Zumaia

I felt cold last night but I was sweating. My legs were weak. I was nauseous but not sick. I feared I was going to be stuck in the super chic San Sebastian while looking like a tramp and not having the energy to converse. I hardly slept a wink. I don't know how but thankfully I had the energy to pack my stuff, dress in my still damp clothes and head out into the dark morning. And walking alone, at my pace, was the perfect medicine. Predawn San Sebastian was beautiful and empty.

I did soon meet another pilgrim though. I don't know where Dominic learned his English but every other word was swearing. We caught up with a Cordoban after a short while but Dominic takes no prisoners when it comes to walking so it was just the two of us after a few kilometres. Not a bad thing because I think the Spanish chap was struggling with either Dominic's heavy French accent or his liberal sprinkling of swear words. Dominic is a freelance photographer from Annecy who has walked all over the world (including six years in India) and is full of anecdotes but also very inclusive when he's talking. I wished he was English so that we could have talked for longer. I think I had exhausted his will to converse in English when we met with a couple of French pilgrims and so I left the three of them.

The day was getting better. I wasn't feeling feverish now, I'd met and left Dominic, and now I was free to enjoy the Basque coast alone. It's like Devon and Cornwall without caravans but, perhaps, with more rain. Every turn in the path reveals a photoworthy view and each town proudly promotes the Basque (Euskara) culture. And the Basques are proud! When I checked in today, I thought the lady had written the date incorrectly, the 23rd instead of the 22nd. She told me 23 is the year and it goes at the front because that is the Basque way, English and Spanish do it their way. I wasn't going to argue. I have to have a witness sign my pilgrim pass each day. She signed in green and red on a white background, these being the colours of the Basque flag, and made sure I was aware of the significance!

Photos - my view tonight, a Basque language sign for 763km to go, it's so hilly here the streets have escalators, San Sebastian this morning.Read more