Lewis and Clark County

Kindness. On the route to Helena I noticed it passed by one of the famous places on the GDMBR, the Larma Lodge, owned and run by trail angels Barbara and John. Barb bought the place before the American Adventure Cycling Association (ACA) published the route. When she started to see cyclist pass by her ranch, she started offering water, food and her ranch as a place for cyclists to camp. Her kindness and generosity towards cyclists on this route grew when she purchased her first cabin, offering it free to passing cyclists. In 2015 John rode the GDMBR, and after 17 years (now as Barbara’s partner) is the longest staying cyclist. When I arrived at the ranch Barb and John were just leaving to go into town for supplies, leaving they said to help myself to the porch, grab a cold drink, sandwich and relax in the sofas. My cabin had all be labelled for me as they were expecting a lot of cyclists that day. On entering the porch the fridge was full of soda, beers and a box of fresh sandwiches. A true welcome. Sitting on the sofas about 20 other cyclists also turned up that afternoon. What a great atmosphere. When Barb and John returned their home was littered with cyclists, they didn’t seem phased at all. In fact quite the opposite, they welcomed it. Their “fee structure” as John spoke to us, was everything is free, they don’t take payment for anything, the only thing they ask, is that we pass on the kindness. It is their way of making a difference through us. Truly inspiring people. I headed to the field, seeing a multitude of different lodges all self contained. On entering the red lodge with my name on, I was presented with a stocked kitchen with dried foods, coffee, tea, two bottles of wine and MnMs!! Each cabin having its own solar charging points and beds, with clean sheets and pillows. Total luxury. In the morning no one really wanted to leave such a wonderful place, but the Divide was calling us. Heading back on the road to Montana’s capital Helena. It’s now day 15 and my front rotor has bent on my bike from the downhills, so it is in the shop in town to get fixed, forcing me to take my second zero day to explore the city. Nestled half-way between Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks sits the Gates of the Mountain, so I booked a boat tour down the river to see the “heart of Montana”. Back on the road tomorrow, but until then, I’ll enjoy my next 24 hours out of the saddle and reflect on the true kindness shown by people so far on this journey.Read more