Spain
Portas

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    • The altered route to Caldas de Reis

      September 27 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

      Day 11. I had planned to be heading on the Spiritual Variant today, but due to the rain and mud, I decided I'd better stick to the safer, more traveled, and direct route. The sun is just breaking over the horizon as we head over the bridge and begin our way out of Pontevedra. It's a bit of a trek through town on a city street with the smell of diesel fumes from commuters passing by.

      But finally, we move on to the beautiful country roads and trails. We pass by many small fields of corn and several vineyards. There are pretty streams and lots of trees, and everything is damp and dripping from the rains of last night. But today is supposed to be clear all day but luckily I had rain gear at hand because we encountered drizzle several times along the way.

      We passed by many more pilgrims today now that we've joined with the Central route and are in the final 100km. I have a chance to chat with several and hear of lots of injuries and challenges overcome, and get home states info from all the Americans. One couple of women a bit older than us are walking very very slowly due to hip and vision issues, and they plan to spend 2 days in this next town and have a spa day to recover.

      Meanwhile, in our group Kiki and I are still doing relatively well. I unfortunately changed shoes to my Merrells to see if the ankle support would help my back, but I am regretting the choice as they do not work as well on the pavement. John and Kelly are struggling with lots of foot pain, but they are still carrying their full packs. Joe and Debbie are struggling with a virus and decided to take a break and travel by bus today.

      We arrive in Caldas de Reis at a bridge over a pretty river and see local fishermen along the edge. 4 of us share a nice lunch (cockles were delicately flavored, and the complimentary cake was fantastic) next to the river under umbrellas mostly protecting us from rain. There's a free hot spring a
      foot soaking spot in town that my feet enjoy. I'm alone in a 2 bedroom apartment for the night and really happy to have a washer dryer -- clean socks and underwear for the rest of the trip!

      Today's journey 21km (13 miles) plus side wanderings of about 3km. Completed 230 of 274 planned, plus sidetrips of 34km.
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    • Day 15

      Two days in one...

      May 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      We left A Portela albergue skipping 🤣 - well, not quite, cos we didn't have the energy after the snorefest we'd endured the previous evening! But it was brilliant to be on our way knowing we were going to enjoy a shorter day's walk; it was a good feeling 😊. It was another lovely walk through small hamlets and we were happy to fall into this garage/café! We remembered it from our last Portuguese camino (we'd walked the central, inland route in 2019) so it was great to see it was still up and running. We only wanted a drink, but the array of food on offer was fantastic. Not sure I'd want squid empanada for brekkie, but there it was! The room was fashioned from someone's garage, as the 'front door' was the up and over type garage door 😅. On the way, we saw a most unusual selection of scarecrows, this pink frog being one of them. I'm not sure how effective he was because nothing seemed to have been sown!
      We reached Caldas de Reis at lunchtime thinking we'd find the bus stop that'd take us to Padron. Not as easy as it sounds as there are no stops similar to ours in the UK, just BUS written in yellow on the road, and it being Sunday parking regulations seemed to be being ignored! The waitress in the café we ate lunch in was really helpful, though, and kept the tapas coming whilst we waited for our (very Spanish) pizzas.
      The bus was only 10 minutes late so we didn't have too long a panic 🙄 and it dropped us off in Padron just 30 minutes later. Thank goodness OurSteve can read maps, because we'd have headed off in the opposite direction 😀, but we soon found our apartment (so much better than a second night in an albergue - we've decided we're just too old to be doing that every night!) which was massive and meant we could have a room each.
      After settling in and showering, we took a short evening stroll around Padron, which isn't exactly massive, and found a small café where we could sit outside and eat. It was then time for bed but I was very surprised to find it wasn't even 8.30pm when I tucked myself in🤭😅. It was a good, long night's sleep though and we were very relaxed when we got up. Only about 12kms today 👌.
      Our walk was a mix of road and wooded areas and we spotted lots of 'doer-uppers' - buildings that would make great homes or albergues. We passed through a 'cat village' where someone was obviously feeding the strays, and a short detour took us to our second breakfast (the first being a bit paltry🙄). OurJan decided to rock her JackieO impersonation with her big glasses and my scarf 🤣.
      We arrived at our albergue (the same one we'd stayed in 4 years ago, and the one I wasn't supposed to book this time round 😱🤣) in time for yet more pizza and yet more beer! We spent the afternoon relaxing in the garden, washing our clothes, showering, sorting our aching feet out, and catching up on home news. Tortilla and salad (and red wine) for supper and another early night for an early start tomorrow. It's our last day of walking and we have just 13.5kms to go before we reach the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. Our hope is we get there in time for the 1200 Pilgrim's Mass, when they may well be swinging the huge thurible, the Botafumeiro, because it's the Apparition of the Apostle-Clavijo. So, fingers crossed for that! If it happens, you'll find out tomorrow🤣.
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    • Day 13

      27.783 und keinen Schritt mehr

      September 11 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Wir haben heute vor Sonnenaufgang unsere Stadtwohnung in Pontevedra verlassen und uns wieder in die Pilgerschlange eingereiht.
      Bis zu unserer Herberge in Tivo ist nichts Aufregendes passiert, der Weg ging durch Eukalyptus-Wälder, kleine Ortschaften, an Feldern und Wiesen vorbei.
      Warum "keinen Schritt mehr", sieht man auf dem letzten Bild.
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    • Day 12

