May 13 Elgin

We headed away from Dornoch on our way south towards Inverness. First stop was to get a photo at Glenmorangie Distillery. It was my favourite from the whisky tasting in Inverness. I had tried to bookもっと詳しく
We headed away from Dornoch on our way south towards Inverness. First stop was to get a photo at Glenmorangie Distillery. It was my favourite from the whisky tasting in Inverness. I had tried to book a tour there but left it a bit late.
It was then on to Inverness where we turned to head east along the Moray Coast. About 30 minutes later we arrived at Elgin which is our destination for the night. Elgin is a lovely town with 3 supermarkets all next to each other and a motorhome friendly carpark around the corner. We parked up there and restocked supplies before a little bit of shopping in Marks & Spencer. We then wandered across town to find the ruins of the old cathedral. It must have been a massive building. Very impressive.
After that we headed out to our camp beside the River Lossie for a little quiet time and dinner in the motorhome.もっと詳しく
In looking at today's drive the night before we were a bit concerned that several of the roads were single lane and may not be that suitable for us so we modified the itinerary a bit.
The day was a meander along the lovely fishing villages of the Moray Coast heading east to Fraserburgh. First stop was Buckie where we filled up with diesel and coffee, followed by Portknockie where we stopped to see Bow Fiddle Rock and then on to Cullen which is a beautiful town with two train viaducts. We had a wander around there for an hour and admired all the beautifully maintained cottages.
We then proceeded to Portsoy, Banff and finally to Fraserburgh. There are very few tourists in this part of Scotland which is their loss but it means that the traffic was light and the driving easy.
We arrived in Fraserburgh and parked in a supermarket carpark to have some lunch before heading along the road to a "Motorhome Aire" which is someone's property where self-contained motorhomes can stay overnight. We met the owner Greg who showed us around and gave us directions into town. Boy could that man talk. We eventually made a beak for it and walked the 3 km or so into town. We opted to give the Scottish Lighthouse Museum a miss even though it is Fraserburgh's main claim to fame and wandered down to the port to find some serious fishing vessels that are obviously very capable of handling the North Sea conditions. From Fraserburgh it is less than 200 miles to Norway.
From there we had a wander around the town and ended up in the pub about 2.30 pm where we had a few beers that turned into a few more beers and then entrees of Popcorn Haggis and Jalapeno Chedder chips. By then it was after 5 pm so we had sticky toffee and custard puddings each and I had a very nice glass of Shiraz.
By then it was time to up anchor and stagger back to the motorhome. Fortunately it was down hill and down wind all the way back.もっと詳しく
We were a little slow to get underway this morning but it was a nice morning in Fraserburgh. We headed off trundling down our old friend the A92 which is fine as far as roads go but it is not wide and there are next to no places to pull over and let people pass. As a result progress is not fast. As we headed south towards Aberdeen a sea fog began to roll in off the Atlantic and the temperature dropped quite noticeably. We took the ring road around Aberdeen which was a great expressway with hardly any traffic on it.
Not long after that we arrived in Stonehaven which is a beautiful fishing village. We were too early to check-in so parked up and went for a wander around the town before having a coffee. We headed back to the camp to catch up on chores and have a quiet evening in the motorhomeもっと詳しく
We prepared ourselves for a big day. The plan for the day is to walk to Dunnottar Castle from Stonehaven and all going well back again. It is a 5 km walk each way with a good bit of climbing from Stonehaven up to the cliff tops. Fortunately the sea fog had cleared overnight and it was a lovely day although the breeze was a bit cool.
We made our way along the foreshore as far as the port and had a stop for coffee before tackling the path up to the clifftops. We made it with a couple of short stops and within a short distance the remains of Dunnottar castle came into view in the distance.
The castle was built on a rocky headland surrounded on 3 sides by the North Sea. There is steep path down to the base of the headland and up to the top of the headland making it easily defensible.
The headland has been inhabited since before Christ and the main castle was built in the 15th and 16th centuries although the chapel dates back to the 12th century. In the 17th century the "Honours of Scotland" being the Scottish Crown Jewels were hidden in the castle from the invading armies of Oliver Cromwell. Throughout history the castle has been occupied variously by the Scots and the English.
It was relatively quiet at the castle so we were able to have a good look around before making our way back to the port for a well earned couple of beers and a late lunch at the pub.
