Spain
Tábara

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    • Day 38

      Camino Sanabrés

      July 5 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

      05.07.24
      Tag 30 Camino Sanabrés (VdlP)

      Es geht Richtung Westen. Ich möchte diesmal die Via nicht bis Astorga gehen und dort auf den Camino Frances wechseln.
      Es wird der Camino Sanabrés (CS)
      Der Weg ist abwechslungsreich, mit etwas Felswandkontakt und schönem Singletrail.
      Aber irgendwie kann ich mich mit dem Sanabrés noch nicht anfreunden. Mal abwarten was noch alles kommt.
      Tábara ist heute mein Ziel.
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    • Day 40

      Granja de Moreruela - Tabara 19.6.2018

      June 19, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

      Zu früh gefreut. Der Flotte war gestern doch noch voll am Start. Ich schreibe nun wirklich nicht besonders gerne darüber, aber Blog ist Blog. Was den Tag prägt, kommt rein. Denn damit war das Abendessen gestern um 8 auch ganz schnell wieder abgehakt. Hätte mein Magen niemals bei sich behalten, so wie der plötzlich wieder rebellierte. Ist mir fast schon peinlich, denn ich klinge dann wie der Wasserkasten einer Toilette, wenn er nach der Spülung wieder vollläuft und am Schluss nur noch laut plätschert und gluckst. Wie so ein blöder Wasserkasten klinge ich. Unfassbar. Ehrlich.

      Also war um 20 Uhr nicht Tafeln sondern die Heia Trumpf. Die Nacht war entsprechend, und nach dem 5. Gang brauchte ich auch kein Licht mehr, um sicher die Treppe runter zur Toilette zu gelangen. Ich glaube zwischen 5 und 7 Uhr habe ich am Stück geschlafen, wachte auf, und bis auf 2 Biker waren schon alle wieder auf der Piste. Ich fühlte mich aber nicht so schlecht wie befürchtet und traute meinem Magen eine Nektarine und etwas Weißbrot mit stillem Wasser zu. Der verhielt sich auffällig unauffällig, kein Getöse aus der Magengegend war zu vernehmen.

      So machte ich mich also gegen 8.30 Uhr auf die Socken. Direkt im Ort noch war die angesprochene Weggabelung direkt an einer Hausecke, die die Via de la Plata nach Norden bis Astorga und den Camino Sanabres nach Westen über Ourense bis nach Santiago de Compostela führt. Völlig unspektakulär waren da zwei Kacheln angebracht. Rechts am Haus vorbei nach oben ging's nach Astorga, und links am Haus vorbei ging's nach Ourense. Foto anbei.

      Der Weg war dann endlich mal wieder viel abwechslungsreicher als zuletzt 😎 erstes Highlight: die Überquerung des Flusses Esla auf einer tollen uralten Steinbrücke. Fotos anbei. Zweites Highlight: was direkt nach der Brückenüberquerung kam 😁 da ging es nämlich press in den komplett bewachsenen Berghang und ich durfte wieder Bergziege spielen. Hätte nicht gedacht, dass ich mich darüber sogar mal freuen würde. Aber nach der ganzen landschaftlichen Monotonie der letzten Zeit tat das einfach saugut. Das soll jetzt nicht heißen, ich wäre nun zum Freund des Bergwanderns mutiert, das nicht. Nicht, daß da ein falscher Eindruck entsteht 😎

      Danach ging es landschaftlich eher wieder gemäßigter zu, breite Pisten inmitten weiter Felder. Mein Körper spielte weiter erstaunlich gut mit, auch ohne Cafe Americano am Morgen oder ähnlichem Treibstoff. Kann ich mir nur so erklären, dass der Körper das in Situationen wie dieser jetzt einfach mit der Kondition wettmacht, die er sich nun über Wochen antrainiert hat. Der erste Ort kam heute nach 19 km und da wollte ich mir dann die volle Booster-Dröhnung verpassen. Falls die Bar auf war. Sie hatte auf 😁 Es wurden dann 2 Cola auf Eis und ein Cafe Americano, um ganz sicher zu gehen 😎 die letzten knapp 7 Kilometer habe ich dann wie aufgezogen fast im Sprint zurückgelegt.

