Tanzania
Kipili

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    • Day 38–41

      Relaxation

      December 13, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      The last stretch of 60 km from Namanyere to here leads through untouched forest and I would have never thought to arrive at such a surreal, fancy establishment, the Lakeshore Lodge. Surrounded by beautiful landscape, with small islands in front and wonderful views on the mountain stretches of Congo. As I arrive, Vanillekipferl are being baked.

      I spend my trip's last days with hammocking, bread dough raising, cooking, roasting coffee or cocoa or groundnuts and fixing minor issues around the car. One morning, I spontaneously join a boat tour to Mvuna island for snorkelling. Good decision! But, diving masks attached to beards really don't make sense. I also learn that extracting oxygen from water is better left to the fish.

      And there will remain a hundred other things yet untold this time.
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    • Day 465

      Food for thought

      February 4, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

      A 2016 study reported in the "Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences" discovered that fish stocks are inversely proportional to water temperature. So as the water in the lake has been getting warmer, fish levels have been decreasing. We no longer know why things are heating up - scientists had a pretty good theory but ScoMo and other politicians have set them right about that.

      Anglers going after Goliath tigerfish and Nile perch don't appear to have much effect on stocks; and nor do the traditional hook & line or gill net fishermen in their leaky canoes.

      Clearly commercial fishing, which in the 1950's started using the infamous artisanal lift nets and industrial purse seines, has had a pretty big impact. There are about 800 fishery sites and around 100,000 people involved. But the industry collapsed in the 80's so I am not sure how many fishermen are actually making a living, especially as there are an increasing number of juvenile fish being caught. The catch in 1995 was around 196,570 tons. This fisherman has hooked a piece of Tanganyika rock, or maybe its a stonefish.

      So here is the dilemma. Fish stocks declining as temperature rising. The only option is to reduce commercial fishing.
      But these fish provide 60% of the animal protein consumed in the region. And children are turning up at school malnourished even now.

      Go figure.
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    • Day 473

      Dormitory block

      February 12, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

      The buildings on this site of St Bernard's House, for it is not yet an Abbey or Priory, were erected by donation in the late 80s and have been decaying since then. The mattress, for example, crackles as the foam disintegrates and conforms to ones body shape - provide that shape is a concave U. At the back of the room a small, tiled corridor serves as one's private bathroom: the old plastic WC with a shattered plastic seat at one end and in the middle a shower rose, faded, from which dribbles muddy water pumped up from the lake. Underneath it a leaking tap fills a 25 litre bucket daily providing ambient music throughout the night.

      Yesterday evening I was summoned in the dark to help Bro James start the small 2 stroke Honda which moves the lake up to a tank above the dormitories. Since he had been trying to start it for 1/2 hour it was well flooded so the first task was to remove and clean the spark plug. Only there was no spanner: a boy was sent to rouse a nearby farmer who had one. Whilst we waited for him I removed the air cleaner and tipped the sponge filter onto the ground, not wanting to handle the black saturated grunge that served to clean the air. Bro James had no such qualms and picked it up to squeeze the oil and water out, but alas it completely fell apart and could not be reused. Eventually we removed and cleaned the plug and it started. Like the buildings, it had never been maintained.
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    • Day 475

      Kitchen garden

      February 14, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

      The smoke blackened room used as a kitchen is so uninviting that food is prepared on open fires outside.
      Susanna is seen here boiling beans whilst Anastasia is butchering some fish on the old bed springs serving as a kitchen table.
      In Africa, all sorts of hangers-on gravitate to the kitchens when food is available and this mother with her two offspring are enjoying their victuals provided by the monks meagre food allowance. Apparently our host Bro Gasper keeps some of the allocation to fuel his 4WD so that he can visit his mates in Sumbawanga. This has caused tensions with the German architects from supertecture who are actually doing the building work and feel that the addition of vegetables would give them a better balance diet and who believe that occasional fruits would not be a luxury: especially since their contract with Mvimba Monastery stipulates that they should be fed.
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    • Day 464

      Low point of my trip

      February 3, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      From being under the high point of Africa, Mt Kilimanjaro, I am now at Kipili beside the low point. The Great Rift Valley here is submerged by Lake Tanganyika, (named from Tanganika, "the great lake spreading out like a plain",) whose bottom in this southern basin lies 642 meters below sea level; a depth of 1470 m. About 18% of the world’s unfrozen surface freshwater is held in it.

