Spain
Quintanillas, Las

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    • Day 20

      Rabé de las Calzadas

      September 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

      It is said that you will travel through stages of experiences while walking the Camino; the first physical, then mental and finally spiritual. From Peg’s and my experience so far, we are hoping for a quick end to the physical stage and will welcome the mental.

      My tendon is doing amazingly well. I think the lighter days and new shoes have really helped (oh, and the miracle gel). But things were more challenging for Peg this morning. She has had a cough and stuffy head for the last couple of days. Today she woke feeling miserable. We canceled our very hard to get reservation for the night and tried to extend our stay in Burgos. Saturday night in Burgos with a fall festival was very busy with tourists and pilgrims and town was sold out. After lots of frustrations looking for a place for the night we found one.... an 8 mile walk away. It was such a relief to find a spot, but the walk was long. That said it was still a beautiful day to walk with a light sprinkle at the end.

      We had a great chat in a little bar with Beto from Mexico who is friends with the owners of Casa Ramos restaurant in Chico. What a small world. And little rewards for the day, we are in a very modern hotel that upgraded us to a two level, two bedroom suite with a living room, kitchen and most importantly, a washing machine!! The second reward was that Peg tested negative for COVID which we are hearing is making the rounds through the pilgrim family. Tomorrow’s a new day.

      Buen Camino.
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    • Day 23

      Hornillos del Camino

      October 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      We walked to our destination town, up on the Meseta plateau. There was an intermediate town with great murals. Followed by a steady, but not steep hill climb of about 7 kms.

      I forgot to mention, at the end of the day we hiked down a steep hill, named "Mata Mulus" which roughly translates to Mule Killer! Thanks goodness we were going downhill.Read more

    • Day 18

      Burgos to Hontanas - part one

      April 9 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ -1 °C

      A big day of firsts for this tiny trekker!

      1. First day of the Meseta, the plateau between Burgos and Leon.

      2. First blister, a cute little thing on the tip of my second left toe.

      3. First time needing to walk with the USB lid powering my med canister as I haven't had access to a freezer in Burgos for the cold brick.

      4. First 30km+ day on the trail - there have been other days over that but only including post-walk (what I'm calling 'after work') wandering around the town, where as purely albergue to albergue today is 32km.

      The bunks at the municipal in Burgos have completely nuked my back, and I'm honestly shocked I walked nearly 35km all told today. It was not great in the morning, loosened up about the 20km mark, but luckily it was pretty much the best case scenario terrain for the pain - extremely flat and reliable footing.

      I woke up every hour between midnight and three and got up at 3.45am, reading by the light of a vending machine and having my first two of what ended up being a four coffee day. When the doors opened at 6.30am I was off like a hobbled shot, weaving through dark streets to reach frosted fields on the edge of the city. Between the rain yesterday and a cold front overnight, I watched my breath billow and heard my footsteps crunch in the 1 degree stillness.

      I was inspired to listen to the whole Purple Rain album after that bar last night and, I dunno how recently you have, but I must say that When Doves Cry and PR are head and shoulders above the rest of the dross on that record my goodness.
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    • Day 9

      Day Nine

      July 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      I am in Tardajos, the gateway to the Meseta. Today was a strange day. It was an easy walk, mostly downhill except for a brief climb across Atapuerca (see last Footprint). It is July 25, the day of St. James and with that a holiday for pilgrims.

      Reading about the draughts and famines that used to ravish the area, the deaths, and the pain those caused, followed by a stroll through a church packed to the brim with golden excess luxury, makes me contemplative. Am I in fact walking with the insignia of a movement that emphasized creating golden temples to St. James at times that cost many of the people whose tithes and taxes built them their lives. Even today, am I comfortable paying this church to enter their houses for contemplation and reflection, when the same 5€ charged for entry could feed a person a good dinner?

      I had to say good bye to Maria and Esther who are ending their Camino in Burgos, meeting Esther‘s husband and kids in Leon tomorrow. The Dutch have fallen back, I might see some of them in the coming days, but Sander is too injured to keep up.

      Injuries are abound. I am proud of not letting anyone and anything rush me, arriving exactly where I want to be, at more or less the perfect time, without killing myself uphill or downhill. I am, in fact, a few miles ahead, both due to the fact that I left Burgos today after lunch and due to being pretty unharmed, physically and emotionally.

      My ON shoes, however, had to go. My one stop in Burgos was a sports store to pick up some Merrell trail walkers, which hopefully won’t completely wear through in a matter of days. Right now they feel … weird, but I’ll wear them in, I am sure.

      The albergue I am at is the best I have been in in all of my Caminos. Great beds, great people, and a backyard with cafeteria. I am sitting outside, listening to locals chat, enjoying a Clara (half beer and half lemonade) and Patatas Bravas, typing into my iPad Mini. Tomorrow my Meseta Adventure begins, the best part of the Camino.
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    • Day 14

      Alone

      August 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      After I passed the nice west part of Burgos with its nice parks and old buildings, the most depressing part so far started! Yesterday the Camino looked like a school excursion of 10 years old! Maybe because I started late today, maybe too many people ended their Camino in Burgos - however I almost saw nobody- no Pilgrim and almost nobody else! Wheatfields over and over and a few tiny old towns - this really feels lonely! However just when I thought about „ok, the Camino will somehow take care of me, an old nun guided me into a small chapel and gave me this necklace! She told me in Spanish that it will protect me ! Can’t hurt in this wilderness where I just saw a big snake!Read more

    • Day 15

      I arrived at the 499 km point

      October 31, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      So I made good time, two days ahead of schedule.
      The town is called Tajardos and it's about another 12km past Burgos.

