• Dominick Pisa
Feb – Apr 2024

Scotland & the North

Late February to early April 2024 Read more
  • Loch Ness & Urquhart Castle

    March 16, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    It was a gorgeous day for a cruise on Loch Ness and a chance to explore Urquhart Castle. It stood for 1000 years in this strategic point on the loch until it was destroyed by the English in the 17th century.Read more

  • Highland Shortbread Showdown

    March 17, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    I had been looking forward to this for weeks since I found out I’d be in Inverness at the same time as the Highland Shortbread Showdown of 2024. It was just across the street from my hotel so I went early to beat the crowds. I’m glad I did. It tuned out to be quite a popular event, and by noon it was packed. When you walk in they give you a chip to cast your vote for the people’s choice award, and you just begin sampling. Coffee and whisky were free. Contestants were from all over Scotland and they each added a unique twist usually involving regional specialties or liqueurs. Everyone had a traditional recipe to try as well. My vote went to Mackenzie’s Bakery from Skye for their honey and oat entry. I realized later that I had been to their bakery on the square in Portree, the central town on the island, and I loved their jam doughnuts too. And they won! They were chosen best overall and given the showdown trophy.Read more

  • Dunnottar

    March 19, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    Dunnottar Castle is credited with saving the Honours of Scotland (Scottish Crown Jewels) when all of Scotland was invaded and the castle stood as the last holdout. They had been used in the king’s coronation but couldn’t be returned to Edinburgh because Oliver Cromwell had marched north and taken the city. It was decided that Dunnottar would be the safest place and they were smuggled into the castle in sacks of wool just before Cromwell’s troops laid siege. When the castle surrendered six months later, the honours were nowhere to be found and could not be destroyed by the English forces. The wife of the governor of the castle had been allowed to visit three times during the siege. Each time she hid the crown, sceptre, or sword in among her things and got them past the English to be brought to a nearby church and buried under the floor. At the time of the Restoration, the honours were dug up and returned to the King.Read more

  • Stonehaven

    March 19, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    Farther up the coast lies the town of Stonehaven which is a beautiful fishing port. I was thinking of the pilgrimage to Santiago all morning as I walked along the cliff between Dunnottar and Stonehaven, and then, in the town I came upon the Church of St James the Great (Santiago) so I took it as a sign to stop to show a little gratitude and to have a quiet moment to reflect on the past five months of travel.Read more

  • Aberdeen

    March 20, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    Aberdeen is the Granite City, so almost the entire center city is gray. The university is in the Old Aberdeen section, close to where I’m staying, and it has a very different feel to the granite-clad Georgian center. The school dates back to the 1400s. Kings College Chapel was a highlight of the walking tour. Aberdeen sits on the North Sea so there’s a bit of a summer resort feel to it with plenty of sandy beaches. I took a long walk around the city today starting at 8 am and finishing up after lunch. Definitely not my favorite Scottish city, but yesterday’s coastal walk made it worth a visit.Read more

  • Glasgow

    March 22, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 46 °F

    I arrived in Glasgow just in time for their International Comedy Festival. I have tickets for a couple of headliners and I’ll go to other shows when I can. Last night I saw a stand up show at Blackfriars. It was an up and coming English comic who usually does warm up for bigger names. He was great. Today I did a tour of the city. There’s a definite Glasgow sense of humor that sets it apart from the rest of Britain. The comedy festival boasts that it is the “funniest city in the world,” and I can see why. There’s a bridge across the Clyde that crosses on an angle so they call it the “Squinty Bridge.” Part of the narration of the tour today involved a statue of Queen Victoria with this commentary: “Glasgow was not Victoria’s favorite city and she rarely came to visit.” There’s a statue of Lord Nelson in the city center but they put a traffic cone on his head and everyone’s happy to leave it there because it’s a good joke. Billy Connolly is one of their favorite sons, and they have three murals honoring him, who they call the “Big Yin.” Although I can’t understand them when they speak quickly, I do like hearing the Glaswegian accent. In the Riverside Museum today, one real highlight was a recreation of a Victorian street in Glasgow. It was so well done. When you entered each store, they had videos playing of people involved in typical conversations from the time. I took a couple of videos of the ones playing in the pub because they were such good examples of the accent and the humor.Read more

