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11 travelers at this place:

  • Day2

    Day 1 - Sarria to Portomarin

    April 8, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    We started the walk at 8.30am and after a short detour around the town we headed off towards Portomarin. Along the route we collected the first four stamps in our Credential del Peregrino passports. We walked 23 kms through beautiful countryside in glorious sunny weather, torrential rain and hailstones. It was well worth the effort, especially as the pilgrim's menu includes a large glass of red for €1.50.Read more

  • Day32


    September 22, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Guter Kaffee zum Start, kaum Regen, schöne Landschaft. Portomarin ist eine ganz niedliche Kleinstadt, mit einer Kirche, die eher wie eine Burg aussieht. Erinnerte mich an die Kirche in Ponte de Lima in Portugal. Legonde ist ein kleines Dorf mit einer guten Bar mit gutem Essen, was will man mehr. Waschmaschine und Trockner gab's auch! Wir versuchen immer noch, es am 25.9. nach Santiago zu schaffen. Daher sind die aktuellen und kommenden Etappen alle etwa 28 km im Schnitt, das ist gut zu schaffen und rechtzeitig genug, um ein Bett zu bekommen. Und wir bleiben seit Tagen ja auch von den üblichen Etappenzielen fern, um den Massen auszuweichen. Auf dem Weg begegnet man ihnen mittags, dann wird's voll.Read more

  • Day2

    Jesus didn't start in Sarria

    May 7, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    “Jesus didn’t start his Camino in Sarria”, says the graffiti on the route marker, but we did.

    I was going to begin this blog yesterday evening, a little intro before we did get started, but we were hungry, so had a ‘pilgrims’ all-inclusive’ dinner - inclusive of a bottle of wine, of the taste, and strength (in my opinion) of dry sherry. Chris just described it as rough. I read somewhere that it is ok to write drunk, as long as you edit sober, but I can’t do either. I agonise and refine as I go along.

    “An Aussie fella, a scouser, an Irish woman, and a lady in a walking hat who wouldn’t be pigeon-holed were eating in a bar.”

    The mixed group at the next table who I have just stereotyped into a 1970s joke certainly wouldn’t be doing any writing last night, given that they could barely speak coherently. They sure could sing though! Motown mainly. We watched them weaving their way home to their hotels when we followed them down the hill to the church at the end of our meal. Pious little pilgrims aren’t we?

    The people you meet
    On our trip so far, we have already met up with a couple from Northamptonshire and their friend from Kent, and a South African woman from Gainsborough who’d exchanged her husband for her friend from Retford, and we’d not even begun walking at this point! We had a very interesting conversation about blisters and the location of toilets (the Camino is a very middle-aged occupation clearly). We concluded that we walked around all day without injury normally, so would not need the first aid supplies, and that the most convenient toilet was either this bush ‘aqui’, or that bush ‘alli’ if you wanted privacy. Cafes (with toilets) have in fact been fairly evenly spaced across the journey so far, so.. so far, “no hay problema.”

    I had a list before I came - not of things that I must not forget, but of who I should remember. Quite a lengthy list. Unfortunately, the tiny chapels and churches that we have seen along the way have all been locked up - it’s disappointing, but it’s saved us a fortune in candles - I think we may be in danger of setting light to the cathedral in Santiago when we finally get there...ooh la la, it wasn’t us honest!

    Walking on solid ground
    I recently received a thank you card, signed by all, from a group that I have been working with. One member simply wrote, “May you walk on solid ground.” I thought this was really lovely - It made me think of a particular time of loss, when it felt like the earth was shifting so much that I could no longer find a safe foothold. Although I have long since regained that connection, it just seemed quite relevant to our Camino journey. The first stage is quite hilly, and the paths are scattered with stones and coursed alongside shallow rocky streams (or babbling brooks, as Chris likes to call them). However, these tricky paths are edged with ancient trees, and meadows of emerald green filled with wild flowers - flowers that by any other name would be garden and hothouse - wild lupins, (purple and yellow), bee orchids, honeysuckle, med-blue gentian, monster foxgloves, broom, extra large dog violets, and a naturalistic, planted, heathland garden - multi-coloured. Another interesting feature along the way is the grain store or horreo . Here they are raised on stilts or pillars, and made of red bricks or wood panels, with steps up. We had been a bit concerned that the area might be susceptible to flash flooding (given the weather forecast later in the week), but no, apparently it’s just to keep the rats out.

    This area is very rural - the route is filled with people working the land, and the dogs who assist them. Every house, however small, has its own vegetable plot, and its own Alsatian. There was also one very loud and lonely donkey. He stopped braying when I spoke to him kindly, and stroked his nose :(

    Stopping over.
    We are now in Mercadoiro in a very nice alberge. Our bedroom looks rather like a wine cellar - we have taken this as a warning. Tomorrow we are aiming for Ligonde, via Portomarin. Or failing that, Alto de Hospital.

    Things learnt today:
    1. It doesn’t matter where you go, you’ll always find a Geordie.
    2. Sit your back pack belt on your waist to avoid straining your Monk Muscle (across the shoulders). Who knew? The Dutchman at our mid-morning coffee stop knew.
    A revelation!
    Read more

  • Day27

    Samos nach Mercadoido

    May 3, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Der Tag heute begann relativ früh, obwohl es kurz nach 6 noch frisch war und es noch dazu gestern spät wurde. Wir hatten uns nach dem Dinner das 3:0 Desaster von Athletiko gegen Real mit Fans der Verlierer angesehen und dazu 2 Flaschen Wein aufgerissen... Also war die Nacht ziemlich kurz, aber ich wollte ein paar Kilometer mehr machen und bin deshalb mit Taschenlampe los. Laufen ging heute recht gut. Nur die Strecke war schwierig, weil viele Teile noch durch den Regentag schmierig sind. Aber gut, ich hatte ja Zeit, die mit den kleinen Unterhaltungen am Weg auch zügig verging. Heute bin ich in einer Herberge. Wie üblich war das Pilger Menü voll für den Eimer, aber dafür wenigstens mit 13 Euro völlig überteuert. In guter Gesellschaft fiel das zwar weiter nicht so auf, aber so schnell, werde ich wohl keines mehr bestellen. Aber das beste am Tag war das passieren des 100 km Steins :-).Read more

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