Spain
Zamora

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    • Day 16

      Day Sixteen: Eight Hours of Carpooling

      March 31 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

      Today was the dreaded 8-hour carpool ride to Madrid. And we slept in a little, but we didn't have time to do anything before he picked us up. He made us walk 30 minutes to a pick-up location and even kinda forced us to come early. It was normal Ford focus, and there were 5 of us. So, the middle seat! Me and Ethan ended up splitting being the middle, but man, it killed my ass. It was worse than the flight over! When we finally got there, they even dropped us off 30-minute walk away. But that's OK, it's a beautiful city and fun just to walk around, a much needed walk after sitting for so long. There seemed to be a lot of large historical buildings too. We walked past the largest parliament? Building I have ever seen, too. Check-in was easy, and the beds seemed nice enough. The pillows were strange, though; they were super narrow and very long. There were two of them, so one was a nice cuddle pillow. But before the night we really needed something to eat. But everything was so expensive and full. We kept going somewhere and it was too full or too expensive. Finally said screw it and ended at one. It seemed seemed expensive at first, so we decided to split one order of ribs, and it turns out the dish was huge and delicious! For the night, we came to the conclusion that every new hostel we go to we should start with some event to meet the people there. So we did the pub crawl. And it started with free sangria! Anything free always tastes better. There were probably about 10 people for it, and they were all really nice! Going out, we ended up mostly hanging with this guy named Tom from America, someone from Britain, a guy from Greece, and a lady from Ukraine (who is living there now). Turns out she has to go to a shelter every night to sleep, and they can see the missiles in the sky, too. It's some really scary stuff. But it was one of the best nights. We ended up going to 4 or 5 bars finishing the night at a nightclub. And multiple times, we thought we were at the nightclub, but we weren't. The bars are so insane and fun here. Me and Ethan even used his jacket for limbo, and everyone loved it! It was one of the best nights so far. Everyone was super friendly, and the bars were so fun! I have now found out that I enjoy dancing! It was so fun that it turned into a very late night. Everything is open crazy late. The party culture is so much different, but the people are so easy-going, and I'm never worried. But I have still been smart enough to get home safe :)Read more

    • Day 35

      Day 35 - Montemarte - 20.2 km

      October 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      Weather report - cool with a couple of bits of light rain
      Clothes - short sleeved merino, light wind fleece, rain jacket and trekking pants.

      Well - what a difference a day makes. And I think the difference might be a combo of food and more people.
      So let’s back up a little. Last night’s pilgrim dinner was a delight in terms of companionship but maybe not so beneficial in terms of food. We didn’t eat until about 8 or even a bit later- pasta and salad. Now I have to say the pasta was fabulous, but ….
      I didn’t have a very happy day today. In fact this day has been the most distressing so far. And nothing bad really happened.
      I had a 7.15 am start and I got to my destination around 11.45 am. The road was basically flat and the weather was good with only occasional light rain. I was really impressed with my time. I stopped a few times as my foot did give me some pain. There were a couple of guys ahead of me and the young French man, Jerome, from a week ago, behind me.
      Seemingly all good.
      Then … I couldn’t find the albergue - and took another 30 mins, asking for directions, not really understanding them, and walking around in circles. I felt tears threaten. I thought Jerome would already be there, wondering what had happened to me.
      Eventually I tracked down the albergue and as I arrived I saw Jerome coming from the other direction. We had both got lost.
      Then within the next 30 mins another 4 or 5 others arrived, all male, all choosing this stopping point. I felt a bit shocked and quite unnerved. I hadn’t expected so many people. People showered, put on washing, one man went shopping and started cooking lunch, some lay down for a rest. And I didn’t know what to do with myself
      After a while I realised I needed food so I returned to my usual routine: find a bar, eat and have a glass of wine. As I walked to town over the bridge I just wanted to cry - and I did - a bit.
      I have really enjoyed my solo Camino experience. Now that there are more people around I notice I get side tracked by others. I forget my own needs and lose concentration on my own agenda.
      Last night I left one of my good pairs of socks behind. Aagghh. So now in the last few days it’s the tiny towel, scarf and socks all left behind.
      Maybe I am getting tired? Walking a Camino actually takes a lot of focus and concentration - working out where to stop next, checking on the weather, where to get food, how much food to carry, organising your stuff.
      I think now my practice needs to be - stay focused on me, on what I need and what I am doing, not on those around me.
      I am wondering if things will get busier, with more people. I hope not. I might become the anti social pilgrim.
      Anyway I have just finished lunch. I don’t really want to go back to the albergue so I will finish this blog, and then go back and stick my nose in my online book.
      And see what tomorrow brings.

