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Spain

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    • Day 4

      Day 2 - Burguete to Larrasoana

      Yesterday in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

      Burguete to Espinal to Biskarret to Zubiri to Larrasoano. Today was a day of “rolling” hills - and more rain. Calling these hills rolling is like calling a house “quaint.” It requires a lot of work. While not as steep, the paths we climbed up and down were pure rock - smooth rock sheets, rocks jutting out of the ground in long lines, and small chunks of- with fun mud and water puddles in between. Made for some slow and careful stepping! And a few times we had no choice but to wade ankle deep through water and/or mud. But the fog was mostly gone so we could see the countryside, which was beautiful, and we went through a handful of cute towns. All of the houses in these little towns are beautiful, old and perfectly maintained. Lots of horses and sheep, and since they roam free, lots of their poop to step around in a few spots. Stopped for breakfast after 4 miles and had my first tortilla de patates, a Spanish omelet/quiche with potatoes and onions - really delicious. Had a nice communal dinner at my albergue, and was given a nice little speech about what I’ll learn on the Camino by the owner of a grocery store I went to for road snacks tomorrow. How to live in the moment, that “stuff” isn’t necessary and whatever lesson my heart wants me to learn. He then gave me a bar of chocolate, so he’s my favorite person on this trip.

      Pictures in order: church with these funky trees seen everywhere; standard house door with thistles for protection and good luck; the Pyrenees in the distance; one of several pedestrian bridges I crossed; tortilla de patates and cafe con leche; one of the less rocky paths climbed; spring mountain flowers; part of the Puente de rabias bridge into Zubiri (legend says you walk your animals across 3x to protect them from rabies); the elevation maps for yesterday and today; mural in my albergue showing I’ll walk through 138 towns/cities on the Camino, excluding all the little hamlets. Accidentally stopped vs paused my tracker when I took a lunch break, but 2/3rds of the route I walked today
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    • Day 34

      On The Road to Muxia.

      Yesterday in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      I never feel as if my camino is finished, until I get to Muxia. The number of pilgrims here is low, and it is easy to get an albergue. The scenery in these Galacian hills is also very nice. I am in a refurbished priest house next to an old church tonight. Very nice inside. Anyway a few pics from today.Read more

    • Day 8

      Afternoon in Ronda

      Yesterday in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      One of the real advantages of having a relatively short day into a very nice place is that the afternoon is just there waiting for you to explore. Since we were both in our hotel rooms by a little after one, we met for lunch at two.

      After lunch, we walked down to the Moorish baths, which my Wikiloc guide (Island Walker) tells us are repurposed Roman baths. They are well preserved and very atmospheric. From the bottom, where the baths are, we had to go back up to the top, over to the other side, and then down, to get to the newly opened path down to the bottom of the Puente Nuevo. This is a very safe and easy to navigate path, which they call the Desfiladero (gorge). There is another phase planned, so stay tuned.

      I went to the church of Santa Maria La Mayor, got a stamp in my credencial, and walked up onto the roof. Good views. Clare had already been up there, so she waited down below and had a beer. Time for bed for this Peregrina!
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    • Day 15

      Day 7 - Caminha to Oia

      Yesterday in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

      I think we were smuggled into Spain today……

      Getting up and going today was hard. Probably because we were all unusually sound asleep when the alarm went off. The thought of walking all day had lost its appeal. But today was not a day to dawdle as we had paid ahead for breakfast at the Albergue and a taxi to the river to catch a boat for Spain.

      Well breakfast was great and then the taxi showed up as promised. Four of us were loaded in and then sped away through the streets of Caminha like we were in a 007 movie. We held on for dear life and were then dumped off at an obscure place on the river where three guys were waiting for us and yelling 6€! 6€! We had our money ready, threw it at guy #1, was loaded into the boat by guy #2 and guy #3 threw us each a life jacket and just said “policia” which we understood that he was only giving us a life jacket because it was the law. It was a crazy 15 minute boat ride across a choppy river with water slashing in the boat the whole way. We laughed until we cried 😂
      The driver pulled up on the opposite shore (no dock) and we jumped out, he waved, and backed away and off he went. We were now standing on the shore of Spain with zero direction where to go. Again we laughed until we cried 😂

      This was the beginning of the best day ever. Perfect weather (again), perfect views, great second breakfast stop, fun conversations with other pilgrims, another amazing Albergue with free washer AND DRYER (so no handwashing today!!)

