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  • Day 6

    London

    May 3 in England ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    “Too often travel, instead of broadening the mind, merely lengthens the conversation.” – Elizabeth Drew
    We arrived at 5:30am (thanks flight scheduling) into a grey foggy Heathrow. After a flurry of WhatsApp calls we found our driver for the trip to Highgate. She was Eastern European and did the driving jobs to support her studies. Nice electric SUV.
    Warm welcome by Sue and Blaise. Ursula acclimatised by socialising and a couple of local walks. Tony, for the first time ever feeling poorly after the flight, rested for several hours. Sue: “You looked grey faced with blue blotches”.
    Thursday 2 May. On our first full day in London we completed our Regents Canal walk. The canal runs from Little Venice to Limehouse Basin on the Thames River. We have done 2 previous sections on other trips. Remaining is Islington to Limehouse, right near the apartment in which we used to live.
    There was a little interesting back-tracking and bus travel before we finally found the towpath. Then it was a lovely long walk featuring the canal, locks, a stop for a really nicely made flat white coffee, varied and new housing, lots of narrow boats, long stretches of lovely parks, lots of cyclists and joggers. Walked past our former apartment at Limehouse to Canary Wharf for lunch. Then back home via DLR and bus. We much prefer the slower and cheaper bus over the tube. MUCH more scenic, especially from the big front windows up the top.
    Dinner out with Blaise and Sue at 500 Restaurant. Sounds much classier in Italian – Cinquecento. It is named after the famous Fiat 500. Had a delicious meal there last time we were in London (2017). The restaurant is Sardinian. Caught the bus there and back. Too much to eat. Too much to drink. Perfect. Food still as good.
    Friday 3 May. Grey miserable looking day. After the usual healthy and stimulating breakfast we set off to the Science Museum. (Stimulating because Blaise introduced us to Worldle, another brain game to add to our Waffle and Wordle morning warmups.) For the museum you have to pre-book online because of the large number of tourists. Went by tube this morning and realised why we prefer the bus.
    At South Kensington there is a long tunnel leading to the museum precincts. Full of tourists but protected from the steady but light rain.
    Fascinating few hours here. 3 floors of exhibits. We looked at Science City (1550-1800), Mathematics, Information Age, Flight, and the Energy Revolution. Could have stayed all day.
    Lunch at a café in South Kensington. Whole area was heaving with people. In the evening Sue had invited daughter Jo and Andrew for dinner. Lovely food and very interesting conversation. Late finish.
    On Saturday, 4th May we bussed to Westminster. Walked across the Thames at Lambeth Bridge and along the South Bank walk. The VERY LONG national Covid Memorial Wall lines much of the walk. About 239,000 children and young adults died, and there is a small red heart painted for each one. We were stopped by the seething wall of humanity caused by Westminster itself and The Eye. The uniformed man Tony spoke to said £45 for a ticket ($85.41 Aus). The web says £30 if you book in advance. Further away from the river the crowds die out and we found Archbishop’s Park. Green, peaceful with people playing tennis, hockey and football.
    We are meeting Patrick and Margaret (whom we met on a cycling holiday in France in 1994!) for lunch at the Garden Café in the Garden Museum. Green peaceful setting like the park. Lovely food. Nice to catch up with old friends. Afterwards we had a good look around the museum. Margaret and Tony climbed the 131 steps to the top of the tower. Spectacular views, somewhat cheaper than The Eye.
    Tomorrow, Northern Ireland.
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  • Day 2

    We're Off!

