Aktepa

After a 4-hour train ride I am back in Tashkent. No mistake in explaining to the driver my destination; it is the Hotel Uzbekistan, all 16 storeys of it in this low-rise city. And here's another thing about driving: it's common to ride in unlicensed vehicles, a practice deemed dangerous in some countries where unscrupulous drivers with accomplices rob the passenger, maybe by taking him or her to an ATM and forcing them to take out money. Here no one worries about this and it's quite acceptable for the driver to pick up other passengers en route. As usual the dangers come from not wearing seat belts and other practices.

The Hotel Uzbekistan dates from the Soviet era, a sort of Eastern Richard Seifert building (viz. Centre Point and others in London). Time was when I hated buildings like this but I rather like it now. The first picture shows the hotel in the background with Tamerlane mimicking the selfie taker, and the third picture is a view from the top floor with masonry in the foreground. I am drawn here from it featuring in a recent BBC programme "Race across the World" in which the contestants, trying to get from London from Singapore as quickly as possible, use Tashkent as one of their bases.

In blistering heat (a good 35C) I ride back to the southern station the next day (I would have missed the connection had I tried it on the same day). Seeing me looking lost, a helpful lady serves green tea in the so-called Tourist Room. Then it's time for the night train to Khiva. It's not luxurious but my place in a 4-berth compartment is acceptable and Advantour have answered my request to be placed in a lower bunk. Outside, a mysterious clink clonk sound is that of the man swinging a hammer at the wheels to check the wheels. No problems and we're on our way for the 14 hours westward.Read more