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Jordan and Israel

October 2018
A short adventure trip around the sites of Jordan, before heading to Israel for the Scotland qualifying game. Read more
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  • TravelerJordan and Israel
    Day 4

    Qasr al-Bint

    October 8, 2018 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    One of the few free-standing structures in Petra, Qasr Al Bint was built in around 30 BCE by the Nabataeans. It was later adapted to the cult of Roman emperors and destroyed around the 3rd century CE. Despite the name given to it by the local Bedouin, Castle of the Pharaoh’s Daughter, the temple was originally built as a dedication to Nabataean gods and was one of the most important temples in Petra.

    The temple once stood 23m high and its features included marble staircases, imposing columns, a raised platform for worship, and ornate plaster and stone reliefs. The central ‘holy of holies’, known as an adyton, would have housed an image of the deities. The sacrificial altar in front, once overlaid with marble, indicates that it was probably the main place of worship in the Nabataean city and its location at street level suggests that the whole precinct (and not just the temple interior) was considered sacred.    Read more

  • TravelerJordan and Israel
    Day 4

    The Monastery

    October 8, 2018 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    From the main part of Petra, is a trail of mostly steps up for 2.5km to Ad Deir, or the Monastery. It's one of the largest in Petra at 47m wide and 48.3m tall. It's a considerable hike up, and has a little peak a bit further that has a great view over it.

    Hidden high in the hills, the Monastery is one of the legendary monuments of Petra. Similar in design to the Treasury but far bigger (50m wide and 45m high), it was built in the 3rd century BCE as a Nabataean tomb. It derives its name from the crosses carved on the inside walls, suggestive of its use as a church in Byzantine times. The ancient rock-cut path of more than 800 steps starts from the valley floor and follows the old processional route.

    The courtyard in front of the Monastery was once surrounded by columns and was used for sacred ceremonies.    Read more

  • TravelerJordan and Israel
    Day 4

    Viewpoint over Rift Valley

    October 8, 2018 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Further along from the Monastery a trail leads up to stunning hazy viewpoints over Wadi Araba, Israel and the Palestinian Territories and south to the peak of Jebel Haroun, topped by a small white shrine.

    After that I had to back track all the way down, through Petra and the Siq. A total of over 19km, tiring but a fulfilling day.    Read more

  • TravelerJordan and Israel
    Day 5

    Little Petra

    October 9, 2018 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We head to Siq al-Barid, commonly known as Little Petra, 9km north of Wadi Musa town. With its short, high gorge and familiar carved facades, it has similarities to it's big brother. However, although it sees its share of tour buses, is a lot less touristy than Petra.

    A short way along the road there, we park on the shoulder for one of Petra’s best views. A breathtaking sweep over the central valley of the ancient city, with many of the monuments in view, dwarfed by the mountains, where a local Bedouin is also admiring it.

    This whole area was a thriving community in Nabatean times, and there’s evidence in almost every cranny of Nabatean occupation. Just before you reach the Siq entrance, there’s a particularly striking facade on the right, with a strange, narrow passage for an interior.

    As you enter, you’ll realize why this was dubbed Siq al-Barid (the “Cold Siq”): almost no sun can reach inside to warm the place. It’s only about 350m long, with alternating narrow and open sections, and differs from most areas of Petra, firstly in the density of carved houses, temples and triclinia, there are very few blank areas, and secondly in the endearingly quaint rock-cut stairs which lead off on all sides, turning it into a multistorey alleyway that must once have hummed with life. In the first open area is what was probably a temple, fronted by a portico, below which is a little rock-cut house. The second open area has four large triclinia, which could have been used to wine and dine merchants and traders on their stopover in Petra. A little further on the left, stairs climb up to the Painted House, a biclinium featuring one of the very few Nabatean painted interiors to have survived the centuries: on the ceiling at the back is a winged cupid with a bow and arrow; just above is a bird, to the left of which is a Pan figure playing a flute. The third open area culminates in rock-cut stairs which lead through a narrow gap out onto a wide flat ledge; the path drops down into the wadi (Petra is to the left), but you can scramble up to the right for some excellent views.    Read more

  • TravelerJordan and Israel
    Day 5

    Amman Citadel

    October 9, 2018 in Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    After visiting Little Petra, we continue north on the Kings Highway over high mountains, until we reach a vast open plain. Turning east we re-join the multi-lane Desert Highway north to Amman.