      11. Etappe - nach Caldas de Reis

      November 29, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Nach dem Tag gestern war es heute einfach grossartig!
      Blauer Himmel, Sonnenschein, T-Shirt und Sonnenbrille... was will man mehr?
      So waren die 21km schnell geschafft. Unser Ziel kommt immer näher... Morgen machen wir nochmals eine Pause und dann sind es noch zwei Etappen bis nach Santiago 😊Read more

    • Day 14

      From Pontevedra to Santiago de Compostel

      June 8 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      As I got more inland the change of scenery was noticeably. Beautiful countryside.
      I started seeing more animals (besides the many cats I've seen throughout the journey) and farms. Lots of grapes growing.
      One particular horse wanted to come along with me.
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    • Day 15–16

      Pontevedra to Tivo

      September 9 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

      I think I caught the flu. Hahaha. Kept walking with zero appetite and forcing myself to eat. It was so beautiful though. And the hostel I stayed in was very cute with a little pool and a good washer and dryer.Read more

    • Dag 12: Caldas de Rei

      September 22 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Die roete was ons genadig en het gesorg vir ‘n meestal plat, koel, mooi stapdag deur plase en woude. Ons moes wel gewoond raak aan die singende speke van die talle fietsryers op die roete. Dis beslis besiger noudat ons Santiago nader, want dis verpligtend om die laaste 100 km na Santiago te stap om jou Compostela aan die einde te ontvang. Oral klink die klik-klak van stapstokke en verskillende tale op. Caldas de Rei is pragtig met warmwaterbronne vir die seer spiere. Môre is ons tweede laaste dag met ‘n 19 km na Padron. Voel of ons al maande weg is van die huis en tyd wonderlik stilstaan.Read more

    • Day 14

      Somos duros.

      May 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      For some reason we are going in a pace to Santiago that is hard to keep up for most people. Even with my sprained and thick ankle I got two days ago we don't seem to have any problems crossing the hills here as we pass dozens of other pellegrinos every day.
      What is called a full day stage is for us a morning hike and then we still have the whole afternoon for other things. So today we had a two hour lunch and then we decided to walk another 10k after finishing the normal stage. Just like yesterday when we did two complete stages. So I think we can easily say: Somos duros! 💪💪
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    • Day 11

      Tag 11 Pontevedra - Briallos

      August 16, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Hallo ihr Lieben,

      Ausgeruht nach dem Turnhallenerlebnis ging es heute morgen mit einem leckeren Frühstück bestehend aus Café con Late und Croissant de Chocolat in eine neue Runde.
      Erster Gedanke: es ist verdammt viel los.
      Seid Tui läuft man kaum noch alleine. Entweder vor oder hinter einem sind Pilger bzw. schlimmer Pilgergruppen in Sichtweite. Definitiv ein Nachteil in dieser Jahreszeit.
      Ich mache ständig Pausen, um tratschende Gruppen an mir vorbei ziehen zu lassen, oder überholte chantende Amis mit klappernden Walking Sticks die das Ave Maria in Dauerschleife vor sich hin murmeln.
      Nicht so toll.
      Landschaftlich dafür sehr schön. Der Weg schlängelt sich abwechslungsreich durch Wald, Dörfer, Maisfelder und Weinreben.
      Aufgrund der Massen war mein Plan vor der größeren Stadt Caldas de Reis eine Herberge zu nehmen und entschied mich für eine abgelegene kleine, die wohl von allen übergangen wird, weil sie bis Caldas laufen. Und genau so war es. In der Mittags Hitze mit schmerzenden Achillisversen kamen Juliane und ich dort an und konnten ohne anstehen bis zum schlafsaal laufen. Ein Traum. Die kleine Herberge hat 27 Plätze und alles war noch frei! Wir haben unseren erfolgreichen, antizyklischen Plan bei Spaghetti Bolognese im kleinen Bistro neben an gefeiert :)
      Lustiger weise trifft man ja immer wieder die selben und so sind auch heute wieder altbekannte Pilgerfreunde in der Herberge, aber es verirren sich nur wenige hier her, es sind sogar noch einige Betten frei!

      Fazit des Tages:
      Ein bisschen Strategie schadet nie!
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    • Day 12

      Etappe 9, Arcade -Caldas de Reis 1

      September 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      35 km liegen vor mir bei erneut leichtem Nieselregen.
      Unsere Bar öffnet in einigen Minuten und ein kleines Frühstück wird noch eingenommen.
      Der Weg führt heute als erstes nach Pontevedra. Von der Stadt wird behauptet, daß sie Santiago de Compostela sehr ähneln soll.
      Konnte sie leider nur im Regen kurz anschauen. Meine beiden deutschen Wegbegleiterinnen sind noch in der Stadt geblieben, während ich schon weiter gepilgert bin.
      Gegen Mittag kam die Sonne.
      Bin durch viele Laubengänge mit Weinreben gelaufen. Die Versuchung war groß!
      Ebenfalls habe ich viele Waldgebiete mit Eukalyptusbäumen durchquert. Die heutige Etappe hat mich sehr an meinen Weg nach Finesterre erinnert, nur dort hat der Wein gefehlt.
      Es werden immer mehr Pilger, empfinde es noch schlimmer als 2022 ab Saria. Der Kampf um freie Betten wird über Schnelligkeit und Telefon ☎️ geführt. Habe am Wegesrand eine Werbung eines Hostels gelesen. Hat mir gefallen. Anruf genügte - hatte ein Bett.
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