Spain
Zamora

Discover travel destinations of travelers writing a travel journal on FindPenguins.
Travelers at this place
    • Day 6

      Visigothic marvel and El Cid church

      October 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Today we took a quick trip out of Zamora to visit San Pedro de la Nave. It’s a Visigothic church, moved piece by piece to escape being submerged by construction of a dam. I had been here once before —when the hospitalero in the Zamora albergue offered to drive me out (and I walked back) but this time it was car all the way. Just as beautiful as I remembered it. It’s always awe-inspiring to be in a building from the 7C.

      From there we went back to Zamora to two Romanesque churches right outside the cathedral walls. My favorite church in Zamora—Santiago de los Caballeros, where El Cid is reported to have spent the night in prayer before being knighted. It’s extremely simple and beautiful with capitals choc full of figures and pictoral lectures about sinning, which makes for some explicit capitals.

      Yesterday in the Zamora museum I had seen a capital recovered fromn the ruined Monasterio de Moreruela. I remembered the (luckily in tact) apse of the church as the most stunning I had ever seen. I walked there on my third (?) Vdlp from Granja de Moreruela, where today we stopped for a coffee right outside the albergue. On to the monastery in car. Joe enjoyed it a lot and I think he understands my addiction to walking Caminos a little better.

      On the way back to Zamora it occurred to me to stop in a town where Dana and I had stayed on my second Vdlp. We had had a great meal in Rosamari, where the owner had regaled us with stories about how hard it had been for two women to start a business in Franco years. Banks wouldn’t lend without the husband’s signature, etc. Today the restaurant is run by the third generation, and she assured me that her mom and grandma had taught her to be strong and independent. I was shocked that I was able to find a picture of one of the owners outside in 2010 and was happy to send it on to the current owner. The food is still excellent, btw! Joe had a cocido (too heavy for my taste, though I had a few bites), and I just had an ensalada mixta. I am very sad to report, though, that despite my very clear 2010 memory of the first salad since Cáceres without iceberg lettuce, even the Rosamari has succumbed!
      Read more

    • Day 35

      Day 35 - Montemarte - 20.2 km

      October 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      Weather report - cool with a couple of bits of light rain
      Clothes - short sleeved merino, light wind fleece, rain jacket and trekking pants.

      Well - what a difference a day makes. And I think the difference might be a combo of food and more people.
      So let’s back up a little. Last night’s pilgrim dinner was a delight in terms of companionship but maybe not so beneficial in terms of food. We didn’t eat until about 8 or even a bit later- pasta and salad. Now I have to say the pasta was fabulous, but ….
      I didn’t have a very happy day today. In fact this day has been the most distressing so far. And nothing bad really happened.
      I had a 7.15 am start and I got to my destination around 11.45 am. The road was basically flat and the weather was good with only occasional light rain. I was really impressed with my time. I stopped a few times as my foot did give me some pain. There were a couple of guys ahead of me and the young French man, Jerome, from a week ago, behind me.
      Seemingly all good.
      Then … I couldn’t find the albergue - and took another 30 mins, asking for directions, not really understanding them, and walking around in circles. I felt tears threaten. I thought Jerome would already be there, wondering what had happened to me.
      Eventually I tracked down the albergue and as I arrived I saw Jerome coming from the other direction. We had both got lost.
      Then within the next 30 mins another 4 or 5 others arrived, all male, all choosing this stopping point. I felt a bit shocked and quite unnerved. I hadn’t expected so many people. People showered, put on washing, one man went shopping and started cooking lunch, some lay down for a rest. And I didn’t know what to do with myself
      After a while I realised I needed food so I returned to my usual routine: find a bar, eat and have a glass of wine. As I walked to town over the bridge I just wanted to cry - and I did - a bit.
      I have really enjoyed my solo Camino experience. Now that there are more people around I notice I get side tracked by others. I forget my own needs and lose concentration on my own agenda.
      Last night I left one of my good pairs of socks behind. Aagghh. So now in the last few days it’s the tiny towel, scarf and socks all left behind.
      Maybe I am getting tired? Walking a Camino actually takes a lot of focus and concentration - working out where to stop next, checking on the weather, where to get food, how much food to carry, organising your stuff.
      I think now my practice needs to be - stay focused on me, on what I need and what I am doing, not on those around me.
      I am wondering if things will get busier, with more people. I hope not. I might become the anti social pilgrim.
      Anyway I have just finished lunch. I don’t really want to go back to the albergue so I will finish this blog, and then go back and stick my nose in my online book.
      And see what tomorrow brings.

