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    • Spacy on TourIberische Halbinsel mit Spacy
      3
      Day 18

      Los Richtung Süden!

      October 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

      Der Wetterbericht verspricht für den Nordwesten der Iberischen Halbinsel eine sehr durchzogene Woche mit viel Regen. Okay!🤔 Dann brechen wir halt früher Richtung Süden auf, wollen eine Duftnote des portugiesischen Nationalparks Penedes-Gêres mitnehmen und danach etwas nördlich von Lissabon eine ehemalige Arbeitskollegin von Andreas besuchen.

      Mehr oder weniger regnet es die ganze Fahrt von Oviedo nach Bande, in der Nähe der spanisch-portugiesischen Grenze (gute 400 km), durch dicht besiedeltes Küstengebiet und über liebliche Hügellandschaften. Mit Hunger und Zufall fahren wir für das Zmittag um 13.30 Uhr beim Restaurant Galicia in Baamonde zu. Von aussen eine unscheinbare Fassade, innen mit musealem Charakter. Die Spezialität des Hauses ist ein Kaffee aus dem "pot de madre" mit einem Traubenschnaps (siehe Foto) serviert! Schmeckt wunderbar!😊

      Im Dorf steht die Iglesia de Santiago de Baamonde mit Ursprung aus dem 9. Jh. Und gleich daneben ein eindrücklicher 800-jähriger Kastanienbaum. Wieviel Freud und Leid wurde wohl unter dieser Krone schon geteilt?

      Am späteren Nachmittag erreichen wir den Stausee "Encoro des Conchas". Es herrscht reger Betrieb bei den "Caldas Romanas de Bande", einer antiken römischen Therme in freier Natur. Badekleider an und rein in die heissen Hotsprings (38 - 46°C.). Im kleinen Bach abkühlen und wieder rein in die antike Badewanne. Einfach genial! Die Nacht verbringen wir hier mit anderen Campern.      Read more

      See translation
    • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2022 , Torres and Geira
      1
      11211
      Day 20

      Lobios to Castro Laboreiro (21 km)

      September 27, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      Short in kilometers maybe, but the 800 m of elevation gain took me some time. It was a day full of surprises for me, because I really had no idea what to expect. Some friends wrote a day by day account when they walked about a year ago, but I only read their posts after I’ve done my walk. So it’s really one surprise after the next.

      I left around sunrise, and the first 10 or 11 km went from village to village on a mixture of roads and nice off-road trails, but then after a little place called A Pereira I emerged from one of those green tunnels (trees all around and moss-covered stone walls on both sides) and I was in a totally different landscape. I was on a big flat plain with rocky peaks on three sides. Amazing.

      Then back to walking by rivers, through some scrub forests, and then —surprise— a beautiful Roman bridge. It was there I took off my shoes, ate a cheese sandwich, and just wondered what this place was like when the Romans were here.

      The last 5K were a pretty steep ascent on a road in the sun. Guaranteed to wipe you out. But as always, a shower works a miracle. Around four, I decided to follow the path up to the castle. I’ve been to a lot of castles, I’ve climbed around a lot of castles, and this one was pretty much in ruins, but its position was one of the most spectacular I’ve ever seen. The views were pretty amazing. Built in the 10th century, it went back and forth between Spanish and Portuguese hands until finally Portugal won the last battle.

      This little town has three hotels, and there are lots of groups of walkers and “ramblers.” I’ve talked to some British and French people, quite the international crowd. Tomorrow back to Spain!      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
      1
      11111212
      Day 8

      Day 44 - Requejo - 12.7 km

      November 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

      Weather: 2 - 14 degrees. Yesterday said rain - today maybe not.
      Clothes: short and long sleeve merino top, fleece and rain jacket, trekking pants.

