Turkey
Bergama

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    • Day 92

      Die Ruinenstadt Pergamon

      August 25, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

      Die idyllische Bucht an der Ägäis muss nun ohne uns auskommen und auch die liebe Yildiz aus Düsseldorf. Sie brachte uns noch ein paar Leckereien zum Abschied, wir bleiben in Kontakt.
      Danach fahren wir 180 Kilometer weiter nach Norden und besuchen die antike Stadt Pergamon. Schon von weitem sieht man sie hoch oben auf einem steilen Berg liegen. Unterhalb hat sich die quirlige moderne und symphatische Stadt Bergama gebildet. Hier verbindet sich das Flair einer türkischen Landstadt mit grandiosen Zeugnissen der Antike.
      Geparkt wird an den Ruinen der „roten Halle“. Kaiser Hadrian ließ den einst mit Marmorplatten verkleideten Ziegelbau als Tempel für ägyptische Gottheiten errichten.
      Danach fährt uns ein einheimischer Taxifahrer den steilen Berg hinauf zur Akropolis.
      Wir verabreden eine Abholzeit mit ihm und tauchen in die Welt der „ alten Steine“ ein.
      Es gibt auch neuerdings eine moderne Seilbahn, die so gar nicht in die Landschaft passt. Wir aber wollten mit unserem Geld die Leute aus dem Ort und ihr Gewerbe unterstützen.
      Der Spaziergang durch die alte Welt mit ihren Ruinen war spannend und der Rundblick in die neue Welt grandios. Das berühmte Altarrelief besuchen wir irgendwann im „Pergamon-Museum“ in Berlin.
      Und die Stadt Bergama mit ihrem eigenen Charme, ohne Touri-Gedöns einfach zum Verlieben!

      Hier noch ein kleiner geschichtlicher Abriss:

      Pergamon, heute heißt die Stadt Bergama, war eine antike griechische Stadt nahe der Westküste Kleinasiens in der heutigen Türkei, etwa 80 km nördlich von Izmir.
      Während des 3. und 2. Jahrhunderts v. Chr. war Pergamon Hauptstadt des Pergamenischen Reichs, das sich über große Teile des westlichen Kleinasiens erstreckte. Unter der kunstsinnigen Dynastie der Attaliden, die bestrebt war, ein neues Athen zu schaffen, wurde die Stadt zu einem der bedeutendsten Kulturzentren des Hellenismus. Nach einer antiken Legende wurde das nach Pergamon benannte Pergament in dieser Stadt erfunden. Tatsächlich war Pergamon ein Zentrum der Pergamentproduktion.
      Pergamon lag am nördlichen Rand einer Ebene. Die Bebauung erhebt sich zu Füßen, an den Hängen und auf der Hochfläche der Akropolis, deren Kern aus einem etwa 335 Meter hohen, tafelbergförmigen Massiv aus Andesitgestein besteht. Der Burgberg fällt nach Norden, Osten und Westen sehr steil ab, während die Südseite über drei natürliche Absätze einen flacheren Übergang zur Ebene bildet.

      Pergamon gehört seit 2014 zum UNESCO-Weltkulturerbe.

      Zur Zeit des Neuen Testaments war sie die größte Stadt im westlichen Kleinasien.
      Ihre beeindruckenden Tempel, ihre Bibliothek und ihre medizinischen Ressourcen haben Pergamon zu einem renommierten kulturellen und politischen Zentrum gemacht.
      Das gut erhaltene Theater stammt aus hellenistischer Zeit und bot mit 78 Sitzreihen Platz für rund 10.000 Personen. Mit einer Höhe von 36 Metern ist es das steilste aller antiken Theater.
      Mir wurde ganz schön komisch, als ich auf der obersten Stufe sitzend, in die Tiefe blicken musste.
      Allein der steile, dunkle, enge Eingang zum Theater wäre für mich ein No Go, geschweige denn den Krokodil- Kämpfen zusehen zu müssen. 😅
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    • Day 41

      Bergama

      September 11, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

      In Bergama stossen wir wieder auf griechische und römische Ruinen. Die Stadt war in der Antike als Pergamon bekannt und gilt, so zumindest die Legende, als Ursprungsort des Pergaments. Der Ort liegt etwa 80km von Izmir entfernt und ist uns einen kleinen Umweg wert. Die Überreste der Akropolis, die auf einem Berg über der Stadt thronte, besuchen wir ebenso wie die "Rote Halle" und das Asklepieion.