  • Glasgow Cathedral & The Necropolis

    March 23, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    I got the hop-on-hop-off bus tour’s senior discount which gave me a second day for free, so today I went back on the tour to explore some of the stops. The choice of the city planners to use one of Glasgow’s highest hills for a graveyard for the wealthiest Victorian Glaswegians makes this part of the city feel like the setting of a gothic thriller. The signage for the Necropolis is quick to point out that these people made their fortunes through the slave trade and on the backs of the poor working class of Glasgow. I doubt it’s the tribute they were hoping for back in the day, but Glasgow tells it like it is. There’s a definite narrative of oppression here despite its rise in history to the second most powerful city in the British Empire. With this theme in mind, I took a short walk to the People’s Palace, a museum dedicated to the history of working people in Glasgow. Again, they tell a good story here — oppressive work environments, tragic loss of life, disease, wartime sacrifice, and always a wee bit of Glaswegian humor in spite of it all. There were the banana boots of Billy Connolly and a picture of Robbie Burns as Che Guevara. A trip to the gritty Barras Market fit this morning’s theme rather well.Read more

  • Kelvingrove

    March 23, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    When asked why the Kelvingrove Gallery was his favorite museum in the world, comedian and Glasgow native Sanjeev Kohli said, “I love a museum that loves me back.” I can see what he means. Whoever is in charge of creating the exhibits for this place deserves some kind of recognition. Every gallery had the most engaging and interactive displays with very thought provoking questions and real world connections. Walking through the door, I was welcomed by an organ recital in one of the main halls playing one of my favorite songs. And the galleries made clear connections to the time and place of the artists. The Dutch painters were brought to life as artists in a culture of wealthy merchants and humanists who were obsessed with daily life. The Scots were bound to the land in the Highlands so they turned their eye to the beauty of the landscapes. One exhibit asked you to put yourself in the place of various people in the painting. Another one asked you to come up with alternative outcomes of the usually tragic story depicted. A fairytale painting of Briar Rose had a little bed next to it decorated to resemble hers, so that kids could cuddle up and pretend to be in a deep sleep. Every culture was represented, every perspective. The whole thing was just so well done and engaging that I was exhausted and had to head back for a nap. There was also an unexpected Rutgers connection as they have a small statue of William of Nassau that is very similar to the huge one of the very same “Willie the Silent” on College Avenue.Read more

  • Kelvingrove — Scottish Identity in Art

    March 24, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    Last night I went to a stand up show at the King’s Theater which was part of the comedy festival. I saw two comics — Frank Skinner and Pierre Novellie. Both were great. I’m excited about tonight’s show with comedian Ed Gamble. Having both of these shows two nights in a row, I didn’t venture out today until it was time to walk downtown for dinner. I did have something from yesterday that I wanted to save in a post here. I really liked this exhibit from the Kelvingrove Art Gallery which seemed to bring together so much of what I’ve been seeing in Scotland this month. I’m storing them here so that I will remember the impact that all of these people and places had on Scottish culture. To follow the story, you would just need to remember a few people — Robert the Bruce, William Wallace, Mary Queen of Scots, Bonnie Prince Charlie, Robbie Burns, and the Jacobites — and a few places — Brannockburn, Stirling Bridge, Langside, Glencoe, and Culloden. In this exhibit they dealt with each in turn and explained how they became symbols of a Scottish national identity. It gets complicated because religion plays a huge part — most of the Scottish people became Protestants (John Knox should be added to the list of people) while much of what shaped the Scottish identity surrounded their loyalty to the Catholic monarchs. My favorite part of the exhibit highlighted artifacts from Jacobite homes which held secret symbols of this loyalty long after the Stuart throne had been lost to the Hanoverians. A white rose or a dagger were symbols of defiance. The Latin word “fiat” (“Let it be”) carved into a glass quietly signified a hope for the restoration of the Stuart kings. I’m currently reading “The Bookseller of Inverness” which is a mystery about the Jacobites in Scotland after the Battle of Culloden, and so much of the content of this exhibit plays an important part in the novel. This is my favorite way to travel.Read more

