Uzbekistan
Uzbankinty

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    • Day 5

      Doprava v Samarkande

      September 12, 2019 in Uzbekistan ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

      V predchádzajúcom príspevku som vám nespomenul, aké pohodlné možnosti vedia ponúknuť samarkandské dopravné služby.
      Vlaková stanica má na oko krásnu architektúru, no z nej sme sa hneď po zložení batožiny pohli ďalej. Už z predchádzajúcich ciest sme vedeli, že zohnať vozidlo pre šiestich pasažierov nie je problém. No nechceli sme sa opäť tlačiť, a tak sme nasadli na električku, ktorou sme sa zviezli bližšie ku centru Samarkandu; to bola len polovica cesty za miestnymi pamiatkami. Nasledoval prestup na jeden z miestnych autobusov, ktorý nás dostal bližšie ku Registanu.

      A o zážitok bolo postarané. Plne obsadenému dopravnému prostriedku sme sa jednoducho nevyhli.
      Tlačenka v preplnenom autobuse bola horšia ako v rannej košickej R4. Patrikovi sa však podarilo mať exkluzívne miesto pri vodičovi, a ako to on opísal na svojom profile https://instagram.com/patrick_shed/ - cesta bola nezabudnuteľná. Vodič stihol vybaviť niekoľko telefonátov, zahrať si hru na smartfóne, s umením nezraziť ľudí pri plynulej premávke, ktorí skákali do cesty fakt z každého smeru.

      Po nádhernom čase, ktorý sme strávili v Samarkande, pokračovala naša cesta smerom do Buchary a návrat na vlakovú stanicu, takmer v podobnom scenári ako pri príchode. Autobusový sprievodcovia majú na jedno talent. Dokážu vás presvedčiť, že už v plnom autobuse sa stále nájde zopár ďalších miest. A tak sa tlačka vol. 2. mohla začať 😃 Našťastie to netrvalo dlho.

      Napriek týmto obmedzeniam, doprava samarkandskym autobusom nemusí byť vždy zlá.
      Pri prestupe sa nám podarilo vojsť do takmer prázdneho vozidla, i keď pod vplyvom presviedčacích spôsobov sprievodcu vetou, že bus ide smerom na stanicu, aj keď v skutočnosti nešiel 😃 - “Vokzal! Vokzal!”
      Nakoniec sme nastúpili a neoľutovali. Bol to partybus ako sa patrí 🥳 Vodič rýchlo pochopil, že sa nám hudba z jeho rádia páči a neváhal ju zosilniť na celý bus. Bola to cesta, pri ktorej som viac levitoval ako sedel na sedadle, no nakoniec sme bezpečne dorazili blízko ku staničnej budove.

      Naša výprava pokračovala rýchlovlakom do Buchary, kde začína ďalší príbeh ;)
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    • Day 30

      Samarkand - City of Tamerlane

      June 14, 2019 in Uzbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

      Samarkand is strategically located along the Silk Road and has been continuously occupied for at least 2700 years. Set at a trade crossroads and fed by the Zerafshan River, stories of its exotic offerings reached far and wide. Alexander the Great visited in 329 BC (when it was named Marakanda) and remarked that everything he'd heard about it was true except that it was even more beautiful than he'd imagined.

      The numerous historic sites (most of which are reconstructions and/or restorations) certainly provide a glimpse of what the city might have looked like in its heyday. The city has been destroyed and rebuilt a number of times over the course of its history, as different rulers made their mark. Much of the architecture evident now was commissioned by Amir Timur or Tamerlane the Great, who considered himself "Conquerer of the World". Seems he did a pretty good job and it's been estimated that his warring campaigns led to the death of 17 million people. He was also a great patron of the arts and was known to spare the lives of talented artisans so he could bring them to the city to improve and beautify it.

      Our first stop was in fact to the Tamerlane's Tomb, located in the Gur-I-Mur complex. He would have preferred to have been buried near his home in Shakhrisabz but Samarkand was considered more appropriate. His body lies in a crypt below a huge tombstone of jade and amongst family members and his spiritual advisor (presumably not everyone died at the same time!). The interior was truly magical - golden ceiling and walls, decorative sanscript.

      The Registan is considered one of the most dramatic architectural ensembles in Central Asia. Comprised of a central square, with 3 madrasahs (Islamic schools), the size (35m columns), colourful domes and top-to-bottom tile work make it quite stunning. Originally a market area where 6 city roads met, it was later used for military parades and public executions, while the Bolsheviks used it for political rallies, trials and veil burnings. The madrassas were built separately over a period of 300 years, with the first commissioned in the 15th century by the grandson on Tamerlane, Ulegbeck, a renowned scientist and astronomer (and leader). The Registan looks even more spectacular at night, when flood lighting creates wonderful contrasts.
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