      Erste Fund deuten auf eine Besiedelung bereits im 8. Jahrhundert vor Christus hin. Alexander der Grosse befreite Pergamon von den Persern; durch den Tod eines Herrschers von Pergamon kam Philetairos an die Macht, der die Stadt unabhängig machte und eine eigene Dynastie begründete, die Attaliden. Die Stadt vergrösserte sich mit dem Ziel, kulturell und künstlerisch zu einem zweiten Athen zu werden. Während dieser Blütezeit allierte sich Pergamon mit den Römern, bis ins Jahr 133 v. Chr.: Attalos III. verstarb ohne Nachkommen und vererbte die Stadt an das Römische Reich.
      Nachdem die Stadt unter den Tributzahlungen an Rom litt, folgte ein weiterer Ausbau unter Trajan und seinen Nachfolgern. Die Stadt wuchs auf 200'000 Einwohner an und war neben Ephesos und Smyrna (heutiges Izmir) eine der grössten Städte der Provinz.
      Mit der Eroberung durch das Byzantinische Reich fing der Niedergang der Stadt an. Bereits 1250 n. Chr. war der Burgberg nicht mehr viel als eine Ruinen.

      Mit dem Taxi fahren wir hinauf zur Akropolis und sind die Allerersten, die heute die Ausgrabungsstätte besuchen. Besonders interessant sind hier die diversen Tempel, die zu Ehren griechischer Götter gebaut wurden. Das Theater hat Platz für 10'000 Besucher und gilt als eines der steilsten aller antiken Theater. Eine Seilbahn bringt uns später wieder zurück auf Stadthöhe; zu Fuss geht es weiter.
      Bei der "Roten Halle" handelt sich um ein riesiges Backsteingebäude aus der Zeit des Römischen Kaisers Hadrian (117-138 n. Christus). Die ungewöhnliche Gebäudeart deutet auf die Verehrung eines ägyptischen Götterkults hin. Unter den Byzantinern wurde ein Kirchenschiff ins Innere gestellt; heute wird einer der Rundbauten als Moschee genutzt. Ziemlich imposant und für uns etwas ganz Neues.
      Im Asklepieion, welches etwas oberhalb der Stadt liegt, wurde der griechische Gott der Heilkunst, Asklepios, verehrt. Eine von Säulen gesäumte Strasse führt zum Komplex, zu dem auch ein antikes Theater gehört.

      Wir sind ziemlich früh unterwegs heute, um der Hitze zu entkommen; trotzdem hüpfen wir am Mittag von Schattenplatz zu Schattenplatz. Eigentlich war der Besuch der Asklepieion gar nicht geplant, aber ein Missverständnis mit dem Taxifahrer brachte uns dorthin. Deshalb sind wir erst etwa um 14.00 Uhr zurück im Hotel; glücklicherweise haben wir ein unkompliziertes Baby dabei. Das lässt sich auch auf antiken Überresten wickeln und stillen.
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    • Day 21

      Bergama: Kızıl Avlu

      September 23, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

      The Red Courtyard, as Kızıl Avlu translates from Turkish, is also known as the Red Basilica … or more commonly, as the Red Hall. We had all been to these ruins in Bergama on previous occasions. Nonetheless, we made a quick stop there after visiting the ruins of the ancient Asclepieion.

      The structure was once a monumental temple. It was built in the 2nd century AD … possibly during the reign of Hadrian. Its red brick walls were covered with colored marble. The columns of the stoas were carved in the form of back to back male and female figures … in the Egyptian style. This led archaeologists to believe that the temple was used to worship Egyptian gods — specifically Isis, Serapis, and Harpocrates.

      The hall was part of a much larger sacred complex that was surrounded by high walls. The complex was built directly over the River Selinus … a remarkable feat of engineering that included the construction of an immense bridge that channeled the river under the temple. This bridge, known as the Pergamum Bridge, is still in use today. The majority of the complex, however, remains buried beneath the buildings of modern day Bergama.

      The temple was converted by the Romans into a Christian church dedicated to St John but was subsequently destroyed. Our visit today took in the ruins of the main temple and one of the side rotundas. The second side rotunda is in use as a small mosque, which we opted to skip.

      The rotunda we entered is a big, empty building with an oculus in the center of the domed ceiling high above … a la the Pantheon in Rome, which was a Roman temple also built during the reign of Hadrian. Which might account for the similarity in style.

      The last time I was at this site, the entrance to the ruins of the big, red brick hall that is the primary attraction here was barred. Not that there is much to see inside, but being able to walk in and stand amidst the walls gives a whole new perspective on the height of the walls that remain standing.

