North Tyneside

As predicted, it did rain all night, and was still rainy this morning so we made the unanimous decision to forego the 17 km walk and take a bus to Wallsend, the final destination and the eastern end of the Wall. And as we had the 50 minute ride on the bus, which wended it’s winding way with many stops, we were so glad of the plan - we went through almost entirely industrial areas which would have been tedious to walk through even on a warm sunny day. The walk for some part would have taken us along the river Tyne, but that would not have made up for it. Even the book said it was acceptable to do it!

So we arrived at Wallsend, still a little wet and made our way to Segedunum - “where Rome’s great frontier begins”. This is the site of the end of the wall and there is a museum there which we visited, and the site of a Roman fort, which had been covered over and built on over the centuries, but was unearthed when they demolished the old shipbuilders’ houses and we going to build high rise apartments when they discovered the Roman ruins underneath.

So we ticked the end of our walking ad Hadrian experience, and found the metro nearby, and took it here to Whitley Bay, a seaside resort suburb of Newcastle and very pleasant. Amr and I thought it was a bit reminiscent of Brighton (maybe all English seaside towns) with its row of houses with bay windows and to us rather charming. Many guest houses and we are staying at a lovely B and B, just up from the waterfront. This is the last one organised by the walk people, and have to say that each one has been faultless, and all different with their individual quirks. But all charming, with delightful hosts, and good rooms.

We arrived earlier than usual check in time, but Paul, our host, was fine with that, our bags had arrived, and our rooms were ready! So all was perfect. Paul had also agreed to do some washing for us, so we have handed him all our muddy smelly walking clothes and will have a clean start for Norway!

The 4 of us set off to check out Whitley Bay, it had stopped raining by now, and we found a place for a sort of lunch break. Then we had a wander along the waterfront. By now it was sunny (!), though quite cold and very windy. There was a visible wind farm out in the sea...Amr and I continued walking, quite a walk but our dose for today, along down the coast past Cullercoats, Tynemouth and towards North Shields till we came to a ruined abbey and castle and the mouth of the Tyne. Lovely in the sun (it is about 10° I think) and even the wind was invigorating. Just back now, having a quiet time till we all meet for dinner at a recommended Italian restaurant down the road at 7 o’clock.

From now on our bags are our responsibility....they have always arrived perfectly at our accommodations, but tomorrow we lug them ourselves on the metro to central station where we catch the train to Edinburgh.Read more