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    • Day 34

      The Cliffs of Moher

      June 8, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

      The trips most anticipated stop... Was a tourist trap sadly and a huge let down.
      Beautiful yes but the Kerry Cliffs we visited the other day were more our style.
      Glad we went though and was fun to be almost blown to our deaths off a cliff by the craziest wind imaginable 😂Read more

    • Day 19

      Roots

      June 20, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

      After bidding goodbye to Bridie and her lovely home, we headed to St John’s Church in Tralee. What another amazing old structure. It was humbling to think that my grandma received the Sacrament of Baptism in this church in 1890. Off to the office where we got contact information for the archivist of the church. I’ll email him details and any pictures of documents we have. The parish cemetery is a few miles away, so we headed off to Rathass Cemetery. The caretaker of the cemetery was so helpful. He took both my great grandparents names and did a search, but found nothing. He said the data base is very incomplete before the 1920’s. We took a few pictures of headstones with Reidy names and will try and do more research through Ancestry. It’s amazing how easy it is to spend 2 hours in a cemetery.
      We had at least another hour to get to Kilcolgan in Galway county just south of Kilorglin, where we stayed many years back with Jen and Kelly. Our hosts for the next two days are Kate and Michael at Rafterys Way. So we hit our first Motorway of the trip. M18, with a speed limit of 120km/hr. We think it’s around 75miles/hr but the 120 is much more impressive! Kate offered us tea and biscuits when we arrived, had a chance to explore her garden and talk flowers with her and politics with Michael. As in the US, there are varied opinions about how each government handled the Covid lockdown. Tourism is such a huge component here that many businesses never could reopen. One owner we spoke with in Dingle said they learned some very important lessons from the lockdown. He said it rekindled their family time which had been lacking due to the business. He has chosen to close on Sundays for family time. Many businesses don’t have that luxury.
      Had an early dinner and bedtime. Heading to Inisheer, the smallest of the Aran Islands by ferry tomorrow.
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    • Day 69

      CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 4

      June 21, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      After a restful night, we packed for the next leg of our trip and we said good-bye to our wonderful hosts Markie and Eamon.

      We decided to get breakfast in the nearby town of Carlow, and we found a really great espresso spot. It wasn't just that the lattes and breakfast food was delicious, we loved the positive community building environment. On the wall was an aspirational message which in part expressed:
      "...we want to help to build a positive space where people can come together, be convivial, and bring our town back to its happy place..."

      There was a slate with post-it notes where you could purchase drinks for others and they could use the post-it note as a voucher for a drink. We opted to do that when we paid our bill. We really appreciated what this small business in the midst of a little town was trying to do to build community.

      At breakfast we talked about our route possibilities to our final destination of Kinsale, a small fishing village south of Cork. We opted for the longer route with a stop at Hook Head Lighthouse in County Wexford.

      We enjoyed walking around Hook Lighthouse. It's amazing that this structure is 850 years old. It reminded us of our times on the Maine coast.

      When we departed, we noticed the ruins of a church several hundred kilometers down the road. After reading the inscription, we learned that Saint Dubhan, came to Hook Point from Wales in 452 A.D and established a monastery on this site. Saint Dubhan is believed to have lit the first warning beacon for ships on the point shortly after his arrival. This beacon had been maintained by the monks for 700 years until the current lighthouse was built. The English word for Dubhan is hook.

      As we explored the ruins and found gravesites, some hundreds of years old and others relatively new, I reflected on the theme that this was a site where someone looked out for others. His mission and those who followed him was to keep others seafaring travelers safe, and his legacy remains.

      We left this area and headed west past the city of Waterford where Waterford Crystal is made. We enjoyed the three-hour drive and we arrived in Kinsale late afternoon.

      Kinsale reminded us both of Boothbay Harbor, Maine. It's a colorful, bustling fishing village of about 4,000 people. We've rented a flat above an art gallery. It's cheerful and open, and close to several pubs and restaurants.