    April 29 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    “When preparing to travel, lay out all your clothes and all your money. Then take half the clothes and twice the money.” – Susan Heller Anderson
    The last couple of trips were tours. So easy.
    This time, we (mostly Ursula) made some bookings:
    9 various accommodations
    8 flights
    7 stays with friends/relatives
    5 trains
    2 ferries
    2 hire cars
    1 coastal cruise
    1 minicab
    We had a huge list of pre-departure tasks. With one thing and another we had to whittle it down. Gather what we need to take. Put it in the suitcases.
    Sai (from Uber – lovely guy) took us to Launceston airport. In Sydney, our new Opal cards took us to St Leonards where Geoff met us and took us to his and Kathryn’s home.
    Next day was relaxing in Sydney featuring early morning walk (for Tony and Geoff) and a ferry trip to Watsons bay for lunch and a very scenic cliff walk past The Gap.
    On Tuesday after a lovely breakfast, Geoff took us to the airport.
    The BA flight was 8 hours to Singapore. Short stopover. After exiting the plane we had about 15 minutes before re-boarding. Then 13.5 hours to London. We had no muscular or foot problems, possibly thanks to a friend’s ‘walking exercises’ which we assiduously performed during the flight. Also the Boeing 787 has better atmosphere: more humidity or something; and better sound insulation.
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  • Day 31

    Postscript

    March 22, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Here are a few bits and pieces which were not written at the time.
    “You need to understand the em-PHA-sis.” Indians use it differently from us. The word ‘Himalayas’ is very hard to understand when pronounced “Him-AL-yas”. Likewise with many other words from (particularly) our guides.
    In Varanasi, Manoj 2 told us about cows. “They are smart. The people who own them feed them. The cows wander during the day, but always return for their feed. If they carry milk they will only release it for their owners.” Being holy to the Hindus, cows wander freely through the city. Sometimes we saw them happily browsing among the garbage. Charm told us they once found 10 kilos of plastic in the stomach of a cow that had died.
    We bought power plug adapters for India. From Bunnings would you believe. Completely unnecessary in the genuine upmarket hotels. International plug sockets take Australian plugs with no problems. But, later on in the older hotels they came into their own, as well as double adaptors and an extension lead. One exception. In the Laxmi Vilas Palace hotel at Bharatpur our huge room had power points all around at waist height at about 2 metre intervals.
    Tony was spooked by the extremely zealous security for internal flights in India. For years he has been putting aerosol shaving cream in his suitcase which goes into the hold. Not this time. He bought that stuff in a tube that is supposed to lather. Slightly inconvenient, but mostly worked. Shampoo is another dangerous liquid. We bought the ones that are like a bar of soap. Works ok but expensive and who wants their hair to smell strongly of coconut? The things we do! In almost all hotels they supplied “locally handcrafted hair cleaning lotion made from all-natural ingredients” or something similar.
    Duty free: In Singapore Tony tried to buy some duty free gin to take home. Because our destination was Australia she wouldn’t sell it as we had to buy it more than 2 hours before departure. Too late. Any other destination, no problems. The lucky country. (Actually it was slightly cheaper on entry into Brisbane.)
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  • Day 27

    Agra to Delhi, then Home

    March 18, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 29 °C

    Early start today. 5:30. Ouch. Doesn’t get light until after 6:30. The best time to see the Taj Mahal is at dawn, so we did. Together with hundreds of other people. This day (for us) was actually very well-organised. After the Taj it was back to our hotel for breakfast at about 9am. Then plenty of time to pack before check out at 12 noon. Final Indian lunch was at Pinch of Spice a nearby restaurant. Poor Ursula was overwhelmed by the amount of food. Tony had a small taste of everything. He hasn’t provided a menu and photographs. Quiet 4½ hour drive to Delhi Airport. Poor Pradeep started to struggle late in the trip. He stopped several times. He still has a couple of hours drive to get home after dropping us off. Hope he makes it. He did say “I really enjoy driving old people like you around. Makes me think of my parents.” To us he doesn’t look much younger than we are. Maybe he’s had a harder life.
    At the airport there’s a different wrinkle on security. Big queues outside just to enter the terminal. You need passport and boarding pass (which we hadn’t printed at the hotel because we know you can always get them at bag drop). They do have boarding pass printing machines outside but we have never had any luck with them, and we could see hordes of people struggling to make them work. The ladies in front of us were turned away by the security guard. No pressure. Ursula showed the emails from the airline which, with our passports, did provide entry. Phew!
    At the airport we were not allowed to take water past security. (Maybe we might threaten to drown the flight crew.) Inside there were dispensing machines. Mostly it was that sugary gassy non-food stuff that Tony cannot understand anyone ever wanting to drink. Tony noticed that the machine also dispensed water. Price: 10 rupees. Do we need to remind you that is 20 Australian cents? For a bottle of fresh water! Try doing that anywhere else. Ursula worked out how to utilise one of our crumpled 10 rupee notes.
    We used some more notes having our final Indian meal. Kingfisher with nachos. Actually not bad.
    Gate lounge. Flight. Can’t remember.
    4½ hour wait in Singapore featuring large very expensive coffees and very comfortable waiting seats with excellent wifi.
    We arrive into Brisbane on Sunday evening, 19th March. 3 nights with friends Rick and Lorraine. Caught up with other friends for lunch the next day. Newly rebuilt Manly Harbour Boat Club. Sunshine, blue sky, view of many yachts in the marina and over Moreton Bay. Perfect. Flew home on Wednesday 22 March. All ok at home. Mandy and Keith have been calling in to water and check from time to time.
    Absolutely fantastic trip.
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  • Day 26