      The walk.
      I left my hotel to a misty foggy morning- droplets of water that could perhaps be called rain only a couple of times.
      There have been a number of warnings that the Camino trail could be flooded in certain sections here during rainy seasons. However given it wasn’t actually raining when I left at 9 am I thought I would see how I felt when I got to the first turn off.
      Well it seemed fine so off I went along the river. And it was exquisite. There were a couple of water hurdles but someone had kindly made some small bridges and the only time I got my feet wet was when I thought the second bridge looked a little unsteady and I tried to walk through the meadow. Turns out it was a water meadow so with slightly wet feet I headed back to the bridge which turned out to be rock solid.
      Walking along the river was a such delight I didn’t at all mind the slightly wet feet.
      I also began to understand that this section might have been difficult and even frightening for someone else. - thinking of my German friend Peter, who has had 5 operations in 4 years.
      Again I was grateful for my early life in the country; camping, walking through the bush and enjoying the challenges this can bring.
      After the first river section I followed the arrows and walked along the road where I was partnered by a rainbow for the next hour or more. 🌈🌈🌈. How can I doubt that I am loved and protected?
      I missed the next river section as the causeway just off the road was flooded and a man came to shout me away - he was really looking for his cow but he also seemed to indicate that I should stay on the road
      The next choice was to either continue along the road or try the longer ‘scenic’ route. I took the scenic route and as it initially went up hill, seemed safe from flooding.
      I was so happy I did that. It was a fairy land of tracks and trails and trees and leaves and light and sparkling streams and small meadows and cows and bliss -perhaps the most beautiful section since Sevilla. ❤️❤️❤️. One guide said it was picturesque- an understatement.
      I arrived at Requejo at 12.30 pm - no time at all - stopped at the Bar for a refresh before I went to find my albergue.
      On the way there I met a young French man - he said his name was Rocket. He was travelling to Porto - hitchhiking and walking. It was comforting for us both to have a conversation- his English was great - and to wish each other well in our various adventures.
      After the usual albergue routine I headed for the local hotel/ restaurant to eat. Although the town seems deserted the restaurant was buzzing - with tables having second and even third seatings.
      So that’s it for today. Till tomorrow.

      Buen Camino

      Reflections on the mind …
      At various times in the night and early morning the mind fretted about rain and coffee. Will it rain and do they serve real coffee for breakfast in the hotel (there are no Bars nearby). Thank goodness through mindful practice I was able to turn away from these thoughts and have a good nights sleep.
      And guess what - no rain, just fog: and plenty of real coffee for breakfast. 😂🤣😂🤣😂
      Today I realised that the mind has been doing an awful lot of worrying over this Camino - as I have shared in previous posts - more so than on previous Caminos . Over and over again everything turns out OK.
      I also thought it might be that there is so much more fear energy in the world these days. From all the people wanting to walk a Camino but sharing on various forums how scared they are - to Peter yesterday taking about flood and snow as we head over the mountains.
      And here I am, the sun is shining, I am well fed, I have warm bed and clean clothes. And I am safe.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
      3
      2
      Day 9

      Day 45 - Lubián - 16.8 km

      November 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

      Weather: 0 - 11 and cloudy
      Clothes: The same

      The day started clear with yet another beautiful pink sunrise. Relaxed breakfast coffee and toast at the bar and then off I went.
      The first part of the walk today was along the road going up, up and more up. Today we get to the highest point of this Camino before a long downhill to Santiago.
      I read that the route has also been a bit disrupted by building the AVE ( high speed train route) but all in all it was fine. The sun was shining and even though there was a cold wind that needed some adjustment of headgear from time to time, I felt snug.
      Just as I was getting a bit tired of the road the route went left to the tracks and dirt roads of previous times. The route wound under the new overpasses and I crossed a wonderful river cascading over rocks. Then to my surprise I came to a white concrete roadway that took me to the highest point. I sat in the sun just before the top. I wanted to savour this stage because it felt like the end of the endless stage of the Camino. I am definitely coming into that last stage I spoke about in a previous post - before I know it I will be in Santiago. It now seems harder to stay in the day I am in - the mind keeps jumping ahead to the end.
      The monument, sitting on green grass flanked by Birch trees, was a short way down from the actual highest point. I spent quite some time there before the body/mind was ready to move on down the hill.
      Before long I came to the tiny village of Padornelo which never the less had a significant hotel and bar/restaurant. Warm fire, coffee and Jamon bocadilla, and I was ready for the last 8 km to Lubián.
      The last section was as beautiful as the first section and yesterday’s meandering track. While I am not yet in Galicia itself I am definitely in Galician country. I feel so at home here. If yesterday was a fairy path today was the dwarf path. Wonderful.
      More rivers, bridges, trees and tracks and I eventually got to Lubián. The albergue door was unlocked - as they all have been over the past few days and given it was 3.30 pm I went straight to get some food. I just scraped into the restaurant’s lunch time - ends at 4 pm. I couldn’t have waited till 8.30 pm and didn’t have the energy or brain power to buy food and cook. A lovely woman guided me to the Bar through the winding streets of this small village.
      Right now I am sitting in the Bar grabbing some Wifi.
      Then it’s back to the albergue to get ready for tomorrow.