      After a short nap, we took a walk along the marina and then looked for a place to get dinner. We settled on a pub that was filling up quickly. Jim had fish and chips, and I opted for beef stew with Guinness. I decided that my stew seemed to be missing something: flavor. I told Jim that his stew was significantly better. What was missing in the food was made up in the drink as we enjoyed beers, and I had an Irish coffee.

      We decided to wait to hear the performers, and I'm glad that we did. Two older Irish men played guitar and and English and American songs with several opportunities for audience sing-a-longs.
      We made room for a couple who were standing near our table. They were very grateful that we made room for them. As it turns out they were educators from California. We told them that we were from Portland. They laughed because they assumed that we were locals because of our white beards.

      We had a fun evening talking with them, making song requests and listening to the banter of the performers. It was fun to share the table with them.

      It was totally on my romanticized bucket list to sit in a pub and sing Irish songs. I was envious of the performers, and I thought back to a time when I organized a Pete Seeger tribute concert in Maine. I loved the opportunity to be a song leader and to gather community to create something together. It makes me want to try that again. Who knows, maybe there will be space on this trip.

      As I reflect on the experience of the day, my take away is summarized by another piece on that coffee house wall in Carlow:

      "One of the basic cravings of humanity is to connect with each other. " Yes.
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    • Day 70

      CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 5

      June 22, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      We had a very decent night's sleep in our apartment, but we did wake up to what I was assuming was trash collection day given the loud sounds of grinding metal and broken glass.

      We later discovered that this was the delivery of many kegs of beer to the neighborhood. We really are staying in "Pub Central". When I was researching the top 10 pubs in Kinsale, most on the list are meters away from our flat.

      Jim C graciously ran to the store and picked up some groceries and cappuccinos for breakfast in our space. I'm reminded that the thing I will cherish most upon our return are meals at home. As nice as it has been to have some incredible meals out, the thought of preparing are own meals again feels like a different sort of luxury.

      We decided to go to the Blarney Castle today which is located just outside of the city of Cork in the town of Blarney. The visit was to see the famous Blarney stone where purported if you kiss the stone, you are given the gift of eloquence and flattery.

      Growing up with all the Irish relatives on my mother's side of the family, I would always think of the term blarney as being a "bullshitter" or someone who jabbers unending nonsense. In a more positive light, I see the gift of blarney in someone who can strike up a conversation with anyone.

      Dating back to my elementary school days, my report cards were often riddled with derogatory teachers' comments like "socializes too often with others" or "spends too much time talking with others". Upon reflection, it's interesting to see that behaviors that were seen as deficits in my youth, served me well as an adult. Perhaps the refinement over time was learning to listen more than just talk, but the ability to strike up a conversation with strangers has been poweful for my career, and it helped me meet my husband. 💚 Ironically, I attribute my "gift of gab" to my French-Canadian father.

      Ok, enough of my blarney birdwalk...

      We arrived at the grounds of the castle. The grounds are absolutely spectacular. I should note that I knew that in order to kiss the Blarney Stone, that one has to maneuver in a prone position with your head upside down to kiss the specific stone. I was missing one very important detail: The stone is positioned 85 feet above the ground with a gap near the parapet where you can see below to the ground. I watched with horror from the ground as we approached the castle walls, and we could see people being "assisted" to kiss the stone. The line marker that announced that we had a 60-minute wait to arrive at the stone, and I felt the same nervous anticipation that I've experienced in lengthy amusement park rides with dizzying heights as a component of the experience.

      The procession to the castle was lined with many informational placards. I learned that the castle was owned by the MacCarthy family who loved to entertain. I recognized, with a sense of pride, the coat of arms from my own family; my maternal grandmother was a McCarthy and they have roots in Cork County.

      As we made our way through the castle ruins, we could see various placards naming the rooms and activities in the castle. We then began the very narrow, claustrophobic climb up the "Tower of Terror". I was determined to go up despite a marked fear of heights and a pretty strong dislike of cramped spaces. We navigated the hundred steps to the top.

