The Power Trip Down Under

October - November 2006
I've wanted to see Australia and New Zealand, since my parents visited there a few years ago. I also wanted to get another continent under my belt, so I managed four weeks off of work to make my dreams come true.
  • 33footprints
  • 3countries
  • 34days
  • 1photos
  • 0videos
  • 21.2kmiles
  • 19.1kmiles
  • Day 1

    Packed and anxious

    October 26, 2006 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 34 °F

    I'm packed and am sure I've forgotten something. It will come to me in the middle of the night, while I'm trying to sleep one last time on my comfy bed. I was slightly alarmed to find out Denver is under a winter storm warning and "hazardous winter weather conditions are imminent or highly likely." There's only 3-12 inches of snow predicted for tomorrow. Why didn't I become a weather forecaster? Anyway, it's not supposed to last through the afternoon, so the 8:25pm flight should be fine. It's the connections that become the problem. I am flying into LA, out to Sydney, then catching a flight down to Adelaide. I do not have fond memories of driving down to DIA, from LaPorte, for my trip around the world. DIA was shut down due to fog, and I had to wait another 24 hours to get out. I'm hoping to avoid a repeat on this international flight. We'll see....Read more

  • Day 3

    Set foot on Continent 6

    October 28, 2006 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    I made it to Australia. (A note to my sister...that's the sixth continent I've tramped. Looks like I'm ahead!) I traveled just over 24 hours to get to Sydney, then my plane was delayed to Adelaide. I finally arrived at my destination 28 hours after leaving DIA. Although, with the weather before I left, I'm just glad I made it. My good friend, Sharon, took me to the airport in Denver, and I reminded her that she could be going with me. She said she was glad she wasn't going because she had a bad feeling about it. "So you can tell the media, 'I just had a bad feeling, I mean, I'm sorry Dana died in the crash, but I'm glad I listened to my intuition.'" We laughed, but it made me a little worried about the flight, so you can imagine my delight when we touched down safely in Sydney! I had to hop a transfer bus to the domestic terminal to catch my flight to Adelaide. I believe in serendipity. I got on the bus and listened to the radio station. The B-52's came on, "Roam if you want to, Roam around the world..." And everything was all good.

    I am only spending the night here and will catch yet another flight tomorrow to Kangaroo Island. When I arrived at my hotel the clerk warned me that it was daylight savings time and I should mind my watch. The comment seemed absurd, since I had no idea what time is was and I felt as though I'd been travelling for days. Not to mention, Adelaide is on a half hour time zone. Does anyone really know what time it is?
    Read more

  • Day 4

    Off to Kangaroo Island

    October 29, 2006 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    I left Adelaide early this morning to catch a flight to Kingscote, on Kangaroo Island. The flight was quick, and it took no time to get in my rental. I was relieved to see it was an automatic, given it will take enough energy just to stay on the LEFT side of the road. As I begin my drive, I'm grateful I'm starting my driving here. There is no one on the roads. And I mean no one. Then I jump. I'm completely startled the first time I see a car driving the opposite direction on the "wrong" side of the road. Unfortunately, there are so few cars, I'm startled every time I see one. I have to constantly think, "Stay left, stay left."

    I first go to the Emu Ridge eucalyptus farms. Fascinating how they make the oil. Saw some emus, too. I see how the theory was developed wherein birds are direct descendants of dinosaurs. I buy some gifts and head for Clifford’s Bee farm. There's no big, red dog, but lots of bees. Of course I do a lot of sampling, and I walk away full. Did you know that the taste of the honey is dependent on the type of flower from which the bee receives the nectar. I bought two bottles to bring home, which taste completely different. I've never noticed. I tried to drive down to a bay, but the roads were too bad to tolerate, and I'm just not that excited about the view.

    I head west and stop at Seal Bay. Way cool. They take you right down to the sea lions and I took about 100 shots. And I thought the Alaskan bears were interesting. This was an incredible experience. Did you know that a female sea lion stays pregnant for 17 months?