      Buen Camino

      Reflection
      The monument at the pass at A Canda (1365 metres) was a powerful moment - an important moment - a place to stop and reflect. It has taken me 6 weeks to reach this point and in two weeks I will in Santiago.
      In my mind’s eye I could see Santiago ahead and after that the rest of my life - which at that moment seemed more terrifying and uncertain than walking the Camino forever.
      My mind very naturally reflected on the last 6 weeks and various Camino memories arose - the hard bits, the easy bits, the inspiring bits. In that moment I wanted to go back to Sevilla and do it all over again.
      This Camino feels like getting to know a stranger with all the ups and downs of that journey - only to discover that as you come to thoroughly know them, there is only love. And love. And love.
      My eyes keep getting wet and I am not sure why. Anticipation of the Camino goodbye or the love that the Camino elicits?

      Camino amigo talks about Galicia
      I had a buddy last night. A man from Madrid, Serge, who is riding his bike from Sevilla to Santiago in 15 days. That’s all the time he has. Phew! He wants to ride through Chile. The Camino is part of his preparation.
      Serge lived in the US for a year and is a flight attendant. We had a great chat. And he gave me the warmest farewell after coffee in the morning. I again saw that I am shy of goodbyes and letting people know how much they mean to me - something to let go.
      Serge’a father comes from Galicia and he told me a little about this district. It’s one of the poorest in Spain because it is so mountainous. Serge said his father left the village at age 14 to go to school and that in the 60’s people started to move to the cities. There are only two people living permanently in Serge’s father’s village. Many who have left villages have kept and renovated their traditional village homes and go there for the summer holidays. So the villages can be busy in summer but deserted in winter. This part of the Camino goes through tourist areas - hence the bigger hotels and Bars.

      PS. I am standing outside (catching some internet bars) as the sun sets and the moon rises. It’s clear and cold but so fresh and pleasant. I am a mountain person. Beautiful.      Read more

    • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2022 , Torres and Geira
      1
      Day 21

      Castro Laboreiro to Cortegada (30 km)

      September 28, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      When I saw that there were 1300 m of descent on today’s stage I have to admit I groaned. That’s so hard on the knees. But off I went.

      It had been raining over night, so there were “water amenities“ every time the camino took me off road to those narrow rocky paths surrounded by rock walls. Sometimes it was deep mud, and sometimes it was standing water. Finding the best way over was not always easy. Even without pools of water or mud, going down on slippery rocks made for a very slow going. In fact this was probably my longest walking day yet. I just had to take my time.

      When I got to the Spanish border, I emerged onto a totally deserted but paved road. Under normal circumstances I wouldn’t have been so thrilled, but to have a large chunk of descent on a road with no rocks and no mud to navigate was really great.