      I don’t want to jinx it but this may be the best Camino day EVER. ❤️
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    • Day 8

      Oia to Baiona

      April 15 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

      We spent last night in Casa Puertas which is a B&B in Oia. We needed the rest and the care- the family that runs this Inn is so kind and helpful. We had a huge breakfast with fresh eggs from their hens and it was just what we needed to get the day going. They also served fresh squeezed OJ and this was the first time we experienced what we would see at several stops during this day….If you order orange juice at the cafés they will break out their juicer and proceed to make some juice- so fresh! These are Spanish Valencia oranges we were proudly told. They are believed to be the sweetest and the best for juicing. We girls smiled thinking about growing up back in Florida at 10 Valencia Road and we had orange trees too! Once breakfast was over we headed out back on our journey- saying goodbye to Oia is difficult because it’s such a sweet little place with such history and beauty and such a lovely place for weary pilgrims to recover. A sign I saw on the road said it all: “Good Way, Good Life! Bo Camina, Buena Vida!” I really felt they were sending us off to continue our pilgrimage but also to have a good life. Kind people inspire others! In Mougas we passed a rock pile made up of stones and memorabilia that pilgrims left behind. It was a good place for us sisters to leave a symbolic momento to add to the collection and also to lessen the weight in our bags. After a few days of walking it seems natural to shed burdens you no longer require. We traveled today along the coast with sunshine galore and a breezy north wind - a little chilly. This was a day for turquoise waters, windmills and lighthouses! There were mirador (picturesque spots) around each bend. The rocks in the paths varied from pea gravel to big boulders that we needed to scramble over- we’re always looking ahead but not forgetting to watch directly at our feet- probably a good metaphor and plan for life! We had some roadway walking too which was interesting bc the cars here drive very fast. Easy to find the pilgrim’s path while on roadways because it’s painted bright yellow- our yellow brick road. (but of course we’re off to see not the Wizard but St. James!) ☺️ We were able to stop at cafés twice today- lucky to find them- and sample some pain au chocolat, more orange juice and a wonderful vegetarian lentil and turnip soup- such food! We did some significant climbing into Baiona and checked into our hostel- Estrella de Mar- where we had a 4 person pod and Angèle and I ended up in top bunks- pretty proud of myself that after 14 miles I was able to climb up there! After quick showers we grabbed a cab and doubled back to the outskirts of town to visit the Virxe de Rocha, an enormous granite monument on Mount Sansón with a 15m statue of a magnificent Our Lady holding a boat and raising a hand to bless the waters. We climbed up the steps around her and felt the wind blowing off the harbor- what a thrill! Our cab driver was kind enough to drive us into the Parador complex so we could see the old fort now converted into a luxury hotel. Back down in the harbor area with it’s narrow medieval streets we saw the replica of the Pinta, one of three ships that discovered America and we had a dinner of whole fish (sole) and vegetables that was delicious. Finally home at the hostel it was lights out early because a lot of these pilgrims get up very early to leave- hoping to be one of those tomorrow!Read more

    • Day 4

      Crossing the Pyrenees Mountains 🥾

      April 17 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

      The 24km (almost 15mile) "Route de Napoléon" between St Jean and Roncesvalles over the Pyrenees Mountains is said to be the most physically difficult stretch of trail that we are likely to encounter on the Camino de Santiago Frances. ⛰️

      This route has claimed many lives during harsh weather, our day included rain with high winds and cold temps in the mid 30-40 degrees . The day we were on this route a fellow pilgrim unfortunately needed to be emergency rescued due to hypothermia.

      To say that a hot shower and warm meal at the monastery in Roncesvalles at the end of this day were greatly appreciated would be an understatement!

      Here’s a little history for you…The "Route de Napoléon" is thus named because of its strategic importance during the Napoleonic wars and it is the route Napoleon took to cross into Spain following the old Roman road the Via Triana. It was also used as a route through the Pyrenees by Emperor Charlemagne.

