Tanzania
Same District Council

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    • Day 161

      Black-tea-coloured surprise

      May 26, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      The rear, single-piston brake calipers look better than the front ones. At least the rubber boots are not damaged and the pistons are retracting smoothly with slight force. After struggeling a whole day I managed to unmount the front calipers after applying Ballistol over night and with the help of a metal tube extension which I got from Indian guests from Dar. These guests also took the calipers back to Dar today in order to be refurbished at Eckhard's truck workshop (the German where I plan to leave my car once I fly out of Tanzania)! :-D

      Meanwhile I discovered another problem with my oil-dripping transfer gearbox. Apparently the seal of the front drive shaft is leaking around a teaspoon of tea-coloured, clean oil per night. When I return to Dar this will also be a nice task for Eckhard :-)
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    • Day 98

      Mambo

      March 24, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Here at the lodge they constantly employ some 17 villagers (as long as there are tourists ...) and whenever renovation work has to be done they make use of their professionals' network and rotate additional employees weekly in order to give others the chance to also earn some money. Most supplies are acquired in Mambo, water comes from the forest and power brings the sun.Read more

    • Day 99

      Home office?

      March 25, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

      Fight nature with nature: Toast à la Cheesus with onions, garlic, aromatic habanero and tomato for lunch (germ-free zone), polska szarlotka in the afternoons (Dagmara knows her business!), coffee all around the clock und nen guaden Grappa for sun set. Our night watchman patrols with a
      small brown sheep and the bush baby in the nearby tree always has an eye on me. Doesn't sound like the end of the world, does it?
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    • Day 100

      Back in time 30 million years

      March 26, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

      Since March 22nd I’m relaxing here on the spot and preparing my mind for the dawning apocalypse. Today I break out for a hike into Shagayu Forest Reserve (part of Usambara mountains) with the local guides Joseph and David accompanied by five dogs from the camp, of which three are Dagmara’s imported stray dogs from Morocco (all Poles I know are crazy about dogs!). We accomplish more than 21 km within seven hours and again I feel the past three months of sitting behind the driving wheel. Back home I will have to order a replacement element for my left knee on eBay :-P

      The path leads us from Mambo through monotonous pine and eucalyptus forests which have been planted by Germans and/or Brits during colonial times, primarily to obtain fast-growing firewood and building material. Already back then the natives’ settlement pressure was intense in this fertile and smoothly-climatised region that the whites feared to loose more and more of the precious, pristine rain forest. This is why they erected a wall of eucalyptus trees to denominate a border between cultivated land and the Shagayu forest which has been declared a forest reserve during the nineteenhundrets. This tree wall persists until today and looks somewhat strange. The locals say that this system still works pretty well as they are allowed to gather firewood from the pine and eucalyptus plantations any time whereas from the primary forest they may only collect dead wood which indeed is strongly controlled by the current government. At least they seem to have realised that this old forest is the only source for fresh water during the dry season. It even sources water during droughts when it does not rain for two years in a row!

      This "firewood thing" is really a problem. Tanzania is poor and has a huge population which uses wood and charcoal for cooking and heating all year long. Getting a hot shower in rural areas involves firing an oven. But in Zambia it is even worse! There the water reservoirs are depleting which also leads to hydro power shortages and whole Zambia’s economy and life seems to be concentrated around “where do I get firewood and where do I get charcoal?”. Even in Lusaka we experienced power cut-offs from early morning till the evening and running water was not available from 9 am to 3 pm. In their fuckin’ capital they cook daily lunch on charcoal! Here in Usambara mountains 30 % of the ladies are carrying veggies on their head and 70 % are carrying ... firewood. By the way, I don’t see any guys working here. They are just hiding or sitting around on crappy Chinese motorbikes (they say that they fall apart after one year).

      So, back to Shagayu forest: it’s nice, you should go there. Don’t fear any leopards, they don’t come any more.
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    • Day 103

      Pa pa!

      March 29, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Didn't expect to having been talking and thinking a whole week in Polish during this trip. After seven nights camping deluxe I say "Pa pa!" to my new family at the heaven's gate and descend via Lushoto (stopping for cheese, local coffee and jam) in direction to Mkomazi National Park which is north "just around the corner". The whole day submerges into a melancholic atmosphere. Why did I leave? Will I return one day? Maybe even very soon ...Read more

    • Day 128

      Caught in the mist

      April 23, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

      A week ago I arrived back home in Mambo where I moved into a tiny cottage. Every day I wake up at 0630 to glimpse in the direction of Kili but Kili is hiding most of the time and I fall asleep again. The night guard fires up the water oven after 0700 and I can enjoy a hot shower some 30 mins later. Most of the time I am covered in clouds and it is quite fresh (below 20 Celsius) with full air humidity which makes all bed sheet and things moist. Rainy season at its high tide, there is no escaping. One sunny day I had where I planted a small pine tree next to the main building.

      On sunday I was put on the waiting list of a Dutch repatriation flight to Amsterdam which is leaving today. I obviously did not get a seat and also I was very disappointed with the communication flow because the notifications have been sent yesterday where I would not have been able to get back to Dar in time anyway. Told this to the embassies on Tuesday already ...

