Zambia
Eastern Province

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    • Day 18

      Day 16 Zambia to Malawi

      May 26, 2023 in Zambia ⋅ 🌙 70 °F

      Our last game drive, at 6 am. We saw quite a few bird species, most I had never heard of. Phone cameras just don't take very good bird pictures so I won't post too many. Saw sleeping lions and also 2 sleeping elephants, lying down. Looked a couple of big rocks!
      Had breakfast at 10:30 am after packing up, and had our last boat ride and trip across the park to meet our driver to take us back to Lilongwe. It was an amazing trip and i am grareful to have experienced all that time observing the beauty and creativity of God's creation. It was also a relaxing and refreshing time that I am very grateful for.
      No real issues crossing the border and got back to Roberta's house at 6:30pm, a 6 1/2hr drive after bouncing around in the safari truck for 3 hours in the morning. We had four game drives, totaling 14 hours of safari time. It was a lot of very active sitting- my fitbit counted over 12 thousand steps on Thursday!
      Three more days in Malawi-the weekend and one more day in Dzaleka.
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    • Day 80

      The end of our morning drive

      July 25, 2023 in Zambia

      Halfway through the drive, we met up with the other half of our group for coffee and delicious homemade spicy savoury biscuits by the water. They had seen exactly the same as we had.

      After our break, it all got a bit fraught. We didn’t see much more wildlife. Musa kept apologising to Mona, who was in the front, because we hadn’t seen a leopard. We tried to reassure him that it wasn’t his fault, but other members of our group started to pick fault in his English and in his spotting skills. At the end of the safari, they didn’t tip him, even though we had been advised to do so. I thought they were overly critical. We had thoroughly enjoyed our experience and had seen plenty. It was very different to other safaris we have done because the park is so green and lush. There is water everywhere. This means that there isn’t the focus on waterholes that you get in other parks, so there are no places where you are guaranteed to see animals. It is much more a game of chance. Mona, Mark, and I were the only ones who gave Musa a tip. The others immediately complained to Laban about how rubbish he was!Read more

    • Day 301

      Lundazi + Chama + Mpika

      June 19, 2023 in Zambia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      Nous prenons le défi de partir de Chipata pour arriver à Mpika alors qu'il n'y a pas vraiment de routes sur google maps mais bon, comment font les locaux ? Il doit bien y avoir un moyen.
      On nous conseille de prendre un bus pour Lundazi puis aller à Chama et ensuite se rendre à Mpika. Malheureusement notre premier bus arrive à Chipata beaucoup trop tard. Nous partons en milieu d'après midi au lieu du matin. Les intermédiaires avaient beaucoup trop exagéré sur l'heure du départ du bus. 🤷‍♀️ Nous attendons beaucoup.

      Il fait déjà sombre quand nous arrivons. Nous avions prévu une chambre à Chama avec un ami du proprio qui viendrait nous chercher pour nous emmener là bas. Mais le prix annoncé par cet amis est beaucoup trop élevé. Nous convenons donc de partir le lendemain matin avec lui pour Chama et de partager le transport afin que ce soit moins cher.

      Chose dite, chose faite, nous voilà partis pour Chama le lendemain.

      Une fois à Chama, je fais un tour au marché et échange un peu en nyanga avec les personnes autour de moi. Nyanga est essentiellement parlé à l'est du pays et à Lusaka.

      Puis nous trouvons un transport pour Mpika. Un monsieur travaillant pour le gouvernement et ait missionné pour récupérer je ne sais plus quoi à Chama. Nous partageons la voiture avec une femme et ses 2 enfants. Le conducteur est très content d'avoir Kim et moi dans sa voiture et nous offre de l'eau, nous achète du miel en chemin. Mais ignore la femme zambienne. Cette situation nous renvoit à notre statut de personnes privilégiées. Pas si simple. J'avais prévu assez d'eau pour moi et offre l'eau donnée par le conducteur à cette dame discrètement.

      Notre chemin passe par des petits chemins en pleine nature. C'est l'aventure.