      The highlight of the day for me was walking through pine forests, especially when I was close to the Deva River,

      I wouldn’t say it was a five star day, but it was pleasant enough. The only real downer for me was that one of my hiking poles collapsed. I am getting some advice on how to fix it but I guess I’ll be fine with just one. People on the Camino forum are tremendously helpful, and are sending me YouTube videos of how to fix the problem. One Spanish friend suggested I take it to a car repair shop, on the theory that they will certainly have some thing to fix it with. Since the solution seems to lie with some strong adhesive, that does sound like a good suggestion, and I will probably try it tomorrow.

      I am in the town of Cortegada, which is probably the saddest town I’ve been in so far. Nothing going on, 80% of the houses seem to be falling down, but there is a beautifully restored balneario down on the river. I was surprised that it was built in 1937, as the Civil War was in full swing.

      Thankfully, Cortegada has the Casa de Conde, a small guesthouse that gives pilgrims a good price. No restaurants, but I can use their kitchen, so I am fine. Onward tomorrow!      Read more

    • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2022 , Torres and Geira
      11
      Day 22

      Cortegada - San Xes - Ribadavia (19 km)

      September 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      I woke up at about 6 am to a heavy rain. I decided to sleep a little more, but by 8:00, I had had breakfast and was putting on my rain gear. I kept repeating one of Joe’s favorite bits of advice — “A mal tiempo, buena cara.” Within about 10 minutes, the rain had turned into a little drizzle, and within 25 minutes it had stopped. No more rain except for a 20 minute downpour somewhere along the Minho River. Call me lucky.

      It was another walk with pleasant surprises. Wikiloc showed a steep descent down to the Minho, but it wasn’t steep at all. And, even with all the rain, the tracks were totally fine. No rocky paths turning into water channels. Once down at the river I had a really nice walk along the banks, and it lasted most of the way to Ribadavia, actually. A few petos de anima (alms box for the souls in purgatory), some pretty churches, and a lot of Minho River views.

      Ribadavia is well known for its preserved judería (Jewish quarter). But I had learned that there was also a pre-romanesque church, San Xes, just a few kilometers out of town. Since I got to the town early, I decided to walk out and visit the church before finding a place to stay. It wasn’t raining and I thought it made sense to take advantage. What a beautiful little church. Ninth century, some carvings on both sides of the door that look like the flight to Egypt (thanks AJ!!!), and a stone lattice window that was beautiful. I couldn’t get inside even after asking a couple of neighbors. But I was happy enough to sit outside and eat my snack and enjoy.

      I found a little Pension in the center of town, right in the plaza mayor actually. Turns out I was lucky to get the last room, which involves a three flight walk up.      Read more

    • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2022 , Torres and Geira
      1
      Day 22

      Afternoon in Ribadavia

      September 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Though my favorite Ribadavia attraction was San Xes, the 9 C church I saw on my way in, the rest of the day was fun too.

      First a good lunch — scallops and a goat cheese salad. Kind of a foodie place but it didn’t break the bank.

      Then a couple of hours wandering around. The judería (inhabited from 12C-16C) is nicely preserved. I assume the House of the Inquisition down the block had something to do with its demise, though. There are two Romanesque churches— both closed of course. The castle is only open in the morning, but it’s nice from the outside. Very fun time in the Plaza Mayor talking to one abuela whose 3 yo grandson was zooming around on a balance bike, and two dads helping their 10 yo daughters learn to roller skate. LOVE the plaza mayor in almost any Spanish place (except maybe Leon).

      One quick trip to a frutería— the first dried figs of the season arrived today so I got a few hundred grams. Batteries for my headlamp and chores are done.

      Early to bed for this peregrina.      Read more

    • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2022 , Torres and Geira
      Day 23

      Ribadavia to Feas (29 km)

      September 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

      There was fog till about noon! It made things kind of ethereal. Today was almost all off-road, filled with rivers, vineyards, forests, and a killer ascent at the end. My GPS stopped recording, so I am not totally sure about the ascent, but the person whose tracks I followed recorded 900 m up and 500 down. That’s a lot for these old bones. But I’m still so grateful that even though I am definitely slowing down, I can still enjoy every day and relish the sensation that I’ve really given it my all.