  • Inveraray

    March 25, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    Today I’m taking another full-day Highland tour. Our first stop was a place called Rest & Be Thankful as it is situated on an isthmus between two lochs and offers views that will make you grateful to be alive and in Scotland. Next stop was Inveraray which lies on Loch Fyne. It’s a beautiful 18th century village with a castle that was the seat of the Dukes of Argyll. Our driver today is a Glaswegian named Dave who is straight out of central casting. He is a 60 year-old, retired engineer who now leads tours and tells the history of Scotland to people from all over the world.Read more

  • Loch Awe & Castle Kilchurn

    March 25, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    Next stop was Loch Awe with the ruins of Castle Kilchurn and then a visit to St. Conan’s Kirk.

  • Oban & Castle Stalker

    March 25, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    Ferries leave from Oban to connect the mainland with the islands of the Inner Hebrides. I wanted to go to Iona and Arran but that’ll have to wait for another time. The one-day tours from Glasgow don’t start until Easter.Read more

  • Glencoe

    March 25, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ❄️ 37 °F

    Glencoe is famous for beauty and sorrow. Three high mountains, known as the Three Sisters, create a stunning valley along the River Coe. The valley is the site of the Glencoe Massacre, one of the darkest days of Scottish history. In 1692, the MacDonalds of Glencoe were slaughtered in their beds by traitorous Campbells who were following orders given by King William III. To this day there are signs in pubs in the valley warning “No Campbells.” The nearby town of Fort William was named after the king, but locals still refuse to call it by that name. They call the town “the fort” or “the garrison.”Read more

  • Glasgow — Mural Walk

    March 26, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    What a great tour today! An interactive website guided me through a trail of murals commissioned by the city a few years back to highlight various parts of Glasgow culture. There were more than 30 murals, each with its own story. One artist, Smug, really stood out. He’s an Australian artist who has been based in Glasgow for 15 years but paints murals all over the world. To get to them all, it took me four hours, but it really gave me a sense of the culture of the city and an excellent understanding of its layout.Read more

  • Greenock

    March 27, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    This was a special adventure today. One of the reasons I wanted to come to Glasgow is because Liz’s parents come from this part of Scotland. Her family is from Greenock, a suburb of Glasgow that lies at the mouth of the River Clyde. I have heard stories from Liz about the city from her many visits to see her grannies and her aunts and uncles, and also her stories of her parents growing up in Greenock. So today I took a train and spent the day exploring Our Lizzie’s Scottish home. She had given me an address where her granny lived so I started there. I was struck by the geographic setting immediately. It won’t come across too well in the photos because it was a cloudy, gray, and rainy day. Greenock sits all down the side of a high ridge that forms the south bank of the Clyde. Across the river you can see snow-covered Highlands and rolling green pastures. The city has a huge port, and a long Esplanade along the river. That’s where the mansions were as well as up in the highest neighborhoods near Lyle Hill with its amazing views and golf course. Its beautiful churches and civic buildings reminded me of downtown Jersey City. I ate lunch at The James Watt, which is a pub in the center of town named after the most famous person from Greenock— the inventor of a type of steam engine that was a huge part of the Industrial Revolution. Greenock is also known as a Naval base, having played an important role in troop movement for US and Canadian ships during WWII and also as the base for a submarine squadron for the height of the Cold War. There’s an anchor statue at the top of Lyle Hill to honor the city’s maritime history. The hill is named after the businessman who owned the largest “sweeties” company in Scotland at a time when Greenock was known as “Sugaropolis” for its sugar refineries. As I came back down the hillside, closer to Liz’s family’s neighborhood, I stopped to imagine how it all fit together. The men working at the docks, the sailors and soldiers coming off of huge ships in the harbor, factory workers walking down the hill from the neighborhoods overlooking the port, the wealthy owners in their mansions overlooking it all. And on Ann Street I pictured Lizzie as a kid during her many visits to spend time with her family, running an errand for her granny. I walked around for about four hours and really enjoyed getting a sense of life in Greenock.Read more