After that we headed back to the motorhome for a lie down and a quiet night.もっと詳しく
We followed the coast down from Stonehaven stopping briefly in Carnoustie to see the golf course and arrived at Monifieth Beach on the outskirts of Dundee about lunchtime. At that point we discovered that our camp was on the beach side of the railway line and that there were only 2 tunnels to get vehicles to the camp. One was 1.8 metres high and google maps was quite insistent that we should go through it. Our motorhome is 3.2 metres high. We eventually found the second tunnel which was 3.2 metres high. We did a few more laps of the area with the woman on google maps nagging in my hearing aids and some discussion going on in the cab as to our best option. We eventually found our way back to the second tunnel and parked down the road. I got out of the motorhome and went to examine the tunnel. It looked higher than 3.2 metres but there were plenty of scars evident on the roof of the tunnel. After more discussion we decided to give it a go. I mean that is why you have insurance right? I asked Gaye to stand opposite the tunnel which was also only 2.8 metres wide and to wave hysterically if it looked like I needed to back out of the tunnel. By the time I nosed into the tunnel a van had come up behind me which would have made a strategic retreat difficult. The driver leaned out his window and yelled something in Scottish which sounded encouraging and Gaye was giving me the thumbs up so through we went. Having filled in 45 mins trying to get into the camp it was time for a sandwich in the motorhome. I could have done with a Scotch!
After lunch we headed over to the train station and bought return tickets into Dundee which was only a 10 minute ride away. We wandered the streets of Dundee in the sunshine. We have been blessed with the weather. About 4 pm we decided it was time to head back to the camp and get ready to go out for dinner. The day lost its shape a bit at the point because the next train was not until 5.25 pm. We wasted a bit of time wandering around aimlessly and in the end decided to get a taxi back to the camp which didn't cost much anyway. After refreshments we wandered up to town only to find that the kitchen in the local pub was closed. We looked at a couple of Chinese takeaways but they didn't accept credit and debit cards so I walked out in a huff. We ended up going to the local Tescos and getting heat n eat roasts and a bottle of wine and wandering back to the motorhome. It can be quite difficult to go out for dinner over here as there are very few actual restaurants and most people go to the pubs which are great but all serve the usual pub grub. It makes you appreciate how spoilt for choice we are in NZ with the variety of eating out options. On the upside the Tesco heat n eat roast meals are a great backup plan.もっと詳しく
We were rudely awakened by Wendy at 7 am and after catching up with everyone back home we got ready for a bike ride on the National Cycleway which ran past the camp. However on getting the bikes down I discovered that Gaye's bike had a flat rear tyre. The bikes came with a tiny pump so I invested about 15 minutes in trying to blow the tyre up but there also seemed to be a problem with the pump so we gave in and went for a walk. It was another beautiful morning.
After breakfast and doing our chores we got away late morning and drove to St Andrews which was only about a 40 minute drive. We found our camp and decided to carry on towards St Andrews. However we were trying to find a carpark on the outskirts of town and that wasn't working for us. We were concerned about trying to navigate narrow streets and not being able to find a park. In hindsight I should have put my big boys pants on and just driven in as the streets were fine and there was parking around. However we retreated to the safety of the camp and checked in. After lunch we decided to walk into St Andrews which was a distance of about 2 miles. By the time we got there a sea fog had rolled in and it had got quite cold.
We had a wander around the ruins of the cathedral and the old castle and wandered some of the streets before having a cup of tea and catching a taxi back to the camp. A takeaway truck was cooking pizzas in the camp so that was dinner sorted.もっと詳しく
We had booked a walking tour for 11 am so we were on the ball relatively early and after two failed attempts to get an Uber to accept our pickup we rang a taxi to take us into town. The fog was still hanging around. We were early so had a wander around the 18th green and starters area at the Old Course. Gave me goose bumps after seeing it so often on tv over the years and most recently in 2022 when Cam Smith won the open.
We met up with our walking group at The Scores which is a monument to 5 people who were burned to death in the streets of St Andrews for refusing to renounce their Catholic faith. We moved onto the University which covers a large part of the old town. Some of the buildings are quite beautiful. About 46 percent of the students are from overseas. We went into the chapel, a part of which dates back to the 11th century. After that we moved on to the ruins of the old cathedral and the castle. After the tour finished it was time for a coffee and some lunch to warm up.
By the time we emerged outside the fog had pretty much cleared and the sun was out so we wandered back to the Old Course. I had read that on Sundays the course was normally closed and because it belongs to the people of St Andrews they are free to wander around with their dogs and have picnics etc. Must be a greenkeepers nightmare. However today was an exception as there was a tournament on. We wandered down a couple of holes and then crossed over to the iconic 17th and 18th holes and made our way back to the 18th green. We made a few purchases in the nearby golf shops and then found a pub to rehydrate. I then found a Turkish Barbers shop. The Turks seem to have a monopoly on Barbers shops in Scotland and are pretty well established in the taxi business also. The haircut went quite well and I was just thinking about the haircut on the Amalfi Coast with a demented Italian and a cut throat razor when he dips this giant cotton bud in some lighter fluid and sets fire to it. Next thing he is waving it around like a Fijian fire dancer and taking swipes at my ears. I was too scared to move and the room was filled with the smell of burning hair. Needless to say I was out of there as soon as I could and Gaye was left to pick herself up of the floor and pay fir the haircut. We ended up catching a taxi back to the camp with the barbers cousin. I could still smell the singed hair.もっと詳しく
We got away from St Andrews before 9 am. It was only a bit over an hour to Falkirk with a stop for coffee on the way. First stop was the Falkirk Wheel which we found with only one wrong turn so a good start to the day. We first saw the Falkirk Wheel on a TV programme Great Canal Journeys. The Falkirk Wheel was built where the Forth & Clyde Canal meets the Union Canal. Only problem is the Forth & Clyde Canal is 35 metres higher than the Union Canal. Based on one of Archimedes' principles they decided to build a giant rotating wheel to deliver boats from one canal to the other. Each side of the wheel has a giant tank with 250 tonnes of water in it. The secret according to Archimedes is that a boat will displace it's own weight in water. So if there are 4 boats on one side and and none on the other the weight of each side is still 250 tonnes. The electric motors used to complete a transfer from one canal to the other use the same amount of power as it takes to boil the jug 8 times.