      Buen Camino

      Evening update
      I didn’t have my giant Menu del Dia lunch today - they didn’t offer it at the cafe -so I only had one course. Then later in the afternoon I got really cold and angry and sad.
      I went to the shop but it was closed for siesta. Grrrrr. So I went later. For dinner I made pasta with tomato and tuna and had two delicious Spanish pears and some yogurt. I ate around 7 pm and now I am warm and feel pretty fine - relaxed and ready to wind down.
      It would seem that what I eat and when I eat is critical to my success. I can’t afford to let myself run on empty- particularly in a cold albergue with no heating.
      The other guys are just eating now at 8,00 pm - definitely too late for me.
      The other thing I noticed is that one of the guys seemed really loud, often on the phone and speaking in a loud voice to others. I think that was one of the things that got to me earlier.
      However all’s well that ends well.
      This was a psychologically difficult day.
      I think tomorrow will be better.

      PS.
      The weather forecast says it’s getting warmer.
      11 - 22 tomorrow with no wind warnings. 👏👏🥰🥰😀😀
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    • Day 4

      Drove to Zamora

      October 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      I love Zamora! I have walked into this city a bunch of times— it’s on both the VDLP/Sanabres and the Levante. When I looked at the map and saw how close it is to Braganca, I was sold. It’s fun showing Joe all my favorite spots and it is one of my two favorite small Spanish cities, with the other being Soria.

      By 2 we were checked in, and the nice guy at the desk parked the car in the impossibly small spot in the impossibly narrow garage. I tried backing into the spot myself but after many attempts with him looking on I asked him if he was in a hurry because this could take a while. He told me he would be at the parador till his 65th birthday so there was no rush but he would be happy to park it for me. 😀

      Joe was ready for a nap so I got to take myself to many favorite spots. First of all, get down to the 13C pedestrian bridge and cross it. Then turn around and remember how iawesome walking in feels.

      I spent several hours just walking around and got a bunch of tourist info to plan our next two days. So much to do! When Joe got up, we went to the castle, went to La Magdalena, and then spent some time walking with a beautiful view of the Duero snd the pedestrian bridge. We are now sitting in a cafe in the Plaza Mayor and trying to decide if we even want a few tapas before bed. Our stomachs still remember last night’s foodie extravaganza and are not calling for us to eat.
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    • Day 5

      In Zamora

      October 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      Joe slept in so we had a late breakfast, but we had a good three hour window to walk and tour before everything closed down for lunch. I have to say Joe’s schedule is not particularly well-suited to the Spanish rhythm, but today I was able to cajole him into a nap during the 2-5 siesta period.

      In the morning, we went first to the 10C aceñas/molinos, which were in use for 8 centuries.. These are particularly unusual,, we were told, because there are four in a row, which enabled quick changes in function and heightened efficiency. From there, we walked along the river to the Diocesan museum (inside a romanesque church), and then to a particularly beautiful Santa Maria de Huerta, and then the Zamora Museum, which is small but has some beautiful pieces going back to Celtiberian days and earlier. And CR of course we had to walk over the river on the Puente de Piedra so Joe could see the view!

      While Joe napped, I did a reconnaisance all over town to pick out which churches should be top on our list, since we are obviously not going to visit the insides of all 20-something of them. At each church I tried to focus on one particular exterior feature to help me distinguish these beauties one from the other. Lots of capitals I could recognize (Adam and Eve, Slaughter of the Innocents, Daniel) but many I couldn’t. And then at 5, I pushed Joe out of bed and we went on a short circle walk to see three standouts.

