Zimbabwe
Senka

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    • Day 47

      Antelope Park - Day 2

      January 10, 2020 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      I slept quite well, but woke up feeling very stiff and sore. The rib that I 'popped' on the truck the previous day was very sore and all my chest muscles hurt from when I used the rope swing into the pool in the Chimanimani mountains two days previously. I also now had a big section of one of my teeth missing. The wear and tear of this trip was taking its toll on my body. I felt for the first time that the discomforts of this trip were outweighing the enjoyments. If someone had offered me an instant teletransportation home, I might well have taken it at that point. I felt a bit like I'd had enough of the rigours of the trip. However, as I wrote this down, park attendants walked four large elephants right by our tents which assuaged these negative feelings a little. I was genuinely concerned about whether I could manage a horse ride in my physical condition.
      As it turned out, the timings were changed and we did what was called an 'Elephant Interaction' which involved us going out in a safari vehicle to meet four large elephants, one male and three females. It was a really special experience to get up close to these huge, gentle giants. I was able to stand with them and hold their tusks and stroke their bristly trunks. You could feel the non-verbal communication using touch and sound with them. I was able to look deep into their pale orange-yellow eyes. We were then able to take food pellets and place them in their trunk which they held out and twisted up to nimbly and sensitively take the pellets from my hands and place them in their mouth. The whole experience was deeply moving to get this close to such large animals. After about 30 minutes we returned to the safari vehicles and back to the campsite.
      I then rested at the campsite and prepared for my first ever horse ride at mid-day. We walked up to the stables and I began to feel a bit nervous about getting on the large horses that were circling in the paddock. I was given a red helmet which made me look like a bit like a polo player according to my fellow travellers, Lauren, Kim and Monica, also doing the horse ride. I was given a placid horse called 'Flame' as it was my first ride on a horse. I was taken over to concrete steps where I was helped onto the horse and given some basic instructions on how to use the reins to direct the horse and how to pull the reins to stop. I was also told how to kick the horses side with my heels to get him to walk forwards. My fellow travellers also got on their horses and we walked out of the stables, following our guide, and out into the park. I really enjoyed the experience of riding my horse and soon settled in to the rhythm of his steps. I could feel the connection with this large animal as I communicated my intentions through the reins and with my hands and voice. It was a simply wonderful experience and I immediately knew I would want to ride horses again in the future. I had that strange feeling that I had ridden horses before in a another life - the same feeling I get when I go on wooden sailing ships - maybe it's an ancestral menory or maybe I have ridden horses in another incarnation? We soon saw a herd of impala who remained quite close to us as they are not as afraid when we are riding another animal. We carried on through the scrubland and saw vultures in a nearby tree. We then came across two giraffes feeding on an acacia tree and again were able to get very close and take photos. We also saw a male and female lion in a nearby enclosure. We rode down the hill where we passed several wildebeest including young infant wildebeest. We saw another large vulture take flight from a tree before coming across several zebra. I slowly became more confident of directing my horse. He often bent down to eat the grass and I kept having to pull his head up with the reins. I really enjoyed this ongoing communication with my horse. We continued on down the hill and, all too soon, we were riding back into the stable. I got off the horse and back onto the step and led the horse to stand nearby. I patted Flame on the neck and thanked him for taking me through the park without incident.
      We returned to the campsite and had some lunch and a drink in the campsite bar and cafe and waited for our third wildlife experience in a day at 4.30pm which was a walk with the elephants we had spent time with in the morning. We took the safari vehicle out into the park to meet the four elephants again. We spent some time reacquainting ourselves with the elephants by standing with them, patting their trunks and taking photos. We then walked alongside them as they walked along in a rough line. I walked near the elephants and they would sometimes acknowledge my by directing their trunk over to my hand. It was a wonderful experience to walk so close to them and pat their sides. I was reminded of my childhood love of the Disney film, The Jungle Book. My favourite song in the film was the march of the elephants, and here I was all these years later, marching with elephants in Africa. We spent an idyllic half an hour walking with these giant, sensitive and intelligent beasts. There was a wonderful moment when two of the elephants walked closely either side of me and I felt the small tail of one of the elephants gently brushing my head. We stopped at a large water trough where the elephants sucked up water with their trunks and poured it into their mouth. We then walked on to some iron railing enclosures where the elephants ate acacia branches waiting for them. We were able to feed some more pellets into their upturned trunks and then it was time to say our goodbyes and return to the campsite.
      It had been a day of special experiences close up with animals and I felt very fortunate to have had the opportunity to experience it. I started the day feeling very low physically with my sore body and broken tooth, and my mood was then transformed in a positive direction by my close connection with wild elephants and horses. Animals really are the best therapy and always will be for me. I wondered whether and how I could spend more time with animals I'm the future. We all retired to the bar for drinks and dinner and reminisced on our special experiences of the day.
      The moths circled the lights in the bar, the crickets chipped loudly, the lights reflected on the river below and the full moon rose high into the starry sky. I climbed into my tent and settled down to sleep with images of elephants pouring through my mind, reliving experiences with them that I would never forget.
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    • Day 48

