Pernambuco

New-to-us Port #18.

Do Brazil Right, the company that took us around, lived up to its name. We did Recife and Olinda “right.”

We had a 20 passenger bus for 10 of us … with the A/C working beautifully. There was another small group — in a larger bus; with their own guide — and we loosely toured together.

We set off from the port to Boa Viagem. Our guide, Paolo, described this beachside neighborhood as the place where the rich live … the most expensive spot per square meter is what he said. Beautiful area … high-rises lining one side of a busy street; a beach protected by a reef along the other side of the street. Here we walked for a bit with the second group joining in … photo ops and fresh coconut water from a stand.

Next, we headed to Recife’s Old City, where we got off the bus near “Marco Zero” — aka Ground Zero … so named because it was from this point during colonial times that distances to various parts of the State of Pernambuco were measured.

From here, we walked to Rua do Bom Jesus (Good Jesus Street), which was called Rua dos Judeus (Jewish Street) between 1636-1654. It was so named because the first synagogue of the Americas was built on this street. Today, Kahal Zur Israel Synagogue is a museum, the original building having been torn down. We saw some of the old foundations, visible through holes in the floor that are covered in plexiglas. On the second floor, was a replica room of the synagogue, complete with an Ark of the Covenant where hand-written Torah scrolls would have been stored behind a door covered by a curtain.

Also on this street, we visited the Embaixada dos Bonecos Gigantes (Embassy of the Giant Dolls. Here we saw the giant puppets that are used during the carnival in Recife. The dolls, which stand over 5 feet tall, are apparently carried on the shoulders of people as they parade down the carnival route.

In another boutique museum, we saw some of the carnival outfits and were treated to a short performance of the frevo, a style of music and dance that originated from Recife. From what I understand, this is one of the seven or so rhythms used in the local carnival and is one that can put listeners into a trance. This music style is included on UNESCO’s intangible heritage list.

Rejoining our tour bus, we continued to the Governor’s Palace — officially, Palácio do Campo das Princesas - Governo do Estado de Pernambuco. The 19th century building’s name translates as the Palace of the Princess’ Garden. It overlooks Praça da República, where there is a giant baobab tree that Paolo said was so big that 11 people would be needed to encircle it.

Mui and I were on our way to the vehicle, when I caught a glimpse of a stained glass window inside the Governor’s Palace. We walked over and asked the guard if we could take a quick photo. I was expecting a “no,” but he undid the red velvet cord and let us in. The scene depicted in the window included the “Lion of the North,” which is a symbol of the state and represents the bravery of the people during the revolt of 1817.

From here, we continued our drive to Casa da Cultura de Pernambuco. What is now a handicraft market is an old prison that dates back to 1850. The cells, which retain their original numbers, have been turned into souvenir shops selling items from all around the state. The cross-shape of the penitentiary, Paolo told us, allowed for a single guard standing on a high platform in the center of the building to keep an eye on all the cells … which could house 200 prisoners.

Since we are not shoppers, per se, Mui and I did a quick wander into each wing to check out the colorful wares in the shops, climbed the very steep stairs up to the second level, and then did a quick wander around the outside of the old prison building. The original thick walls, have been left intact on the four corners of the property, with a hanging guard tower on each.

After lunch at a buffet restaurant where you pay for your food by the weight of your plate, we headed to Olinda, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Paolo had mentioned at the outset this morning that we would be traveling back in time … from modern Boa Viagem, to Old Recife, to Olinda … which was the colonial era capital of Pernambuco … founded in 1535 by the Portuguese.

Because our vehicle was small enough, our group was able to go into the city and drive up to the main square. The other group had to park and walk up. We started out at the Alto da Sé, the plaza near the Holy Saviour of the World Cathedral. The current church was built in 1584 and was elevated to a cathedral in 1676.

Next, we wandered around a bit. In the courtyard of a mini-mall, we were treated to a couple of kids performing the frevo … for tips. Then, we walked a bit more around the plaza and went to a coffee shop/gallery for a potty break and beverages. There was a breeze here that was most welcome.

Our next stop was to be the Basílica e Mosterio de São Bento (Basilica and Monastery of Saint Benedict.) To get there, we had two options … ride down or walk down. We opted to walk down with Leonardo, the guide on the big bus. Those who wanted to ride down went with Paolo in our vehicle.

The walk was down the same cobblestone street that the carnival follows in Olinda … with giant dolls similar to the ones we saw in Recife. Leonardo showed us a photo taken during the recent carnival and the whole street looked like a sea of people shoulder to shoulder … hip to hip. It was a pleasant walk with plenty of colorful houses on either side. Very charming.

The monastery dates back to the early colonial period. Construction of the current Baroque-style church — which was elevated to a minor basilica in 1998, began in 1660, after the original complex was destroyed by a fire that ravaged much of the city. It took approximately 100 years to complete the construction.

After this stop, we rejoined our original group in the vehicle for a drive around some of the sites in the lower city. And then back to the ship.

It was a great tour and we really enjoyed our time ashore. But we were drained by the heat. Once back in the cabin, I couldn’t even think about writing or processing photos. So, I just sat on the veranda, which was in the shade, and read until it was time for dinner … in the GDR with Sonia & Boris.

Filip Wojciechowski was headlining the show in the Insignia Lounge tonight. This time he gave a solo performance … a classical music concert, featuring some of the great composers.Read more