    I tear myself away from Seal Bay and head to Flinders Chase Park. This is a national park and where I have decided to camp for the night. In the parking lot of the Visitors' Center I see my first wallaby. He (could be a she) is very cute and none too shy. I snap a few pictures and take off for the Remarkable Rocks. The ocean view is breathtaking on the way. The rocks are actually an old ball of lava that welled up and has been eroding ever since breaking the surface. They are very old and very dramatic, sitting on the cliffs overlooking a sparkling blue sea.

    I drive to the Admiral's Arch from the Rocks. I take a hike then swing around to see that I've just walked over a limestone bridge, under which I am now standing. The limestone seems to drip into the air, and New Zealand fur seals sunbathe on the other side of the hole. I notice the sun is starting to lower, so I drive to my camping spot. I've secured a tent spot in the "bush" at a place called Snake Lagoon. After pitching the tent, I have a thought: "Brenda Reece lived in Red Rock Ranch, thusly named because of Red Rocks. Regina Marette lived by Woodmoor Lake, named because of the water. And I'm staying at Snake Lagoon." OK, so that was a bad thought. I end up taking a walk and see two kangaroos. They are small here because this species can't get too big on a little island. The walk is nice, and I return to The Lagoon. I've renamed it.
    Read more

  • Day 5

    Kangaroo Island

    October 30, 2006 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    I slept dreadfully last night. Apparently the male koala's call, "is a shrilling yell, comparable to any scary movie." And they're not kidding. It was a blood curdling scream in the middle of the night. Thank goodness I read about this before I went to bed.

    I spent the day following a driving tour. Saw lots of cool things and ended at the Cape Borda lighthouse. The tour guide was terrific.

    I drove into to Kingscote to use the library's internet, change money, and eat some fish and chips. I leave here in the morning to Adelaide, then drive up the coast to Melbourne. Looking forward to some humanity. It has been quiet on the Island. Did get on the wrong side of the road today, with a car coming. Oops. Live and learn.
    Read more

  • Day 6

    Halloween

    October 31, 2006 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    The answer is "Yes," they do have Halloween in Australia. I didn't see any trick or treaters, as I drove all day. I did, however, listen to great radio all the way across southern Australia. I drove from Adelaide to Warrnambool, which took about 8 hours. Most of the drive was two lane highway through pastoral lands. This area is having a bad drought, so most of the land is brown. I was going to drive to Portland tonight, but I was just too tired. I've made a good dent in the drive to Melbourne, so tomorrow won't feel so rushed. I'll be driving the Great Ocean Road tomorrow, which requires driving near cliffs and staying on the proper side of the road.Read more

  • Day 7

    Breathtaking Beauty

    November 1, 2006 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    I got an early start, which is a good thing. I definitely underestimated the time it would take to get to Melbourne via the Great Ocean Road (GOR). It's not so much the distance, as it is the stops one makes along the way. I pulled out of Warrnambool at about 8am and headed east. The drive is uneventful at the beginning. I came to my first car park and turned. Up to this point you could not see the coast from the road, so I was expecting the usual ocean, waves, beach view. As I crested the hill, I was stunned at the beauty of the area. Now I truly understand what "breathtaking" means. It is so incredibly beautiful that it stops you in your tracks. The ocean is colors of turquoise and dark blue, with limestone towers jetting out of the shallows, against a backdrop of clear blue sky. I'd seen pictures of the area, but they do no justice to the true nature. I spent at least 30 minutes, walking, smelling, staring. It is unbelievable. I must have gotten awfully lucky, as it's been a little cloudy since I've been here, and today is absolutely clear.

    I finally tear myself away, knowing this is a minor scenic outlook on the GOR. I can't even imagine how incredible the next 200 km will be. And I'm not disappointed. I spend most of the day with my mouth agape at the scenery. I do a lot of hiking and climbing to get the best photos, knowing that the uniqueness will not be reflected in the pictures. The most popular sight is the 12 Apostles. It is a group of limestone pillars along the coast. As I walk between a couple viewing platforms, something turns my attention to the outcroppings to the left. I look through my binoculars and see five penguins out on the ledge. Now there are a few hundred people around and I'm pretty sure I'm the only one looking at penguins. Finally, I stop a passerby with a really big camera lens and ask how strong the lens is. I point out the area, and sure enough, they really are penguins; and not little fairy penguins. These are full on "March of the Penguins" penguins. I watch them for a while, then it's off to more sightseeing.