      Antelope Park - Day 3

      January 11, 2020 in Zimbabwe ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      I was able to 'sleep in' until 7am and arose with the gentle patter of light rain on my tent. I had some light breakfast from the truck and heard that wildebeest had been grazing around our tents during the night which explained the chewing sound I'd heard by my tent during the night.
      I had a slight migraine headache and so rested in my tent until the next close animal encounter with lions who have been bred in the park to one day hopefully be released back into the wild. We boarded the safari vehicle again and headed out to the lion's enclosure. We set up our cameras by a wire fence with a large pile of chicken in front of us for the lions to feed on. When we were all prepared three large male lions were released and raced towards us to feed on the pile of chicken. It was a heart stopping moment to have the sense of what it would be like to have three large lions running towards you for the kill. The lions guarded their prize ferociously and ticked into the meat lustily. It was a great privilege to see such a scene so close with only a thin wire fence between us. The lions looked muscular and powerful with large heavy paws and short thick set hind legs. They looked like evolutionary perfection.
      Then we moved over to the next enclosure and repeated the experience with three younger male lions. I took my photos and video and then sat watching them feed for several minutes to try and connect more deeply with the animals.
      I then went back to the first enclosure and sat the the large dominant male lions. They guarded their 'prey' ferociously and suddenly the dominant male lion, Arosha, made a charge for us at the fence and roared loudly. One couldn't help buy jump with fright at thos primal, electric, and sudden motion of thr lion. I remained close to the fence as Arosha prowled and dug into the earth to mark his territory. Arosha then lay down by fence and seemed to become calmer, with one final shocking snarl. I moved closer to the fance as most of my fellow travellers moved away. I instinctively made a deep humming sound which the lion seemed to respond to. Arosha then looked directly into my eyes, and I had one of the deepest moments of connection with another living being that I have ever experienced in my life. My heart seemed to open wide and we looked at each other for a long time. The lion seemed relaxed and at ease in my presence. It was like a dream experience but this was as real as anything could possibly feel. All my fellow travellers had already boarded the safari vehicle and I knew it was time to leave. As I walked away from this magnificent animal, I knew that my life had changed in some fundamental way in that moment of connection with Arosha, but I didn't yet know in what way. I had just seen the eternal fire of creation in that lion's eyes and knew that he and his wild kin must be preserved so that light of creation is never extinguished. I returned to the camp in the vehicle feeling highly emotionally charged and in a sort of wild reverie. When we returned I walked down to the river to write, and try to process what had just happened. I knew deeply that I couldn't be same again after that moment.
      I spent the afternoon resting at the camp, having some lunch and passion fruit juice in the cafe, and observing the wildlife by the river as I walked over a wooden bridge with geckos skitting away in front of me. We had an early dinner cooked by our fellow travellers ahead of our planned night safari with some the the lions lions who are released from their enclosures to learn how to hunt in the park so that they can be released into the wild in the future.
      We boarded our safari vehicle at around 5.30pm and headed out into the park. Unfortunately, the very dark skies ahead looked ominous with lightning flashing in the distance. A rainbow appeared in the grey-brown clouds to our right. The lions were released from their enclosure by the two park rangers who accompanied us and ran up towards the back of our vehicle. They were two adult females with one of them being the better hunter according to our guides. They were lithe, muscled and impressive looking animals. They followed our vehicle for a while, but then struck out ahead to look for prey to hunt. It was lovely to watch them interact with each other and roll around in the brush together.
      Sadly and inevitably, it began to rain and we considered whether to go on which we did. We came across some wildebeest and antelope which the lions attempted to pursue. They also found some rotten meat to scavenge which their powerful immune systems are adapted to withstand. The darkness descended and we followed the lions through the night. Then the rain began to hammer down hard and we all started to get a real soaking in the open topped vehicle. Eventually, and to our disappointment, we had to give up on the night safari and take the lions back to their enclosure. We transferred to a covered vehicle and returned to the campsite, wet, bedraggled and more than a little demoralised. A few of us tried to dry ourselves by the camp fire before returning to our tents for some well needed sleep. The guides for the night safari offered to take us out again in the morning as compensation from our abandoned night safari. I thought it unlikely that I could muster the energy to get early enough to do it.
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    • Day 334

      43 - 46: Antelope Park

      July 3, 2019 in Zimbabwe ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

      Mer händ drüü nächt uf ehmene Campingplatz verbrocht wo verletzti Leue und anderi Tier ufnimmt, sie verarzted und denn die Tier oder ihri junge weder probiert id Wildniss uszetze.

      Am erste Tag bin ich mit go Elefante füettere und am Obig bini mit drüü Leue mit uf Jagt. Es esch zimlich cool gsii und hed gueti Bilder gäh aber es esch mer doch alles sehr gstellt und touristisch vorcho.

      Drum hani de am zwoite Tag entschiede nüt meh z unternäh. Ich bi de im Kaffi ih de Sunne ghocked und ha probiert eim vo de Tour Düütsch biizbringe. Nacher hani no chli Spieli gspielt, gläse und eifach chli gredt. Am spötere Nomittag hani es paar Lüüt gfunde zum uf ehn Spatziergang go. Nach dem glungnige gmüetliche Tag hämmer mit ehnere Fläsche Rotwii de Sunneuntergang gluegt.
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