Spain
Viscarret-Guerendiáin

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    • Day 8

      Day 4: Viskarret to Larrasoaña

      May 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

      Mileage: 10.5
      Elevation gain: 1,217
      Elevation loss: 2,152
      Weather: much warmer, but a lot of shade
      Total Mileage: 34.25
      Another beautiful day! I’m glad I had a room to myself last night as I’m sure I groaned every time I rolled over - still quite sore. I’m feeling stronger, though, and today’s 10+ was easier than yesterday’s 8.
      The first 2 miles ascended today, with more farmland and forest. The middle was more gentle, hill-wise. I stopped at a permanent food truck (“kioska”) around the top of the day’s hike for a sandwich, banana, and a coffee, which gave me a nice boost before a pretty grueling rocky descent. I stopped in the town of Zubiri for another snack and then walked the sunniest last miles to Larrasoaña.

      Since my start and stop points today are in between the guidebook stages, today was mostly solitary, which is excellent for contemplation, and also for pit stops! I do find that I’m talking to myself more; I’ve named my feet and talk to them, too. Hal has some issues but we’re working through it. My overwhelming emotion as I walk is gratitude that I am able to be here doing this amazing thing.

      1. Farmland to start
      2. Looking back over the hill I was climbing.
      3. Forest along the climb
      4. This rocky descent was tricky but I was VERY glad I wasn’t doing it in the rain. Those rocks would’ve been slick!
      5. My <cough> lunch in Zubiri. Amazing. That bun tasted even better than it looks.
      6. The track goes through an industrial area on and near a road after Zubiri.
      7. Looking back at another descent.
      8. The portion after the industrial area was really delightful. The shade was welcome.
      9. More farmland.
      10. My favorite part of the walk today.
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    • Day 3

      After Espinal

      July 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      The morning was nice and cool. It looked like it might rain, but it didn't. The walk went through some nice forests.

      At some point I caught up with Emmanuelle and Sebastien, and I got a chance to practise my French. Seb was walking faster, but Emma and I were going at the same pace, so I had a long chat with her, mostly in French.Read more

    • Day 3

      Zwischenstop

      August 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      After 11 KM and 2h of upndown-hill, we stopped here- and guess what, we only meet Italians plus Patrick from Liverpool, who supports Everton! It is sooo hot here! But Pilgrims are a big international family!Read more

    • Day 4

      Day 4: Viscarret

      September 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

      We set out from Roncesvalles in a light rain this morning, opting to walk a couple of kilometers before stopping for breakfast in Burguete.

      We pulled into the first open cafe we saw, ordering coffees, a slice of tortilla española, and a tortilla with tuna bocadillo (sandwich). Once was enough on the latter, for Allan.

      From Burguete we walked about another 10 kilometers to Viscarret, where we’d booked an apartment for the night. Swinging an early checkin with the cashier at a small market was a little rough, but we were thrilled with the accommodations once we got inside. I was so very ready to set down my backpack!

      Maybe it was the trekking up and down hills in the rain, or my expecting today to be an “easy” 12 kilometer walk, or simply that my body isn’t accustomed to three long walks in a row, but I was feeling some aches and pains.

      After the requisite hot showers, we loaded our dirty clothes into the washing machine in the kitchen, and set out for a bite at El Bar de Juan, the village’s sole eatery.

      As we arrived, the German family we’d roomed with at Orisson was just finishing their lunch. Following their recommendation, we enjoyed cups of vegetable soup and ham and cheese tortillas.

      After I finish this post, I’ll go downstairs to the little market to get something for dinner. Tomorrow we’ll walk 15 kilometers to Larrasaoña—and the forecast is for dry weather!
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    • Day 7

      Hola, buenos dias

      September 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Caught a beautiful sunrise at my first stay in an albergue (hostel) in Burgette.

      The Buen Camino guidebook has this to say about Burgette. "Keep your wits about you when walking through town as the Camino takes a sharp right turn halfway through. There are no less than twelve yellow arrows marking the turn, but it can still be overlooked by those admiring the charm of Burgette." And that was spot on as I would have walked straight passed it after standing right next to it taking a photo if two pelegrinos hadn't set the right example. I've photo bombed you with Burgette pictures again today.

      It was a very social evening being at a hostel and also today reconnecting with people as you walk and meeting new ones. While I didn't see Texas Jack today I heard a story about him as he becomes one of the Camino legends for this group of pilgrims. Many sensible pilgrims spend their first night at Orisson hostel half way up the mountain. Orisson has a Camino tradition of holding a pilgrims dinner then asking everyone to stand up, introduce themselves, and say why the are doing a Camino. Apparently Jack doesn't have a deep and meaningful reason for his pilgrimage, his goal that night was just to make it up the bloody hill. Cue the Texan accent and booming voice.

