Baffin Bay

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    • Day 10

      Baffin Bay … Crossing to Arctic Canada

      August 7, 2022 ⋅ ☁️ 34 °F

      Our day was spent at sea, cruising through Baffin Bay … making the crossing from Greenland to Canada. We haven’t entered Canadian waters yet, however. Maybe later tonight or tomorrow morning.

      Just because we spent the day at sea doesn’t mean that we had a slow day. Not by any means.

      We got up at 7:00a to thick fog and northern fulmars flying around the ship. Since I’ve given up carrying a DSLR with a heavy, fast lens, I didn’t even attempt to photograph the birds. Just enjoyed their presence before heading down to breakfast.

      After our morning meal, I did something I’ve never done while on an expedition before. I went to the ship’s spa for a hot stone massage. I can easily say that it was the best I’ve had anywhere … on ship or on land. Mui was equally pleased with his treatment later in the day. Thank you, Desiree.

      Totally relaxed, I was ready for the rest of the day, which included a number of lectures — “Footsteps of Franklin: Into the Frozen Ice” … by historian Ken; “Permafrost: Frozen but Fragile” by glaciologist Jodie.

      The daily recap & briefing consisted of a number of mini-lectures — why penguins are found only in the Southern Hemisphere (with the Galapagos Penguin the only species straddling the Equator … by ornithologist Adrian; the building blocks of the Arctic … by marine biologist Sam; zooplankton … by biologist Sylvia, who brought the house down with her description of how barnacles mate.

      Christian, our Expedition Leader, wrapped up by saying that we changed course this afternoon to get closer to the edge of the sea ice. Later, during dinner, plates of broken up sea ice began banging against the hull as Ultramarine gently pushed them out of our way. Needless to say, we rushed through our meal to spend time on the outside decks to enjoy the experience that is always a highlight of polar voyages.

      Tomorrow is planned as an expedition day. What that means is that we don’t know yet what we will be doing. Our progress overnight and weather conditions tomorrow will determine what activities will be in store for us.
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    • Day 11

      Back in Baffin Bay Sea Ice

      August 8, 2022 ⋅ ☁️ 34 °F

      Heard some banging and clanging overnight, so obviously we came across more sea ice. It has slowed down our progress a bit.

      When we woke up this morning, we were still in Greenland waters … in the ice once more … slowly making our way through the broken up pans … the more distant ones veiled from our eyes by fog. We enjoyed the experience from our veranda for a while, then went off to grab breakfast.

      After our meal, we wandered the outside decks, checking out the ice views in every direction. We even caught sight of a distant but readily identifiable glimpse of a ringed seal, the favorite prey of the top predator of the Arctic … the polar bear. (I’ve attached an iPhone video of the encounter though it isn’t of the greatest quality.)

      The planned lectures luckily came up on the schedule after we left the ice behind. They filled up the rest of our morning at sea. First, “Photography 102: Modes for Capturing the Arctic” … by expedition photographer Dave. Next, “Frankly Speaking” … designed to introduce us to Sir John Franklin … by guest lecturer/historian Laurie.

      Our day remains fluid. Will we get to have an off-ship activity this afternoon or will we be attending more lectures? Still TBD. Mother Nature has not given us a hint of what she will allow us to do.

      In the meantime, time to grab lunch in the Balena Restaurant.
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    • Day 11

      Baffin Bay Ice Cruising

      August 8, 2022 ⋅ ☁️ 36 °F

      Mother Nature decided to give us a break this afternoon.

      At 2:00p, Christian, our Expedition Leader, came on the P/A system to announce a zodiac cruise amongst the sea ice littering the water around us. Yes! Time to bundle up with our woolens, fleece, and wet gear and head off the ship.

      Juani, who hails from South Africa, was our zodiac driver. Mui jokingly suggested that landing on an ice floe would earn her extra points. Dont’cha know? She found us a solid piece of sea ice, revved the engine, and thrusted the bow of the zodiac onto the ice! Seeing us, other zodiacs followed suit, finding their own landing spots.

