Another try for photos walking to VianaSeptember 8 in Spain
OK, so the words went in seconds, so will have another shot at photos...
OK, so the words went in seconds, so will have another shot at photos...
Well that worked! So will try for another 3!
Today was meant to be less than 20 kms but of course it ended up being almost 22, but it was good as we weren’t doing the extra 10 kms into Logroño! We split the distance here last time, and tomorrow we saunter into Logroño - even if it ends up being 12km who cares! We did work hard though today. As usual it sounded fairly easy, with one serious climb, and it did start with beautifully even terrain through the still beautiful countryside. But then we did climb up and down to rivers, or river beds, past the usual hill towns, past olive groves and vineyards, and arrived here at about 2 o’clock.
We left Los Arcos at 8 am, having first stopped for fresh OJ in the square. The sun rises at 7.45 so the square was so different at sunrise than in the afternoon when we arrived - then full of tables and umbrellas and a buzz of walkers mostly relaxing after the trek and sheltering from the very bright sun. (This is the famous square where 5 years ago Amr bandaged the leg of the Rheinmaiden!!). It is blissfully cool in the early morning, about 13°, but as the sun gets higher it does get quite hot...my southern arm and leg (the left as we are heading west) are getting quite sunburnt...
So we had a good day’s walk - passing and repassing familiar people who are in the same rhythm as us. This keeps changing as people stay at different places, but sometimes the same people are around for a few days. And a babble of many languages - all good, great camaraderie, but as we walk people thin out as everyone goes at a different pace.
Viana is a lovely small town, and we have wonderful memories of the superb hotel we stayed in before (and the dinner!) which we are again at. My brain had totally forgotten the outskirts with modern apartment buildings, and the outer streets we had to walk through to get to the old centre, which is much as it was in the Middle Ages. Our hotel is in the one main street through the centre, and as we approached what a surprise! Something was afoot...there were explosions, which we later realized were fireworks, but we could hardly walk along the street - crazy crowds - we did realize it was Saturday, but this was something more than a normal weekend...Many people and their children wearing white shirts with red handkerchiefs round their necks like what you see in Pamplona for the running of the bulls...and this is what it is, Viana’s own festival - today is the day before celebrations- the actual running is thankfully tomorrow afternoon after we will have left (I think Amr is a little disappointed, but I am happy)! Actually, we would have a perfect view from our hotel window...As we arrived there was a parade, with huge effigies and a band, which was why we found we were going against the tide. Already along the street there are barriers up to protect windows etc from the bulls, except the many cafes and restaurants which will be open till tomorrow but the metal barriers are there ready to be put into place. The hotel tells us that tonight there are festivities and music that starts at 10.30 pm!! So it promises to be a noisy night, but what a fun weekend to be passing through! Dinner isn’t till 8.30 tonight either, so we will head out now and have some tapas to tide us over.
Just tried to publish but it wouldn’t upload...I thought it was strong WiFi but will take off all the photos and do them separately...I think they are really good, but will see if the words will go...Read more
May 2 & 3, Estella to Los Arcos to Viana:
John had discovered that the secret to Camino life is E-S-P: Just concentrate on Eat, Sleep, and Potty, and the walk is fine!
Yesterday a Japanese doctor and his wife stopped their BMW as we were crossing a road and asked to take our picture! So I guess we look like real pilgrims. He gave us his card and said to give him a ring if we ever come to Hiroshima.
We stopped at the wine fountain at Irache — yes, Jennifer, a fountain that dispenses wine instead of water! John had a taste with his pilgrim shell, just like they did 1000 years ago. Laurie finally found a good chocolate croissant. And we stayed in a dorm with 12 of our new best friends.
Still no rain, but today was cold and windy all day long. We’re tucked up in a room above a local bar, where we were served a typical menu of the day — 2 courses plus dessert, bread and wine or water, all for €11.5 each (about $14).
Rest day tomorrow — only 6 miles to Logroño.Read more
Day 4: Puenta La Reina, Estrella, Los Arcos, Viana
What an adventure! The Camino life is a simple life. We wake up, walk a few miles, grab coffee, walk some more, grab lunch, then walk into the town where we stay. Once we enter a town we find an alburgue, shower, do laundry, and relax and explore the town! On our second day, we met a wonderful Italian woman. Her name is Anita, and her oldest child is 56, so you can only guess her age! She has walked parts of the Camino for 8 years for a total of 2 Caminos. Many people choose to walk only a section of the Camino at a time, and return to where the left off until they finish. I continue to be amazed by all of the different nationalities. Yesterday we helped a Mexican and Turkish man with electrolytes, had dinner with women from California, Canada, New Zealand, and France, walked with a Puerto Rican, spoke with an Australian, had orange juice with a woman from Asia, shared tape with an Italian, had coffee with an German lady and of course many more! We don't all speak the same language, but we manage to communicate with a little bit of English, a small bit of Spanish, and a whole lot of hand gestures! The landscape is absolutely stunning. We are currently entering a part of Spain that is full of red clay. It makes for a beautiful hike, because we see red cliffs and many crops with red clay. My favorite parts of the journey are the little towns that we hike through each day because we always find something exciting. For example, yesterday we found one of the typical double wide doors slightly ajar. When we peaked in, we saw a giant pot which peaked our curiosity. We went inside the little courtyard area and looked up. Wow! We found a dome ceiling with beautiful designs. I will post a photo because I can't possibly describe the beauty. Inside was also a magnificent antique shop. It was unlike all American antique shops because the pieces were much older, and very exquisite. The owner spoke no English, but he told us (in Spanish, thanks to Profe!) that his pieces were 300-500 years old! We have decided not to worry about the number of miles we walk each day, and instead we are slowing to allow ourselves to take time enjoy the experience of Spanish culture. As we type this, we are sitting inside the "garden" of an incredible alburgue. Although advertised as a garden, it is not a garden at all! It's a beautiful roofless (the roof was destroyed in a Gothic war) stone church built in the 13th century. I will add a photo below. Don't worry Tom, we are also taking photos of the bread ovens!Read more
We gifted ourselves a short day of walking only 12 miles. We checked in to Albergue Izar then wandered around the town, exploring historical remains and lunching on strawberry and cream, tortilla and bocadillo queso.