      I have always loved the view and despised the process to achieve it. This was no exception. As we approached the stone, I confirmed that there was no way that I was dangling my head upside down with the ground visible below despite iron bars making it impossible to fall through. The last few informational panels described numerous legends surrounding the stone including business dealings, grateful witches and Faerie magic. I couldn't locate the Satan legend, but I'm sure it was there somewhere.

      You might think this is irrational, but I'm the guy who pauses stepping over the minute gap between the floor and an elevator convinced that my ample frame will somehow manage to fall through the crack. (Note: Before the safeguards were installed, the kiss was performed with real risk to life and limb, as participants were grasped by the ankles and dangled bodily from the height.)

      I was afforded the opportunity to witness the vicarious thrill (terror) of my husband being pulled to the vicinity of the stone for a photo op. His first words to me were "Yeah, you would have hated that."

      We made it back down the set of stairs to the ground and we walked to the next seemingly safer exhibit of the "Poisonous Plants Garden". Cannabis was one of the plants displayed. As the saying goes, "you pick your poison". I could have used a visit to the garden prior to the heart palpitation adventure.

      I loved our walk through the garden. The flowers and forest grounds were really beautiful and peaceful. Much of the time, we felt like we had the park to ourselves.

      We left the park, and stopped Cork for a beer. While I'm not a big beer fan, I have enjoyed the Irish Red ales.

      We returned to the apartment for a nap and we enjoyed a leisurely dinner at "The Black Pig" a local wine bar. Our server was delightful, and we hit it off after we complimented her on her skillful dispatch of obnoxiously entitled neighboring guests who were furious that they couldnt seat nine guests at a table barely designed for six. They left in a huff, and it made our dinner that much more enjoyable. I really do feel for staff in the hospitality business. I know most establishments are very understaffed, and we appreciate their hard work. Despite the absence of tipping culture in Europe, we've tried to show our appreciation.

      Signing off with gratitude for another wonderful day. ☘️ 💞
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    • Day 71

      CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 6

      June 23, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      We decided to take a drive along a small fraction of the 2500 km Wild Atlantic Way today. This is a tourism trail along the southern, western and northern coasts of Ireland. Kinsale is near the southern terminal point so we began there this morning. We made no commitment how far we were going to travel today. We have learned that travel on many of Ireland's winding, narrow rural roads force you to slow down. It's a good opportunity to enjoy the vistas.

      The first destination was to travel to Old Head, a lighthouse point in Cork County. We didn't realize that we weren't able to actually make it to the lighthouse as the land is now privately owned by a golf course. We did stop just outside the golf course entrance at a memory point for the Lusitania, an Irish passenger ship that was sunk by a German torpedo during WWI about 10 miles off the coast of our observation point.

      Ireland's tourism industry has detailed many points of interest along the way. We knew that we'd have several other opportunities so we picked a few tentative destination points.

      Along the way we stopped for a game of miniature golf that was located in an adventure park. It was hard to picture youth navigating the ropes course without injury as it looked rather daunting; however, that part wasn't open.

      We stopped in a roadside fish and chips stand in the village of Rosscarbery. The portions were massive and the fish was very fresh and delicious.

      We then made our way next to Baltimore Beacon a very unusual shaped structure dating from 1850 to alert sailors about the rocky shore. It's known locally as “Lot’s Wife”, a Biblical story reference about a woman getting turned into a pillar of salt.

      Before we arrived we took time to sit by a peaceful cove as we listened to the water slap against a small moored sailboat.

      On site at the Beacon, we noted that the nearby cliffs were really dramatic without any protective barrier beyond a line of barbed wire. We loved the view to sea although I was a bit nervous to get too close to the edge.

      We then made our way back to our flat, having been on the road for several hours. We both noted how unusual it is to see verdant pastures and hills along the coast. If you look in one direction, you'd think you were in farmland in Pennsylvania and across the road the rugged Maine coast. It's an interesting collage of geographical features.

