Sông Trà Lĩnh

After two days riding, Don and I met up with Hans in the eastern city of Cao Bang. It's a fairly large city and is the provincal capital. It's located in the middle of the province, on the banks of the Bang Giang River. The ride from Meo Vac to Cao Bang was fairly easy, after Don and I sorted out our route. We left Meo Vac and drove in completely the wrong direction, on a twisty mountain pot-holed road, in a heavy drizzle, for a good 15 km before figuring out our mistake! Hans could see us on the map (thanks to Google location sharing), and texted and called, trying in vain to reach us. Oops. Well, an hour later we were finally heading in the right direction.

Our ride took us on a lovely, wide, well-banked and well-maintained road. We headed up and over a high pass, shrouded in mist, dropped to a river valley, and then went up and over several more passes until the air became tropical, where we stopped to take off a layer. We drove through villages and construction sites, slowed for kids getting out of school, and water buffalo crossing the road. At a coffee stop on our second day, we happened upon a praying mantis that was at least 8 or 10 inches long. It was just sitting on the concrete floor of the open air cafe. I desperately didn't want anyone to step on it, but just as desperately didn't want to touch it. So I kept my eye on it and shooed away the dogs that were very curious about it. Just as we were leaving, as I clapped my hands at the dogs and shooed them off, a local woman walked by and I pointed to it. She was wearing a traditional dress we hadn't seen before -- a white headscarf, slacks, white blouse. She reached down and plucked it off the ground, holding it fairly gently right behind its head. The praying mantis was fluttering its huge wings and waving its 8 legs. It was almost clacking. She held it up to me; I shook my head and started laughing. She started laughing and tried to put it on my shoulder, but I shrieked. The woman's friend and everyone else in the cafe started laughing as well. Howling! I could only imagine what they were thinking: how could this person be afraid of bugs? She then tossed the praying mantis in the air, it fluttered off, and we both continued to laugh.

Anyway, the waterfall. The Ban Gioc waterfall is one of the world's wonders. It's river marks the border with China and is about 80 km north of Cao Bang. It consists of two waterfalls on the Quay Son River. The water drops 98 feet and is separated into multiple falls by the topography: rocks and trees. The ground all around is wet, and it feels like it's raining (in addition to the actual rain)! And it's thunderously loud.

Standing on the Vietnamese side we saw tour boats circling one another as they made their way up to the base of the falls. Upon reaching shore Hans immediately said, 'Let's go!' and hobbled down the gang plank to the next boat out. It was great fun. We sat right up front and were often within arm's reach of the people on the Chinese sister boats. Our boat made it right to the base of the falls and we all got damp in the mist. As our boat swung back around it came within three meters of the Chinese shoreline. Don and I wanted to jump ship to see what might happen, but Hans' voice of reason called us back.

Once back on land, we helped Hans get settled at a cafe, then wandered through the stalls looking for gift-y things. No go, but we had a good time shopping and playing with the cutest puppies ever. Once the rain lifted, we walked back out to the waterfalls to admire the cascades.

And little did I know, my days as a regular run-of-the-mill tourist were just about to end. I was approached by a woman in a bright red Vietnam t-shirt, with a yellow star on the front, and 'Love Vietnam' on the back in yellow script. She was waving her phone, and beckoned me up to a monument marking the border. At first, I thought she wanted me to take her picture. But, no. She wanted me to be in her selfie. Within minutes, a dozen of her friends, all wearing identical t-shirts, were posing with me. Then group shots! I am going to be all over Instagram and social media, I just know it.

After a stop at a Bhuddist temple overlook, and a stop at the border (where we almostblost Don!) we lingered over a looong lunch. On our way back to Cao Bang, we stopped at a small village, famous for its knife making and other forging skills.

Definitely a highlight day. I didn't even know it was on my bucket list, but it was definitely one of those places. I loved waving to the Chinese tourists, and also seeing the joy of the Vietnamese tourists. People love their country here, and are so proud of its beauty. And they seem to embrace tourists.

It's a wonderful place to travel.

NancyRead more