  • Birmingham

    March 29, 2024 in England ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    Back in England now, I’m already missing Scottish hospitality. After loving Glasgow so much, I was unsure about Birmingham, but it has already exceeded expectations. Victoria Square is the heart of the city with its museums, city hall, and library. Among its many statues is one honoring James Watt (Greenock’s favorite son) as being one of the “Golden Boys” who made Birmingham an industrial powerhouse. Watt came to Birmingham to make his name in science and industry. He made his fortune here, retired in a nearby suburb, and is buried in a Birmingham churchyard. In his last years he sailed in the steamer Comet (his invention) up to the River Clyde to return to Greenock for a final visit. I am loving it that James Watt’s story has served to connect my last three days of touring — Glasgow, Greenock, and Birmingham.Read more

  • Birmingham — Brindley Place

    March 30, 2024 in England ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    I’m sure Birmingham is studied by city planners the world over for its revitalized city center. The canal network that carried coal and iron during the Industrial Revolution made it England’s second city. However, these canals were made obsolete in the mid-20th century, and Birmingham was left with abandoned factories, warehouses, towpaths, and waterways that cut right through the heart of the city. In the 70s and 80s the city revitalized it all by building public spaces that drew people back to the canal paths — theaters, a symphony hall, an arena, an aquarium, amusement parks, shopping centers, restaurants, and boutiques. And it seems to have worked quite well. The canals are a vital part of the city’s pedestrian pathways. My favorite part is close to my apartment where the canal system goes above the city streets and boats cross bridges over the traffic below. Another highlight was the Black Sabbath Bridge where they have a camera set up for you to capture a photo on the bench next to Ozzy and the band (all famous Brummies). I also spent some time canal-side at a bakery cafe and later found the best Neapolitan pizza in the UK. I spoke to an Italian bloke there who gave me the sad news that Italians in England do not make “pizza gain” for Easter, so I won’t be having my favorite Easter pie this year. The good news is that Cadbury World is here in Birmingham farther down along the canal where the company began in 1824. I’ll be going there on Easter Monday. Chocolate is a great revitalizing force.Read more

  • Birmingham — Bourneville

    April 1, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    I took a walk along the canal to the University of Birmingham and then to Cadbury World. It was a beautiful day. It really felt like spring. Cadbury World was interesting, entertaining, and an exercise in patience all at once. Chocolate rewards made the lines bearable. It’s a neat story though — a family business that seems to have been ahead of its time in terms of the treatment of workers. They built a beautiful neighborhood around the factory which today is a very affluent area of Birmingham.Read more

  • Birmingham Art Museum

    April 3, 2024 in England ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Pre-Raphaelites were like the hippies or beatniks of the Victorian Era. They formed in Birmingham in the mid-1800s and challenged the status quo of the art world at the time. Dante Gabriel Rossetti was highlighted here, as was Edward Burne-Jones. I’d like to learn more about those two. William Morris is probably the most famous artist who was part of their group, and his art was influenced by their ideas for decades to come. I found this fitting because Birmingham is not like other British cities. It sprung up almost entirely due to the Industrial Revolution so it doesn’t have the long history of other British cities. It saw overnight growth, incredible fortunes made, and a growing population of working poor. Its history feels more American.Read more

    Trip end
    April 4, 2024