      Jetzt muss ich aber trotzdem gleich mal zur Apotheke, weil mich hier irgendwas gestochen, nein eher gebissen haben muss, so wie der linke Arm aussieht. Als hätte ich die Beulenpest. 5 richtig fette Beulen. Und noch einige kleinere Beulen und Stiche. Im Gesicht nur ein Stich zum Glück. Fotos vom Arm lasse ich lieber, ist einfach ziemlich eklig. Mal schauen, was die von der Apotheke davon halten. Aber vorher noch duschen und Haare waschen.

      Der Magen verhält sich weiterhin erstaunlich ruhig. Bin verhalten optimistisch 😎

      Edit Apotheke: Der Mann in Weiß, also zumindest fast weiß, schaute zunächst verblüfft, als ich ihm mein Desaster am linken Arm präsentierte. Dann unterzog er die Sache einer genaueren Begutachtung und begann, etwas in seinen spanischen Bart zu murmeln. Das einzige, was ich verstand, war "Mosquitos". Naja, Maikäfer hatte ich jetzt auch weniger im Verdacht. Egal, er schlich ins Lager und kam mit Salbe zurück. Könnte jetzt auch gegen Fußpilz sein, aber was soll's. Drauf damit und sehen, was passiert. Mein Magen verhält sich weiterhin erstaunlich ruhig, das lässt ein richtiges Abendessen in greifbare Nähe rücken 😎

      Stand heute: 865 km 🚶🍀
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    • Day 39

      D35 to Tábara

      March 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 68 °F

      25k … Well, even after stating it a few days ago, and still agonizing the last 48 hrs, it’s time to talk a break. (See earlier post)
      It’s not easy to stop and no reason is 💯 accurate but it’s a good choice and a good place to stop. I’m heading to Toledo for a few days and then down to Cádiz (beach!!) for 6 nights for the crazy week of Semana Santa (Easter, and one of my fears being on the trail. Crazy unpredictable closures)
      Mostly, mentally I’m not accomplishing anything more, in a grind and feeling pressure to get to the next spot and not stopping to enjoy things… I will very probably be back to finish, possibly ever just after Easter (🤷‍♂️ probably not, but you never know) but sometime!! I think 2-3 weeks earlier than right now?!? Or Fall?!?
      Also I’m still battling this stupid chest cold, been on meds for almost 1 week and it’s not interfering with anything, but but need to get it cleared up.
      Sooo, the adventure continues, and as many pilgrims will say: so does the Camino, just in a different form ❤️
      ✌️
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    • Day 17

      Granja de Moreruela to Tabera

      October 5, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      Granja de Moreruela to Tábara

      Distance 25km (5.5 hours)

      I said my farewell to Rogerosky at 6am this morning. That is the way of the Camino. He is a good man and I enjoyed walking with him for three days.
      I set off at 06.30am in total darkness. It was cool and there wasn’t any wind. As soon as I left the village, l was joined by Ankel, a Spaniard from Bilboa. Together, we set a blistering pace in the darkness. We quickly completed the first 7km when we took a wrong turn and had to back track half a kilometre. Your instincts tell you that you are not going the right way. We were quickly back on track.
      We walked a lot of road today. We finally got to Fanamontanos de Tábara at around 10am. We found the only cafe/bar in the place. The lady prepared a wonderful tortilla for us and a cafe con leche for the princely sum of 2.60 euros.
      We walked the final 5 kilometres to Tábara and the Albergue. I passed over Spain’s version of the H2S railway track. It is nearing completion and will have super fast trains running from Seville to Madrid.
      We are the first peregrinos at the Albergue. We were fretted with a warm welcome and a cold beer. It is a traditional Galician Albergue. The hispilardo wash’s our clothes and provides us with a meal this evening. You are simply asked to make a suitable donation.
      And that was my 16th day in the Via de la Plata and Camino Sanabrés.
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    • Day 29