      I walked 9kms today and most of the people I've met powered away doing 20kms and I doubt I'll see them again. This is the manufactured modern Camino Frances experience. Everyone meets on the mountain or at Orisson and then powers on to Santiago as per the stages set out in the famous Brierley handbook, creating their Camino families along the journey. I've meet a Camino veteran, one of the two Christine's, and she also sticks to the stages but as some people in her group are slower they just catch a taxi if they get tired to keep with their mates who walk quicker. There are many ways to Camino.

      Tonight I have a room in a rural house. The walls are two foot thick, white washed and the timber floors and ceiling would have Darryn counting their value.

      I've had a bath, soaked my very sore and tired feet and have 13kms to do tomorrow including a mountain to climb and a steep decent out of the mountains. Apart from my feet, the rest of me is doing well. The feet will improve I hope.

      Thanks for coming on my Camino journey.
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    • Day 9

      Day 3-Viscarret

      September 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

      Since we had a short walk today (8.5 miles of gentle decent) we slept in and started walking at 10am. We brought part of our breakfast to snack on later because they gave us so much. For 5€, we each had two pieces of toast, a croissant, ham and cheese, yogurt, banana, coffee and freshly squeezed oj. I won't even tell you about the three course gluttony last night. I did say I was going to eat my way through Spain.

      Our walk today took us through an enchanted forest and a couple of cute towns (Burgete and Espinal). We saw a couple people we knew and met a lady from Vienna that made a stamp for pilgrims' credentials. I was the first to get a stamp from her. She said she was too embarrassed to tell anyone about it until now.

      We arrived in Viscarret hungry and stopped at Bar Juan, one of two restaurants in this hamlet. The ladies were quite dour and stonefaced but after I asked the elder what Patxaran tastes like, she started talking to us and brought us a complimentary shot. It's anise flavored but mild and mixed with some spices.

      Now we're just waiting for feeding time. It smells really good.
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    • Day 2

      Pyrene und Erron

      July 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Der Regen hat nachgelassen. Der Weg ist abwechselungsreich, mal kurze Aufstiege, dann durch den dunklen Wald auf weichem
      Boden und viele abschüssige Strecken auf Felsen oder Stein-imitierenden Beton. Das ist anstrengend für meine Füße, besonders die Ballen hinten. Ich probiere eine andere Belastung, einen wippenden Gang - und vorallem versuche ich, mich nicht über den harten Boden zu ärgern. Ich könnte mich doch drauf einlassen und meine Füße so setzen, dass sie mit den Unwidrigkeiten umgehen können - wie beim danse sensible (danke Pilar). Und plötzlich gibt es noch Unterstützung von zwei Elementarwesen: Pyrene und Erron - zwei Gnome, die eine unermüdliche Arbeit tun und meine Füße stärken und pflegen. Sie sagen, ich soll sie euch vorstellen: also großen Dank an euch beide - Pyrene und Erron.Read more

    • Day 7

      Day 3 End

      May 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

      I arrived in Viskarret just in time to check in to my guest house. I was glad to follow my instincts instead of Google, which for some reason wanted to send me down the street to the wrong place. I had my first full conversation in Spanish with my host, and I estimate that I understood 90% of what she said. She was nice about it! As you’ll see here, my private bedroom is lovely, and I’ll be the only one snoring! Not every night’s accommodation will be interesting enough to note, but I have to tell you about my culinary adventure.

      There isn’t much in this village and I don’t think the bar is open for dinner. The guest house has a kitchen with basic tools plus oil, vinegar, and salt. I walked down to the supermercado to find the door locked. A Californian woman found the owner and established that the store was indeed open and we were able to shop. I kind of thought the shop was about to close (this was unclear) so I hurried to make my choices.

      It felt like a Guy Fieri challenge! Time clock running, I couldn’t find a produce section or frozen veggies, no processed food (I didn’t feel like a frozen pizza), and anything I buy I need to be able to eat or carry with me, which eliminates seasonings. What would you cook?

      I grabbed a packet of spaghetti, a can of whole tomatoes, a can of beans, a jar of pepper strips, a bit of cheese, and a baguette and a yogurt for breakfast. The baguettes were in a basket, no little bags, so I then walked back to my guest house carrying a baguette. The cost was just over 10 euros.

      I cooked the spaghetti while I broke down and cooked the tomatoes and added salt plus the rest of the ingredients for a sauce. Only used half the beans and a small amount of the peppers, but hopefully someone can use the rest of the peppers. I can finish the cheese tomorrow. It wasn’t bad! was hungry, though, so most things would’ve tasted good.
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    • Day 25

      Regen, boekjes, knijpersss

      August 1, 2020 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      Jup, juist van dit stukje heb ik even geen route op de Garmin. Maar nadat ik net in een Spaans supermarktje boodschappen had gedaan, vond ik wasknijpers bij het uitverkooprek! Het ziet er niet heel charmant uit, maar m'n boekje blijft droog én leesbaar. Ohja, de knijpers hebben ook nog eens mooie kleurtjes ;)Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Viscarret-Guerendiáin, Viscarret-Guerendiain

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