      We will have tapas again tonight. Whenever Alan or Sabine recommend a place, you can be sure it’s going to be a keeper !
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    • Day 5

      Cafe Viriato

      October 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

      Alan, this place deserves a shout-out. Great tapas and, as you said, excellent house wine. I told the waitress that we had been sent here by a friend who walked the Vdlp, and and she told me — “cuando vuelva, esta invitado. Y dígale que ha mandado a buena gente.” We love this place. My favorites were the morcilla with manzana and the bacalao with a mejillón plopped on top.Read more

    • Day 6

      Visigothic marvel and El Cid church

      October 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Today we took a quick trip out of Zamora to visit San Pedro de la Nave. It’s a Visigothic church, moved piece by piece to escape being submerged by construction of a dam. I had been here once before —when the hospitalero in the Zamora albergue offered to drive me out (and I walked back) but this time it was car all the way. Just as beautiful as I remembered it. It’s always awe-inspiring to be in a building from the 7C.

      From there we went back to Zamora to two Romanesque churches right outside the cathedral walls. My favorite church in Zamora—Santiago de los Caballeros, where El Cid is reported to have spent the night in prayer before being knighted. It’s extremely simple and beautiful with capitals choc full of figures and pictoral lectures about sinning, which makes for some explicit capitals.

      Yesterday in the Zamora museum I had seen a capital recovered fromn the ruined Monasterio de Moreruela. I remembered the (luckily in tact) apse of the church as the most stunning I had ever seen. I walked there on my third (?) Vdlp from Granja de Moreruela, where today we stopped for a coffee right outside the albergue. On to the monastery in car. Joe enjoyed it a lot and I think he understands my addiction to walking Caminos a little better.

      On the way back to Zamora it occurred to me to stop in a town where Dana and I had stayed on my second Vdlp. We had had a great meal in Rosamari, where the owner had regaled us with stories about how hard it had been for two women to start a business in Franco years. Banks wouldn’t lend without the husband’s signature, etc. Today the restaurant is run by the third generation, and she assured me that her mom and grandma had taught her to be strong and independent. I was shocked that I was able to find a picture of one of the owners outside in 2010 and was happy to send it on to the current owner. The food is still excellent, btw! Joe had a cocido (too heavy for my taste, though I had a few bites), and I just had an ensalada mixta. I am very sad to report, though, that despite my very clear 2010 memory of the first salad since Cáceres without iceberg lettuce, even the Rosamari has succumbed!
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    • Day 72

      ZAMORA

      March 20 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Wir fahren früh morgens nach der Ver und Entsorgung Richtung Zamora Stadt, es dauert 20 Minuten und wir kommen beim Carrefour Parkplatz an. Ursprünglich wollten wir Wäsche waschen aber die Wäscherei ist im Gebäude drinnen und das ist mit der Wäsche etwas umständlich. Wir gehen beim Carrefour wieder einen Großeinkauf machen um danach nach Zamora Stadt zu fahren.
      Direkt in der Stadt gibt es einen sehr schönen Stellplatz, welchen die Gemeinde für fast 40 Autos zur Verfügung stellt. Wir sind einer der letzten freien Parkplätze und verweilen dort während wir die schöne Stadt besichtigen. Das Hauptziel des Tages war, das vorhandene Paket für Amazon , die Rücksendung der Retourfahrkamera, auf einer der Rückgabestationen zu deponieren. Die erste Abgabestation war nicht auffindbar, da diese bereits aufgelassen war aber die zweite avisierte Abgabestelle, ein großes Papierwarengeschäft, übernimmt problemlos das Paket.
      Danach gehen wir noch etwas in der Stadt spazieren, leider schließen alle Kirchen und Sehenswürdigkeiten mittags und somit bleibt beim Gebäude besichtigen.
      Gemeinsam essen wir noch eine Kleinigkeit bevor wir den Stellplatz gegen 16 Uhr verlassen um uns etwas außerhalb der Stadt in Ricobayo einen schönen Übernachtungsplatz direkt am See zu suchen. Dort genießen wir die Abendstimmung bei einem Gläschen Whisky.
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    • Zamora und Nationalpark Lagunas de Villa