      Completing our quick visit to the Red Hall, we strolled into the downtown area to pick up some Bergama Tulum, a cheese for which Bergama is renowned. A few other things — including tahini, helva with pistachios, and a loaf of rustic bread made from garbanzo bean flour — also found their way into the shopping bags!
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    • Day 66

      Pergamon

      November 9, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      In Bergama we stay with Metin, a generous dentist and amateur cyclist, who lets us use a spare room and kitchen in his clinic for two nights; it’s our first use of the ‘warmshowers’ program in Turkey and it’s really nice!

      On the nearby hill, dominating the valley, is the site of Pergamon, the ancient city where Greeks, Persians, Macedonians, Trace, Romans, Byzantines and a few more held headquarters of a once powerful city and state. Our visit is generously bathed by multiple interventions of rain, sun, and wind.

      On top of the hill, we admire a temple to the glory of Trajan the Roman emperor who was deified — what is left of his statue reveals that he did not mind the terrestrial goodies of Roman banquets ;-). An interesting feature of visiting ruins is that parts of the construction, originally intended to be hidden, are revealed: the huge podium supporting the temples was built on a multi-vaulted structure anchoring it on the rock, which is perfectly preserved.

      The most spectacular remain is that of a very steep Greek theatre carved in the hillside; sitting near the top row for a little snack, we can only imagine what it once was for a play, a singing contest, or a beautiful sunset. Rain kicks us off our daydreaming.

      Back in the city we visit the bazaar, manage to buy two pairs of socks, and stock up for dinner, including a stop at the “patiseri” — pastry shop. We joyfully share cooking and dinner with Metin and his old dad, who expresses his satisfaction with the roasted chicken thighs.
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    • Day 21

      Bergama: Breakfast @ Yeni Gün

      September 23, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

      This morning, the three siblings and Mui set off early with Murat in the driver’s seat. Our destination was the modern-day town of Bergama … home to the ruins of the ancient Greek city of Pergamum.

      For this outing, we were joined by Hakan and Serenay, my nephew and niece-in-law. Convoying with them allowed Deniz to jump into their car so that we could all enjoy the nearly 70-mile ride to Bergama in comfort.

      First on the agenda was breakfast at a small eatery, appropriately named Yeni Gün [New Day].

      Everyone in our party — except for us — had been to this historic breakfast place before. Thus, they knew that the first thing to do on arrival in Bergama was to pick up some fresh-out-of-the-oven gevrek [sesame covered bread rings] from a bakery before continuing on to the no-frills breakfast place.

      The owner of Yeni Gün is known as Eşref Amca [Uncle Eşref] to one and all. A veteran of the Korean War, I estimate his age to be around 93 … based on a 2020 newspaper article in which he was said to be 90 years old at the time. For the last 76 years, he’s been operating this breakfast place, which — as the story goes — was established by his grandfather some 120 years ago. As old as the place is, its location on top of the Tabak Bridge — which was constructed during the reign of Hadrian (AD 117-138) — is older by leaps and bounds.

      When we arrived, Eşref Amca was dressed in his “uniform” — a dark grey suit — and seated in a corner of the kitchen, overseeing everything. His age now precluding him from actively participating in the breakfast service as he once did, he is not able to converse much either these days … though he did appreciate Mui stopping by to say hello.

      Since the tables on the sidewalk were all occupied, we had no choice but to sit inside — simple marble-topped tables and wood chairs with thin pillows adding a bit of comfort … walls decorated, at the insistence of his daughter-in-law, with photos of Eşref Amca taken with famous people who have stopped by to enjoy his hospitality and breakfast over the years. A few newspaper articles telling his story and a letter from the South Korean President thanking him for his service during the Korean War were also framed and displayed on one wall.

      There is no menu per se. Nor is this a place for the “serpme kahvaltı” for which Turkey is renowned … a tapas-style breakfast with so many plates that it is hard to see the top of the table once everything is delivered. Yes, everything was served in small individual plates here as well, but the breakfast consists of a limited, pre-fixed selection of dishes.

      As soon as we sat down, one of the servers immediately showed up to serve us. Before we knew it, the table top was strewn with plates of clotted cream and honey, local cheese and butter, green and black olives, and a hard-boiled egg. A basket of fresh bread soon followed … though we only nibbled on it since we had brought gevrek with us. Turkish tea was the beverage of choice all around. Tomatoes and cucumbers and fried eggs were available for the asking … as was unpasteurized fresh milk, boiled hot.

      A simple breakfast … but everything was of top quality.

