Zamora

The weather has become an interesting focus.
In Andalusia and Extremadura the weather was simple. It’s really hot - start early and finish by midday.
Here the weather has become complex - sun, cloud, wind, rain, cold, warm ….. So for a while I will begin with a weather report.

Weather today
Strong cool gusty wind and sun. Morning temp was 10 degrees and now at midday it’s 13 with a top of 17. Rain forecast this evening for a few hours.

The hero ingredients today were water obstacles and strong gusty wind. Luckily the water hazards were easy to negotiate and I was protected from the westerly wind by a windbreak of trees for most of the day. There were only a few times when I was directly in the wind’s path with gusts strong enough to blow me around a bit.
Towards the end of the morning the sky was clear and the sun shining with a beautiful light. There was corn, sugar beets (I discovered they are an important crop being affected by climate change) and grapes on either side. The approach to the village that is my stop for tonight was particularly beautiful with a special light and feeling.
Later I went for a walk and saw the ruins of a 13th Century monastery which I visited. I looked up the history of this village and saw it grew up around religious orders. Does that explain a little of the special feeling I have here?
Finishing my walks fairly early gives me lots of time for self care and reflection. Part of me has been a little embarrassed at my slow pace and I keep explaining about feet and injuries etc. Today I remembered a couple on the Camino Frances (2007) who were taking 3 months so they could really see everything and do all the side trips. At that time I thought that sounded like a great idea. And now here I am doing a slow Via De la Plata - taking time to enjoy every day.
I have met a number of pilgrims seemingly hurrying to Santiago - it’s hard not to judge them - to make myself right - instead of judging myself. I will practice honouring myself and my way - no more explanations.
I love being the only one in an albergue. I can wander around and chant aloud - and make it mine for a few hours.
I’ve just finished lunch at 3.00 pm. When I ordered a wine I was asked whether I wanted the ordinary (€1) or the good stuff (€2). I don’t think I need to say which I chose. This area prides itself on its wine so I was happy to oblige.
I had a taste of the grapes along the way - sweet and mellow.
Today I was reflecting on the villages in which I have stayed. When the final stopping place comes into view there is a special sensation. This is the place that will give me a roof, a bed, food, warmth, safety and comfort until the next day. I understand why they also call the pilgrim accommodation a ‘refugio’. I will meet the locals and they will take care of me . A love and gratitude arises. It’s quite extraordinary - I feel embedded for a few hours and then I move on. There is a feeling of intense gratitude every time, as without these villages, the albergues and the locals, the Camino would not possible.

Buen Camino

More about Villanueva de Campeán
‘The small red gravel track makes its way from El Cubo to the lands of Monteconcejo and Brochero, running between the vineyards and lined with small holm oaks. The small municipality of Villanueva de Campeán nestles on the side of La Esculca Hill.
Before entering the town, pilgrims will go past the ruins of a Franciscan Convent which although originally built in the 13th century, was altered considerably in the 16th century. The town sprang up around the convent.
This town is also the site of the 13th century Church of Santa María del Soto.’Read more