Tanzania
Zanzibar City

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    • Day 2

      Stone Town

      December 14, 2022 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

      A week spent in the beautiful stone town mostly involved wandering the old streets, trying the street food, and generally taking it "pole pole" (slow in Swahili). It's a sleepy town for most of the day, with the waterfront coming to life just before sunset as the temperature drops and the locals gather on the waterfront and beach to eat and socialise. A highlight and a must for anyone coming here is to watch groups of boys doing dance routines, acrobatics, and cliff jumping.
      The locals are super friendly, and yes obviously half of them are trying to get something, but at least half of them just want to have a chat and welcome you to Zanzibar, especially those outside of the tourist areas. One of my favourite places to wander was Darajani Bazaar, a local market where people genuinely wanted to say hello and welcome (jambo/karibu), and I picked up some awesome climate appropriate Swahili dresses - those ladies really know what they're on about wearing these! One evening I sat and had a coffee for 200 shilling (7p) with some locals finishing up work for the day and discussed the football from the night before (no I didn't watch it - but I saw snippets as locals gathered in groups around TVs in the streets).
      And of course I had to do some proper tourist stuff too, so I went on a Spice tour and did a Swahili cooking class - damn the food was good! I also went to the Slavery Memorial and learnt about the history of slavery on the island - sobering stuff.
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    • Day 97–98

      Stone Town & Zanzibar City, Tanzania

      April 8 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

      Once the crown jewel of the spice trade, Zanzibar's wealth and influence were unparalleled in East Africa. However, the haunting legacy of the slave trade lingers amidst the city's ornate architecture. From the grandeur of what was once the Sultan's Palace and the bustling markets brimming with spices, we find a harsh reality which exemplifies a transformation from the wealthiest African nation to one grappling with economic and social challenges. Nevertheless, genuine hospitality and smiles greet us everywhere.Read more

    • Day 177

      Tour of Stone Town

      June 26, 2022 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      Final tour for Zanzibar, was a morning tour of Stone Town. Started at the historical East African slave market . . . https://nataniatravel.com/en/the-slave-market-z… then through various markets. Passed by Freddie Mercury's childhood home, and various fruit and fish markets. Interesting city with a long (and traumatic) history.Read more

    • Day 18

      Stonetown 🕌

      February 14, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      Die Nachbarn von Karins Eltern führen in Stonetown ein Coffeehouse. Dieses wollten wir umbedingt besuchen...nicht zuletzt weil wir uns endlich, nach zwei Wochen Kaffee aus der Dose mit Milchpulver, einen guten Capuccino erhofften. ☕️ Unsere Hoffnung wurde nicht enttäuscht... mmmhhh lecker 😋🤗 wir bummeln durch die heissen Gassen der Altstadt bis die Kleider, wie auch die Verkäufer, an uns kleben. Wir flüchten in unser klimatisiertes Mietauto und fahren ins Innere der Insel und besuchen einen Regenwald. Leider ist die Begehung wieder nur mit einem Guide erlaubt und mit Kosten verbunden. JUST LOOKING IS FOR FREE 🙄 wir können viele Affen 🐒🐵 aus nächster Nähe beobachten. Wir fahren weiter zur Ostküste und essen in einem einheimischen, herzigen Strassenrestaurant. 🥭🍍🥑🥘🥤

      Anmerkung Karin: Mungu wangu, Susanne hat Nerven aus Stahl, hier Auto zu fahren mit all dem selbstmordgefährdeten Tieren und ohne erkennbare Strassenregeln erfordert Mut! 💪🏼🚗🥳 Susanne fährt eine Art "Mario Kart", weicht allen Hindernissen geschickt aus und versucht sich mit Lichthupen-Kommunizieren:
      1x Lichthupen = Gibt es Polizeikontrolle? 2x = alles gut, Du kannst weiterrasen, 3x = Achtung, Polizei (Angaben ohne Gewähr)
      Auf dem Heimweg ignoriert sie gekonnt den Versuch eines Polizisten uns anzuhalten. Keine Zeit für sowas! Hakuna matata 😅
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    • Day 491

      Captivity

      March 1, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

      "We must find new lands from which we can easily obtain raw materials and at the same time exploit the cheap slave labor that is available from the natives of the colonies. The colonies would also provide a dumping ground for the surplus goods produced in our factories." [Cecil Rhodes]