      October 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      Zwei Tage in León sind genug, deshalb ziehe ich heute weiter nach Süden. Mein Ziel ist Zamora, aber nicht direkt. Ich steuere vorher den Nationalpark Lagunas de Villafáfila an. Schon auf der Karte kann man die Seen erkennen um die es hier geht. Das besondere an diesem Gebiet ist das Wasser und die Fauna, insbesondere verschiedenste Vogelarten, wie Gänse, Enten, diverse Raubvögel, Störche usw. Zum Teil machen sie hier Rast auf ihrem Zug nach Norden oder Süden, andere überwintern hier. Als ich hier ankomme sind nur wenige Besucher dort und der Ranger nimmt sich etwas Zeit mir den park zu erklären.
      Auf Grund der großen Trockenheit in diesem Jahr sind hier einige der Seen komplett ausgetrocknet. Ich mache eine große Runde durch den Park in dem es einige Observatorien gibt, von denen ich die Vögel beobachten kann. Ich nehme mir Zeit für den Park, genieße die Sonne die heute wieder kräftig scheint. Nur die Fliegen und Mücken, die ebenso das Wasser mögen werden mir langsam lästig. Nach zwei Stunden verlasse ich den Park.
      Nach Zamora sind es ca. 50 Kilometer durch komplette Einöde in der vorwiegend Ackerbau (über riesige Flächen) und Viehzucht auf trockenem Boden betrieben wird. Ich sehe viele der für diese Gegend typischen Taubenschläge, mal total zerfallen, manchmal ganz neu. Zamora soll für mich eigentlich nur ein Zwischenstopp auf dem Weg nach Salamanca sein. Aber mir gefällt es hier so gut, dass ich noch einen weiteren Tag bleibe. Die Stadt mit ihrer Burg überrascht mich. Die Stadt ist tiptop in Schuss, Gastronomie ist zahlreich vorhanden. An Tagen wie diesen, heute sind 25 °C, genieße ich die Zeit vor einem der Restaurant, genieße leckere Tapas und erfreue mich der Live Musik. ¡Que bonito!

      Und damit ich mich zukünftig noch besser in Spanien verständigen kann, buche ich heute einen zweiwöchigen Sprachkurs in Nerja. Das war für mich ohnehin ein to-do für diese Reise. Meine Eltern kommen nach Faro, wo ich sie in einigen Wochen treffen werden. Linda kommt mit den Kindern Ende Oktober nach Málaga. Sieht so aus, als hätte mein Einsiedlerleben langsam ein Ende und meine Resozialisierung einen Anfang. Schön!
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    • Day 9

      Laguna Villafáfila & Carrascal

      October 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Petit déjeuner basique mais très chouette discussion avec les english. Ils suivent à la trace les merles à plastrons, équipées il y a 5 ans de balises GPS. Je reprends la route vers la Laguna Villafafila. Super spot ornitho pour les oiseaux des steppes. Busards, milans, bruants proyers et la star des lieux : outarde barbue (observées très loin). Quelques chouettes photos. Je poursuis ma route vers Carrascal, pour un autre spot (falaise sur le bord du Douro). Je rencontre un local qui m’indique où voir le Grand-Duc. Je décide d’y passer ma première nuit en hamac avec le tarp (pluie oblige). Pas déçu : spotté et entendu toute la nuit.

      Espèces observées : vautour moine, grand-duc, loriot (entendu au matin), outarde barbue…
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    • Day 27

      Zamora

      January 24, 2020 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

      What a pleasant surprise Old Town Zamora is! Only stayed the one night with a wander around the cobbled streets in the dark and then into a Tapas restaurant 🥙 for evening dinner. Made a mental note to return here for a couple of days.Read more

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