United States
Prairie Avenue Historic District

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    • Day 4

      Thundering Through The Night

      May 25, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      The Lake Shore Limited follows some of the nation’s most beautiful shorelines, combining scenic beauty with interesting history. It traverses the shores of Lake Michigan, Lake Erie and the Mohawk River.

      Our train had an extended stop at Albany, the State capital of New York State. Given the limitations of the onboard buffet, I sought refuge in the station cafe. Here in Albany, the Boston and New York sections of The Lake Shore Limited meet. Then on to Syracuse - named after a city on the east coast of Sicily - it reminded me of the Rodgers and Hart’s 1938 musical The Boys from Syracuse. What wonderful songs in that show - Falling In Love With Love, This Can’t Be Love, You Took Advantage of Me, and Sing For Your Supper. Why does no one do these wonderful shows any more? Another musical memory came in the shape of Buffalo on the eastern shore of Lake Erie. Shuffle Off To Buffalo from the musical 42nd Street seemed appropriate somehow.

      Stops at Cleveland (setting for the musical Curtains) and Toledo, Ohio came during the night. Surprisingly I got a reasonable sleep, although I had a Marx Brothers moment trying to master the various levers to adjust my seat into a reclining position.

      I read that the train route between New York City and Chicago was once the apex of luxury travel with glamorous trains such as the famed 20th Century. Passengers boarded after walking on a red carpet and dined on lobster on fine china in the dining car. By contrast, my breakfast consisted of a chewy microwaved bagel which might have been manufactured by Wrigley’s, accompanied by a tube of cream cheese which was impossible to open, until it squirted everywhere - apart from on the bagel! Still the coffee was good as I awoke to the cornfields of Indiana. Attractive clapboard houses lined the track, many proudly displaying the Stars and Stripes.

      The musical references keep coming. Elkhart, a town people say was the inspiration for Broadway’s hit, The Music Man was known as the Brass Musical Instrument Capital, and the first U.S. produced cornet was made here. We whizzed passed Gary, Indiana but I refrained from doing a Winthrop - too early in the morning for that!

      We had to put our watches back by one hour, having moved from Eastern Standard Time to Central Standard Time. Running late by 2 hours, the Lake Shore Limited finally limped into Chicago’s Union Station at 11.45am after a journey of over 20 hours.

      The entry into Chicago was not in the least glamorous - miles of gas and industrial works lined the tracks and the station itself looked dingy. That is until I got into the Great Hall of Chicago Union Station which was magnificent. I felt like Dorothy walking out of a dark nightmare and into a beautiful fantasy world. What a fitting welcome to the Windy City!
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    • Day 5

      I Just Blew In...

      May 26, 2019 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

      ‘Chicago, Chicago, that toddlin’ town…’ so sang Judy Garland on the double LP (yes, LP!), Judy Live at Carnegie Hall, which was the first birthday present Campbell gave to me. At one point she forgets the lyrics, but keeps singing ‘…and I forgot the goddam words’. On arrival in Chicago as I exited the station, the first thing I saw was a bus destined for Cicero, and noted that the musical Chicago has just ended a run here - how cool would that have been?

      What a magnificent city this is. Situated on the shores of Lake Michigan, it has fabulous architecture and lakeside gardens giving it the air of a capital city. It is clean and safe - not a St Valentine’s Day massacre in sight (as in Sugar - one of my favourite shows). First stop for me was Millennium Park - a real buzzing atmosphere and family friendly where live bands play nightly in summer for free. Got photographed at Cloud Gate, the huge Bean sculpture - one of the many attractions in the park. Next went up the Willis Tower (formerly Sears Tower) which was the tallest building in the world for 25 years. Plucked up courage to sit on the glass ledge on the 103rd floor - never again!
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    • Day 5

      ...from the Windy City

      May 26, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      On my 2nd day in the Windy City I got up early and fought through several hundred members of the North American Chinese Basketball Association to get breakfast at the hotel. I then went on a 2 hour guided walking tour of Architecture from the Golden Age of Chicago. It was an excellent tour showing how the citywide had literally risen from the ashes after the great fire of 1871 which had destroyed much of Chicago. Our tour guide was very knowledgeable but reminded me of a rather dishevelled Paddington Bear, with his floppy hat and blue coat. By the shape of him he had enjoyed too many marmalade sandwiches. One of my favourite buildings was the Wrigley Building, gleaming white and built for the chewing gum magnate William Wrigley, Jr, which sits at a jaunty angry at the Chicago River. We visited the interior of the fabulous Palmer House Hotel (where Magnolia and Ravenal in Show Boat lived before moving into a cheap rooming house when he lost his money gambling). Another highlight was the Chicago Cultural Centre which houses the world’s largest Tiffany dome - gorgeous. Another Tiffany masterpiece can be viewed on the amazing mosaic ceiling of Macy’s Department Store on State Street (sings ‘that great street’).

      I decided to opt for one of Giordani’s famous deep-filled pizzas for lunch, but the one that arrived would have fed a family of four. It was delicious but although I tried my best I had to get a doggy bag after only 2 (very deep-filled) slices. Next a visit to the wonderful Art Institute of Chicago - a real treasure trove - highlights for me included Seurat’s ‘A Sunday On La Grande Jatte’ (the basis for Sondheim’s ‘Sunday in the Park With George’), and of course ‘American Gothic’ (as reproduced beautifully at Eastwood by Marie-Claire and Kevin in The Music Man).

      Being a train lover, I was keen to take a trip on the Chicago Elevated Railway - known simply as ‘the L’ - which started in 1892. It goes round a city centre loop and then branches off in different colour coded directions. I got off at Belmont station to have a look around, only to find myself in Boys Town - the official gay district - where street crossings are painted rainbow colours and the whole area has a party atmosphere of music, bars and restaurants. Being a very hot day, I was tempted to quench my thirst in a large bar whose windows were open to the street, only to discover that the bartenders were big, burly male go-go dancers clad only in tiny leather thongs who appeared to gratefully accept dollar bill tips in their butt! I decided to opt for McDonald’s instead.

      Finally a trip to Navy Pier, a 3,300 foot long pier on the Chicago shoreline of Lake Michigan. It was a great fun place to visit, with lots of attractions including a carousel and fun fair, as well as countless bars and restaurants. I enjoyed a walk right to the end of the pier with its ballroom and great views over the lake. What a great two days I have had in the Windy City - so much to see and do - and definitely recommended for a visit.
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    • Day 6

      And All That Jazz

      May 27, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Last Chicago pics - I love this town!

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    Prairie Avenue Historic District

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