Tajikistan
Viloyati Sughd

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    • Day 35

      Seven lakes TJ

      July 1, 2023 in Tajikistan ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

      After a smooth border crossing from Uzbekistan to Tajikistan we headed to the famous seven lakes.
      The way there was wow, beyond amazing. Beautiful dirt roads climbing to 2,300 meters. One lake after another, some big others small. At the bottom few lakes some people live, and the higher up you go the leas people you find. All the way at the top we were alone with only one other cycling camper.
      Stayed a total of two nights. Went for a hike into the mountains on day two.
      As we tried to set off the next day Markus motorbike broke down, he is now waiting for a pick up and will need to find the nearest garage.
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    • Day 33

      Tag 29 auf dem Landweg in die Mongolei

      August 30, 2023 in Tajikistan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      In Tajikistan 🇹🇯 haben wir als erstes Ziel Dushanbe . Aber wir haben Zeit. Einen Tag sind wir unserem Plan voraus und können daher am Iskandarkus See halt machen und eine Übernachtung auf 2.200 Metern einplanen. Das passt gut, da Suvdmaa heute Geburtstag hat und wir gerne Feste feiern.Read more

    • Day 35

      Khujand/Хуҷанд - Dag 1

      June 26, 2022 in Tajikistan ⋅ ☀️ 41 °C

      Deze grens was totaal anders dan die van gisteren. Alles was best ruim opgezet en groots, alleen ik heb tijdens de overgang misschien een stuk of 10 andere mensen gezien (zowel in en uit Uzbekistan), en allemaal locals. Ook was alles lekker relaxed en het ging z'n gangetje, niemand leek het echt extreem veel te boeien. Alleen de Tajikse douane ging even weg met m'n paspoort (ruim baan om door te rennen, ik was de enige), maar alles was oke. Bij een volgende post nog één blik naar m'n Covid test, en klaar.

      De chauffeur van de eerste Marshrutka wees aan waar ik moest zijn voor de Marshrutka naar Khujand, en toen ik uiteindelijk niet helemaal begreep welke bus het nou was, waren er direct mensen die de goede aanwezen. De Marshrutka stopte helemaal aan de rand van Khujand, en ik had geen idee welke naar het centrum ging. De chauffeur liet z'n busje achter, en trok me letterlijk aan m'n arm mee naar de straat, en hield uiteindelijk een busje tegen. Hij heeft zelfs aan de chauffeur verteld waar ik eruit moest haha! Daarnaast was het guesthouse echt op een onvindbare plek, dus na wat gevraagd te hebben liepen er twee oude mannetjes met me mee om het aan te wijzen. Oftewel, dankzij de bevolking hier ben ik goed terecht gekomen, anders had het veel en veel langer geduurd!
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    • Day 201

      A warm Welcome to Uzbekistan

      November 12, 2019 in Tajikistan ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

