Giants stairsAugust 6, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
You can only imagine the sound of the waves in a storm.
You can only imagine the sound of the waves in a storm.
We saw the Orr’s Isl-Bailey Isl cribstone bridge this morning and were suitably impressed before we turned and headed to Boothbay. (Built in 1927, the granite stones are held in place only by gravity. The openwork allows tides to flow through. It is the only bridge of its kind in the world, and is a Nat’l Hist Landmark and Nat’l Hist Civil Eng Landmark).
We had toyed with the idea of staying at Bailey Isl, but it was a very short hop from Potts Harbor, and no moorings were available for our boat length. We decided to make a push to get some distance in. We sailed around 20-25 miles today.
We headed out to the open seas, to 1-3’ swells, survived a crash of the navigation system (not a big deal, we have our paper charts), and argued over whether the display should show North Up (me) or Course Up (David). (I just took matters into my hands and changed it when he wasn’t looking, because we all know North Up is more sensible.) We also saw The Sisters (N43.44.60’ W069.43.60’), a few rocky outcroppings that must have the names Leigh, Cynde, and Lisa.
The closer we got to Booth Bay, the bigger the swells. We had our mainsail up for a while to see if that would help stabilize the boat, and it did, a little. Once the swells got bigger, to 4’ or so, it didn’t seem to help that much.
Fun things included seeing several seals and a couple of porpoises, one of which was only about 10’ from our boat. Then David threw up (not sure why, I’m the one who seems to be suffering from seasickness and is using the wristbands and Dramamine, but ok) but then he felt better.
Rain started during our last hour or two, but was never heavy. We are now snug at our mooring and warming up with a cup of tea.Read more
A fellow sailor and his wife, Barbara and Tim, were tied up near us and having problems with their engine. Tim, by his own admission, was not well schooled as diesel mechanic, in fact his plan was to stay on the dock until wind enabled them to sail off home sans engine. I suggested it may be his seawater impeller, he said “that may be outside my skill range”. I said “it’s relatively easy” and he agreed to try. It was then when Barbara chimes in: “you go ahead and try, I’ll pray for wind”. Barbara had a notebook of sorts and appeared to be keeping notes on all of the action. Turns out it was the impeller and i had a spare but it didn’t fit so they decided to sail, much to Barbara’s relief. As I helped them off the dock Barbara shouted back: “there’s a surprise under the cushion on you deck”. Turns out she wasn’t taking notes, she’s an artist and to thank us she painted a scene from the harbor. Thanks are always an unexpected grace, we don’t do things to be thanked, but every once in awhile you experience and incredibly graceful gesture. ✌️Read more
Adm. Peary bought this island for $200 soon after he graduated from Bowdoin College. He had always loved the island since visiting as a boy. He built the original house in 1912, then added on to it after recognition for discovery of the NP. Luckily his wife loved its wild remoteness too. Most often they used it as a summer home, as it only had a wood stove for heat, although they tried living there thru a couple of winters. Also, Adm. Peary raised Angora rabbits on the island after he retired.🐰Read more
We waited out the morning fog at Cliff Isl, then lifted anchor around 1:45 and headed out the Eastern side of the cove on our way to Eagle Island. We stopped there and were met —at our boat!! —by John, asst. ranger at the State Historic site of Adm. Matthew Peary’s home. He took us in to shore and we spent the next couple of hours exploring the home (built to resemble a ship, with portholes) and learning more about his discovery of the “geographic” North Pole (not the magnetic one which was found to be in a different place). It is a beautiful island, and I really think it will fit the bill for the one I want. 🤓 We also saw a nest of ospreys. I think the staff there is a little lonely, as they were each very talkative. But at any rate, they also allowed — David — yes, David— to sit and play the player piano that was on the ship the Roosevelt while they took their little jaunt up to the Arctic. I am sure that any day now the curator of the Smithsonian will come by there and will shut that little perk down, especially after they see that David was allowed to do it. The docent had the piano play Scott Joplin’s Maple Leaf Rag, lots of fun.
After leaving Eagle Island (there are no eagles there anymore, by the way) we sailed to Dolphin Marina, in Potts Harbor, on the Harpswell Neck (nearest city: Brunswick, Me). We have already made fast friends with Owen, Master Dockhand and bartender, and have met the marina owner and Sean and John, bartender and bar back , respectively. They have bikes and kayaks we can use, and areas to hike. Also, they have the “Reversing Falls,” which we have to check out. David already wants to stay an extra day.Read more
Tonight we did eat at Erica’s Seafood and it was everything you want in a lobster shack. Good food, good conversations. Afterwards, we saw the sun desperately trying to peek through the fog, and a heron fishing. I enlarged the picture so that you could see the heron, so it is a little grainy. He is at the lower third of the picture, just left of center.Read more
This was our second morning at Dolphin Marina in Potts Harbor. They bring fresh, warm blueberry muffins and coffee to each boat every morning!
It was rainy and foggy yesterday, so we borrowed the marina’s courtesy car and drove into Bowdoin to get some supplies (so, no, we did not sail the boat to Bowdoin like it shows on the map!). David had to spend most of the afternoon tracking down a computer chip for the charts on our MFD; the installer mistakenly kept it after loading the charts, and it will be needed in order to get Canadian charts. We are now having to wait at least til tomorrow (Thursday) for it to arrive.
This morning was still foggy. We tried to see the Reversing Falls at mid-tide but we were a little too late. We will try again this evening. Instead, we took the dinghy onto the northern side of Basin Pt., (the other side of this bay). David tried fishing, without much success, so we then went to a deserted island where we saw an EAGLE, 🦅 which was very exciting (Cynde, you would have loved seeing that!). We also heard a couple of loons but couldn’t see them. After we came back, we went for a short bike ride, then spied another eagle at the top of a nearby tree, so sat and watched for a half hour, hoping to get a good shot when he flew off. Then he flew off and we couldn’t get the camera in time. Of course.
This evening we plan to get lobster rolls at a nearby fish shack, where we watch the lobsters being unloaded every day.
(Later this evening...) fog started rolling in before we could go to the Reversing Falls, so we will try tomorrow morning. The Reversing Falls are a small dam in an estuary. The water reverses at the change of tide direction.Read more
Can you believe we have to endure another day of this because the part for the boat won’t get here until Friday 😩
Note the boat in the background attached to a clothesline, so they can move it in and out according to the tides!
You might also know this place by the following names:
Town of Harpswell