      “Captivity is the greatest of all evils that can befall one.” » Miguel de Cervantes

      Slavery has always existed in various forms and even the Roman Seneca the Younger wrote “Slavery takes hold of few, but many take hold of slavery.”
      The East African slave trade was funneled to the markets in Zanzibar, (although there were several others on the mainland,) partly because there was already a well established trading route run by Omani Arabs up the coast. In the 10th Century many slaves were sent to Iraq to fight in wars there, but by the 19th C the enormous numbers required to work in the cinnamon & clove plantations inspired several tribal groups to prey on each other.
      All of the main racial groups were involved in the slave trade in some way or other. French and Portugese used slaves in their plantations in the Indian Ocean islands (Martinique, Reunion etc), and Africans captured and sold prisoners taken in battle, or just kidnapped them. (The British developed the Western, Atlantic routes which competed for heads.)
      There was a fate worse than slavery: when there was a glut of potential slaves the Doe tribe north of Bagamoyo enjoyed eating the ‘excess supplies’.
      The trip down to the coast -often 1000 km - was unpleasant and an astonishing number died. One would imagine that the slavers would look after their assets but they were marched enormous distances daily on a bowl of gruel with a log around their necks or carrying enormous quantities of ivory. Any that couldn't make it were disposed of unceremoniously. Then, when they were near Zanzibar, the traders decided whether it was worth paying the tax or duty on each person: if not they were murdered on the beach.
      In Stone Town they were kept in various cellars such as the one photographed. Stuffy and claustrophobic, after an average of 3 days in here the weakest collapsed and were chucked on the beach to die. The rest were taken up to the market and apparently flogged on the spot where the Anglican Church's altar now stands; to increase their sale value if they didn't cry out. (I suspect this is a bit of hyperbole for the tourists but then, it wouldn't surprise me.) After all that, being sold must have seemed a minor problem for, whilst plantation life was certainly rough, domestic life was better than they might have had previously.
      One testimony in the exhibition on the site of the old slave markets, is from a woman who was accused of being someone's slave and managed to prove her manumission to the magistrate. She was awarded a sum of money and when asked what use she would make of the cash, said that she would buy a slave.
      Another celebrity was Salme (1824-1924), the daughter of Omani Sultan Sayeed Said (d. 1856) and a Circassian concubine from the Caucasus Mountains of Russia who was part of the his harem. She eloped with a German merchant, changed her name to Emily Ruete and wrote "Memoirs of an Arabian Princess from Zanzibar" about her life.
      Many women were suria, which was a state of slavery for them but not their children. This has resulted in a rich and varied gene pool in Zanzibar, often in particularly attractive people.
      In 1822, the Omani Arabs signed the Moresby treaty which made it illegal for them to sell slaves to Christian powers. After helping to convince Sultan Barghash of Zanzibar to abolish the trade on 6th June 1873, (in the usual British Diplomatic way,) the Royal Navy enforced the agreement by patrolling the waters and intercepting any dhows with human cargo.
      Interestingly, the good Anglican sailors deliberately attributed the trade in its entirety to heathen Mohammedans. In fact, the richest trader was the infamous Tippu Tip (1837-1905) otherwise known as Hamed bin Mohammed, who was African. Usually though, it was the Africans who collected and the Arabs who divested.
      Despite the best efforts of HM Navy, and numerous photos of rugged matelots lofting liberated and wriggling brown babies into the air, (one can rely on the British shoulder for innocent propaganda,) the trade continued, particularly on the mainland. Slaving was illegal but existed openly until Britain defeated the Germans in the First World War.
      Freedom was not all it cracked up to be, even when the illiterate and often isolated plantation slaves finally understood what it meant that they were free. Some slaves had even been allowed to save a little money they made for their owner and buy property: on manumission they lost the land. Worse, they could not stay on the plantation as squatters and had to leave, becoming vagrants and thus subject to imprisonment and hard labour. The British authorities were concerned about keeping the now government owned plantations running and offered minimal wages to ex-slaves to continue working. Restricted land rights and a compulsory hut tax made sure they never escaped.
      Thus the modern system of slavery was introduced. It has grown in the 21stC in every country of the world to somewhere between 21 to 36 million people. That is more than the number of slaves seized during the entire African slave trade. The International Labour Organisation has put the value of slave labour output at 150 billion USD annually. This includes bonded labour, forced labour, child slavery, early or forced marriage as well as descent based slavery.
      In the news over the past few days, the Australian Strategic Policy Institute revealed that the Uighurs were being captured and made to work as prisoners for multinational companies in China. They are an Islamic people of Turkic origin whom the Chinese Communist Party portrays since 9/11 as auxiliaries of al-Qaeda. Without any evidence. But that didn't stop the US locking 20 of them in Guantanamo Bay for years without being charged with any offence. We don't really care about them of course, (we care about big Brand names being tarnished and wasting all that advertising money,) but still it is slavery.