      First day in a new country is always quite busy, you need to sort out car insurance, SIM card, perhaps money if you were not able to do this on the precious country, a was the case this time. I did not find a bank in Tajikistan that would hold any Uzbek Som as the currency has been deregulated. In addition to that I needed to refill my gas bottle. I just had to exchange my Mongolian bottle in Dushanbe as the regulator was leaking. And for whatever reason it was already empty. Strange!!! And scary.
      Whatever. In the first larger town I entered in Ubekistan I saw a shop sign saying "Kredit ...", so thinking it was a bank I stopped, only to realize, this is no bank but a shop you can buy things on credit. Not what I wanted. So I ask the man standing next to me, where was the next Bank. Oh, I have taxi here, I drive you there. Cheeky bugger I think, thanks, but no thanks. The next person I ask shows me the direction. Off I walk and I walk. .. this cannot be right, so I ask a lady coming my way. Yes you come with me she signs at me, so I turn around and walk with her in the direction I just came from. Just where I have parked my car she makes an attempt to gently shove me in a group taxi. This are teeny little vans, about half the size of mine, in Australia they would seat 6 max, here you get in 8, with some good will 10 people and a carpet for good measure. I mean what are Windows there for, if not to open them and stick the carpet out sideways. I put up some resistance, don't I have a single Som to my name, and the driver wants some money for sure. So a big debate ensues. There comes a man to my rescue who speaks English, and to him I am able to explain my predicament, just arrived in U, have no uzbek money, need bank to change, taxi is to bring me there but needs to be paid for. Can't finish telling him my car is just parked over here, please tell me where bank is, I can drive myself. He briefly talks to the driver, the driver nods, they push me into the taxi. But... "No money" I say, "Taxi free" he indicates and off we go. And go and go. How am I going to find my Car and Rex again, quickly a pin set on Google earth, and go and go. Finally the taxi stops, "this bank", I say many "Rahmats", thank yous, everyone laughs gently, hands on my shoulder oh, she speaks Uzbek, I laugh back and off I go into the bank. Long cue at the counter, but I am osistently pushed to the front. No waiting for this foreign lady. I am sent to another counter, where again I have the privilege of jumping the cue and 5 mins later I have money in my pocket. Feels better right away.
      But now, how do I get back??? Well, when in Rome, do as the Romans do. I put myself at the roadside and stick out my thumb to the first grouptaxi that comes my way, it promptly stops. I jump in to the excitement of everyone already in there, and off we go. Loud music, a lot of chattering and at a speed faster than to my liking but did I enjoy this little trip! Should do it more often.
      Next stop SIM card. Nothing remarkable happening here.
      Now back to the car and looking to get my gas bottle refilled.
      Most cars in Uzbekistan are driving on gas to the extent, that petrol and particularly diesel is really hard to come by. In all the other countries I was able to get my gas bottle refilled at fuel stations that as well had gas for cars. So I thought it would be as easy as driving up to one gas refuelling stations, but no such luck. It's Methane not Propane they drive on. So where do I find Propane? No one really knows, just some approximate direction on the map. So off I the drive trying to find propane. One thing here is driving and looking for anything when cars are coming at you left, right and center in the oriental fashion, the other thing is deciphering the Cyrillic writing., but eventually I see a gas bottle sign which I follow. But unfortunately this is a workshop where they retrofit cars for gas use. I tell them what I want, but, no, they cannot help me. So a lot of palaver again, people running here and there, I am told to wait, which I do, being of obedient nature. Eventually a man comes, asks for my bottle, tells me to follow him, opening the pass3nger door of his car, suggesting I enter and off we go, driving through the whole town, 15 mins at least it seems and voilá, here we are at the propane refilling place.
      This was my first day in Uzbekistan. Is there any better way for a acountry to introduce itself to me? This boundless preparedness to help in these Central Asian Countries is so heart warming. I know I am repeating myself, but these experiences will have a lasting impact on my life and attitude to people needing help.
      Managed to get some sightseeing done as well that day. First impressions of the glorious architecture of the Uzbek cities along the silk road.
      When visiting the Jami Mosque Museum in Kokand instead of the expected serenity I was greeted by a pop concert, featuring several Uzbek singers. What most impressed me was how these ladies in their long dresses and head scarves got up and stared dancing and enjoying themselves. Unfortunately I could not capture this moment, too far away.
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    • Day 201

      A day in Khujand

      November 12, 2019 in Tajikistan ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

      Staying at a large family, consisting as so many here out of grand parents, daughters and/ or daughters in law, whose husbands are working in Russia and of course their children plus children left with their grandparents whilst both parents are living in Russia, i stumbled across an intreaging piece of furniture: a narrow cradle with a hole in the middle. I found out that at least small babies don't wear any nappies, and that hole solves the soiling problem. For boys there is a pipe like contraption that gets attached to their little penis, unfortunately they did not have the equivalent for girls in the house, and everything gets diverted into a container attached to the bed. To keep the baby in situ they get tied down with silky straps.
      Well, saves a lot of nappies and washing.
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    • Day 8

      Trek dans les Fann Mountains - Kulikalon

      July 18, 2022 in Tajikistan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      On laisse les vélos chez une famille tadjik qui a accepté d’héberger notre tente dans leur jardin la nuit précédente. On n’a aucun vocabulaire commun (français+anglais vs. tadjik+russe) mais le contact passe bien et on leur fait confiance. On part donc pour une longue montée à pied de 1000m de dénivelé vers le premier lac de cette région des Fann Mountains. C'est éprouvant mais magnifique et ce n’est que le début…Read more