      Buen Camino

      Evening update
      I didn’t have my giant Menu del Dia lunch today - they didn’t offer it at the cafe -so I only had one course. Then later in the afternoon I got really cold and angry and sad.
      I went to the shop but it was closed for siesta. Grrrrr. So I went later. For dinner I made pasta with tomato and tuna and had two delicious Spanish pears and some yogurt. I ate around 7 pm and now I am warm and feel pretty fine - relaxed and ready to wind down.
      It would seem that what I eat and when I eat is critical to my success. I can’t afford to let myself run on empty- particularly in a cold albergue with no heating.
      The other guys are just eating now at 8,00 pm - definitely too late for me.
      The other thing I noticed is that one of the guys seemed really loud, often on the phone and speaking in a loud voice to others. I think that was one of the things that got to me earlier.
      However all’s well that ends well.
      This was a psychologically difficult day.
      I think tomorrow will be better.

      PS.
      The weather forecast says it’s getting warmer.
      11 - 22 tomorrow with no wind warnings. 👏👏🥰🥰😀😀
      Read more

    • Day 4

      Drove to Zamora

      October 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      I love Zamora! I have walked into this city a bunch of times— it’s on both the VDLP/Sanabres and the Levante. When I looked at the map and saw how close it is to Braganca, I was sold. It’s fun showing Joe all my favorite spots and it is one of my two favorite small Spanish cities, with the other being Soria.

      By 2 we were checked in, and the nice guy at the desk parked the car in the impossibly small spot in the impossibly narrow garage. I tried backing into the spot myself but after many attempts with him looking on I asked him if he was in a hurry because this could take a while. He told me he would be at the parador till his 65th birthday so there was no rush but he would be happy to park it for me. 😀

      Joe was ready for a nap so I got to take myself to many favorite spots. First of all, get down to the 13C pedestrian bridge and cross it. Then turn around and remember how iawesome walking in feels.

      I spent several hours just walking around and got a bunch of tourist info to plan our next two days. So much to do! When Joe got up, we went to the castle, went to La Magdalena, and then spent some time walking with a beautiful view of the Duero snd the pedestrian bridge. We are now sitting in a cafe in the Plaza Mayor and trying to decide if we even want a few tapas before bed. Our stomachs still remember last night’s foodie extravaganza and are not calling for us to eat.
      Read more

    • Day 5

      In Zamora

      October 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      Joe slept in so we had a late breakfast, but we had a good three hour window to walk and tour before everything closed down for lunch. I have to say Joe’s schedule is not particularly well-suited to the Spanish rhythm, but today I was able to cajole him into a nap during the 2-5 siesta period.

      In the morning, we went first to the 10C aceñas/molinos, which were in use for 8 centuries.. These are particularly unusual,, we were told, because there are four in a row, which enabled quick changes in function and heightened efficiency. From there, we walked along the river to the Diocesan museum (inside a romanesque church), and then to a particularly beautiful Santa Maria de Huerta, and then the Zamora Museum, which is small but has some beautiful pieces going back to Celtiberian days and earlier. And CR of course we had to walk over the river on the Puente de Piedra so Joe could see the view!