I am pleased to say that Archimedes knew his stuff and we completed a loop successfully with a lap up the Canal through the Roughcastle Tunnel and back. An amazing sight to see in action. After our boat trip we had a bite of lunch and a cuppa in the cafe at the Wheel. The original plan was to stay the night in the carpark and ride our bikes to see the Kelpies which are about 5 kilometres away along the canal towpath. However, given that we were still a bike down and Gaye was reluctant to sit on the handlebars of my bike we had to look at another plan. After a little research we discovered that motorhomes can also stay overnight in the carpark at the Kelpies so off we went.
The Kelpies is a monument celebrating the part that Clydesdale horses have played in Scotland. Particularly working on the canals. The statues are 100 feet tall and weigh 300 tonnes.
We got the compulsory photos of the Kelpies in daylight and at sunset and stood around in the cold waiting for it to get dark but it never did. The sky was so clear and the horizon stayed orange right up until 11 pm when we called it quits and returned to the motorhome. It was down to about 6 degrees by then.
I did get up and look out the window of the motorhome at 3 am and the horizon to the west behind the Kelpies was still orange and the sky to the east was already welcoming in the new day.もっと詳しく
We woke to yet another beautiful morning. We are staying in Edinburgh for the next 3 nights but can't get into the camp until after 1 pm so we decided to head north to Stirling which is about a 40 minute drive away. We found a Park and Ride on the outskirts of town and caught the bus into town. Stirling is a lovely place with so much history and a bloody great big hill with a castle on the top. Fortunately the bus got us about halfway up the hill and we then walked to the castle. We bought tickets and were lucky enough to catch a tour with a guide called Pat who was very entertaining and informative.
After the tour we walked back down to the old town for a wander around and ended up having a very nice lunch in a Chinese restaurant. I bought a couple of spanners in case the urge struck me to fix the flat tyre on Gaye's bike and we then caught the bus back to the motorhome.
From Stirling it was a 60 minutes to our camp in Edinburgh although we added to that with a wrong turn that took a while to sort out. On the way we passed the 3 Forth Bridges which are all over 2.5 kilometres long and were opened in 1890, 1964 and 2017. Very impressive.
On our way down the motorway to Edinburgh there were signs on the motorway warning of an orange level weather event approaching so we got set up in the camp and settled in for the night.もっと詳しく
There was quite a bit of rain during the night but it had stopped by the morning so we got organised to head into Edinburgh. We had booked Edinburgh Castle tickets for 1 pm tomorrow so thought we would do a walking tour that I had found online. I summoned up an Uber which surprisingly was there in 3 minutes so we were off.
Our camp is 6 or 7 kilometres out from the centre of Edinburgh and we arrived there to find that it was quite foggy. We started our tour at the Balmoral Hotel which is a grand old hotel built originally for the railway. I read that the clock in the tower is set 2 minutes fast to encourage rail users to get to the station early. The only day of the year that it is on time is 31 December for obvious reasons. We then started up the hill where you could just see the castle from time to time through the fog. At the University there were lots of police motorbikes and black Range Rovers lined up. We continued our way up the hill to the Royal Mile and amused ourselves for another hour or 2 trying to find the things on the walking tour. At one point we were held up at an intersection for about 20 minutes until Prince Edward was whisked through accompanied by all the police motorbikes we had seen earlier. It was then time for a coffee so we popped into a very nice old hotel to take on caffeine for a change from the usual beer.
By the time we emerged from the pub it was starting to rain so we popped around the corner for a look at the castle and stumbled upon a shop called The Scotch Whisky Experience. I suggested that we seek refuge from the elements there. We booked a tour for half an hour later and wandered around the shop where we made a few purchases. The tour was brilliant. It was a very high quality audio visual display over several rooms with a guide showing and explaining the process to make Whisky. We finished with a tasting in an amazing room surrounded by one person's private collection of over 3,800 whiskies. Apparently the secret to getting such a large collection is not to open them. No fun in that.
By the time we came out it was after 2 pm so, as has become a bit of a habit lately, we headed to a restaurant for a very nice lunch. By then the rain had really set in and so after lunch we made our way back to the Balmoral and were lucky enough to grab an old London taxi and make our way back to the camp to dry out.もっと詳しく