      Two times I was asked to pull Philipp out of the mud as he got stuck with the organisation's car. That was fun! My Toyota is a tank and simply does not care about clumsy terrain. Philipp is a German volunteer working for the local NGO JamiiSawa in establishing a water board for the whole Usambara mountain region because the current situation is pretty chaotic (fucked up I would name it). He is surveying data about water sources in the forest, pipelines and about reservoirs and pumps near the villages. As destiny calles for me, I help him to bring all the geodata together in QGIS and will make another GIS warrior out of him. He did not realise yet but he is very motivated in working on his new profession :-D He studied industrial engineering in Braunschweig (lol) and is subscribed to an online master's of environmental systems in Berlin now. I am slowly soaked into the activities of JamiiSawa as well.

      We made pierogi twice and today we are working on the third badge, this time with cabbage. For lunch there is barszcz ukrainski and the next days gołąbki will complete our menu. There is no way to stop Dagmara in her business. I just got freshly baked cinnamon rolls served =)
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    • Day 151

      Bday

      May 16, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Means breakfast day! I get surprised in the morning with my beloved avocado eggs having two candles on top, with bean upgrade and coriander, guava juice and coffee! Everything is well cat-proof due to homeopathic doses of chili powder. All morning staff and the dogs join the visit and I start the day with sun in my face, yay!

      Meanwhile my folks far at home gathered around video conferencing tools to sing nightly Geburtstagsständchen and a warm-hearted friend of the Scotch Schölling family even composed a bagpipe song for me. Awesomeness! =)

      For lunch Jutta and Gerd from Lushoto join us. They arrived with Uwe and two Italian cyclist who also travel around the world for 6 years already. We have pizza with cheese crust and some beers in the sun. Dinner preparation is defined by a huge pierogi manufacturing chain. Yum, what a tasty day! From Dagmara I get a nice wooden carving of my Land Cruiser :-D
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    • Day 157

      Braking bad

      May 22, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Höhö. Last time in Dar I bought spare front brake pads. Even managed to find genuine Toyota parts! Yesterday I decided to "quickly replace the old ones" because this usually is no big deal. After removing the front left wheel I already saw that the right pad was unevenly used which indicates that one of the four brake pistons is stuck. The uneven pad would not have lasted the next descend to Mombo probably!
      Had this problem with my motorbike as well once where I managed to push the piston further out, clean it from the outside and push it back in. With the Land Cruiser it is much more fucked up. The piston only comes out when I brake with running engine and active brake booster. This already is a bad sign. Its outer rubber sleeve is punctured and the piston corroded. And after cleaning, there is no way to push it back in! We tried all possible levers but more force will only destroy either the piston or the disc. It also is unwilling to be turned.

      So, hmm, now I either have to refurbish the whole brake caliper here after ordering spare seals and even new piston(s). Or I send it to Dar for refurbishment. Or I find a refurbished caliper with fresh seals somewhere. First of all I'm going to also check on the right wheel's situation ... :-D

      Update: On the front right wheel it's similar: the inner lower piston is completely stuck as well and the upper will not retreat completely :-\
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    • Day 159

      Donald the deliverer

      May 24, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Donald openes his missile silos and launches a bunch of tiny black wasps (Braconidae) to infiltrate the next victims of his own kind while Bariati prepares dinner for 25 guests and I enjoy the sun in pleasant anticipation of the dinner :-)Read more

    • Day 154

      *meow*

      May 19, 2020 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Oh this cat! Around a month ago she was brought here from the other manager's home in order to catch some mice around the administration building, although being advanced in pregnancy. But directly in the beginning she disappeared and gave birth to her cubs in some hidden place. Not surprising considering the two to seven dogs strolling permanently around our premises.
      A few days after she reappeared but nobody was able to tell where the kittens were hiding. For many days we even didn't know if she still was feeding them because in our understanding she spent way too much time around the main cottage begging for food and just sleeping on a pillow. And she seemed to keep her milk. Later she got quite annoying and scavenged for days and days around the main cottage, peeked in every corner, under every part of the straw roof, meowing desperately as if in search for her babies. She also got more attached to us, demanding love and cuddles.
      We suspected that she stopped producing milk as her teats appeared to be empty. She had a favourite place under the roof where she constantly went during her searches and where I managed to crawl once but I did not find any traces of offsprings. Finally, we decided that her little ones must have been looted or that she rejected them.
      She calmed down and somehow decided to hang out most of her time with me now. Wherever I walk around the lodge, she follows me like a dog and keeps dancing between my legs so that I have to take care not to step on her or to kick her around occasionally. She likes to fall back and then, full of energy, she speeds like a cheetah, rushes up a tree next to me just to jump down again and meow at me.
      For a few days now she follows me into my cottage in the evenings and, after cleaning her coat and also licking my fur, she curls up into a warm ball of cosiness on my pillow, just between my shoulder and my ear, having no problem to stay there for 12 hours.
      Once she brought me a tick as a present and I burned it satisfyingly until it released a delightful "pff". We like each other. Apart from souvenirs from the bush she is very clean and good-smelling! She chases off any single dog or other cat and tries to disturb my telephone conferences in every manner by purring into the mic. During her most affectionate greetings she looks straight into my eyes, puts her ears to the side, her paws around my neck and attacks me by chewing and ripping on my beard and gently biting into my chin. Or is she actually trying to kill me? What a wonderful, delicate, mysterious, tiny, little creature! But, our claw-free adventure might soon be interrupted by some interesting news from the embassy ...

      Meanwhile I read some pages in "Born Free" by Joy Adamson where she describes episodes of a lioness being released into Kenya's wilderness and producing cubs there. In Joy's detailed narrations the lioness behaves quite similarly to my cat at hand - also seeming not to produce any milk during the early weeks while spending a lot of time in camp - and I have the feeling that our kitty still might be hiding her little monsters somewhere and that she's just a professional in deceiving all of us.
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