    By the end of the GOR, I am really tired and realize that it is still a long way to Melbourne. Because my flight leaves early tomorrow morning, I really need to get there, so I head through the rainforest. I declined to stop at the waterfall stops, given I'm in a little hurry and knowing there will be time for many more of them in the next few weeks.

    I roll into to Melbourne at 7pm and am not camping. I find a hotel, do some laundry, and call it a night. I leave for Tasmania tomorrow morning.
    Read more

  • Day 8

    Looking for the Devil

    November 2, 2006 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    I've made it to Tasmania. I am so grateful for the weather yesterday. It made the ocean viewing perfect. Today is cloudy with rain. I landed in Launceston this morning, got my rental car and found the internet cafe. Internet access is not so easy to find, so I thought I better catch up on some entries while I had the chance. Plus, with the weather, I'm not too excited to get moving. I had planned to hike and camp for the next five days. Hmm, might be changing the plans.

    I'll be meeting up with some friends at 1pm, then I'll head down the eastern coast. I had planned to camp at Freyicent National Park tonight, but I'll see how the weather goes.

    I'm on the lookout for Tasmanian Devils. They are nocturnal, so hopefully our waking hours will overlap at some point. Cheers!
    Read more

  • Day 9

    Now That's a Penal Colony

    November 3, 2006 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    I got up early and hiked to Wineglass Bay. I was the first person on the trail (0646) and was the first one on the beach. I love these Aussies. There's no fooling around with them. The beach is on the other side of a steep mountain. They apparently don't believe in switchbacks, so it was stairs all the way up and over. Goodness, was I tired afterward. I rested on the beach for quite a while, then back up and over the mountain. The views are awesome. The rain was temporary yesterday, and the sun is back out today. I returned to my campsite, took a shower, and put on shorts for the first time on the trip.

    I drove down the eastern coast and arrived at Port Arthur around 3pm. Port Arthur is one of the first penal colonies in Australia, but it was for the worst of the worst. It was their SuperMax. Because the colony is on a peninsula, there was no way to escape other than to swim, which most couldn't, or run across a small landmass, but that was guarded with ferocious dogs and armed guards. There are approximately 30 buildings and ruins left. There was another island off the coast, Point Peur, which was the first juvenile prison in British history. It was actually focused on rehabilitation, teaching each juvenile a multitude of trades, providing education, and instilling morals through worship. The youngest offenders were 9 years old!

    I also bought the Port Author Ghost Tour, which was a little scary. After dark you walk through numerous buildings and the guide talks about ghost sightings. Apparently, one of the buildings was rated one of Australia's most haunted by the ABC (Australian Broadcasting Co.). No ghosts; but, I did get a little adrenaline going a few times.

    Tomorrow I'm heading into Hobart for the outdoor market and fish on the pier.
    Read more

  • Day 10

    Geology and Fish

    November 4, 2006 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    A little advice: don't go on a ghost tour and then sleep alone in a tent. I freaked myself out all night, which was only made worse by the screaming koalas. Note to self...

    Before I left the peninsula this morning, I stopped to view a few rock formations in Tasman National Park. Because the coast is formed of limestone, the cliffs have eroded into many different forms. I went to Tasman's Arch, which is a hole that has worn into the interior. Hmm. Harder to explain than I thought. Anyway, it was a big hole with ocean waves banging through it. Then there was Devil's Kitchen, which was gigantic, with waves crashing way down at the bottom.

    Two great things about the drive today. I went through Dootown. Each house in Dootown has a little "doo" phrase on the outside. For example, there was "Just doo it," "Doo little," "Doo nothing," and "We doo love it." I think the inhabitants are called doodes. (OK I made that part up.) Also, I had to travel over a few hills, two of them stood out for me, "Break-me-neck Hill," and "Bust-me-galls Hill." Yep, that's what the signs said at the summit.

