Porto de Oia

Between the clouds and the cold pouring rain this morning and the hour we lost when we entered Spain from Portugal yesterday, it was really dark when we woke up and tried to get going . I opened our room window over my bed and watched the rain a bit and the waves breaking on the shore before finally lacing up my hiking boots. Our hosts offered to cook breakfast for us and so we sat and chatted a bit with other pilgrims we’d met who had traveled from England and a bike rider from Russia. When I mentioned to our host that we had been so in awe of the old Monastery’s exterior yet disappointed to not get in yesterday, she told us not to worry, she had the key! So we brightened at that and followed her down the road until she let us in. The church was stately but inside was damp and grey and somber- you could almost imagine the ancient monks opening the church on early dark mornings like this- a few prayers, we said goodbye to Oia and we were on our way in the rain.
I’ve been thinking a lot about our luck with the weather while on our pilgrimage- such storms and wind to add to our exertions while we walk! I had imagined a couple of autumn weeks in Portugal and Spain with warm sun on our shoulders but that hasn’t happened for us and now (I can’t believe I’m saying this!) it just feels right to keep tramping along in the mud. Adversity can be a motivation too!
Today we walked a lot of rocky paths alternating with sandy stretches along the beach and even some roadsides. (16 miles!) We passed a lot of horses and cows and goats in pastures and went through more forest land too. It’s interesting to see the farms so close to the beaches. Beautiful green pastureland stretches to rocks to sand and sea- it’s beautiful and maybe why the animals seem so calm. Interesting also to see the farm and pasture delineations done with rocks walls instead of fences.
There were only a few small villages today on our walk- we did happen upon a pilgrims café in time for a lunch of lentil soup- delicious! And I also had a Coke Zero Sugar which keeps me going since I don’t drink coffee- Rick gets some coffee and refuses to eat until evening which I could never do! (Especially when there are pastries around). We made our way into Baiona in the early afternoon with some sun!! Such good timing because we were able to see and appreciate this harbor town. Legend says that Columbus sailed from here and then sent news of his discovery of America to be delivered back here. There is a replica of the Pinta in the harbor- it’s small! We also explored around town and were again amazed by some churches here. There’s a huge Baroque chapel to Saint Liberata- it’s erection began in 1695 and was totally funded by locals. The church of Santa Maria which is also 15th century is a Romanesque style and reminiscent of the Monastery in Oia and it has a large rose window and fabulous carved statues. It’s easy to be reverent in these holy spaces. We saw another small chapel to Our Lady Miseriacordia- there were little children visiting inside and I missed my grandbabies today. I miss Mark and my kids and my friends but I’m determined to continue until, God willing, we reach Santiago. This brings to my mind the Pilgrims ancient greeting, « Ultreia et Suseia » which supposedly is a loose translation from Latin to mean, « beyond and higher » or Let’s keep going! We had fresh fish for dinner and some fresh octopus with hot sauce that I’m not sure was cooked- we found the only restaurant open in town because restaurants here are closed on Mondays!! It’s always something!! Vigo is our destination tomorrow!Read more