      Once we resumed our cruise, we weaved in and out of the eroded bergs and ice pans, enjoying the amazing color of the ice … and the water. We even came upon a ringed seal amongst the ice. Juani, turned off the engine, so that we could quietly approach the animal without stressing it out. Great encounter.

      So happy that we managed to get off Ultramarine, if only for a short zodiac cruise.

      Tomorrow, if all goes well, we will be making land … in Canada.
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    • Day 17

      Nanoq Qaqortoq … For Real

      August 14, 2022 ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

      I’ve been teasing you with images of polar bears … in the form of a painting, a tail logo of an airplane, a wallpaper in one of the stairwells on the ship.

      Not this time. This polar bear — nanoq qaqartok in Greenlandic — is for real.

      We were at breakfast when the call went out over the P/A that there was a polar bear on one of the ice floes near the ship. Mui had already left; I was enjoying a cup of tea. I stood up to go outside, glanced out the window, and there it was. Right by the ship. Good … all I had with me was my phone … it would do.

      I walked out the access door to the outer decks — right behind the table — where I found Mui with his video camera in hand. No more than ½-minute had passed since spotting the bear. It was gone! Where? It had jumped off the floe and was swimming towards some distant ice.

      Disappointing that the bear didn’t stick around? Sure, but not nearly as disappointing for us as it was for those passengers who’ve not had close encounters already.

      By the way, the consensus amongst our resident experts, is that the bear was a young female.

      (Link for our bear encounters in Churchill, Manitoba … https://eenusa.smugmug.com/North-America-US-Can…)
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    • Day 16

      And the Saga Continues

      August 13, 2022 ⋅ 🌧 41 °F

      Seeing a lone iceberg glistening under the sun soon this morning was a good start to the day. That was at 9:17a. A little more than an hour later, the seascape grew misty … but the light was bright … the sun looked like it was trying to breakthrough. By 1:00p, the mist was gone … but the skies had grown overcast and dull. We even had some rain. At least the motion of the ocean, which was better than yesterday but still noticeable, calmed down further as the day progressed.

      This being a day at sea — and with not much more than expansive views of the blue waters of Baffin Bay stretching in every direction — there were a number of lectures on the schedule.

      Fabrice kicked things off with “Life in the Freezer: Birds and Mammals’ Adaptation to the Cold” … morphological, physiological, and behavioral. Ken followed with “Mounties, Mushing & Muktuk” … what was the RCMP doing up here? … how did they survive and what did they learn? … these were the questions he pondered. Finally, Dave presented “Editing the Arctic” … covering basic editing tasks he undertakes on pretty much every photo he snap … good tips, and especially useful since he uses the same software I use.

      But this isn’t the big story of the day that led to the title of this footprint. Nope, it surely isn’t.

      Having Christian invite us to the daily recap and briefing is something we’re used to. That he said he had important news to share about the charter flights didn’t sound bad. Something in the tone of his voice after he said “we have a charter flight,” however, suggested there was a “but” that he wasn’t sharing. I could hear the “virtual groan” reverberate around the ship!

      Here’s the short story … in bullets …

      * We have a flight on the 16th
      * Charter company cannot fly from Greenland to anywhere in Canada
      * Flight will depart Kangerlussuaq around 5:45p
      * Arrival Airport will be Niagara Falls International
      * Buses will take us to the Sheraton at Toronto Pearson
      * Arrival at hotel expected around midnight
      * Everyone must complete ArriveCAN again
      * Alternate arrangements for those who don’t have visas to enter the USA
      * Work session scheduled for those requiring ETAS to enter the USA

      There you have it. Another jiggle in the travel plan.

      For a minute, Mui and I thought about flying from Niagara Falls to Denver and skipping the bus ride. We quickly scratched that idea. Not only do we have a bag at the Sheraton, but our flight home on the 17th is already set. No need to further complicate things.