    I arrived in Hobart at about 10:45am. I had a hard time trying to find parking, as the Saturday market was in full swing. I parked by a hospital, then walked down to one of the parks. This particular park used to be a cemetery. It was neglected and eventually was overrun by vegetation. At some point the city decided to make it a nice park. You can view all the headstones on walls, like the Vietnam Memorial in DC. The park itself is quite nice with lots of green grass. I don't know what happened to the bodies.

    At noon, I met some new Tassie friends, who asked if I had been to The Female Factory. I said, "No, but I think that sounds great!" Jeannie explained that it was the remains of the first female prison in Australia; the female equivalent of Port Arthur. "Oh." I got directions anyway.

    I went down to the outdoor market, Salamanca Market, which has everything. I tried a oliebullon; didn't pronounce it, just pointed. It looked like a doughnut and seemed pure Aussie. It was a deep fried ball of not-so-sweet dough, with raisins in it. Not exciting, but an experience. I walked over to the docks, where they have floating fish stalls. These floating contraptions sell fish and/or cook it for consumption on the spot. I went for "flake and chips" and ate it on the waterfront. Yummy.

    I finished the walking tour, as laid out by Frommer. The area is very Victorian. Reminds me of Great Britain. The architecture is delightful, with many rose gardens and lots of lavender. I drove out to the Female Factory and walked around. The site is under archeological reconstruction and won't be open for tours until 2009. I guess I'll have to come again. What is here is fascinating. Which reminds me....I think I forgot to tell you about Port Arthur. When you first arrive, you draw a card, which later corresponds to one of the inmates. You then walk through an interpretive area, where you follow the sentence of the inmate. I got some one I'm sure I've met reincarnated. He just kept getting arrested. Then, when incarcerated, he'd steal commissary food, sneak cigarettes, etc. As you can guess, I ended up on the chain gang with eight pound weights on my ankles 24/7. Nice. It was a really intriguing display and they had histories for a lot of different prisoners.

    Anyway, I'm leaving Hobart this evening for Mt. Field National Park. It is part of a World Heritage site and apparently has some fabulous waterfalls. Cheerio!
    Read more

  • Day 11

    Rain forests to rivers

    November 5, 2006 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    I spent the night in the Mt. Field National Park. It was so cold, I had to sleep in the car. Actually, it's been relatively chilly the whole time I've been here, so I wear my boots to sleep to keep my feet warm. I'm concerned I'm going to get foot rot, like a certain Greek bard, but so far, no fungus.
    Mt. Field is famous for Russell Falls and now I know why. It's a 10 minute walk into the rain forest before you see the two-tiered fall. The mist rises from the pool below, and you feel transported into prehistoric times. There are low-lying ferns all about and a heavy gum tree canopy above. Unfortunately, I could not get the whole falls into the view finder on my camera, so I have pictures of parts of the falls. Although impressive, they were not as enormous as Iguassu, in Brasil. I wander up to the lookout area and find the river feeding the massive fall is rather quite small; maybe 12-15 feet wide and no more than 2 feet deep. I was amazed it could create such a spectacle. I continued on the walking track to the Tall Tree Walk. The gum trees in the area are very old and almost match the height of the Redwoods in CA. These gums top out at 98 meters, while the redwoods highest are about 111 meters. Strangely, with that height, they do not have the girth of the redwoods, but that doesn't diminish their impressiveness. I continue on to two more falls, Horseshoe and Lady Barrouns, which are smaller but equally as rewarding.

    I left Mt. Field and headed for the Tahune Rainforest Airwalk. It took a couple hours, but I arrived in time to get into the visitors' center and buy my ticket. They have constructed a massive catwalk, about 100 feet above the forest floor, where you can walk around and study the canopy of the rain forest. There are two rivers, which converge here, the Picton and Huon, and the views from the catwalk are wonderful. The area had been logged significantly in the past, but there are some ginormous surviving trees, which stretch upward, beyond the catwalk, at least another 100 feet. Did you know that the gum tree has the hardest wood on the planet?

    I drove over to the coast to spend the night in Snug. It's close to Kingston, where I want to see the Antarctic exhibit tomorrow morning. Righty-o
    Read more