      Nous passons une journée à Mpika à nous promener (beaucoup de vents) puis continuons pour Kasama.
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    • Day 78

      Driving through Zambia

      July 23, 2023 in Zambia

      We then drove on through the Zambian countryside. Many people in rural areas make a living from producing charcoal, so swathes of land are black and burnt. Even though there is obvious poverty in these areas, the people seem happy, friendly, and outgoing. Being a Sunday, there were whole groups sitting outside socialising.

      The landscape is stunning with mountains, rivers, and forests.

      We stopped for a roadside lunch of sandwiches and salads. We arrived at our campsite in Petauke at about 4.30pm, put our tents up, and spent the time before dinner chatting. Fortunately, the verbose member of our group had upgraded, so he wasn’t there to dominate the conversation! Dinner was beef stroganoff with mashed potato and vegetables. It was very tasty. After dinner, we sat around the campfire discussing modern Zambia with Laban. The former Northern Rhodesia gained independence at the same time as Rhodesia itself, but the nation has been much more successful than its southern neighbour in the years since.

      Before bed, we chatted to some tourists from Slovenia who have rented 4 x 4s with roof tents and who are travelling around southern Africa for three weeks. They were happy that we were familiar with their country and were praising their capital city, Ljubljana.
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    • Day 79

      Lunch in Chipata

      July 24, 2023 in Zambia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      Thankfully, I slept much better last night, and woke up at 5.30am feeling suitably refreshed! We had breakfast and were packed up and back on the road by 8am.

      We were heading for South Luangwa National Park, but stopped after three hours in the town of Chipata for an early lunch and a look around. Mark bought some beer for the next couple of days and we topped up our snack bag yet again! I spotted an optician across the road from the supermarket, so I went over to see if I could get my glasses fixed. It turned out that it was closed for refurbishment. There was just a pile of rubble and some old advertising posters! However, someone knew where the optician was and ran to get him. He found some tools amongst the mess, reattached the arm of my glasses, and charged me a measly 30 kwacha (about US$1.50!!). What service!!

      We then went to get some lunch. We ended up sharing a pizza. Then we bought some delicious fresh strawberries from a lady in the car park and got some ice cream from a local shop. We ate them on the truck. What a treat!!
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    • Day 79

      A visit to Mulberry Mongoose

      July 24, 2023 in Zambia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      We continued our drive, passing village after village. Many of the people in this area earn a living from growing cotton. It is exported to Zimbabwe to be processed as there is no production facility in Zambia. They also make bricks from the local red clay, a back-breaking enterprise.

      As we approached our campsite, Croc Valley, just outside the national park, we passed through the village of Mfuwe. We visited Mulberry Mongoose, a women’s co-operative supported by Intrepid. They make jewellery from wire used in snares by poachers to illegally catch animals. The profits go to help anti-poaching initiatives. It was interesting to hear the story of how the workshops began. Most of us bought something as it is such a good cause. I bought another bracelet to go with my growing collection of African pieces!
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    • Day 79

      Croc Valley Campsite

      July 24, 2023 in Zambia ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

      From the workshop, it was just a short distance to our camp. We passed a number of other craft shops and interesting-looking stalls, some of which definitely warrant further investigation!

      On the way into Croc Valley, we encountered a couple of male elephants, a herd of bushbucks, monkeys, and baboons. It augers well for tomorrow’s game drives! We were camping right next to the Luangwe River. It was a beautiful spot! There was seating overlooking the water, a nice bar area, and a large swimming pool, although it was still a tad cold to tempt me in. Before we put up our tents and settled in, we were given a talk about how and where to set up in order to keep the vervet monkeys and baboons at bay. We were also advised what to do if we encountered a hippo or an elephant in the camp in the middle of the night. Apparently, it’s a common occurrence!

