Spain
Vedra

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    • Day 50

      Fast fertig

      July 17 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

      17.07.24
      Tag 50
      Camino Sanabrés, VdlP und VA

      Da bin ich nun in Ponte Ulla und gehe morgen nach Santiago de Compostela.
      Mehr gibt es heute nicht zu sagen.

      Ach ja, doch eins möchte ich anfügen, mein Abbruch auf dem NST ist noch nicht verdaut. Da helfen auch keine 1300 Kilometer durch Spanien.Read more

    • Day 28

      Mosteiro de Carboeiro

      May 8 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Promptly at 4:30, José Manuel picked me up. A very knowledgeable and garrulous man, he was not content to take me only to the monastery, but also took me to a huge pazo (estate) and several scenic lookout points. But for me, the prize was the monastery.

      I had the church all to myself, and it was beyond what I had imagined. So many intersecting and overlapping arches, the high vaults— it gave almost a gothic-y feeling of soaring space (sorry, I really don’t know what I’m talking about, but that was the impression it gave me). No human figures on the capitals, but lots of very intricate plant designs. I was very happy that I had spent a lot of time outside yesterday, and today my focus was just on the beautiful interior.

      I learned that Enrique Iglesias made a music video in this church, and it scandalized the church authorities. I watched it, and I have to say I am shocked. Since the monastery is owned by the government, the church had no input, but there was a lot of controversy

      https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=m3We7p78XTo

      I am ending the day sitting out on the terrace of my Casa Rural, eating a good salad, and feeling very grateful.
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    • Day 28

      Another day, another detour!

      May 8 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Pico Sacro (Sacred Peak) has an important role in the Saint James story. It is told that when the two disciples bringing St. James’s body from the holy land arrived in this part of the world, they spoke with La Reina Lupa. (a pagan queen). She told them to bring the body up to the top of Pico Sacro, with the nefarious plan that the dragon in residence would take care of the intruders. Thanks to divine intervention, however, the dragon was killed. Reina Lupa converted to Christianity and some say she is also buried in the cathedral in Santiago.

      I have seen Pico Sacro’s recognizable shape from afar many times and from different directions on different caminos. This was the year to get up to the top. Pico Sacro is only a few kilometers off this Camino. Once again, I am grateful for Wikiloc . I found a track that did not involve backtracking, but made for a perfect little bump out and back to the Camino route.

      The 360 views are pretty great, and I could definitely make out the Santiago Cathedral spires. I was surprised to have the place all to myself, but enjoyed a couple of mandarins and some nuts while sitting on a stone on the top and rotating to change the view every few minutes.

      From there to today’s destination was only a few kilometers. Since tomorrow is a big holiday in Santiago, I stocked up on a few groceries before heading to my Casa Rural. I did not know until last night that the Ascension is a huge deal fiesta in Santiago, second only to St. James’ day in July.

      The casa rural is a beautiful place, Casa De Casal. The home has been in the family for many generations, and Patrícia’s father and mother converted it into a Casa Rural. They have a huge amount of land, because her father had been a commercial flower seller, selling flowers to all the stores in the province. It’s a beautiful and very restful place. It’s not normally the case that I am showered and done with washing clothes by two, so I can enjoy the grounds in the sunshine and admire the many shades of green.

      16 km and 524 m of ascent. From one nice Casa Rural (Quinta das Maceiras) to another.
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    • Day 11

      Silleda nach Ponte Ulla (20 km)

      April 24 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Heute gab es wieder eine etwas entspannter Route, die uns durch eine herrliche Landschaft jedoch mit weniger Weitblick (da eher flacher) führte. Unser Ziel war heute Ponte Ulla, das wir am Mittag schon erreichten. Hier begegneten wir am Ortseingang eine deutschen Reisegruppe, die im gemieteten Van scheinbar gemeinsam in Spanien per Auto unterwegs sind. Wir erhielten anerkennende Worte für unsere bisweilen zurück gelegte Strecke, waren selbst aber einmal mehr überzeugt, dass unsere Art des Reisens uns an dieser Stelle wirklich die liebste ist.
      Nach einem leckeren Mittagessen aus dem Supermercado, dass wir auf der Brück über den Rio Ulla in der Sonne genossen, haben wir uns mit unseren drei spanischen Freunden über Gott und Politik in Spanien und der Welt, heute und in der Vergangenheit, ausgetauscht. Spannende persönliche Einblicke.
      Eigentlich hatten wir für die nächsten zwei Tage sehr kurze Routen vorgesehen. Da wir jedoch festgestellt haben, dass unsere präferierte Herberge bereits ausgebucht ist, haben wir uns entschieden, morgen schon Santiago zu erreichen. Wir freuen uns schon darauf. Nun sind es nur noch 21 km bis nach Santiago de Compostela.
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    • Day 52