      Great sunrise, followed by grey skies and rain.
      Burgos the highlight of course, but I've seen the sights, why I kept walking. Enjoy the picturesRead more

    • Day 21

      Day 17: Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

      June 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

      Mileage: 14.5
      Altitude gain: 430
      Altitude loss: 564
      Total mileage: 197

      We looked around Burgos a bit after some breakfast and then reluctantly made our way out of town. The route out of town took us by the university, which we enjoyed, and then put into the countryside again.

      Lots of grain fields again today. I was feeling pretty worn out by the heat, such as it was, when we stopped for lunch, but then the afternoon storms rolled in and cooled things off nicely. We did have to walk in the rain for much of the last three miles again, but it wasn’t too bad. We had our first glimpse of the meseta today (albeit clouded over) before descending into Hornillos for the night. We were so tired and wanted to eat dinner before that tends to happen here, so we had a delicious improvised feast from the little grocery store and went to bed by 7:00.

      1. A bit of today’s trail ran alongside the road, which fortunately wasn’t a busy one.
      2. A little church in Rabé de las Calzadas. Pretty sure this is a nun - she was leaving the church as we approached.
      3. We decided that this is the mayor of Rabé de las Calzadas. He led us all through the town and then disappeared with another pilgrim after we left town.
      4. - 8. Views as we climbed onto the meseta and tried to outrun the rain.
      9. The view down into Hornillos
      10. Made it! Of course this word has nothing to do with horns, but we enjoyed it anyway.
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    • Day 90

      TARDAJOS

      November 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      Und wieder müssen wir Richtung TULEDA fahren: Die Reparatur des Zahnes muss weitergehen.

      Heute stand ein erstes Teilstück der Strecke an - schon nachmittags haben wir uns auf einem freien Stellplatz der Gemeinde "niedergelassen".

      Nach dem Nachmittags-Kaffee stand dann ein Spaziergang durch die Ortschaft an: TARDAJOS liegt direkt an einem der Jakobswege. Entsprechend gibt es hier diverse Unterkünfte für die Pilgerer und auch jetzt so spät im Jahr sieht man immer wieder noch einsame Wanderer.
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    • Day 28

      Meseta au 18 ieme km

      May 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

      Nous atteindrons la Mesata Espagnole lorsque nous franchirons le 18 ième km de notre randonnée, entretemps chemin boisée au champs d'oiseaux, une petite brise 2 degré centigrade, la nouvelle veste a fait le travail j'ai nettement moins froid.

      Pendant notre départ des monuments médiévaux près des bâtiments modernes un contraste qui vaut leur devoir de conserver
      leurs héritages historiques, les bons et les mauvais souvenirs sont retenus et il est plus facile d'en faire le bilan, on oublie toutefois de souligner la période du règne du dictateur Franco obtenu par la guerre d'Espagne qu'il a provoquer pour obtenir le pouvoir avant la deuxième guerre mondiale heureusement il n'y a pas de statuePas de statue ni mention depuis notre arrivée.

      Nous sommes entrés dans la Meseta aux 18ème kilomètres ont a
      longer par des fleurs et coquelicots sur une plantation qui valsait avec le vent, La Mesata est toute verte loin des couleurs jaunes de juillet-août, elle est bien vivante en ce moment.
      Une auberge qui à la cote sur les sites de Compostelle et avons été choyées douche un minimum pèlerins.

      La forme physique a tenu le coup et on a réussi à compléter le 30 km
      en moins de 7 heures.

      Nous avons durant notre journée arrêté dans une chapelle parrainé par une sœur convaincue convacante elle s'est adressée à nous en Espagnole et nous disait que nous comprendrions l'essentiel de son message et ce que la vierge nous protégerait et nous aiderait à nous rendre au bout du Chemin avec des convictions religieuses renouvelée,
      elle nous a remis une médaille pour nous accompagner.
      Rencontre du Chemin innatendue qui retient ton attention et qui te fait retenir ton attention et te fait porter la médaille.
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    • Day 74

      64. Wandertag

      June 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

      Heute war Burgos mit seiner Kathedrale auf unserem Weg. Baubeginn 1221 für eine Hochzeit von König Ferdinand lll von Castilien und Bestrix von Schwaben. Bis 1734 wurde mit Unterbrechungen immer wieder gebaut und abgeändert. Vorbild für den Bau war das Basler Münster und Baupläne des Kölner Doms. Baudenkmal von unschätzbarem Wert. Eintritt kostet für Pilger 5 Euro siehe mein Beitrag von gestern.Read more

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    Quintanillas, Las

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