Mucheke

Today, we made the journey from Chimanimani to Masvingo to see the ruins of Great Zimbabwe. Before we start the journey, we must source fuel, which as we know, isn’t the easiest task in Zimbabwe. We headed to the local fuel pump, which is out of fuel. However, the attendants helpfully point to their mate, who opens the boot of his car to reveal a stash of jerry cans. Nothing shady about that. We buy 15 litres of unknown-quality-fuel, which should be enough to get us a good way to Masvingo, but hopefully not so much as to ruin the engine.

Along the way, we came across a Flo Petroleum in a random town, which took USD. I ask him to fill up the tank, which entails him jumping up and down on the side of the car, in order to rock it back and forth, filling the tank to the absolute brim.

We arrived at Great Zimbabwe and headed through to the campsite, where a wedding was taking place. I feel bad about driving through the wedding, but the employees at Great Zimbabwe laughed off my concerns. Maybe it’s just my Britishness.

When we asked for a camping space at the campsite, the employee leaves, and returns a few minutes later to say that there is no water. When we say that we can manage without, she very reluctantly reaches for her phone to call the manager. After awkwardly watching her reluctantly press a button on her phone every few seconds, we ask about camping at the Great Zimbabwe Hotel. Her eyes light up, and we are directed back there.

At the Hotel, the camping is $20 per person per night, with the hotel’s tents. Somewhat bizarrely, there is no discount for our own tent.

Camping sorted, we head over to explore the ruins. Despite it being past 4pm, it is still a blazing 38 degrees C, and much to our chagrin, the royal enclosure is on the top of a huge granite outcrop- the walk up to the top and back down does not do Katie’s blisters any favours. Still, the history of the place, and the landscape, made it all worth it.Read more