchliches Bauwerk so sehr fasziniert hat.
      Umwerfend schön, in ihrer Schlichtheit, in ihrer beeindruckenden Geschichte und in ihren vielen Details. Die hohen Decken und die insgesamt über 1800 qm Glasfenster wirken wie eine Treppe in den Himmel…

      Und dann noch nen Dosenbier mit Mike - prost!
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    • Mansilla de las Mulas to León

      October 8, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      Finally today we saw the last of the Meseta walking from Mansilla to León and already the landscape is becoming more featured and interesting and mostly corn fields replacing the wheat.

      We crossed the Esla River (there must be a connection) leaving Mansilla and walked under light cloud on a wide gravel path for about 12km. Our company for most of the time were Jens and Kristin a younger retired couple from Denmark. Our Danish is non-existent but their English was excellent and they were good company for a couple of hours. They have walked and cycled all over Europe.

      We had anticipated not walking all the way in to León as the last 6km is on hardtop concrete and bitumen through industrial areas. So we completed the day’s relocation with a very informative taxi driver who told us about a festival in León over the weekend.

      We checked in to our digs, cleaned up and walked through lively Saturday afternoon streets of the old city towards León Cathedral. No sign of the locals doing siesta with every bar, cafe and restaurant occupied. León’s cathedral Santa María de Regla, is an extraordinarily beautiful building outside and in.

      We came out from early evening Mass at the Basilica of San Isidoro to find the festival in full swing. The streets are thronging with families and all food and drink establishments are open with extra outside seating and hundreds of stalls are selling everything imaginable.

      But time for bed. We walk tomorrow.
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    • Day 22

      Leon 2

      June 8, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

      Another total cool eclectic collection of these old and new streets but I'm very much close to the old town so you get those little tiny whining streets just like in Burgos and Barcelona

      I also came upon...
      Oh Laurie-o, oh Laurie-o
      wherefore art thou Laurie? O?
      There is a place for Thou ..evermore...😄🤣

      And the buildings and part of the original old Roman Street
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    • Day 35

      Santa Maria,Gaudi et les autres à Leon

      May 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      Cathédrale Santa Maria de type gothique élaboré à la fin du moyen âge, bâti sur les ruines de l'église romane, orienté à l'est pour que la lumière du soleil puisse pénétrer par les vitraux et éclairer la lumière
      que Jesus par sa venue, par la suite l'orientation du soleil provoque une luminosité moindre et se projette sur les apôtres, le côté sombre est dirigé vers les prophètes de l'ancien testament , avant la venue du Christ, tout a été
      planifier dans la construction pour souligner la lumière que fut le fils de Dieu lors de sa venue selon la bible. Une architecture qui aura pris 50 ans à construire.

      Casa Botines ( musée sur Gaudi )
      Fermé le mardi nous étions donc pas dû pour voir ses réalisations à l'extérieur de Barcelone

      Ce soir imagination pour trouver des tapas à proximité.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Plaza San Marcelo

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