Turkey
Çukur

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    • Day 148–150

      gaziantep

      February 10 in Turkey ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

      i spent the first half of the day in bed trying to figure out my next steps. also spoke to elias, the other german lad i met in izmir, about meeting up in pakistan. it's certainly quicker than going through russia, and that way i would be in india before the high summer hits.

      i then went out to see a bit of the city. antep has over 2 million inhabitants, and yet i haven't really heard much about it before. walking through the city definitely feels a lot different from other places like antalya, that's probably because i am now in kurdish territory. in the two days i was there, i saw a total of 3 other white people and 0 with blonde hair. you can imagine the stares.

      i still decided to go to a free museum i had seen on google maps and it turned out to be really good. it was an exhibition about antep's history, mostly about wars. to my surprise, there was a huge cave system in the basement where people hid out during conflicts, very cool to see.

      on my way back to the hotel, i saw a place selling pizzas. it looked pretty dodgy and it was pretty expensive for turkish standards, but i ordered one because i hadn't had any in months. good decision. also, for the first time, i saw street vendors selling pigeons out of cages and i was naive enough to think they weren't meant for eating. boy was i wrong.

      the next day, i started looking for an exchange office with iranian rial in stock, but none of them had any. i also tried to visit the famous antep castle, but it was closed due to earthquake repairs. i went back to the hotel, packed my stuff and set off towards the highway running through the city. not 20 minutes later, i was on my way again.
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    • Day 45

      Katmerci Zekeriya Usta

      October 19, 2021 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

      Katmer is a pastry dish made with very thin large circular leaves of dough that are folded over into a square. It can have a savory filling or a sweet filling. In Gaziantep, when someone says they ate katmer, they are referring to the latter … filled with clotted cream and pistachios, and garnished with a dusting of pistachios … often served with ice cold milk.

      Since we had dinner plans for tonight, we decided to skip lunch and just have a snack at one of the best known katmer cafés … named for its chef, Zekeriya Usta. (The word usta translates as master of or expert.)

      I had my first taste of the Gaziantep version of katmer in 2019. Frankly, I didn’t care for it much … too much clotted cream and over-the-top sweet. The version we had today was perfect for my palate … just enough filling and not very sweet.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Çukur, Cukur

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