    After dropping my bags at the hotel, and saying goodbye to Hassan the driver and Hakan the guide, I take a taxi into the centre of Amman. First up is the Citadel.

    This historic fortress, the Amman Citadel, is located on top of Jabal al-Qal’a, the highest of the seven hills around which the city was built (jabal means ‘mountain’, qal’a ‘castle’).

    The citadel boasts a diverse range of previous inhabitants, including Assyrians, Babylonians, Persians, Greeks, and Romans, as well as Umayyad and Ayyubid dynasties. The first signs of human occupation found by archaeologists date back to the Middle Bronze Age (1650-1550 BC). At that time, the hill top was most likely occupied with either a fortress or an agora (a public space for arts, sports and politics). You can trace the great ancient civilizations through the remnants of a Roman Hercules Temple, a Byzantine church, and a spectacular Umayyad palace, as well as many other ruins and fragments. I also visited the Jordan Archaeological Museum, where many excavated artifacts are preserved, including both every day items such as pottery, and the finer things of life such as jewels and statues.

    From the citadel’s vantage point, situated atop the highest hill in Amman, you can see far out in every direction across the beautiful city. As you look west, the tallest freestanding flag in the world flies proudly in the wind, and at the foot of the hill the amphitheater and downtown Amman buzz with life.    Read more

  • TravelerJordan and Israel
    Day 5

    Amman Roman Theatre and Downtown Amman

    October 9, 2018 in Jordan ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Under Roman rule, Amman was chosen as the glittering capital of the Roman Empire, but the city was then called Philadelphia, after its Ptolemaic ruler, Philadelphus.

    The theatre was built in the period 138-161 CE, which dates back to the reign of Roman emperor Antoninus Pius. The sole centrepiece of the city it was designed to be northerly-oriented, to keep the sun off its spectators, and could seat up to 6,000 people on its steep stairs.

    Like any other Roman Theatre in the world, it was constructed upon the same three building blocks: the cavea, the orchestra and the scaenae frons. The cavea is the seating space that contained the largest number of spectators. The highest rank was known as ‘the gods’; although far from the stage, this section offered a good view, thanks to the lofty position and steepness of the stairs. The orchestra is the area directly in front of the stage, reserved for VIPs to ensure they didn’t miss a split second of the action. The two stories rising from the stage upwards are the saenae fons, and were used as a backstage space.

    The spectators were intentionally separated by status, gender and nationality. The Romans had major control over the social hierarchy, and it was illustrated in all their archaeological works later on. The government of Jordan started restoring the theatre in 1957.

    Downtown Amman is the heart of the city and sits in the middle of the surrounding seven hills, which originally made up this metropolis. There is a fruit and vegetable market, where you will find vendors singing to entice shoppers to their stall.

    Many open shopfronts sell everything from clothing and antiques to gold and smaller trinkets. There are the six main streets – Prince Mohammad, King Talal, Quraysh, Al-Salt, Al-Hashemi and Basman, each have their own speciality when it comes to the goods for sale. King Talal has handmade goods, carpets and fabrics and Al-Hashemi for an assortment of souvenir stalls.

    I visit the extremely popular Habibah Sweets. They make and sell kanafeh, which consists of mild white cheese and shredded wheat surface, which is covered by sugar syrup, delicious!    Read more

  • TravelerJordan and Israel
    Day 6

    Tel Aviv, Israel

    October 10, 2018 in Israel ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    A very early pick up, 4am, for a 7am flight. The flight is delayed an hour to allow a big group of passengers coming from Bangkok to arrive. Finally take off and the flight takes....................26 minutes! Without doubt the shortest international flight I've ever had.

    I get into the hotel room early, and manage to get a few hours sleep, and catch up with some social media. I then go for some food, and explore the immediate area, before meeting up with Ray and Iain who arrive mid-afternoon. We find a local area that is full of cafes and bars, and sample a few.    Read more

  • TravelerJordan and Israel
    Day 7

    Jerusalem Beach, Tel Aviv-Yafo

    October 11, 2018 in Israel ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    A long lie in, followed by a late lunch. Then strolled along the beach promenade until we came across all the Scot's, congregating near Mike's Bar, where the buses to the game would pick us up later.

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