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  • Day575

    Tamariu, Costa Brava

    January 22, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Our journey today took us along the Costa Brava. Much of it was spent zig zagging our way up and down steep cliffs on narrow roads. The slopes were tree covered, the evergreen foliage providing what we imagine to be much needed shade in summer. Being amongst the woods we couldn't see very far, but caught occasional glimpses of seaside villages, their whitewashed houses with terracotta rooftops clustered into mini bays with steeply rising sides. Sa Tuna was one such town that we dived down into for lunch. It had limited public parking but there were only a few cars so plenty of it was free. Walking the short distance to the sand and pebble beach, virtually enclosed by sandstone rocks, we noticed details on the buildings, such as the rich green glazed ceramic drainpipes and tiles with street names or paintings, set into walls. Sa Tuna was undeniably a very well presented village but it was very much a tourist resort and consequently the streets were empty and there was no life to the place at this time of year. The few locals we saw were laying crab pots and renovating holiday apartments. As tourists ourselves, we can't really criticise, but we wonder how these residents feel about their former fishing villages becoming seasonal tourist meccas, their beautiful houses standing empty at times like this.

    The beach was gorgeous, Vicky sat on the pebbles and Will perched on the raised crazy paving walkway to one side. The sun was out and the rocks were absorbing and radiating the heat nicely. Although the blue water looked inviting, the swell was large and when we looked closer, the breaking waves seemed a little cloudy. Further out there was some brown scum which managed to put Will off snorkling!

    After lunch we moved on to Tamariu, a similar village whose beach had more sand and fewer pebbles than Sa Tuna. We managed to find a car park of grass and sand hidden away amongst trees on the hillside about half a kilometre from the centre. There was nobody else parked and we doubted anybody was currently in the few villas that we could see. Stepping out, the place smelled of pine and lush grass, something we'd missed in many of the parched Spanish stopovers. We really appreciate all the free facilities that towns have provided but it felt so good to be somewhere that was a little more secluded. The three of us sat out with a drink. At 15°C it wasn't t-shirt weather but it was great to relax in the fresh air somewhere that Poppy was comfortable enough to curl up on her rug and snore contentedly.

    Will popped down to the village in search of a local shop. He found 3 supermarkets and a bakers. All of them were closed but the 3 estate agents were open. He had planned to spend something in the region of €7.50 on bread and fruit, not €750,000 on a luxury villa, so returned empty handed!

    The next day brought glorious sunshine. Vicky again sat out with Poppy and recharged her vitamin D while the solar panel recharged the van batteries. She caught up with her sewing pile while Will walked the 600m to the beach for a snorkle. As well as his neoprene hood he'd got for Christmas, he now had neoprene gloves that Vicky had given him for his birthday. The water may have been cold but he was well insulated and able to enjoy watching the plethora of fish he found in the transparent waters.

    The sky remained clear as darkness fell and with a waxing crescent moon, we were able to see a whole lot of stars dotting the sky above the tree line. Orion rose directly above the van and we had fun playing with the long exposure settings on the GoPro to take photos of the scene.
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