      While Joe napped, I did a reconnaisance all over town to pick out which churches should be top on our list, since we are obviously not going to visit the insides of all 20-something of them. At each church I tried to focus on one particular exterior feature to help me distinguish these beauties one from the other. Lots of capitals I could recognize (Adam and Eve, Slaughter of the Innocents, Daniel) but many I couldn’t. And then at 5, I pushed Joe out of bed and we went on a short circle walk to see three standouts.

      We will have tapas again tonight. Whenever Alan or Sabine recommend a place, you can be sure it’s going to be a keeper !
      Read more

    • Day 5

      Cafe Viriato

      October 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

      Alan, this place deserves a shout-out. Great tapas and, as you said, excellent house wine. I told the waitress that we had been sent here by a friend who walked the Vdlp, and and she told me — “cuando vuelva, esta invitado. Y dígale que ha mandado a buena gente.” We love this place. My favorites were the morcilla with manzana and the bacalao with a mejillón plopped on top.Read more

    • Day 72

      ZAMORA

      March 20 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Wir fahren früh morgens nach der Ver und Entsorgung Richtung Zamora Stadt, es dauert 20 Minuten und wir kommen beim Carrefour Parkplatz an. Ursprünglich wollten wir Wäsche waschen aber die Wäscherei ist im Gebäude drinnen und das ist mit der Wäsche etwas umständlich. Wir gehen beim Carrefour wieder einen Großeinkauf machen um danach nach Zamora Stadt zu fahren.
      Direkt in der Stadt gibt es einen sehr schönen Stellplatz, welchen die Gemeinde für fast 40 Autos zur Verfügung stellt. Wir sind einer der letzten freien Parkplätze und verweilen dort während wir die schöne Stadt besichtigen. Das Hauptziel des Tages war, das vorhandene Paket für Amazon , die Rücksendung der Retourfahrkamera, auf einer der Rückgabestationen zu deponieren. Die erste Abgabestation war nicht auffindbar, da diese bereits aufgelassen war aber die zweite avisierte Abgabestelle, ein großes Papierwarengeschäft, übernimmt problemlos das Paket.
      Danach gehen wir noch etwas in der Stadt spazieren, leider schließen alle Kirchen und Sehenswürdigkeiten mittags und somit bleibt beim Gebäude besichtigen.
      Gemeinsam essen wir noch eine Kleinigkeit bevor wir den Stellplatz gegen 16 Uhr verlassen um uns etwas außerhalb der Stadt in Ricobayo einen schönen Übernachtungsplatz direkt am See zu suchen. Dort genießen wir die Abendstimmung bei einem Gläschen Whisky.
      Read more

    • Zamora und Nationalpark Lagunas de Villa

      October 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      Zwei Tage in León sind genug, deshalb ziehe ich heute weiter nach Süden. Mein Ziel ist Zamora, aber nicht direkt. Ich steuere vorher den Nationalpark Lagunas de Villafáfila an. Schon auf der Karte kann man die Seen erkennen um die es hier geht. Das besondere an diesem Gebiet ist das Wasser und die Fauna, insbesondere verschiedenste Vogelarten, wie Gänse, Enten, diverse Raubvögel, Störche usw. Zum Teil machen sie hier Rast auf ihrem Zug nach Norden oder Süden, andere überwintern hier. Als ich hier ankomme sind nur wenige Besucher dort und der Ranger nimmt sich etwas Zeit mir den park zu erklären.
      Auf Grund der großen Trockenheit in diesem Jahr sind hier einige der Seen komplett ausgetrocknet. Ich mache eine große Runde durch den Park in dem es einige Observatorien gibt, von denen ich die Vögel beobachten kann. Ich nehme mir Zeit für den Park, genieße die Sonne die heute wieder kräftig scheint. Nur die Fliegen und Mücken, die ebenso das Wasser mögen werden mir langsam lästig. Nach zwei Stunden verlasse ich den Park.
      Nach Zamora sind es ca. 50 Kilometer durch komplette Einöde in der vorwiegend Ackerbau (über riesige Flächen) und Viehzucht auf trockenem Boden betrieben wird. Ich sehe viele der für diese Gegend typischen Taubenschläge, mal total zerfallen, manchmal ganz neu. Zamora soll für mich eigentlich nur ein Zwischenstopp auf dem Weg nach Salamanca sein. Aber mir gefällt es hier so gut, dass ich noch einen weiteren Tag bleibe. Die Stadt mit ihrer Burg überrascht mich. Die Stadt ist tiptop in Schuss, Gastronomie ist zahlreich vorhanden. An Tagen wie diesen, heute sind 25 °C, genieße ich die Zeit vor einem der Restaurant, genieße leckere Tapas und erfreue mich der Live Musik. ¡Que bonito!