      “The distinguishing sign of slavery is to have a price, and to be bought for it.” [John Ruskin]
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    • Day 2

      Endlich da!

      May 11, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      30 Stunden Reise liegen hinter uns - trotz der vielen Schwierigkeiten sind wir endlich da und wurden auf dem Flug von Nairobi nach Zanzibar mit einem atemberaubenden Blick auf den Kili belohnt!

      Nach der langen Suche nach dem Hostel- keiner von den locals scheint es zu kennen 😅 - können wir einchecken und los geht’s ins Getümmel. Zuerst wird sich um eine Simkarte gekümmert, wofür man tatsächlich seinen Pass, Unterschrift etc. angeben musste und vor allem ganz lange wartet…aber weiter geht’s durch den verwinkelten Stadtteil Stone Towns.

      Hier lernen wir viel über den Sklavenhandel in der Anglican Cathedral und unterhalten uns mit einem sehr netten Guide - es ist wirklich erschreckend, was Menschen anderen Menschen antuen können. Ein leckeres Essen in einem lokalen Restaurant schließt sich an, wo Roberts Augen mal wieder größer waren als sein Hunger und er sich drei frittierte Reisbälle zum Nachtisch bestellt, und ab geht’s zum Sonnenuntergang am Strand.
      Ein Bier und Karten runden den Abend ab und wir sind schon gespannt, was der morgige Tag uns bringen wird!
      Usiku mwema!
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    • Day 103

      Old Slave Market, Stone Town

      August 17, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      Afterwards, we went our separate ways. I headed back to Shangani Street to return to the Freddie Mercury Museum. They let me go back in to re-shoot the video that I failed to take yesterday! I also returned my faulty cushion cover and exchanged it for another bag of coffee 😂.

      I then made my way back to the hotel where I had some lunch poolside with Mark. After lunch, he was feeling up to a walk, so we went the short distance to visit the Slave Museum and Anglican church. It was a stark reminder of man’s inhumanity to man!
      We returned to the hotel as we were both feeling rough!

      This evening, we ate in the hotel again as neither of us felt like venturing far. After dinner, we packed and got organised, ready for our next adventure starting in the morning.
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    • Day 92

      Zanzibar unguja again

      December 17, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

      What’s up, I am back in the same spot as a week or two ago? Am I bad in travelling or something, did I miss something here that I wanted to revisit? (Did I actually meet a prostitute on the island that I fell in love with? )

      Well, no, here is the thing: cycling was too hot, I went diving, and now decided I will go back to dark es salaam to take the train at some point, so just chilling it with plenty of other tourists in zanzibar for two days. And I missed the old slave market last time I was here, which I had to go and visit.

      I made a new footprint to elaborate more on zanzibar. Because it’s touristic, and it’s busy, and it’s too busy with busy tourism. It’s too busy in that, through the super small alleyways and between the zigzag of small alleys, you constantly bump into small “taxis” or motorcycles. You are also not allowed to be tired here, or you will be punished by the city immediately and mercilessly: the honking and motorcycles make it impossible. (Nice thing is that I am immediately tired due to the heat…)

      It’s too touristy in that everyone wants something of you; that you have shops called “the souvenir emporium” (cringe); and that you have ten (easily; Turkish markets dont come close) of the same shops selling (or trying to) the same thing—masaai people selling their armbands and necklaces. And that you have to be careful about not being ripped off.