    Delhi to Agra

    March 17, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Pradeep collects us at 8am. Early start as we are going to Agra (202km – 3 hours says our itinerary – actually takes longer). Pradeep says we are to check in to our hotel at 1130. ITC Mughal Hotel. The hotel boasts a small view of the Taj Mahal from an eyrie reached by outside steps. “Check-in is at 3pm” we are informed at the reception desk. Oh no! We have a look around, and just as we are being given a temporary wifi code our room becomes available. 12 noon. Not too bad. Time for lunch and a small rest. Afternoon touring starts at 1:30pm.
    We meet our new Agra guide, Dheerug. Shortish and sharply dressed, he is very enthusiastic. To his history degree he added tourist guide training, specialising in the local monuments. He took a couple of panoramas for us. He handles the phone cameras much better than we can. He showed us pictures of his family of which he is very proud. Main attraction this afternoon is Agra Fort, on the banks of the River Yamuna. For its construction we revisit Tony’s old friend Akbar (remember his very sensible attempts to combine 3 religions?). There was a ruined brick fort on the site, but he completely rebuilt it from red sandstone as a military fort in 1565. He actually ruled in India from 1556 to 1605 and was extremely powerful and successful. These Mughal emperors amaze Tony. Akbar was only about 3 generations after Genghis Khan. Back then, the Mongols were nomadic warriors. Kill, rape, burn, pillage! Then they moved into India, built up a large and prosperous empire, and provided us with the many examples of wonderful architecture we have been seeing throughout this tour.
    We also visited Sikandra, also known as the crypt of Akbar. It was built by Akbar’s son, Jahangir, after his father’s death. It is made of red-coloured sandstone and has beautiful architecture and features lovely gardens.
    Yes, we did manage dinner tonight in our hotel. Really nice, slightly different Indian food.
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  • Day 25