      So many of these villages are in the process of depopulation. Most have some really nice fixed up houses, but those houses do not seem to be inhabited. I’m assuming they are summer homes, homes that once belonged to the great grandparents and that no one wants to live in year round. Then there are the totally falling down houses, and then there are some in between where the year-round residents live. Even in these tiny hamlets, the bread truck comes, the frozen food guy comes, the produce guy comes. Yesterday I coincided for about two hours with the Repsol truck. He was bringing those gas canisters. His horn blaring as he came through, people put out their empty canisters and he made the exchange. He was on the same route as I was apparently, so I had a honking horn symphony to listen to through four or five villages.

      I’m in a very nice Casa Rural, O Forno do Curro. There’s an old stone Forno/oven that was the place where all the villagers came to bake their bread. The only establishment with food is about a km down the road. I came in this afternoon on my way to the Casa Rural, just to confirm I would be eating dinner here. At that time about 30 men were at different tables, all playing dominoes. The bar owner, a woman, told me that the men come to play dominoes after lunch, while the wives were cleaning up and doing housework. But that the women would be in to play cards this evening. And sure enough they are here.

      Dinner is tomato and cheese salad, delicious seeded brown bread, eggs from the coop, and real french fries. Thankfulness overflowing.

      But as I was leaving the Night Shift dominoes guys arrived.      Read more

    • TravelerBrenda’s Camino
      Day 36

      Palas de Rei to Ardue

      June 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      Today was hard. Just shy of 30km on rolling terrain most of the day. The sun was also out most of the day as well, so it was hot. I have developed something I have never experienced before, but you see it on the Camino all the time, "hiker's rash". I actually had it on my ankle at the beginning of the Camino, and it just went away, but now I have developed it on the back of my left arm. It doesn't hurt, just a bit red and itchy. Nothing a bit cortisone cream won't cure. Add that to the pharmacy I carry with me everyday.

      The terrain today was quite varied. The Camino begins to leave the oak and chestnut trees and now we are entering eucalyptus trees quite a bit. They smell wonderful. But the terrain also was on some roads, some busier than others, through villages and hamlets which are becoming increasingly more prosperous looking.

      The day was a bit more challenging because a school group of Irish girls are also hiking this last 100 km and seem to be on the same schedule as me, and though they are lovely and pleasant, I could do without the blaring music and their renditions of ABBA. So I found myself a few times, just stopping and waiting for a bit till they were further ahead.

      However, having said that, I am not a perfect pilgrim either. I had a what's app conversation with Claire for a bit, and then a video conversation with Christian in the last part of my day. They were both a welcome reprieve from a long day that was getting harder with every kilometre. It is not often that it is already nearly 6 pm before I am showered and getting organized. After two long days back to back, I am looking forward to a short 18 km day tomorrow.

      I visited the church of Iglesia de Santa Maria in San Xulian do Camino where legend says that the statue of Mary that was suppose to reside in the church kept being found by the fountain. In the 14th century, the villagers repeatedly put her back in the church, but she kept escaping, so they sculpted her into the wall to keep her firmly in the church!

      The Camino passes through a larger city of Melide, and though I was tempted by the "polpo" (octopus) which is a staple in this region of Galicia, I walked on through and thought that after a shower and some fresh clothes, and a glass of wine, I might enjoy it a bit more. It is a bit like lobster...I think they just boil it and serve it with some salt, and perhaps a sauce or spice. I have had it once already a couple of towns ago, and it is good. You just have to get over the fact that it looks like octopus, not the "calamari" we get which is considerably more appetizing and breaded!      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
      Day 16

      Day 52 - A Day in Ourense-Magosto Fiesta

      November 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Weather: 9 - 21 and sunny 🌞
      Feels like I have had a short winter and am back in Spring. 🙏🙏🙏