      Our tummies sated, we walked from Yeni Gün to where Murat and Hakan had parked the cars. Thus giving us an opportunity to see the ancient bridge on which it is situated.
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    • Day 14

      Pergamo e partenza per la grecia

      August 17, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

      "mai arrivare su un sito archeologico alle 13.30" così è scritto in tutte le guide turistiche. Noi, come da tradizione, arriviamo alle 13.30?!! Pergamo è meravigliosa, su una collina che domani tutta la valle. Fa obiettivamente un po' caldo e le ragazze cercano riparo tra i pochi alberi. Ma Pergamo è mozzafiato, con il tempio di Traiano e il teatro costruito sul costone della montagna. La sera lasciamo la Turchia per la (nostra amata) Grecia.Read more

    • Day 24

      Pergamon Teil 1

      November 4, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      Heute waren wir auf der Akropolis von Pergamon (heute Bergama). Zentrum der Ausgrabungen ist der Tempel zu Ehren des Kaisers Trajan. Ausserdem gibt es auf dem Gelände einen Zeus Tempel dessen Altarfries heute in Berlin im Pergamon Museum zu besichtigen ist.
      Das steht natürlich jetzt ganz oben auf unserer todo Liste.
      Wir freuen uns auf morgen, dann gehts zu den Ausgrabungen des alten Pergamon.
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    • Day 107

      Kozak region, Bergama, Cunda island

      November 14, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

      After breakfast, Peri, Wolfgang and started driving towards Bergama, a city about 30km inlands from Dikili. Again, I drove through the beautiful Kozak region, this time on a different road though. :) Along the road, we stopped in a little coffee shop where locals also sell their home produced goods. I also tried Adaçay for the first time: it is some kind of sage tea, in which you pour fresh lemon. The tea then changes colour from yellow to rather white.
      We continued our drive to Bergama and went up the Akropolis first, from there we had a really nice view on the city and even better - a huge lake with dam on the other side of the hill. We then drove back into the city, parked the car somewhere and strolled around exploring the area. I liked Bergama, the streets were pretty alive with lots of coffee shops where people were socializing, lots of stores for traditional goods (carpets, etc.), and Peri and Wolfgang would tell me a lot about the people's life in this less touristy place off the coast.

      In the afternoon, we drove back towards the coast, basically on the road from Dikili to Ayvalık that I already cycled, more specifically to Cunda island which is just off the city but connected through bridges. I didn't go there by bicycle so Peri insisted on showing me this place. ;) On the way there, we also stopped a nice viewpoint onto Ayvalık and the city. Initially, we planned on having a Turkish coffee or tea up there at the restaurant terrace, but it was incredibly windy and actually even cold. The first time realizing that I might have to buy some more warmer clothes and/or a warmer jacket at some point, I only had my thin wind jacket.

      Cunca island, like the mountain villages from the previous day, are places were rather wealthy people own their summer houses. However, Cunda city (that's were we went) is still quite nice with a little bazaar, little coffee shops and a nice seafront. I would have enjoyed the latter if it had been less windy. :D Peri was a little tired, so they stayed in the car while I was strolling around. I also enjoyed having some time for myself again. As much as I love meeting people and having company, after being a guest throughout my entire time in Turkey so far it's nice being by yourself sometimes. Usually, that's the time I spent cycling during the day but I wasn't cycling much while staying in Altınoluk. ;)

      Once we were back in Altınoluk, we went for a Mantı restaurant close by the couple's place and enjoyed having tea and conversations back at their place in the evening.
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    • Day 25

      Pergamon, Teil 2

      November 5, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      Das  Asklepieion von Pergamon ist ein Heiligtumskomplex, der für den griechischen Gott der Heilkunst, Asklepios, eingerichtet wurde.
      Eine fast 1 km lange Prachtstrasse führte von der Stadt zu dem Heiligtum.Read more

    • Day 9

      Pergamon Ancient Site

      September 6, 2022 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      Pergamon was a city that stood the test of time and was part of several influences. The greek made it a major cultural capital, but it was Hadrian, during the roman period, who made it a metropolis. There are lots of ruins giving a glimpse of the city that one was.

      “During the Hellenistic period, it became the capital of the Kingdom of Pergamon in 281–133 BC under the Attalid dynasty, who transformed it into one of the major cultural centres of the Greek world. Many remains of its monuments can still be seen and especially the masterpiece of the Pergamon Altar. Pergamon was the northernmost of the seven churches of Asia cited in the New Testament Book of Revelation”

      https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pergamon
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Bergama, Пергам, Pérgamo, برگاما, Pergamon, Pergame, פרגמון, Pergamum, Pergamo, ペルガモン, 別迦摩

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