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    • Day 14

      Salcombe und Overbecks Garden

      July 6 in England ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Wir brechen wieder auf und ziehen weiter an der Küste entlang. Unser nächstes Ziel ist Salcombe. Ein kleines Fischerdörfchen das mit vielen Galerien, Shops mit Handmade Artikeln in ausrangierten Bootshütten, teuren Boutiquen und vielen engen und steilen Gassen aufwartet. Sehr viel Charme, viele Menschen, noch mehr Hunde. Aber irgendwie hat das ganze was. Und dazwischen immer die Möwen, die permanent auf einen Happen hoffen. Ich frage mich ernsthaft, wo die evolutionstechnisch noch landen, wenn die sich die nächsten Jahrzehnte weiterhin überwiegend von fast food ernähren.

      Als Gegensatz zu den quirligen Gassen kurven wir danach über Straßen, die wir in Deutschland allenfalls als Fußweg bezeichnen würden, bis Overbecks Garden. Aufgrund des subtropischen Mikroklimas gedeihen dort Pflanzen, die wir, wenn überhaupt, nur als Zimmerpflanze kennen. Leider ist es schon wieder kurz vor 16h und so kommen wir nicht mehr in den Genuss eines entspannten Nachmittagtees. Es war dennoch sehr schön.
      Das Übernachtungsziel ist eine Campsite vom National Trust. Ich bin gespannt.
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    • Day 23

      Falmouth und Salcombe

      August 12 in England ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

      Es geht zunächst nach Falmouth. Was für eine tolle Stadt. Das Chainlocker ist ein Muss für jeden Segler. Dann weiter nach Salcombe, damit bin ich in Devon angekommen. Eine schöne Stadt, touristisch aber authentisch, mit mehr Schlauchbooten als Einwohnern.Read more

    • Day 13

      Walking - Day 7

      May 16, 2019 in England ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Today's Route - Bigbury-on-Sea to Salcombe
      Distance - 23.3km
      Beers Earned - 7.2
      Weather - sunny, hazy and very windy

      Similar to yesterday, today's walk started with a river crossing. It was only a short stroll from Bigbury-on-Sea before our steps were halted by the River Avon, the same non-Shakespearean Avon that we encountered when walking across the moor last week. On the moor we crossed it via a clapper bridge but here at the mouth of the river we need a ferry.

      Finding the ferry point was easy but attracting the attention of the ferryman, aka a local guy with a tiny boat, wasn't as simple as the last crossing. The instructions in the trail guide stated "wave and yell" ... so we waved and yelled at nobody in particular ... and someone on the other side eventually waved and yelled something back ... and then we looked blankly at each other and wondered what to do next.

      Many minutes later we spotted someone in a little boat about 60m downstream, waving and possibly yelling. So we waved back, no yelling, and trudged in that direction. There were a couple of other walkers also heading towards the boat from the opposite direction ... safety in numbers, if this guy wasn't the ferryman it would be 4 against 1 to commandeer his vessel. Lucky for him, we didn't need to overpower him and force him to take us across the river ... 5 adults and a dog named Biggles safely crossed the Avon. Money changed hands.

      The first part of the walk was a gently undulating cliff top walk against a 25-30km head wind. Luckily the wind was coming across the water so if it was going to blow us off our feet we'd land further inland rather than being blown off the cliff. Other than the wind, it was a straight-forward stroll to our lunch stop at Outer Hope.

      Leaving Hope Cove the trail took us away from civilisation and the gradients became increasingly severe. The afternoon was a visual feast of high cliffs soaring over mostly inaccessible coves. Lots of ups, lots of downs, lots of zigs and an equal number of zags ... it was a very tiring section.

      We arrived in Salcombe and found our B&B, which was at the top of yet another steep hill. Shower, dinner, sleep ... it's a rest day tomorrow.
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    • Day 14

      Rest Day #2

      May 17, 2019 in England ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      Today's Route - Limited to local wandering
      Distance - A very low number
      Beers Earned - Perhaps Beers Consumed would be a more relevant stat
      Weather - cloudy and drizzling

      Salcombe is an interesting town ... full of penthouses, holiday homes and hotels. A rich guy built himself a large holiday house here in the mid 1700s, other well-heeled folk followed his lead and large houses were gradually built at all the best viewpoints on the cliffs and shore. Facilities for visitors were much improved by the removal of the noisy, smelly shipyards in the late 1800s and the town slowly evolved into an exclusive holiday resort. The streets are littered with wealthy retirees driving, and very badly parking, incredibly expensive luxury cars. We were tempted to buy some yatching attire to distract from our lack of plummy upper-class accent.

