Bai Chay

After navigating the South China Sea (East Sea, to the Vietnamese) and the limestone islands, we spent today in Ha Long Bay. We slowly got into the dock after a very long entrance because of the maze of islands and junks to get past. You can see from the photos that it was misty grey day but that gave these islands, that are all named, more character.

You might ask, where is Ha Long Bay? It is in North Vietnam, and only 106 miles from Hanoi. Hanoi has about 3 million people and was run by Ho Chi Minh from 1954-1969. Ha Long Bay was also the site for many naval battles and the Vietnam war -- a story for another time. As you know, the US bombed Hanoi in 1965 until 1975 when North Vietnam took control of all of Vietnam. Hanoi is an industrial and agricultural center but more than 75% work for this Communist government. Economic policies that are open to companies making money here has attracted investments in the last 30 years.

The Bay has been a World Heritage site since UNESCO in 1994. We spent our day in a very different environment from Hanoi, filled with history and culture in Ha Long Caves. Ha Long (where the dragon descends to the sea) is famous for its 2000 islands in the water and hundreds of small mountains with caves on land next to the sea. The grottoes and caves is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994. The names include Heavenly Gate, Tortoise Rock, Man Head Rock, The Isle of Wonders, Tea Pot Rock, Elephant and Devil's Face.

“Where the dragon descends to the sea” comes from a story about the area being attacked by northern invaders. Local settlers prayed and asked the sky god for help who subsequently sent a dragon that stomped down on the earth with such force that mountains crumbled, forming large valleys that soon filled with water. Only the peaks of the mountains, now these rocky islands of Ha Long Bay, remain above the surface. Halong Bay and the surrounding area are made up of this thick limestone, which began forming during the Carboniferous period, around 340 million years ago. Ahhhhh. (Note: I read a few other dragon stories of how these islands were formed but I think this one sounded most "realistic".)

After cruising the bay in a Junk and hearing stories and myths of the area, we began to see some of the “famous” islands, known for their many stories and their shapes, creatively looking like animals and scenes. Here is the most famous story about the “Chicken Chickens”. Note: in the next post you will see this evening we received gifts shaped like these two rocks made from coal.

The Halong Kissing rocks are thought by many not to be fighting chickens but rather a rooster and hen kissing that represent the test of time and their belief in eternal love. It is located in Trong Mai Islet 3 miles from Bai Chay Wharf where we left from. The islet stands at about 30 feet above sea level, and according to some, the two chickens have stood by each other for thousands of years, representing the steadiness of faithful love.

There is a traditional folk story told by the Vietnamese that talks of the origins of Vietnam. In this story the highest God in Heaven, Ngoc Hoang, sent a ferocious dragon mother and her children to help the early Vietnamese fight off foreign invaders (maybe the same ones that created all the islands). When the war was won, Ngoc Hoang was surprised that the dragon mother and her children did not return to heaven and sent two chickens to bring them home. The chickens were so taken by the beauty of Halong Bay that the two chickens themselves fell in love and forgot the mission that Ngoc Hoang had given them! From then on they remained in Halong Bay and over time petrified and turned into stone.

The other highlight of the day was the visit to Dông Thiên Cung, the Heaven Palace Cave of the Dragon King and his Queen. This cave which has been part of legend for generations, was lost to the jungle covering it until 1993 when it was rediscovered. The way up to Thien Cung Cave is through a winding pathway of steps, surrounded by thick jungle. The cave is a dry cave and is a complex inner structure with high ceilings.

The legend of Thien Cung Cave says that it was the ancient home of a Dragon King and his Queen. The Dragon King and Queen had a wedding at the heart of the cave, attended by mythical creatures. After the marriage, they had 100 children and lived in the cave while the King protected Halong Bay’s inhabitants from invaders. When their 100 children were grown, half of the children remained in Halong Bay as its guardians and protectors, and the other half left to help the rest of Vietnam. We could see (with a little help) all the creatures and animals that came to the wedding.

A fun adventure that was incredibly beautiful as the light shines in from all different directions and openings and entrances/exits to the cave.Read more