      After we returned, we took naps, and when we woke up we decided to just stay in for our first "Netflix and Chill" night since we first departed for Europe. We joked that we were preparing for life back home in the States, but I think it was also a bit of recognition that we're a bit homesick for those times despite the really wonderful trip abroad.

      I think that we've done a great job deciding what we want and slowing down to just take the experience in when we need to do that. I'm grateful that we've been able to experience this together.

      Sweet dreams from Kinsale.
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    • Day 74

      CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 9

      June 26, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      Seven years ago today the U.S. Supreme Court ruled in favor of same-sex marriage. While Jim C and I had already been granted that right by a vote of the people on Washington state nearly three years earlier, it was a momentous day for those who lived in the "have-not" states as well as other federal rights granted to us by the narrow ruling. It's not lost on us that too many women, particularly those without resources will likely suffer in the "have not" states.

      My reflection of Limerick today as we walked around the city is that there were several examples of the labor movement to help give rights and voice to the people, and in this case to the fight for Ireland's independence. It was a good reminder that it's not enough to just be angry, but to channel that anger into action for the common good, and to hold our governmental institutions accountable when they fail to remember that it's their purpose as well. Seeking support in polite ways does not persuade oppressors.

      I wanted to visit Limerick because it is the city where my maternal grandfather's family came from. His parents were married here and his oldest brother was born here before the family moved to rural New York. I'm named for him. I have not approached my genealogical research about his family with the same zeal in finding my grandmother's roots because my grandfather was a horrible human being. I've been curious about his lineage, and I have many questions about the family who created such an abysmal soul. I suspect those questions will remain unanswered, and I choose to emulate the light of his wife, my grandmother instead.

      Limerick is a gritty city. You can sense its industrial past and its effort to recast itself. One can see more evidence of poverty and struggle, and I admire the city for its past and aspirations for a better future.

      We began our day with a massive Irish breakfast while we watched the weather change about every five minutes from drizzle to sun to downpours. Next to us a young family was introducing their toddler son to the joys of Nutella, and while we watched him wear more that he managed to eat, we smiled as we recalled recent photos of Olive's wearing much of a recent Nutella treat as well.

      We walked by the now closed Frank McCourt museum, the author of "Angela's Ashes" a very tough autobiography of a difficult life. The museum was in sn old schoolhouse created by bequeathed funds from a wealthy man who wanted to help the poor. It's a poweful story of a wealthy person helping those less fortunate.

      We decided to take advantage of a break in the weather and we wandered to People's Park. The park was opened in the late 1800's by a wealthy businessman who wanted to create a planned space for the populace. I was moved by a monument dedicated to parents who had lost young children. I loved the efforts of artists to create beautiful wood sculptures of trees uprooted by a severe windstorm. And I loved children's chalk drawings by of a rainbow heart on a park bench, a love offering by the innocents.

      Like many Americans, I'm angry about living in a country that has lost its soul. Limerick's lesson for me today reminded me of the power of love, the power of the labor movement and organizing, the power of creation, and the beauty of youth. I'm grateful for the reminder.
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    • Day 76

      CÚIG GHRIANGHRAF-Ireland Day 11

      June 28, 2022 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      We woke up to very welcome glimpses of sunny skies and a rainbow overlooking the multi-hued bay from our room in Castlegregory. After a hearty breakfast, and an amiable conversation about unions and politics back home with our gracious hosts, we hit the road.

      I had discovered an app outlining many points of interest along the Wild Atlantic Way. We decided to select some spots before heading back to our Limerick Hotel.

      We drove by the 1800 Blennerville Windmill, just outside of the town of Tralee, which reminded us of sites in Holland. Although the visitor center was closed, we did get a look at the windmill that still grinds grain today.

      We stopped next at the Ardfert Cathedral ruins dating back from the 12th century. Like many of our visits to church ruins, I find the adjacent cemeteries to be fascinating due to evidence of ancient gravesites mixed with markers of those who have passed in more recent times.