    Delhi 2

    March 16, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Shiv finds us a shop selling tonic water today, 4 cans for $4. And an ATM. We need cash to tip our guides and driver now we haven’t got Ian to do it for us.
    For the first stop it was into the temple gear (clothing) for us. Jama Masjid: the great mosque of Old Delhi. It was built between 1650 and 1656 and is both the largest mosque in India and the final architectural extravagance of Shah Jahan. (He also built the Taj Mahal.)
    Next we do a bicycle rickshaw ride through the markets area, Chandni Chowk. Very very busy. Would have been hair-raising but we are now experienced riders. Tony took a video which unfortunately ended up on its side. Good luck [https://youtu.be/2wYtLIRzV5A]. Inside a spice shop (“my tea is much better than T2”), we found a number of things we could have taken home, but had left cash and credit cards safely in our hotel safe. These are wholesale markets hence the big bags of produce everywhere. As the streets are so narrow the goods arrive well outside the markets on trucks. Then the sacks are manhandled onto donkey carts or tricycle rickshaw things to all be moved into the market by manpower. This is just like it was several hundred years ago.
    Nearby we looked at the outside of the Red Fort. We will be looking inside one at Agra, so no need here. This fort is another product of Shah Jahan and was commissioned in 1638. Spectacular construction. It historically served as the main residence of the Mughal emperors. We had a lovely walk around some of the perimeter.
    Agrasen Ki Baori, step well. It was once a reservoir and is an example of ancient engineering. Although there are no known historical records to prove who built the stepwell, it is believed that it was originally built by the legendary king Agrasen, and the present architecture hints at it being rebuilt in the 14th century during the Tughlag or Lodi period of the Delhi Sultanate. It used to be the water source for the local people.
    Next was the UNESCO listed site, Qutab Minar. It is an astounding and impressively beautiful minaret and “victory tower” and was mostly built between 1199 and 1220. Lovely detail in the carvings see pic. Tower is 72.5m tall and is the world’s tallest brick minaret.
    We also visited the Bahai Lotus Temple which bears an uncanny resemblance to another monument with which we are familiar (see pic). It was dedicated to public worship in 1986 so is one of the newer temples we saw. It stands for the principle of the oneness of humankind. There were lots of people visiting and praying, as at almost everything else we have seen on this trip. Lovely peaceful pools on the outside.
    Yes, we did attend dinner tonight in the Oberoi Hotel dining room. First time we needed to choose from a menu for a long time. We both were very happy with the standard of the food, and the service was exemplary. Lovely farewell to India’s capital city.
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  • Day 24

    Delhi 1

    March 15, 2023 in Australia

    Walk in the morning (the walking group is growing in size), then sightseeing at Gurudwara Bangla Sahib, the Sikh Cultural Centre. The itinerary asked us to “immerse yourself in spirituality as you slowly stroll through the premises.” Most striking feature to Tony was the huge kitchen area. They feed 3 meals per day to, get this, 15000 to 20000 people. All the work is done by volunteers. Much of the food is donated and the remainder is purchased by the Sikh community. The operation is really efficient.
    Lunch at the Imperial Hotel, one of Delhi’s poshest. (Tony couldn’t eat much – not being on top of his game). Goodbye to our tour party.
    We meet Shiv (our next tour guide) and Pradeep (driver). Shiv is young, tall, thin and earnest. He has been working as a guide for 9 years. His dream is to open a restaurant as he loves cooking. In the off season (just about to start) he goes home to his family farm in the country and works there. We checked into the luxurious Oberoi Hotel New Delhi. V swish. Views of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Humayun's Tomb on one side and a calming view of the forested golf course on the other. Then the afternoon sightseeing started. Humayun’s Tomb. Nice green surrounds on this warm sunny afternoon. Built by the chief consort of Bega Bayum (aka Haja Bayum). Work started in 1565, 9 years after the death of Emperor Humayun, and was completed only 7 years later in 1562.
    Then we visited Swaminarayan Akshardham which is a modern Hindu temple. Built of pink sandstone and marble, it was opened in 2005. The name means “the divine abode of the Lord”. It is a spectacular building and one can well believe that more than 8000 volunteers spent over 300 million volunteer hours building it. No photos allowed inside, so we rely on internet images.
    Then in the early evening we stopped for a photo opportunity in front of India Gate, an imposing triumphal arch commemorating the Indian soldiers killed in the First World War. Shiv knows exactly where to position us to take the best photos. He took several of T & U in front of each monument. No need for selfies.
    No dinner! Unheard of! Tony simply didn’t feel like it. Ursula should have gone to dinner alone, instead ate all of the chocolates and macarons in the room!! The can of tonic water in the mini bar was $6, but we felt it was worth it, with some of Gordon’s gin.
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  • Day 23

