Tháp Bà Pônaga

New-to-us Port #49.

Today, not only did we visit our last port of call in Vietnam, but it was our last day on mainland Asia. From here on out, we’ll be visiting the island nations of this continent.

Our 12-hour day in Nha Trang started off hot and humid. To make the most of the “cooler” hours, we were off the ship as soon as it was cleared and on the first shuttle for the 1/2-hour ride to the drop off point at the TTC Hotel in the city.

The plan was to do some sightseeing in the morning and go to a beach in the afternoon. To that end, once we were off the shuttle, we took off on foot to visit the Long Son Pagoda, using the map provided by the shuttle host to guide us. In hindsight, the walk to the temple had nothing of much interest along the way, though it did give us glimpses into local life. But as hot and humid as it was, perhaps it would have been better to hop in a taxi and save time and steps. Oh well.

We arrived at the temple grounds around 11:15a … only to be told that the prayer hall was closed until 1:00p … due to a festival that is taking place this weekend. Instead of just waiting around, we decided to climb up to the Gautama Buddha statue that sits atop Trai Thuy Hill. The 152 steps to get to the top were easy enough to ascend … particularly since we had time on our hands and could take it easy.

At step 44, we detoured to a terrace to see the reclining Buddha … good photo-op, but also a catch-your-breath opportunity. The statue is set against a wall decorated with a relief of monks. I have since read two conflicting descriptions about the figures. One says that they represent the monks who died protesting against attempts by the government during the 1950s to rein in freedom of belief. The other says that they are 49 of Buddha’s pupils assembled on the day of his death.

When we finally got to the top, we found the 78-foot tall Gautama Buddha sitting on a lotus flower … raised off the ground by a pedestal. Turns out that the pedestal serves as an altar room. Finding the entrance on the back side, we peeked inside before wandering back down to the temple.

Long Son Pagoda, considered the oldest temple in Vietnam, was first built in 1886 … in another neighborhood of Nha Trang. At that time, it was known as Dang Long Pagoda. This temple was heavily damaged during a typhoon in 1900. It was subsequently moved to its current location and renovated and expanded. During the Vietnam War, the temple was once again heavily damaged. Repair work ensued to save the pagoda, using the original Taoist design of the 1886 temple.

It wasn’t quite noon yet when we got to the prayer hall. Yes, it was still closed. But a quiet request to the caretaker gave us entrance for a quick look-see before continuing on with our plans.

Next, we took a cab to the Po Nagar Cham Towers Temple Complex on the opposite shore of the Car River. The iconic sandstone towers were built between the 7th and 12th centuries. Only four of the original eight towers have survived to this day. Still a place of worship for the Cham, Chinese, and Vietnamese Buddhists, it is believed that the site was first used for worship as far back as the 2nd century AD.

From where the cab dropped us off, we began our visit to the complex by entering through what would have been the meditation hall. Today only 10 of the hall’s pillars remain … impressive nonetheless. A photo op here and there, and then we walked up the steps to the area where the towers stand.

With its terraced, pyramid-shaped roof, Thap Chinh (the North Tower) — which dates back to 817 AD — is the most impressive of the four towers. The altar inside is also the most elaborate. In 918, the reigning king placed a gold mukha-linga (carved phallus with a human face painted on it) inside the tower. It was, however, taken by Khmer raiders. Other statues were placed and similarly stolen until another king, in 965, replaced the gold mukha-linga with a stone figure … which has remained to this day.

From the towers, we moved to the back of the complex where we strolled through the gardens … beautiful with ponds and statues tucked into nooks and crannies … and a small museum. It was very peaceful back there … and the shade was most welcome.

Leaving the Cham Towers, we hopped in another cab and went to the Nha Tho Nui Cathedral. Alas, we’d dallied a bit too long at our first two stops and the church was closed when we got there at 1:00p. Oh well.

Time for some R&R … which I will write about in the next footprint.Read more