      Und damit ich mich zukünftig noch besser in Spanien verständigen kann, buche ich heute einen zweiwöchigen Sprachkurs in Nerja. Das war für mich ohnehin ein to-do für diese Reise. Meine Eltern kommen nach Faro, wo ich sie in einigen Wochen treffen werden. Linda kommt mit den Kindern Ende Oktober nach Málaga. Sieht so aus, als hätte mein Einsiedlerleben langsam ein Ende und meine Resozialisierung einen Anfang. Schön!
      Read more

    • Day 46

      Zamora

      October 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Das Städtchen lässt uns Bummeln und das erste spanische Frühstück, Café Con leche ☕☕ Toast "Queso de Cobra (Ziegenkäse & und Schinken) und Sandwich"Mixto Huevo" (Käse, Kartoffel, Spiegelei). Sehr schmackhaft und der Kaffee super gut. Ein wenig shoppen und die Altstadt beschauen, hier gibt es wieder viel Kultur 🕍 zu sehen.Read more

    • Day 29

      Zamora

      October 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      After our fabulous wine tasting we got back on the bus and headed for the town of Zamora. Zamora is situated in Castile and Leon and has the highest concentration of Romanesque art and architecture in Europe. It is, therefore, referred to as the city of Romanesque. There are 14 Romanesque churches in the old town, a large Cathedral, a castle, medieval ramparts, a Roman bridge and two palaces.

      Through the province of Zamora passes the via de la plata (silver way), an old Roman route that connects Seville to Gijón and has traditionally been used as a southern route of the Way of St. James by pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela. This route is growing in popularity.

      We walked into town by crossing a pedestrian bridge over the Duero river. Zamora is a beautiful town that is extremely clean and well maintained. We walked up through the narrow streets to the Plaza Mayor de Zamora. The town was full of people taking advantage of the public holiday. We found a place in the shade to have a cold drink and rest for a bit before exploring the city. Some of us also had an ice-cream as it was the perfect weather for it.

      We then walked through the town taking in all the sites. We went back down to the river where we could see the Roman Water Mill up close. It was a lovely afternoon, although a tad too warm for me. The bus picked us about about 5pm and we then had an hours drive to Fermoselle, our home for the next 3 nights.
      Read more

    • Day 37

      Richtung Süden

      September 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

      Bevor wir Galizien verlassen, besichtigen wir einen Dolmen, baden nochmals ausgiebig bei den Dünen von Corrubedo und bestaunen in Padrón die Säule an der das Boot mit dem Leichnam Jakobs festgemacht wurde, nachdem es von Engeln geleitet den weiten Weg von Palästina an die galizische Küste zurücklegte. Weiter geht die Fahrt an Santiago de Compostela vorbei nach Puebla de Sanabria. Leider hat dort der Campingplatz bereits geschlossen und so düsen wir weiter nach Zamora. Hier finden wir ein Plätzchen auf dem kostenlosen Stellplatz, gehen noch in die Bar an der Ecke und beschließen den Tag.Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Zamora

    Join us:

    FindPenguins for iOSFindPenguins for Android