      Having put our tents up, we went to the bar and sat watching the hippos, crocs, and storks. The hippos were making a heck of a racket! We tried using the African wifi, but it really wasn’t working very well, so we gave up and just watched the wildlife instead. When dinner was ready, Laban came to get us. We had spaghetti bolognaise. None of us were late to bed as we have an early start tomorrow.
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    • Day 80

      Early morning drive in South Luangwa NP

      July 25, 2023 in Zambia ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

      We were up at 5.0am for a light breakfast of coffee and cereal before our early morning game drive. We were very happy not to have to take our tents down! At 5.45am, our two 4 x 4s arrived and we split into two groups of 10. There is still a clear divide between the old and new groups! We ended up with 9 of the original group and one new member. Our driver was Musa. We set off together, but soon went our separate ways. We spent four hours in the park. During that time we saw:

      • Lots of bushbucks
      • Vervet monkeys
      • Waterbucks
      • The nest of a pair of hammerkopfs, as well as the birds themselves
      • Hundreds of guinea fowl
      • A family of warthogs searching for food in the mud
      • Loads of impalas
      • Groups of baboons
      • Elephants, including very young ones
      • Hippos
      • An African Fish Eagle, the national bird of Zambia
      • Crocodiles
      • Zebras, including one with a nasty gash on its leg
      • Plovers
      • Marabou storks
      • Buffalo
      • Fava bean storks
      • Sacred ibis
      • Thorneycroft giraffes
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    • Day 80

      Tribal Textiles, Mfuwe

      July 25, 2023 in Zambia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

      We ended our very enjoyable shopping spree at the inspiring ‘Tribal Textiles’, where we met Honor from Chichester, who is just coming to the end of a three-month internship there. She was painting a mural on the outside wall of the shop. She was telling us about an art project she has helped to set up where the local children are making a giant baobab tree out of rubbish they have collected.

      Owen picked us up at the appointed time and took us back to the campsite where we regaled the rest of the group with tales of our outing. We spent the time until our next game drive with the others in the bar.
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    • Day 80

      Evening game drive in South Luangwa NP

      July 25, 2023 in Zambia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

      For our next game drive, we had three vehicles, as we needed a spotter in each 4x4 to use the huge spotlight when it got dark. This meant we had to split into two groups of seven and one of six. The complainers from this morning immediately formed a group and went with the new driver (the one who wasn’t with us this morning). We went with Musa! We were joined by Gilly, Joey, Greg, and Liz. We all set off together, but soon split up. When we met up at the halfway point for fruit juice and doughnuts, we had all seen the same animals, and it remained this way until the end of the drive. We saw:

      • Waterbuck
      • Warthogs
      • Elephants
      • African jacana
      • Baboons
      • Bee-eaters
      • Bushbucks
      • Impala
      • A breeding herd of puku
      • Guinea fowl
      • Hippos
      • Sacred ibis, the national bird of Egypt
      • Hammerkopfs
      • A lilac breasted roller
      • A pair of saddle-billed storks
      • An African fish eagle
      • Zebras
      • Crawshay zebra, a sub-species with spots as well as stripes!
      • A spotted hyena
      • An amazing sunset!
      • A leopard
      • Four lion cubs

      When Musa got a tip off that some of the other vehicles had seen a leopard, he drove like a loony to get us to the right place to see him too! It was great fun bouncing around in the 4x4, going off-road and up and down steep inclines! Most of us really enjoyed it, but one or two of our number thought he drove needlessly recklessly, and they were uncomfortable about us all crowding around the leopard. It was the same when we saw the lion cubs. All the drivers communicated with each other and took it in turns to get their clients as close to them as possible, driving through the bush to do so. Musa explained to us that the mother had left her cubs while she went off to hunt for food. They instinctively knew that we were not a threat and seemed unperturbed by our presence. They did not appear to be in any way stressed or afraid. One of our group, though, wasn’t happy at all that we were so close, both because she thought the cubs must be worried by us, and because she was afraid that the lioness would return and attack us! Neither of these things bothered us. Musa explained that we were safe, and that the cubs were not affected. Most importantly, without tourists like us coming on safari in the national parks, there would be no money to finance anti-poaching projects, and the animals would be in far worse danger.

      When we returned to camp, it was gone 8.30pm. Henry had cooked us T-bone steaks and fried potatoes for dinner. It was his only fail of the trip! Sadly, the steak was as tough as old boots, and the potatoes were hard! You can’t win them all!! 😊
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