    • Day 10

      Trek dans lesFann Mountains -Lac Alaudin

      July 20, 2022 in Tajikistan ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      On poursuit notre trek en passant le col Alaudin à près de 3800m d’altitude pour arriver au lac du même nom. On commence l’ascension à 6h du matin pour éviter de cramer, et passons deux guets à l’eau gelée pour nous réveiller. L’ascension est longue, et la descente cassante: on n’est pas encore très fit et l’altitude nous donne une grosse migraine qui ne nous permet pas trop de profiter de l’eau incroyable du lac, ni de la vue sur les sommets voisins culminant à plus de 5300m. On se couche à …18h!

      Heureusement, le lendemain on se sent mieux pour l’ascension du col permettant de revenir dans la vallée précédente. En route, on se fait même interviewer par la télévision locale. On passe notre troisième nuit auprès d’un petit lac en compagnie de deux autres voyageurs et de leurs guides autour d’un feu de camp.
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    • Day 185

      Quiet days on the lake

      October 27, 2019 in Tajikistan ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

      Whilst waiting for my Car parts I decided to drive to Iskander-Kul, a lake high in the Fan mountains. To get there from Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan, we had to drive up a pass which is particularly interesting as you have to travel through some really mean tunnels, the longest being 8km. I am not easily intimidated but when leaving the bright sunlight and driving into this pitchblack tunnel, no or hardly any lights, no white markings, drains along the wall, no ventilation, therefore very Smokey and the environment swallowing any light, that is quite scary. It is noted on the map as "dangerous tunnel", which may give you the gist. It was definitely worth the while driving this road.
      And then through quite spectacular mountain scenery on a dirt track eventually you reach the opal blue mountain lake. Stunning color!!!
      Here I am, nobody else on this lake at the end of the world, apart from myself and my co-travellers, who arrived a day later, and you assume nothing is going to happen apart from some hikes.
      But low and behold one afternoon there was a fashion shoot, the next evening we were invited to a BBQ à la tajik, (oh, never again vodka,) and one morning we were woken by a huge herd of Yak being driven past our vans making their grunting yak noises.
      Unfortunately I had to get back to Dushanbe sorting out my car business.
      PS: ithe caption ruins every picture., particularly that photoshoot one which has a fairytale quality to it. Therefore the caption here: it was a very cold day, and the poor girl had to pose in sleeveless dresses. A hard job...
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    • Day 11

      Hospitalité tadjik

      July 21, 2022 in Tajikistan ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

      Pendant toute la durée du trek, nous avons laissé les vélos chez une famille tadjik. En passant en fin de journée devant une maison peuplée d’enfants avec quelques femmes palabrant devant, nous leurs avons demandé pour planter la tente dans leur jardin. Plus que de simplement accepter, elles nous ont même offert un magnifique plov que nous avons dégusté devant la tente avec Sadik le mari. Au matin nous leur avons demandé pour stocker nos vélos et nos sacoches chez eux pendant nos 4 jours de treks.

      A notre retour, impossible de récupérer nos affaires et de repartir comme ça! Nous avons été expressément invités à rester nous reposer pendant la chaleur de la mi-journée et à déjeuner avec eux. Au menu: des Barakas: de petits raviolis faits à la main pendant deux heures par notre hôte. De quoi nous donner plein d’entrain pour la descente de 15km qui a suivi.

      En fin de journée, nous avons fait du stop + pris un taxi pour rejoindre Dushanbe avant le week-end…
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    • Day 34

      Au bord du Syr Daria

      August 13, 2022 in Tajikistan ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

      Nous passons notre dernière nuit au Tadjikistan sur une plage au bord du grand lac formé par une retenue d’eau sur le Syr Daria. Ce fleuve est l’un des deux qui est sensé se jeter dans la mer d’Aral, et irrigue tout le tiers nord de l’Asie Centrale (l’Amou Daria irrigue le tiers sud).

      Bière, coucher de soleil sur le lac, spot de camping paradisiaque (malgré les déchets plastiques): on se met bien!
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Viloyati Sughd, Sughd, Согдийская область

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