Afterwards, Tom punctured my blisters (one on each pinky toe) and rested a bit before socializing, reading and acro yoga'ing on the patio of our Albergue. It was a nice surprise to find that Charlotte, a 25 year old from Brooklyn that we had chatted with at Suseia, was staying here and her mother, who she is traveling with. We had a communal meal, the vegetarian option came late but with a large salad and more spanish tortilla. We enjoyed dinner conservation, particularly with Lizette, from Sweden and an Australian guy who had walked the Camino 9 times.Read more
Given we are so slow this was where we made it today.
We woke up to much cooler weather - yea - and it stayed cloudy all the way here. We walked almost exclusively on earthen paths through farmland. We had a short day, just 10 miles, because the next place is Logrono, a huge city that takes almost 2 hours to walk through. We are staying at a municipal albergue that we stayed in last time, but I forgot there is only one women's toilet and one men's toilet for the 46 people staying here. Tomorrow I booked an albergue where Dennis gets his own room and Jerry and I get a double, we're all looking forward to that.Read more
Distance: 18.4 km, 11.4 mi
Another warm day hiking the Spanish countryside. Almost to the 1/5 mark.
Die Nacht ist mal wieder nicht so toll. Meistens bekomme ich in den Etagenbetten das obere Bett (heute übrigens wieder). Außerdem sind die Betten mir zu kurz und ich muss die Füße durch das Gestänge am Fußende stecken. Irgendwann werde ich mir aus Versehen ein Bein brechen. Wache regelmäßig mehrmals auf und schäle mich dann gegen 7:30 aus dem Schlafsack.
Die Holländer haben uns ein Lunchpaket für 3 Euro verkauft, so dass ich nur einen kleinen Kaffee runterstürze und Viertel nach 8 starte. Hab ja heute auch viel vor, ganze 31,5 Kilometer nach Viana, bis dato die längste Tagesetappe.
Bestes Wetter heute. Sonne mit ein paar Wolken, leichter Wind. Nach einer Stunde Frühstück im Feld, danach zweieinhalb Stunden Powerwalk nach Torres del Rio, wo ich mir den obligatorischen Milchkaffee mit Bocadillo genehmige. Es geht heute fast nur geradeaus auf Schotterpisten. Spiegelt ein wenig die Sinnlosigkeit des Lebens wider oder wie langsam man vorankommt, selbst wenn man das Ziel (nächste Stadt) bereits kilometerweit sieht. Ich freue mich wenn der Weg eine Kurve nimmt, die die einzige Abwechslung heute. Vielleicht wird es in meinem Leben auch Zeit für eine Kurve, eine Veränderung?
Heute sind so extrem wenige Pilger unterwegs, sehr verwunderlich. Entweder hab ich sie abgehängt oder sie sind mir entwischt. In den ersten Tagen habe ich ja niemanden vorbeiziehen lassen, außer wenn ich pausiert habe. Das ist zuletzt anders, gerade in den letzten Tagen hatte ich ein langsameres Tempo drauf. Der Powerwalk geht weiter bis nach Viana, wo Marco und Marie (deutsch) im Café sitzen. Ich bin schon stolz, die beiden verrückten Läufer sind nur 20 Minuten vor mir angekommen. Wollen aber noch weiter nach Logroño, 9 Kilometer. Ich lehne dankend ab, obwohl ich mich gut fühle. Man soll es nicht übertreiben. Heute kann ich stellenweise sogar schmerzfrei gehen, ein völlig ungewohntes Gefühl. Wahrscheinlich ist mein Schmerz-Toleranz-Niveau einfach angestiegen. In der Herberge neben der Kirchenruine von Viana treffe ich junge Leute von unterwegs, zwei israelische Mädels und einen in Deutschland lebenden Polen. Wundere mich dass sie schon da sind. Stellt sich raus, sie sind ein Stück getrampt! Wegen Blasen und Fieber. Meine Verachtung kennt trotzdem keine Grenzen...
Also, auf dem Camino verloren zu gehen ist fast unmöglich. Überall gelbe Pfeile, Muschelsymbole oder ähnliches. Und selbst wenn man mal vom Weg abkommt, sind da noch die anderen Pilger: "Hola! Señor..." Nicht mal in die Büsche oder auf die Bank schafft man es unbemerkt. Im Glauben kann man trotz bester Wegbeschreibung und anderen Mitpilgern trotzdem auch mal verloren gehen. Gebe Gott, dass ich für immer auf seinem Weg bleibe, bis ich ans Ziel komme.Read more
You might also know this place by the following names:
Viana, فيانا, Вијана, Вьяна, Віана, 比亚纳