      Lalin - Ponte Ulla 1.7.2018

      July 1, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

      Geschafft! 😁

      War heute ein rundum unaufgeregter Tag. Nichts Unvorhergesehenes geschah, war mir auch nicht unrecht, so kurz vorm Ziel 😎

      Heute morgen außerordentlich gut erholt erwacht, aufgestanden und diese wunderbare Dusche ausgiebig genutzt. Ich liebe diese begehbaren, ebenerdigen Duschen, in denen man ein wenig auf und ab spazieren kann. Einfach großartig! Danach an der Rezeption meine frisch gewaschenen und gut duftenden Klamotten abgeholt und auf dem Zimmer fertig für den Tag gemacht. Der natürlich wieder mit Regen aufwartete. Ich mich also regenfein gemacht und ab ging's auf die Strada namens N-525. Meine gute alte Freundin. Sie war wieder da.

      Und führte mich dann auch von Lalin wieder zurück auf den Camino. Nach insgesamt rund 14 km war Silleda erreicht. Dort natürlich erst einmal gestärkt, dazu trugen ein Bocadillo mit Schinken und Käse, garniert von einer Dose Cola, sowie abschließend ein Cafe Americano erfolgreich bei.

      In Silleda fing es nach kurzzeitiger Wetterbesserung wieder an, ordentlich zu schütten. Ich hatte kurzfristig überlegt, die Etappe im Grünen fortzusetzen, kam dann aber schnell zu der Einsicht, daß mir die N-525 die besseren Dienste erweisen würde. Also weiter Asphalt getreten, nächste Station war Bandeira, etwa 8 km entfernt. Dort erneut an einer Cola und einem Cafe Americano nicht vorbei gekommen.

      Da sich an dem Wetter auch weiterhin nichts Wesentliches geändert hatte, ging es dann weiter auf der N-525 auf die letzten 13 km nach Ponte Ulla. War wunderbar zu laufen. Der Seitenstreifen ausreichend breit und die Autofahrer ausreichend fähig, keine brenzligen Situationen entstehen zu lassen.

      So wurden es heute also 35 km auf Asphalt. Und was soll ich sagen - meine Füße fühlen sich so frisch wie heute morgen an. Kein noch so kleines Zwicken oder Brennen. Rein gar nichts. Ich bin echt immer wieder extrem verblüfft, wie so etwas möglich sein kann.

      Hier in Ponte Ulla bin ich im Restaurant Rios, bzw. der dazugehörigen Pension. Inhaberin ist Hilda, sie ist deutschsprachig und ausgesprochen nett ist sie auch, ich habe ein hübsches, schlichtes Doppelzimmer für 12 EUR bekommen, das Restaurant ist im Haus, sie hat mich sogar schon gefragt, um wieviel Uhr ich essen möchte! Muss sich mal einer vorstellen! Normalerweise gibt es feste Uhrzeiten, und nach denen hast du dich zu richten. Punkt. Hier und heute nicht 😊

      Ja, und morgen ist es soweit. Es geht auf erträglichen 20 km tatsächlich und unwiderruflich nach Santiago de Compostella. Dem offiziellen Ende aller Caminos. In meinem Fall natürlich nicht wirklich 😎 der Atlantik wartet noch auf mich. Ein besonderer Tag wird es aber dennoch werden. Da bin ich mir sicher. Sehr.

      Stand heute: 1.192 km 🚶🍀
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    • Day 52

      Nachtrag Ponte Ulla 1.7.2018

      July 1, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      😊 Ich wurde hier von Hilda und ihrer Tochter sooo verwöhnt, das muss ich einfach noch besonders erwähnen. Vielen lieben Dank nochmal für eure ganz ganz besonders herzliche Gastfreundschaft! 😍 Ich habe mich hier unglaublich wohl gefühlt! 😊Read more

    • Day 19

      Sleepover Day 18

      August 7, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      So after all of the mechanical issues with Elvis, we finally got back on track and arrived at Vedra to stay at the beautiful house with William and Conchita. They had made a little bed up for one of the boys as they only had a double room available. They were very Hospitable and by the time we arrived in the tiny village Elvis had already arrived and been fixed. Oh, and they have kittens. Lots of kittens.Read more

    • Day 22

      Day 58 - Santiago - 22.4 km

      November 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

      Weather: 9 - 15 degrees, another rainy day
      Clothes: The same. It seems that when it was really cold there was virtually no rain and now there is rain it’s not so cold. 🙏.

