Kyoto

Got the Shinkansen bullet train to Kyoto. The check-in process is quite confusing as you need two different tickets as well as your Pasmo. Even locals visibly struggle with this system. From the outside, the train looks like it's from a different century but on the inside it was jam packed and about as glamorous as Ryanair flight. I should have reserved some seats as we ended up standing for most of the 2 hour journey to Kyoto. Lesson learned for next time.

Free walking tour
As soon as we arrived in Kyoto we dropped off our bags and rushed to the free walking tour we had booked. The guide was cheerful Londoner called Ben who had been living in Japan for 25 years. He took us through the winding roads of Kyoto city centre pointing out traditional building styles which have been kept as Kyoto was never bombed during the war. This was a happy coincidence resulting from the US secretary of state during the war had had his honeymoon in Kyoto decades prior.

Ben also pointed out folklore figurines such as Tanuki the Japanese badger dog that tries to get you drunk and steal your money. My favourite was easily the story of Benkei and Yoshitsune; medieval Japanese batman and Robin. Two accomplished warriors who fought each other in an epic battle on a bridge, made up, became unseparable and fought against the establishment Kamakura shogunate. While they lost, they are remembered for their loyalty and bravery.

We kept going to the Chion-in temple, home to reformist buddhist monks. It has the stairs made famous by Tom Cruise in the last samurai, ninja proof squeaky floors, a pokemon themed manhole cover and a vending machine that does buddhist chants when you pay. The coolest temple ever!

On we went up the Ninnen-Sannei Zaka hill past the stunning Yasaka pagoda, wrapping up the tour at Kiyomisu-dera temple with great views down on Kyoto. The street itself was full of lovely souvenir shops, views and quaint little sights.

We wrapped the evening up with dinner in the famous Pontocho Street. Finally we got to have wagyu! The rumours were not exaggerated as this was the most tender and juicy beef we had ever had. It went well with the more subtle flavours of the rest of the set beef dinner menu; tofu skin, crudité and mochi.

All in all, a good first day in Kyoto.Read more