      For our next stop, we decided to check out the Bromore Cliff outside the village of Ballybunion.
      The site is now privately owned and required an honor system donation of 5€. The walk along the freshly mown grass path divided by a wire fence revealed spectacular 60 meter cliffs and waterfalls. The wind was quite strong giving Wyoming's wind a "Hold my beer" competition. At times, I could barely maintain my footing or hold onto my phone to take photos. There were several informational signs along the way. One pointed out that the waterfalls had nearly a reverse flow on windy days. Sure enough, I was able to catch photos and videos of the spray of the waterfall being blown back up the cliff. In the center of the walk was a small structure identified as a WWII lookout space. I imagined how lonely that task might be.

      As we made our way back to the car, a truck drove up, and it became apparent that this elderly farmer checked to see if we had paid admission. After ostensibly seeing that we did, he asked if we wanted a receipt and he offered a nearly toothless grin and he wanted to make sure that we had enjoyed our visit.

      Given that the sunny weather seemed to be holding steady and exceeding expectations of the forecast we decided to alter our destination and head toward the famed Cliffs of Moher. To get there, we opted to take the Tarbert-Kilrush Ferry across the Shannon River. It was a fun experience, and it reminded me of the small ferry that my parents would take us on across the Connecticut River when I was quite young. The wind remained quite blustery and the waves of the river crashed over the ferry platform several times.

      Kilrush is home to the Victorian Vandeleur walled gardens. We decided to explore the gardens and get a light lunch. We enjoyed the walk in the garden and getting a bit lost in the shrubbery maze. I immediately started singing "English Country Garden" that I pulled from some long lost brain cell of my youth. Jim C had never heard of it, and I played a clip of it for him.
      We enjoyed our lunch and watched children's shrieks of excitement at the ice cream stand.

      Our last stop of the day was the Cliffs of Moher. I had often seen photos of this site, and I do have to admit that it was one of my favorite vistas of the whole trip. The views really are breathtaking, and we were pleasantly surprised that the wind wasn't bad and the sun remained.

      It took us about an hour to return to Limerick. We enjoyed a great meal at a local Asian fusion restaurant, and we joined a local online acquaintance for several pints of Guinness at Gleeson's White House, the oldest pub in Limerick. We had a great conversation with him, sharing favorite music artists and life stories. As the locals say, it was a "grand" way to cap an eventful day.
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    • Day 580

      Puxley Castle & Bullig Bay Loop

      May 18 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Der Wanderweg war interessanter als das Schloss von außen 😂deswegen gibt es heute mehr Bilder vom Loop, als vom Schloss. Eine wunderbare Gegend sogar mit Blick auf einen Leuchtturm. Einfach nur wunderschön 😍 mehr Worte bedarf es nicht.Read more

    • Day 581

      Healy Pass 🤩

      May 19 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Der spektakuläre Healy Pass beginnt an der Adrigole Bridge in West Cork und endet an der Lauragh Bridge in der Grafschaft Kerry. Die Straßen schlängeln sich durch eine raue, nicht von dieser Welt stammende Landschaft zwischen zwei der höchsten Gipfel des Caha-Gebirges. Unterwegs gibt es 12 km lange Haarnadelkurven in felsigem Gelände, die sich aufgrund der spektakulären Landschaft alle lohnen. Einen Abstecher wert 😃Read more

    • Day 581

      Parknasilla

      May 19 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Nun befinden wir uns auf dem Ring of Kerry. Die Landschaft nach den Healy Pass weiterhin schön. Die Straßen sind kilometerlang mit Rhododendron gesäumt, der in den schönsten Lila Farbtönen um die Wette strahlt. Die Büsche sind stellenweise ca. 3 Meter hoch.Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Munster, An Mhumhain, مونستر, Манстэр, Мънстър, Cúige Mumhan, مونستەر, Манстер, Munsteri provints, Còigeamh Mumhan, Queiggey Mooan, מנסטר, マンスター, მანსტერი, Мунстер, 먼스터, Momonia, Mansteris, Munster Séng, Momonîn, منستر, Munsteri, مونسٹر, 芒斯特省

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