      We have two more days before we arrive in Kangerlussuaq. Could anything else possibly go wrong? Fingers crosssed that it won’t. Enough jiggles already.
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    • Day 17

      Baffin Bay Crossing: Day 2

      August 14, 2022 ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

      I wrote about our bear encounter out of sequence, so back to today’s story.

      Waking up to the banging and clanging as Ultramarine went through a band of sea ice had me jumping out of bed to enjoy the experience … likely our last time being in the ice on this expedition. It made taking a break to go to breakfast at. 7:30a difficult, but luckily I did or I might have missed our brief bear encounter.

      There was a bit more ice after we saw the bear, but by 9:00a it was all left behind. Clear waters ahead for Ultramarine to speed up in order to get to Kangerlussuaq on time.

      The rest of the day was filled with lectures — Jodie spoke about “Glaciers as Sculptors;” Wayne talked about the effects of climate change in the polar regions and the “Inuit Adaptations” to these changes; Adrian’s topic was “Feathers” … the small miracle that is the feather.

      There was a bit of fun, too … Colin hosted a Greenlandic beer tasting in the late afternoon.

      Our education continued with mini-lectures during the recap & briefing — Sam regaled us with tidbits about the top predator of the Arctic … the polar bear; Samantha talked about Arctic governance … underlining the fact that although there are a number of countries that have committed to supporting search and rescue operations in these latitudes, only one country has the wherewithal to actually conduct such activities … Russia.

      One last day at sea awaits us tomorrow.
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    • Day 1

      The shortest road

      January 12, 2018 ⋅ 🌧 3 °C

      I was wondering why the dawn kept shrinking instead of expanding as we flew west. Guessed we were flying a little north. Turns out we were flying a lot north. Shortcutting it over Greenland. While I was sleeping god dammit! Still caught some sheets of ice over Baffin Bay, so much more majestic in real life than on camera.Read more

    • Ein schneller Start

      April 29, 2018 ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Was bedeutet „SSSS“ oder wie komme ich möglichst verschwitzt ins Flugzeug?

      Antwort: Du wirst bei der Passkontrolle als besonders kontrollwürdig eingestuft (mittels Geheimeintrag auf Deiner Bordkarte „SSSS“). Danach darfst Du den besonderen, begleiteten und außerordentlich gründlichen Check-In-Service genießen - natürlich fern ab Deiner weiteren Reisebegleiter, die Dich am Duty-Free in Empfang nehmen sollen. Nachdem Du auch wirklich ganz sicher gehen kannst, dass Du nicht aus Versehen Opas Dynamit mitgebracht hast, darfst Du im Schweinsgalopp ans am Weitesten entfernten Gate sprinten und wehe Du hattest vor, etwas im Duty-Free-Shop zu kaufen - diese Zeit bekam man als „SSSS-Passagier“ nicht. Also ging es ohne Jim Beam um 11:00 Uhr los auf eine Reise mit dem Airbus A340-600.

      Mehr als 11 Stunden und knapp 10.000 km später geht der 33 Stunden-Tag in die zweite Runde:

      Nach Ankunft am LAX gehts mit dem Taxi für schmale 20 Dollar ins Super 8 Lax Hotel. Das Zimmer ist einfach, aber ok. Nach einem kleinen Spaziergang, der uns auch in ziemlich dunkle und dreckige Ecken mit reichlich Polizeiabsperrband führte, sind wir nach einem Abstecher an den Pool aufs Zimmer. Duschen, noch ein bisschen lesen und dann um 19.00 Uhr Ortszeit ins Bett. Um 00.30 Uhr war dann die Nacht zu Ende. Noch ein paar Bilder vom nächtlichen Hotel gemacht, die Lieben daheim angerufen und nochmal mit viel Vorfreude auf später das Licht aus... Man, sind wir gespannt auf unser Wohnmobil...
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Baffin Bay, Baffin's Bay, Baffin’s Bay, Baffins Bugt, Baie de Baffin, Saknirutiak Imanga, Море Баффина, Море Баффіна

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