      The Route Napoléon is the route that pilgrims have used for several centuries primarily because of its lack of trees and other places where bandits could hide, unlike the heavily wooded route through Valcarlos.
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    • Day 3

      Day 1 - St Jean Pied de Port to Burguete

      April 17 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

      Climbed a mountain today, crossing the Pyrenees from France into Spain. Rained pretty much all day, and was so foggy you couldn’t see more than 20 feet in front of you at times. And you certainly couldn’t see the amazing views this portion is known for. The first 5 miles were not fun. Steady sharp climb with no break - and a long line of people looking like they deeply regret their decision to do this walk. After that point though, it was tough but the climbs were broken up by little flat bits. The descent was steep and slippery in spots with mud, incredibly thick layers of leaf rot and wet rocks, but through a beautiful old growth forest. And then we hit flatish ground for the last 4 miles. Planned 16.5 miles today and did 19 - missed a turn due to fog and had to take the longer route down as the police closed the short route due to weather. Took 8.5 hours, and I was tired, muddy and hungry when done. Felt pretty good, but I will definitely be sore tomorrow. Met some really nice people I walked with off and on, and had dinner with. So far my Camino “family” represents Korea, Japan, Italy, Phoenix and Buffalo. Pics in order: starting out, lots of horses roaming free with bells on their neck that sounded like wind chimes, a food truck right before the last climb - the only place for good and water in 14 miles, the start of the descent path, part of the forest, the well known but not accurate sign outside Roncesvelles, a mural welcoming you to Burguete, my shoes after today, marker showing you entered Spain, and the foggy view from the top, my route today.Read more

    • Day 99

      In Katalonien

      April 17 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Bei herrlichstem Sonnenschein verlassen wir am Dienstag unser kleines Camp. Alles hat reibungslos geklappt. Mein Fahrer hatte Sorge, dass Bigfoot nach 3 Monaten stehen, vielleicht Zicken macht. Aber alles gut…starten, warten bis der Kompressor den Lufttank gefüllt hat und los geht’s!
      Einen schönen letzten Abend verbringen wir u.a. mit Tim aus England. Wir unterhalten uns dabei auch über den Brexit und die Folgen für ihn als „Nicht-EU Bürger“. Er darf sich immer nur 3 Monate in einem europäischen Land aufhalten, muss für mindestens 3 Monate wieder zurück und kann dann für den gleichen Zeitraum wiederkommen. „Die meisten Menschen in England haben nicht wirklich gewußt über was sie da abgestimmt haben und welche Konsequenzen der Ausstieg für sie haben würde“ erzählt er uns. „Und am Ende will es keiner gewesen sein. Mit jedem mit dem du sprichst sagt, ich war dagegen“. Unglaublich!
      Wie auf der Herfahrt besuchen wir in Denia unsere Freunde, essen aber dieses Mal eine hervorragende Pizza im Restaurante San Guiseppe und erleben anschließend gemeinsam einen leidenschaftlichen Champions-League Abend und feiern Dortmund für ihren Einzug ins Halbfinale.

      https://maps.app.goo.gl/cwg4niWc6dyHF9kt9?g_st=ic

      Jetzt sind wir in der Kleinstadt L’ Aldea am Beginn des Ebrodeltas in Katalonien angekommen. Die stolze rote Stadtflagge weht im Sonnenschein.
      Hier auf dem stillgelegten Bahngelände wurde liebevoll ein kostenfreier Stellplatz für 30 Wohnmobile geschaffen. Wir stehen mit unserem Gespann ganz am Ende des Platzes. Quasi am Beginn der Wander- und Radfahrstrecke „ Via Verde del Delta de l‘Ebre“.

      https://maps.app.goo.gl/GS2UqZ3Uq2XL1MG2A?g_st=ic

      Beim Rundgang durch den eher nichtssagenden Ort, begrüßen uns ein paar junge Leute auf deutsch mit „Herzlich Willkommen“! Die jungen Katalanen machen ein Picknick auf dem gepflegten Rasen des Dorfplatzes.
      Zurück am Stellplatz genießen wir den betörenden Geruch der blühenden, nahegelegenen Apfelsinenplantagen.
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    • Day 7

      To Jimera de Libar (26 km and 860 m)

      April 17 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      Long and hard, but most of all beautiful and exhilarating. One of those days that leaves you tired but grateful and feeling full. A few kms after leaving El Colmenar, we saw the hydroelectric plant and Clare was able to explain what is to most people a long fat pipe, but which she calls a penstock. Then came the gorge, with a lot of rocky ascents and beautiful views. The trail was very well maintained with a wooden bridge or two, a tunnel through some of the rock face, and railings to hang on to at exactly the right points.

