Thị Trấn Mèo Vạc

This is our fourth day in Meo Vac, the northern city that is not far from the Chinese border. It is surrounded by steep mountains, and is at the bottom of the Mai Pi Leng Pass. The pass is a 22 km stretch of winding road known as the Happiness Road. It took 11 months to build and was completed in 1950 by ethnic minority and Vietnamese youth. The Youth Monument, a colossal statue built on the side of the road commemorates the effort. The pass is almost 5000 feet high and looks down into the turquoise water of the Nho Que river.

Hans took a spill a few days ago and rested up while Don and I explored. Don has been eager to get as close to the Chinese border as possible, so we were delighted to discover the road to China. It split off from the Happiness Road and switched back down to the river in tight curves. We crossed the river and followed the road as it rose steeply and steadily up and up, over another pass and another. As soon as we crossed the river, however, the macadam dissolved, replaced by stones and mud. I followed Don as he carefully and impressively picked his way through the dirt. Up and up and up. 

But China was not to be. About 6 km from the border, we hit a small guard house and 2 representatives of the Vietnamese military. Just one look at us, a shake of the head, a hand gesture indicating 'turn around now' was all it took. I did pause and ask if I could take a photo, but another firm shake of the head told me that we should get out of there fast, before they asked for papers.

We were able to enjoy our ride down a bit more, stopping to admire the river, at least 1000 feet below us, waving to the kids walking home from school, gawking at the villages, and gasping at the spectacular scenery.

Before heading back to Meo Vac, we decided to ride up to the Mai Pi Leng Pass. The road hugs the limestone cliffs, with sudden and severe several thousand foot drops off to the right, so as a driver, you really have to be on your toes. The view is absolutely stunning, into Vietnam's narrowest river canyon, so we made sure to stop plenty of times.

There is a path called the Sky Path that leads into the many small villages above the road, so we found the start of it, and promised to return the following day. It lead up from the road, into the green mountains. Definitely worth the effort.

It was legendary. The path runs somewhat parallel to the road, but in some places is at least 1000 feet above the road. I think we did see all the way into China. Part of the road is scooter-able, part is a pedestrian path only (though I'm sure that at least one hapless tourist thought it might be a good idea to try it). The trail took us up and over several passes to small villages where laughing children ran away from us, hiding. We saw rural life in sharp relief. Parents working in the fields, teens doing reluctant chores, phone in hand, and the smaller kids minding the goats and cattle. Amazingly, we did not run across any other tourists walking on the path. The entire hike took about three hours, truly magical.

I'd like to pause for a minute here just to comment on the riding skills I saw first hand on this extremely narrow path with steep drop-offs and sharp turns and a descent angle of at least 10 percent. First off there's usually more than one person in the scooter. A family with a bunch of kids, teens, a couple. Second off, there's usually some load as well. A bag of cement, an enormous bundle of firewood, building materials, bags of this and that, propane cannisters. You get the picture -- overloaded. And finally, the drivers are coasting, gliding down the mountain as if they're on skis. When they reach the up slope, they coast along until the bike slows, then pop it into gear, and take off.  It's truly impressive to see.

The pedestrian part of the path led us along the base of the white cliffs. We happened upon four goats, bells around their necks tinkling. A girl passed us, in traditional Hmong dress of a brightly colored heavy swishy skirt, leggings, plastic sandals, and a blouse. She carried a small bouquet of daisies she'd picked and looked as surprised to see us as we were to see her. The trail took us down hundreds of steps, through another small village and past kitchen gardens of lettuce and corn, back to the road, where we picked up our scooter.

Epic.

Now, we're on our way east, heading to Cao Bang, to see the waterfall on the Chinese border and Ho Chi Mihn's cave. Hans will come by car. My last day of riding is tomorrow, as I'll ship my bike back to Hanoi and head back to Hanoi by car with Hans. He's off to get his knee checked out by a doctor.

Until next time!Read more