Spain
Vega de Valcarce

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    • Day 30

      The earliest departure ever

      June 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

      Got out shortly after 6 in the morning in order to attack the big hill that is coming up and give myself plenty of time to do that
      temperatures are still supposed to get hotter in the day with the possibility of thunderstorms developing after 2:00pm

      Obviously got treated to a sign of a full moon and unfortunately missed the pink moon the previous night
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    • Day 28

      Etappe 23 - La Laguna 1

      October 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Nachtruhe gibt verbrauchte Kräfte doch schnell zurück. Ziehe zwar die Schnarcher an, aber mit Ohrstöpsel einigermaßen zu ertragen.
      Heute gemeinsam mit Patrick aus Melbourne gegen 8 Uhr gestartet.
      Bis Las Herrerias eine einigermaßen abwechslungsreiche Etappe, ohne große Steigungen. Sind viel entlang der Landstraße gelaufen. War kein verkehrliches Problem, da heute Sonntag ist.
      Dann ging es in die Bergkilometer bis La Laguna. Hier bin ich, trotz Landstraße, ganz schön am meine Grenzen gekommen.
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    • Day 30

      Villafranca del Bierzo to O'Cebriero

      April 21 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      I am just now, with one week to go, building a fucking Camino family. I am simultaneously thrilled and devastated.

      In the kitchen last night I ended up having dinner, and a tea, and a really genuinely good conversation, with Lucy, an Englishwoman living in Malaga. This morning, I finally asked where the incredibly gentle man that looks like a punk anarchist bouncer is from - he folds his clothes and makes his bed so slowly and carefully. Turns out I've slept next to Christian from Naples three times and we have both been speaking broken if earnest Spanish to each other this entire time. I know his neighbourhood. He is a delight.

      Eight kilometres in, salut to the tiny French woman Maggie I've orbited in the last few days. 10 kilometres in, Fabrice emerges from the opposite direction to the trail, swearing and swinging his poles around in frustration at having taken a completely useless detour. Maggie sent him the wrong way, did I hear the dog? Did I hear him screaming swear words at the dog? He's two days into quitting smoking, you can tell.

      I was a bit nervous about the elevation later so I broke a month long tradition and walked with him all day, with brief interludes. He said I calmed him. He was surprisingly protective - buying me coffees, pulling me away from traffic, walking on my outside on the roads, peeling me apples, making me fill my water and put on sunscreen. After a month of aggressive self sufficiency, this was unusual but nice - a lesson in accepting help maybe.

      In the last four kilometres Lucy and Maggie joined us, along with some completely knackered Japanese men, and we summited together. What a bloody view. It was so worth it. I don't know about hardest day. There were certainly tough bits, and in different weather sure maybe it would have been less enjoyable, but honestly I loved it. Maybe I am harder too. 💪
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    • Day 8

      Day 7: Villa Franca de Bierzo to Laguna

      April 12 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

      Another long walk! 17 miles this time. Forgot to say, it ended up being a hot one! I think it was in the 80s. I was lucky to find a store that sold sun tan lotion. I forgot ours. But we did get some sun burn first.
      What a beautiful day. Started off for quite a few miles walking on the road. No ones favorite. But finally went to mountains in a distance and country roads.
      The last 3 miles or so was all up hill!! I will admit, at one point I may have thrown a temper tantrum. Why are we going all the way to Laguna?? There is a place to stay before that which works just as well. I lost. Patrick persisted.
      In the end, after I barely survived getting up to the top of the mountain, it was magical. So many people we met along the way were here. This is the only alburgue so it was nice to see people we might not have seen for a few days.
      After dinner, some young people got together and one was playing guitar and people were signing. Very nice!
      10 pm now. Lights out.
      Tomorrow we go further up the mountain and down, down, down.
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    • Day 34

      Tag 34 Villafranca Lalaguna de Castilla

      June 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      Der heutige Tag ist nur mit einen zu beschreiben sehr Fordernt.
      Es ging erst durch einen Schnellstraßen Tunnel der eigentlich für Fußgänger gesperrt ist.
      Dann fing es an zu regnen und zu guter letzt ging es auch noch 700 Meter hoch.
      Er war der erste Tag wo ich wirklich am Ende war und froh als die Herberge in Sicht kam. Natürlich wie sollte es auch anders sein gab es als Belohnung noch eine richtig dicke Blase.
      Bei der mir ein anderer Pilger dann gleich half und die Blase versorgte.
      Genau so wie ich am 2ten Tag einem anderen auch geholfen hatte.
      Das ist der Geist dieses Weges .
      Genau wie in einer große Familie.
      Es wäre schön wenn dieser Geist auch im normalen Leben Einzug hälte.
      Leider gibt es das viel zu wenig.
      Hier merkt man erst das es völlig egal ist wo einer herkommt und was er macht alle haben die gleichen Outdoor sachen an so gibt es keine unterschiede.
      Alle sind einfach nur Pilger.
      Die 600 km Marke ist geschafft.
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    • Day 33