      After the gorge there’s a little hamlet where I bought a cold Aquarius in a shop. Then came a much less strenuous ascent through fields filled with wildflowers everywhere and the Serranía de Ronda (name of the mountains) circling the meadows. Lots of jagged peaks all around.

      Claire and I went at our own pace today. I would have stopped to wait if there had been any dicey spots like last year’s canyon walk, but it all seemed manageable.

      I got to our Casa Rural in Jimera with time to take a quick shower, throw my clothes in the washing machine and get a ride from a neighbor up to the Cueva de la Pileta, a privately owned cave with amazing formations and paintings dating to 40,000 years ago. The newer ones are only 3000 years old. I don’t really know anything about prehistory, but it was pretty amazing to lay my eyes on paintings that had been drawn such an inconceivably long time ago. There were skeletons down at the bottom of a pit, an unsolved mystery of whether they were accidents, sacrifices, or maybe even a burial place. All of the rooms where the paintings were had evidence of smoke, so the inhabitants must have built fires inside. No photos allowed, so I bought a few postcards of these amazing drawings — a horse, a fish that had swallowed a seal, and some stick figures were my favorites.

      The only restaurant in town is closed tonight, but thankfully there is a little grocery store where we got sandwich fixings. We’re in a Casa Rural with a pool and magnificent views.. Our tomato, cheese, and jamón Serrano sandwiches were more than enough!
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    • Day 18–19

      16. Etappe: Frómista —> Carrión

      April 17 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 3 °C

      Heute mach ich es mal ganz kurz, da es auch nur 19km waren und ich mit Bauchschmerzen, Appetitlosigkeit und Müdigkeit zu kämpfen habe. Nachdem letzte Nacht so krass geschnarcht wurde, dass ich kaum ein Auge zu bekommen habe und man mehr oder weniger von den anderen ab 5 Uhr geweckt wird, fallen 3 Nächte Schlaflosigkeit dann doch langsam auf und irgendwie hab ich mir on top etwas den Magen verdorben, weiß leider aber nicht womit 😵‍💫
      Ich schlaf dann einfach mal bis morgen durch 👋🏼
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Kingdom of Spain, Spanien, Spanish State, ስፔን, 스페인, ܐܣܦܢܝܐ, สเปน, スペイン, 에스파냐, ສະເປນ, እስፓንያ, ସ୍ପେନ୍, អេស្ប៉ាញ, ประเทศสเปน, An Spáinn, An Spàinn, Caxtillan, Esipaɲi, Esipanye, Espaañ, Espagne, Èspagne, Espaina, Espainia, España, Espangne, Espanha, Espania, Espanja, Espánjja, Espanya, Espânye, Espay, Estado Español, Hesperia, Hisipaniya, Hispaania, Hispania, Hispanio, Hispanujo, Hiszpania, Isbeyn, Ispagna, i-Spain, Ispaña, Ispanija, İspaniya, İspanya, Ispuanii, la Madre Patria, La pell de brau, La piel de toro, Nsipani, Orílẹ́ède Sipani, Pain, Paniora, Pāniora, Regne d'Espanya, Reino de España, sangue, Sbaen, Sepania, Sepanyol, Sepeni, Sipeini, Sipen, Sipeyini, Spagn, Spagna, Spagne, Spain, Španělsko, Spania, Spánia, Spania nutome, Španielsko, Španija, Spānija, Španiska, Spanja, Spanje, Spanjë, Španjolska, Spánn, Spanya, Spanyän, Spanyol, Spanyolország, Spayn, Spen, Spēna, Spéonland, Spēonland, Spuenien, Szpańskô, Tây Ban Nha, Uhispania, Yn Spaainey, أسبانيا, إسبانيا, اسبانيا, اسپانیا, اسپین, ہسپانیہ, سپین, هسپانیه, ئیسپانیا, ئىسپانىيە, ספרד, שפאניע, Ισπανία, Гішпанія, Испани, Испания, Испониё, Іспанія, Шпанија, སི་པན།, སིཔཱེན, སིཔཱེན་, Իսպանիա, ესპანეთი, स्पेन, સ્પેઇન, સ્પેન, స్పేన్, ಸ್ಪೈನ್, ஸ்பெயின், സ്പെയിന്‍, স্পেন, စပိန်, ස්පාඤ්ඤය, 西班牙

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