      Granja de Moreruela - Tabara 25 km

      May 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

      Luis and Delphine were lovely guys but they snored all night, so I was awake at 0500, and I just got up and got ready and set off at 0520. I made really good time for the first couple of hours and enjoyed the walk. I stopped at the bridge over the Esla River to take some photographs, and then had to decide on which route to take, I could stay on the road or follow the camino path alongside the river. I decided on the camino path, it was a lot slower and a lot more uneven and dangerous but it was fun. I messaged Mirjam to give her a heads up about the path and then carried on. I stopped in Faramontanos for coffee and tostada and messaged Mirjam to let her know the café was open. Luis, Delphine and I passed each other a couple of times as we took different stops for refreshments, but for the most part we walked together, and in fact we arrived in Tabara together. I was so grateful for their company, they were supportive and encouraging and really helped me to do the walk.

      The guys were going on to the municipal which was on the far side of town and required walking back the way we had come to rejoin the camino so I decided to get a single room in the private albergue 2 mins from the camino. It was only 19€ which I felt was worth it to have your own space and your own toilet/shower for one night. I messaged Mirjam to say I had arrived and let her know about the albergues and we agreed to meet for a drink once she arrived. When we met up she wanted to go visit the historic church which also housed a museum on the history of the church. In the Middle ages it had been a centre of education and learning and they had many books and parchments from the period on display.

      As we went for our drinks she was greeted by two American ladies Meg and her cousin Kathleen, and we stood and chatted with them for a while. My experience with Americans on the camino had not been great but they were friends of Mirjam's and Anita's (Anita had mentioned them a few times) so that was good enough for me. They invited us to come to the albergue later and they would fix us dinner. I went along as instructed and had an absolutely fabulous time, Meg and Kathleen were instantly likeable, and great fun, Mirjam, Anne, Julia, and Guillermo were all there and the food and conversation were great, it was a fab evening and I think it was that night that really cemented what had been the beginning of a significant friendship for me, for that was the night that I think we really became a group. It was either Meg or Kathleen who said they were looking for a token man to be in their group and I was that token man. I could not have been happier to be typecast so. From that moment on we would journey together. (Guillermo was cycling the camino whilst working and so dropped in and out of the group at various points depending on those factors)
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    • Day 31

      On the Sanabrés

      May 22, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      At Granja, the Via de la Plata splits. One can continue on the VdlP to Astorga and join the Camino Francés, or do as I have and head west to Santiago via the Camino Sanabrés.

      A good days walk although for some reason my feet are very sore this evening, and my ankles puffy. It may be time for a rest day with feet up instead of down. I’m in Tábara which is a pleasant little pueblo and in a room in El Roble Hotel for €20 - I stayed in the municipal albergue last year and it is fine - but for the small amount extra I do love a big towel, a bed instead of bunks, my own bathroom, a tv, air conditioning...,Read more

    • Day 2

      Day 38 - Santa Marta - 22.8 km

      October 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Weather: Temp: 14 - 21 degrees. Light rain late morning and late afternoon.
      Clothes: short sleeve merino top, light fleece, trekking pants.

      The walk
      This was described as a relatively easy walk in terms of terrain, through forested hills. Instead it has been a rather sad day walking through country devastated by last summers fires - mile after mile - for the whole walk.
      At one point one side of the road was completely burnt and black and the other side green with some trees. I stopped to take it all in. The burnt side was silent; it felt dead. I could hear bird song in the distance - but all coming from the green side of the road.
      Even worse, the trees in Spain will not recover the way the eucalyptuses do. I think there were great swathes of hills already completely cleared for replanting.
      At one point I thought the soil had changed colour from red and yellow to black. Then I saw the black was from the fires. So sad.
      In the evening I went to the Santa Marta church which is a unique and important Romanesque Church built in the 12th - 13th Centuries and being the location for the first Camino Pilgrim statue - a small statue, flanking one of the doors.
      There is an area at the back of the church that you pass through to get into the nave. This area seemed filled with energy and I wondered if a saint was buried there. It turns out that it is the repository for a number of important relics. I guess these ones were for real because the relic box definitely gave out a lovely strong and constant vibration. I wonder if I will feel anything this time in Santiago.