      What is cool about the tourism is that you can find good specialty coffee shops and feel like at home. I had a decent espresso by my standards, which was really something new. Also, and this is because tourism and because of the diverse heritage of Zanzibar, you have lassi here at some places, which is my favourite cool drink by far in the heat. Ayran but better.

      That is the thing about Zanzibar, it has a history of belonging to Portuguez, Oman, and Britain (Germany only controlled towns inland I believe), and for a long time there was a sultan of zanzibar, and it was a prosperous place due to very successful plantations (centering on cloves) and due to the ports, making the city very very rich and prosperous. (I also read that “ ...It might be called Stinkabar rather than Zanzibar”, because it smelled so bad 150 years ago). But around the 18th century, slavery became one of the most profitable business— I learned that slavery, even amongst blacks (different tribes) was very common before the Arabs or Portuguez started it, but the Omans and Arabs made it into a business on the island. (Moslims cannot take moslims as slaves, but no issue with blacks.) All blacks on the island were slaves during the 18th century, under the Sultans rule, and Zanzibar hosted a primary slavery market for entire east africa. Plus of course the plantation slaves. This made for a lot of islamic influences, arab people, and indian people living here; it also made for a lot of slavery of blacks, and slavery was the most profitable business on this island. (All blacks living here were apparently slaves…) About a third went to work on clove and coconut plantations of Zanzibar and Pemba while the rest were exported to Persia, Arabia, the Ottoman Empire and Egypt. (Pasted from wikipedia)

      It was worth coming back here, as I managed to ask a lot of questions to the ticket clerk at the museum, who was a historian. So I learned that slavery was only made worse by degree by Portuguese and Arabs, that the British might have said to want to abolish slavery early in the nineteenth century, but it would have sucked too much economically, so they held off for a bit, and about some blacks being employed as slave porters (and in fact becoming rich sometimes doing this) for the Arabs; in fact Tippu Tip (one of the most powerful slave traders) descended from a black and someone from Oman. Slavery was just business: frequently also a business to transport ivory, say, so a means to an end.

      Lastly, Zanzibars road to independence (going through the British and back to a Sultan) was not without bloodshed, when there was a revolt and several thousand ethnic Arab (5,000-12,000 Zanzibaris of Arabic descent) and Indian civilians were murdered and thousands more detained or expelled, their property either confiscated or destroyed.

      Currently this town is just full of it’s own character, and not being anything like other towns I have seen. But also touristy. And busy.
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    • Day 97–98

      Park Hyatt, Zanzibar

      April 8 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 81 °F

      Storm clouds permeate the horizon as a deluge lets loose around us. We tender to shore across a rolling swell, admiring the conviction of those aboard other small, uncovered boats. Navigating the winding streets, perhaps more accurately alley ways, we arrive at our hotel.

      Blending Swahili, Persian, Indian, and European influences, the former small palace of the Sultan of Oman has been transformed into a five star accommodation for these excited guests. Known as Mambo Msiige, or “not to be copied,” this mansion sits among the markets and Stone Town’s main attractions.

      After exploration and adventure, we enjoy local fare accompanied by live music. Drinks and music and friends carry us sturdily, late into the night.
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    • Day 2

      zLife Hostel Stone Town

      November 2, 2022 in Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      Nach einer Anreise von fast 24-Stunden fuhren wir mit einem Taxi vom Flughafen zur ersten Unterkunft - ein Hostel direkt in Stone Town, der Altstadt von Zanzibar City. Die Unterkunft überzeugte durch eine perfekte Lage, sehr herzliche Gastgeber sowie ein peppiges Ambiente. Leider war unser Zimmer aufgrund der frühen Anreise noch nicht bezugsfertig. Nach einem Becher Kaffee im Hostel, spazierten wir durch die kleinen, belebten Gassen der Altstadt. Bevor wir unsere Erkundungstour fortsetzten, ging es zum Check-In ins Hostel zurück. Nach einer kurzen Siesta, setzten wir unseren Stadtbummel in Stone Town fort. Im liebevoll dekorierten Café Africano stärkten wir uns bei Cola, Fanta, Massala Chips und Meatballs. Abends kehrten wir zu Cocktails, Zanzibar Curry und Bruschetta im hippen 6*South ein. Ein gelungener Abschluss für unseren ersten Abend in Afrika - Tansania - Zanzibar.Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Mjini, Zanzibar City

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