      The unfolding of an interesting day.
      At breakfast I started having a conversation with my roommate, Rebecca - although I didn’t ask her name till much later. Rebecca was having a day and night In Ourense before going to a yoga weekend in a nearby town. We chatted for a long time and the outcome was that we had a lovely day together.
      The Cathedral
      We started to head for the Tourist Information Centre but got sidetracked by the cathedral which was open and getting ready for a service associated with today’s Chestnut Fiesta. We looked and sat for quite a while - it was beautiful with good energy - and then continued on - but after getting all the info at the Tourist Centre we somehow ended up back at the cathedral where the service was about to begin.
      Of course now we stayed for the religious celebrations. The cathedral was full with lots of VIP types in the front rows. The ceremonies began with a procession of Galician bagpipers followed by men in white carrying a sacred statue. There was beautiful singing - choir and solo. It was an uplifting and interesting experience and in some ways reminded me of India where they also parade statues of great beings and sing and chant.
      We left when the speeches started because I couldn’t understand any of what they said.
      The service left us with a calm and uplifted feeling ready for the next event.

      Next the thermal pools
      By that time Rebecca had decided she wanted to stay in Ourense a bit longer than planned and wanted to revisit the thermal pools. She had been yesterday. So we hopped in her car and off we went. I felt very grateful because otherwise it would mean me deciphering the public transport or doing the 60 minute walk.
      We went to the ‘private’ pool - Outariz Thermal Station - which has a Japanese theme: lots of pools of different temperatures, pools with spa jets, cold pools to alternate with the hot, gentle music playing and notices encouraging silence and reflection. It took a while for me to relax into the experience but when I did it was blissful. I only got out when the body said that was enough for one day. If I lived in Ourense the ‘terma’ would be a regular event. For €5.70 you get a locker and two hours of bliss. Sorry no photos allowed. But I did take one of the public pool.
      https://www.turismodeourense.gal/en/recurso/est…

      The food expo came next
      This was a bit out of town - where we hoped to get something to eat. A bit of a disappointment in that the three course meals were between €30 and €60 but with pretty incredible menus. We had a look around and snacked on the free food. From what she shared, Rebecca seemed to be a bit of a foodie. She knew what foods were specialities in which areas and towns. Somehow I felt guilty taking the free food when I was never going to buy anything. But it was interesting to see the focus on good food in Galicia - and it shows in the meals I have had so far.
      Rebecca had a phone meeting so I had time to do a bit of journaling before we headed back to town.

      The Magosta Fiesta
      At 6 pm there was a concert and free roasted chestnuts in the Plaza Major. We got there a little before 6 and with Rebecca’s bold youth we quietly jumped the already huge queue to get our cone of chestnuts. She had to head off quickly and I had come all the way from Australia so I didn’t feel too bad about our bold move. The Spanish wait very patiently and when I left around 6.45 there was a queue around the corner and up the street.
      There was all sorts of local music and people dressed up as well-known traditional characters- with giant heads. It was great fun.
      The chestnuts were a bit of a disappointment - not so fresh - not as good as the ones the Korean girl roasted a few night ago. Nevertheless I had participated in the Magosta Fiestal and was very happy that I had participated in the free chestnut experience and heard some of the local music.
      However … on the way back to the hostel I chomped a chestnut on my sensitive tooth. It was very painful and I became grumpy and impatient with every one and everything. I remembered a saying of one of my teachers - trying to get pleasure from the world brings pounds of pain. Even though I had a lovely day I was reminded that all joy and happiness resides within.

      Buen Camino

      PS: After a good sleep, meditation and reflection, the next morning looked bright and cheerful again.

      Hostel Grelo
      Both the hospitalaros here speak English which is such a bonus for us Spanish deficient pilgrims. 😄
      The building is just on the edge of the old town and has three dorms. I think there are 6 of us here and spread out through the dorms so we are not in top of each other. There is a kitchen and lounge area. For €15 you get sheets, blankets (although I still used my sleeping bag/blanket as their blankets are a bit thin) and a towel and breakfast included. In Spain that is always toast or light pastry and coffee/ teas etc. because most people have eaten a big meal at 8.30 pm or later.      Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Provincia de Ourense, Ourense, Orense, Província d'Ourense, オレンセ（オウレンセ）

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