      The area first came to the attention of Europeans when the famous Welsh actor, Richard Burton stumbled upon it with his fellow thespian, Richard Speke, whilst making "Mountains of the Moon". More recently, you might have seen a Monty Python version called "Pole to Pole" where a slightly stunned Michael Palin sails the length of the lake on the ferry, MV Liemba. Rumour has it that David Livingstone was also on location here, but I can find no mention of any film of that in IMDb.

      The scenery is as pleasant as you would expect; but doesn't reveal it's uniqueness, so here are some "fun facts" for the next Trivial Pursuits game in your local pub.
      ⦁ It is the longest fresh water lake in the world and the second deepest after lake Baikal in Russia.
      [depth = 1433 m / 4700 ft; length = 677 km / 420 miles; width = 50 km/ 31 miles]
      ⦁ its somewhere between 9 to 12 million years old, though some claim the bottom waters may be over 20 million
      ⦁ the Rift Valley here has formed three basins without any drainage: the contents either evaporates or overflows
      ⦁ the lake surface may have fluctuated up to 300 meters lower at than it is today: with the high evaporation rate it rarely overflowed into the 320 km Lukuga tributary of the Congo River and the sea. On average water remains in the lake for 440 years.
      ⦁ Tanzania’s second largest river, the 475 km Malagarasi River, is older than the lake. It used to flow directly into the Congo River from the East but now is captured by the lake.
      ⦁ Life has not yet been found in the bottom 1200 meters of the lake as it is too high in hydrogen sulphide or too low in oxygen. But I'm haven't found anybody who has looked.
      ⦁ Unusually, the water in the lower depths is only 3° C colder than the 25° C surface temperature. Nobody knows why.
      ⦁ Winds can stir things up a bit, even causing 6m waves during storms; which helps stop bilharzia snails spreading but doesn't mix the layers of water up very much.
      ⦁ The nutrient carried into the lake is negligible; fish rely on algae fed by nutrients rising from the bottom.
      ⦁ There are over 350 species of fish, 95 % endemic, (4 predatory and 2 types of sardine,) as well as indigenous snails, shrimps and crabs. The lake's incredible diversity makes it an important resource for the study of speciation in evolution.
      ⦁ The locals say that the crocodiles - freshies not salties luckily - and hippos generally don't cause a problem except perhaps at dawn and dusk.
      ⦁ All the usual invasive plants, such as lantana, duckweed and the toon tree, can be found choking the shoreline. Surely some, like the coffee senna, the castor oil plant and my favourite, the Nile Cabbage could be harvested?
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    • Day 477

      Sisters

      February 16, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      About a kilometre away from the monks, three jolly Benedictine sisters have created a self-contained but still decrepit House and warmly welcome visitors.
      The big attraction at the moment is the huddle of 1 week old puppies with whom the cat has fraternal feelings. They keep pigs, chickens and a bowl of pigeons for nourishment and to sell the eggs. Behind the birds a mosquito net has been hung over the dog basket.
      One of the visitors is a German lady who has been trying to establish a micro-bank in a nearby town. She has returned because the capital her church had collected mysteriously disappeared. The ladies who received the funds used them as intended and paid back the loans, but the manager of the funds cannot explain where the money has gone. Africa!
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    • Day 476

      Building site

      February 15, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      The first buildings to go up will be an accommodation block for the supertecture group. The young architects have designed a group of old containers to sit on a prime location by the lakeside. In contrast, an adjacent building created in a more traditional African vernacular sits abandoned except for the occasional pig.Read more

    • Day 70

      Lake View Resort, Kipili

      November 19, 2016 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Die vissersdorpie Kipili lê teen die Tanganjikameer en hier het oud-Suid-Afrikaners Louise en Chris Horsfall een van die mooiste lodges in Tanzanië gebou. Boonop is die kos en diens uit die boonste rakke. Skaars 1 km se stap van die lodge staan die fabelagtige bouval van een van die land se oudste sendingskerke.Read more

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