      The walk
      An early 7.30 am start in the dark. The mind and feelings somewhat wondering and worrying about the usual things.
      I met an Austrian pilgrim who was convinced it would rain. My weather forecast said not. But it did pour down for about an hour or maybe two - I hope he was satisfied. 😂
      For me it cleared up and alternated between clear and light rain. All OK by me and it was warm walking so double OK.
      The countryside was the usual villages, country lanes and back roads. There was more timber harvesting today. Life goes on regardless of how many pilgrims trudge past.
      Arrived at Santiago at 1.30 pm. A lovely last day of Via de la Plata / Sanabres

      Santiago reflections
      Arriving today seems inevitable. I’m not talking about arriving at Santiago. That was always going to happen aside from an unforeseen event.
      But today - 17 November - as being that day, feels inevitable; like no matter what my plans might have been this was always going to be the day. I have tried to ‘stretch out’ the last stages given my flight to Australia isn’t till the end of the month.
      However today is the day. And it has been perfect.
      On my first Camino (Frances) I think I was just in a daze coming into Santiago. On my second Camino I came in from Portugal at dawn when the whole city was still and golden - a wonderful experience - I wanted the walk in to last forever.
      This time I felt like I was in a river of energy that carried me along- no more stops, no more delays, keep going, keep moving. Today was definitely the day.
      As I came through the outskirts and then into the old city the mind was quiet. I really didn’t know what to expect this time and was wondering how it would be. I haven’t had any big insights or spiritual experiences in this Camino. Just me walking one day at a time.
      As I came closer to the cathedral I felt a sweet, golden and peaceful feeling. It was subtle and gentle and words can’t really describe it. But it was there and different from anything that came before in the last 8 weeks.
      Of course another Camino Angel was there to greet me. Lovely young French/Spanish Agnes, who has been at the same albergues for the past week, was also walking in today. When I first saw her in Oseira I was sure I had met her before - on a Camino: but no.
      Today we met at a cafe and then parted. Then as I arrived at the cathedral there she was. Photos were taken and at her initiative we went for our Compostellas. Agnes knew exactly where to go, having walked many Camino’s. She also found the best value hostel close to the Cathedral.
      And she organised to go to the 7.30 pm mass where the countries that the pilgrims come from are announced. One peregrina from Australia. 😄😄😄

      I’ve booked two nights at the hostel and will then start for Muxia. I think I am looking forward to that. My weather anxieties seem to be in check now.

      Look out for the next chapter.

      PS - added a year later
      Agnes, the bicycle guys and another young man and I all went for drinks in the evening at Agnes’s invitation. I was only going to come for a short while but we all ended up drinking and talking (did we eat?) till after midnight. I discovered that all my fears about being able to do the Via had nothing to do with my age - the young man (whose name I have forgotten) had all the same fears too.
      Needless to say I felt a bit seedy the next day.

      Buen Camino
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    • Day 26

      Silleda to Outeiro

      October 14, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Silleda to Outeiro

      Distance 24 kms (6 hours)

      Last night, there was only 7 peregrinos in the Albergue. It was on the top floor of a municipal building and felt like a ship. For the first time on the Camino, we were supplied with a proper sheet and pillowcase...luxury.
      I spent most of the evening with a bag of ice on my leg. It helped to reduce the swelling.
      Roraigh and I met a few peregrinos in the town and went for a quick meal before we had to rush back to the Albergue to register with the hospilardo. It was just as well we did as it started to rain heavily. We managed to rescue our drying clothes.
      This morning, we set out at 8.30am. It was cold and lashing rain. I made the conscious decision to walk most of the way on the road. N525 goes all the way to Santiago. My logic was that it won’t be muddy and fairly dtraight forward. I might find a place for a coffee and food. It turns out that I made the right decision, Roraigh follows the yellow arrows (fechas) and described it as a meandering mud bath.
      There were some big ascents and descents but I simply switched off mentally and listening to music as I walked along in the rain.
      The last 4 kilometres were fantastic. Back on the official trail, it took me through narrow lanes through eucalyptus and oak forests. It was beautiful.
      The sun came out as I arrived at the Xunta hostel which is in an isolated village. It is really modern and cosy as the heating is on. Time to relax. Tomorrow, I have 17 kilometres to walk to Santiago de Compostela.
      And that was my 25th day on the Via de la Plata / Camino Sanabres.
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    • Day 25

      Outeiro

      September 22, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Pretty long day today with some steep downhill then sharply uphill at the end. The albergue is 3 miles from any food or services and has no internet but it is warm outside and dry inside with showers. Tomorrow we will reach Santiago.Read more

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    Vedra

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