      Von villafranca nach la laguna de castil

      June 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

      Hallo zusammen, heute stand die nächste Etappe auf dem Speisezettel und das Menü war seeehr abwechslungsreich. Vorspeise: Überwiegender Untergrund: Asphalt an Tunneldurchführung und Autobahnbrücken. Hauptspeise: Strömender Regen, zerklüftete Bergpanoramen und Sonne Wolkenmix. Nachspeise: extrem steile Anstiege mit Geröll und glitschigem Untergrund auf ca 1200 hm, Hellado in Form von Hagelkörnern. Alles in allem ein abwechslungsreiches Menü auf einer Länge von ca 25km. Erkenntnis des Tages: Es wird gegessen, was auf der Speisekarte steht.Read more

    • Day 28

      Etappe 23 - La Laguna 2

      October 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      In La Laguna gegen 15 Uhr erschöpft, aber glücklich angekommen.
      Herberge wieder 10 Personen in einem Raum. Aus unserer gestrigen Auberge alle wiedergetroffen. Hier geht wahrscheinlich keiner verloren.
      Derzeit bin ich fast nur mit englisch sprechenden Pilgern zusammen. Muss ganz schön meine Englischkenntnisse ausgraben. Manchmal beginne ich schon in englisch zu denken, bzw. Selbstgespräche zu führen - seltsam!
      Bin hier völlig auf dem Lande - wie aus den Fotos ersichtlich.
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    • Day 30

      O'Cebriero

      April 21 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      Lucy, Maggie and I are sharing two adjoining bunks, and when we went to have showers, got to know each other very well indeed given there were no doors - school/pool spec. Surprisingly to Lucy and I, Maggie was the prude about this - she's since indignantly asked every pilgrim in town staying elsewhere if they have doors on their showers.

      I kneaded my laundry in the freezing water next to Fabrice, hung it out with pegs loaned by Lucy, and then went to get a wine, joined by them one by one and then stragglers until our table in the alley had three others attached to it and about 15 pilgrims around it.

      Bells pealing, Fabrice let me rummage around in his bag to borrow a jacket for the cold church and we all hustled up to mass, Lucy setting me off with the giggles a few times as our priest (a Patrick Dempsey lookalike) herded us through a half hour ceremony.

      It finished with a special pilgrim portion, where we all stood in a circle and he handed out pebbles with yellow arrows painted on. There was a prayer I can't remember, because someone from each language had to read it to the group. Lucy and I were the only native English speakers and she wasn't having a bar of it so I had to. Nervous, I spoke clearly and retained nothing except the last line: be happy - make others happy.

      After we went to dinner, and after they left I joined my Camino cousins, the Brazillians and Italians, at their table and had a grand old bilingual time. They're a big lot - I like them very much but they are too many to make a family out of so cousins it is.

      Lucy and I are currently shaking with laughter in our bottom bunks listening to Maggie huff and puff in French at the snorers. I am so scared for this to end. If I walk with them tomorrow it might be harder later. But is that reason not to?

      Why now. Why *now* am I finding these people, letting them find me? Another lesson, I'm sure. In Pamplona I think I needed to let the others pass and walk alone, I wonder if now, on the other end of the journey, it is the opposite. A test - can you leave this, can you appreciate something inherently temporary? Can you love and lose?
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    • Day 35

      Las Herrerias

      October 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

      Today we walked around 15 miles steadily uphill. It was very gradual and felt pretty flat! We walked alongside either a river or creek all day. Today’s walk was almost entirely on the side of the road. We stopped in two small churches. He we got stamps for our pilgrims, credential, and each of the churches, which is kind of unusual, because a lot of times there’s no stamp in churches. Beginning in Sarria in a few days, we have to be sure to get at least two stamps with dates per day to qualify for our Compostela, which is a certificate showing that we have completed the Camino. No rain today but it’s supposed to rain every day except one for the rest if the trip.

      We are in a little hostel right now that has cows right outside the window that have large bells on their collars that go donka donka donka!

      David’s back feels great as long as he doesn’t have to carry a backpack. My blister on my feet from my poorly fitting shoes is slowly disappearing. At this point in the walk, my legs and feet are very sore. I don’t think anything’s wrong, I think I’ve just walked almost 500 miles over the last month!

      We were sad to say goodbye to our friends, Lisa and Lisa, but they texted us that they made it up to the top of the mountain we are climbing tomorrow. In one of the little churches, we stopped into. We saw our friend Sandra from our first three or four days of the Camino! What a surprise to see her after all this time!
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    • Day 30

      Day 30

      September 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

      Have had a really enjoyable day.. who couldn’t have with such amazing views, scenery and company..
      Met back up with Robbie to walk up to O’Cebreiro this morning.. what a fabulous walk, really cold and clear skies to start with, but it warmed up quickly and I seriously didn’t notice how much we’d climbed as it went so quickly, poor Robbie’s ears must have been ringing😬.. in my defence, I’ve hardly spoken to anyone I know for 4 weeks 😂😂
      We literally just walked passed chatting, so many people struggling… I guess we’re both fitter than the average walker doing the Camino..
      There was a lovely church in O’Cebreiro that I lit a candle for Jack I and just sat in for 10 minutes ❤️
      My accommodation was a 10 minute drive outside of the village, so I had a number for Miguel, who had arranged my transport ..
      My meal this evening was seriously underwhelming, so I thought it only seemed right to have an extra glass ( they did give me a bottle) of the slightly less underwhelming red wine 🤪
      All a bit brief tonight, but I’m really tired looking forward to going to bed 🥱
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    Vega de Valcarce

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