      Other than being a sophisticated pleasure ground for all the Lord Snooty-Bottoms and their friends, Salcombe is nice place for a rest day. We ambled around, learned about the history of the area and poked our noses into a few places before the drizzle set in. We were forced to seek shelter in the pub with the picture window across the estuary. Such a hardship.
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    • Day 821


      August 22, 2020 in England ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      On Sunday we walked across the headland into Salcombe which was quite busy but not over crowded. We then followed the SWCP back around the Bolt Head headland, the coastline was very spectacular. We completed over 12 miles in all and stopped off at "The Station" on Bolberry Down to enjoy an evening with the Quicks. A great bbq was provided and the wine and beer flowed. A most enjoyable day.
      On Monday we returned to The Station in the afternoon where we provided the bbq. A little less wine and beer was consumed, possibly due to the celebrations the day before.
      On Tuesday Kirsty joined us for a walk and we repeated the Hope Cove walk. Storm Francis was blowing hard and it was quite difficult at times to keep straight on the high ground as the gusts were ferocious.
      We thoroughly enjoyed our few days shared with Matt's family and look forward many more joint experiences in the years ahead.
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    • Day 820


      August 21, 2020 in England ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

      We spent five nights at the Karrageen site at Bolberry, west of Salcombe.The last couple of miles to the site were via very tight Devon C roads and we were anxious not to meet any large vehicles coming in the other direction - quite nerve racking. We came here to meet up with Kirsty and Matt together with Matts immediate family who had rented a property on Bolberry Down.
      We completed a couple of walks whilst we were there - on Saturday we wandered into Malborough to pick up the Saturday paper then crossed fields to Hope Cove where we enjoyed our picnic. There was great activity on the beach and in the bay. We then returned to the site via the South West coastal path, the views from the Down were impressive.
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    • Day 11


      June 10, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Today has been absolutely incredible. The stretch from Bolt Tail to Bolt Head was so scenic and pretty easy walking. It is absolutely one of the highlights of the whole path, couldn't recommend it as a day walk (between Salcombe and Hope Cove) enough. Even had my favourite interaction with anyone (or anything) on the journey yet, a rather dashing cow. Now to kick back with another 8 twisters, a beer, 4 donuts and a baguette because why tf notRead more

    • Day 475


      September 11, 2019 in England ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Staying on a lovely CL with great views of the counryside around Kingsbridge estuary.
      We walked across the hills into Salcombe, which is a lovely town on the side of the estuary, a very popular holiday destination and full of very up market homes on the waters edge and high on the valley sides. The town is very boat oriented. We enjoyed a tea and coffee at a harbourside cafe/bar and watched some very large and small sea bass feeding in the shallow water below us. As tempting as it was to get the rods out the estuary is a designated nursery area for sea bass which accounts for the number and size of the fish enjoying life in their safe haven.
      The next day we set off for a walk across the fields and valleys to our south to pick up the South West Coatal Path at Soar. We enjoyed a great walk along the cliffs back into Salcombe via South Sands where we enjoyed a cuppa in the old lifeboat station on tables mounted on the old slip way. The ferry into Salcombe from here was busy and the moving pontoon interesting to watch as it trundled down into the sea.
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    • Day 65

      Soar Mill Cove

      December 28, 2020 in England ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

      Stormy start
      Walk down to Soar Mill Cove
      Met woman with dog - "what a corker", "yes, bit a looks like a shower is coming", "well, it's what happens"
      Cows block the path
      Wide views of the sea
      Flock of small birds over edge of cliffs
      Few people on the beach
      Tide out
      Robin greeting me in adjoining field
      Walk onto beach over babbling brook
      Explored the beach, caves at the back
      Cove in a great bowl of rock, high and jagged on either side
      Two great rocks on the beach
      Picked up a small stone with rock and spar
      Seagulls sailing above
      Seaweed on the sand
      Walked up other side and sat on outcrop looking back down the coast eating lunch
      Very cold wind
      Sea crashing on rocks below, white froth
      Carried on round rock outcrops past flowering gorse
      Walked up to high outcrop
      Surveyed the views up and down the coastline
      Sheltered behind high standing stone as a storm passed.
      Walked back down to Cove
      Decided to wait for the sun and was rewarded by a kestrel passing
      Sun arrived giving stunning views down coastline
      Cloudscapes over the sea
      Walked back down to beach with tide coming in.
      Man carries tree trunk driftwood
      Family fire
      High waves rolling in, with wind blowing water back off the tops of the waves, backlit by the sun
      Leave the beach and sea chaffinch on fence, which then flies into adjoining field.
      Walk back up to headland with more views back down the coast
      Blackbird flies out of gorse and over the cliff edge.
      Sun gets low on horizon, backlighting more cows
      Sun sets over sea as driving home and near full moon rises beautifully into blue sky..
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