      Food
      The stopping point for tonight is a bit confusing regarding food. I thought there was a restaurant 1 km before my final destination but with the sore knee I missed it. But I did stop at the shop for some extra supplies.
      In the bar near the albergue I got a a Jamon and cheese bocadilla at 3.30 pm. I thought maybe I would have to fill up on wine 😂😂😂
      Then when I was at the church I prayed to be nourished by divine light seeing I hadn’t eaten my usual hearty meal. It must have worked at least a bit because dinner of fruit, yogurt and nuts was enough. 🙏🙏🙏

      Update in the body
      Remember that ‘soft’ fall I had the other day. Well I didn’t notice that I had grazed/ bumped the side of my left knee. Today it started to really hurt. So I stopped, used the Voltarin cream and popped on the elastic bandage. Thank goodness I was only a couple of K’s from the next town. Right now I am in the bar with my vino, some tapas and resting my leg in a chair. I will sit here for a while and see how it goes.
      On the bright side the hills of today were so much easier than a few weeks ago - which is great as we get into the more hilly country.

      Camino magic.
      Last night I ate a small amount of the pilgrim meal at 8 pm. A slight headache had started in the afternoon/ evening and I woke with the same headache, plus a stuffed up nose and scratchy eyes.
      Note to self: Do not eat that late again - not even a small amount! Not a good start to the day.
      I also woke with the feeling of being an incompetent and vulnerable child - that I was incapable of doing anything - maybe like an abandoned 5 year old. I have had this feeling a few times on Camino but instead of turning away, this time I acknowledged and welcomed the feeling with the understanding that this is not who I really am.
      So with all that I got dressed and went to breakfast. The coffee was well appreciated and there was music playing on the CD player. There was a choir singing something very familiar and I think connected to the Christian church. It was incredibly beautiful; the voices touched something deep and wonderful inside, and tears came. I let them come for a few moments and then went outside for some privacy. Then the music changed, the tears calmed and I went back inside.
      Now for the past few days I have been surrounded by men - some of them seemingly sweet and some annoying. Last night there were two pilgrims with whom I have been keeping pace and three on bikes. It’s funny sleeping in a dorm with 5 blokes. There is very little privacy but a wonderful protocol of keeping to one’s self so it is easy to get dressed and undressed in the dark.
      Anyway back to the story - when I went back inside to breakfast something had changed. They were no longer nice or annoying men to be kept at arms length - they were fellow pilgrims, in fact just fellow humans, with me, on this journey of life for a short time. Even as I write these words my eyes fill with tears - something has loosened, softened.
      I am sitting in a bar (midday break) with music playing (something Spanish) making me want to dance just for the joy of being alive at this time and in this place.
      I think we must waste so much energy keeping things inside, tamped down, keeping it together. One of the things I love about the Spanish is that what you see is what you get - sometimes grumpy, frustrated, tired but eventuality nearly always kind, helpful and connected.
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    • Day 3

      Faramontanos de Tábara

      July 28, 2014 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      In the night we got a lot of fleabi tes. We stated at 4:40 in total darkness. The stars and the Milky way were so nice, we saw some meteorites. The descent to the lake (after the bridge) was in the dawn quite difficult. In Faramontanos de Tábara we were happy to find an open bar for breakfast: beer, omolet-sandwitch.Read more

    • Day 6

      To Tábara

      June 15 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Long hike to Tábara today. It was because we took the wrong way out of Granja ignoring all the signs we were off track. This added a few km to our daily trek and at least an hour to our days hike. Norman and I took the road, an easier route it seemed after the bridge. It was however arguably just as difficult The seat of a short, vertical scramble up rocks it was a long drawn out incline over several kilometers. It didn't take much of this until my forefoot was done. At that point just gotta keep going. We found the Camino after a while and stuck to that. We had a snack at a bridge and moved in. The albergue in Tàbara was held together by an older guy who made us dinner that night. Met a German guy Mike and the bicyclists as well as a Spanish woman who was doing 40k a day just about. Gioele and I went around town looking for the bar Jane was at but ended up going to the grocery store. I explained a life straw to him, which piqued his interest. We also talked about random things. He was a good fun guy. After dinner I brought out the lifestraw and no less than 4 people were crowded around as I fumbled through an explanation in Spanish and English.Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Tábara, Tabara

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