    Bikaner to Delhi

    March 14, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Again Cathy and Peter joined Ursula and Tony for the enjoyable morning walk. We are flying to Delhi. Lateish start from the hotel so very relaxed. Here’s a plug for the hotel, remember it is called the Narendra Bhawan. This was the only hotel we stayed in where they removed the seeds from the watermelon slices served at breakfast. Not even at the Oberois.
    Bikaner airport is very small and seems to be operated by the military. We are very amused by the stop/start security. “Please open your case.” “Are you sure?” “Yes, please do.” We strip off their security tape (which they had just put on) and start fiddling with the combination lock. A bit later: “no, sorry, yours is ok.” Alliance airline. Very comfortable short flight. Some of the group were a little upset by the draconian internal flight rules. No alcohol allowed to be taken, unless the bottle was unopened. However, the bus will drive to Delhi tonight and will be there to meet us in the morning. Saved. Gordon was unable to finish his gin. Next day he gave it to Tony & Ursula to finish over the last few nights. We called it “Gordon’s gin” even though it was Bombay Blue.
    Upon arrival at New Delhi, as we board the bus at the airport, Manoj tells us: “We are staying at the JW Marriott Hotel in Aerocity. Only 1.5km from the airport so will take about 10 minutes.” In actual fact it is an epic trip from the terminal to the hotel. The 1.5km took 1½ hours!! Lots of roadworks. Thick, mostly stopped traffic. Every time we saw a likely looking exit it was blocked off.
    The Marriott is big and very modern. After the harrowing traffic a number of us met outside in the downstairs bar to sooth our frustration. Most popular drink was espresso martini. (Not T & U.)
    The dining room for dinner was fantastic. There were buffets upon buffets. There were large separate sections for Chinese, Thai, European, 2 different Indian regions, salads, bakery, desserts. It was impossible to do it justice, although Peter gave it a red-hot go. The dishes we tried were excellent.
    For your information Tony looked up the population. New Delhi: 25 million. Delhi: a staggering 45 million. The difference? New Delhi is the city which is the capital of India. Delhi is the province (state) containing it; a bit like the ACT in Australia.
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  • Day 22

    Bikaner 2

    March 13, 2023 in Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Started with our usual morning walk. Today we are supposed to go to Fort Bikaner, but due to the recent death of the late Maharaja’s mother it is closed. We looked at the outside with some explanations.
    Visited local co-op textile makers. Unbelievable the amount of blankets made of camel hair, wool and silk scarves and various other things people bought. Peter and Tony ran out of patience so went for a local walk. They took their allotted 30 minutes exactly, but a search party had already been dispatched. The tour was kept waiting. Manoj: “It’s on you. Drinks for all tonight.” They nearly had to get a tuk tuk back to the hotel.
    Went inside a very swanky hotel. Julie had stayed here on her last visit. Very historic and nicely decorated. It was part of the Maharajah’s home.
    In the evening was the diabolical Herbies Quiz Challenge. (Everything is a challenge.) Seemingly simple questions with only 2-choice answers. “All those with their hands up, please sit down.”
    Cathy won handsomely. Another lovely dinner at our hotel. Delhi tomorrow. Back to civilisation and reality.
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  • Day 21

    In Bikaner

    March 12, 2023 in Malaysia ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    Walked from 6:45 am with Peter and Cathy. Saw one young Indian couple walking rapidly. The man tried to talk us into meditation sessions. There were lots of dogs, some of which were not completely friendly.
    For sightseeing today, we first did a tuktuk ride to the street of havelis. These are homes of wealthy Jain merchants. The buildings are protected by the govt. These houses are much more ornate and obviously had wealthier owners than those we saw in Mandawa. Many of the decorations look like wrought iron grilles and gratings. They are actually all carved from red sandstone.
    Then we alighted and walked through the town markets. Can’t get enough of these. We saw: fruit of acacia tree which is a stringy green thing we have eaten several times; jelabi which is batter fried in ghee and then steeped in hot sugar syrup. We tried some. V sweet. Also saw the spice markets while enjoying the lively chaos.
    Then back to the tuktuk for a trip to the temple which is Jain (remember vegetalia, stricter than veganism). See group picture.
    Then tuktuk again to the miniature painting gallery: Example painted onto Ursula’s fingernail (pic). They make their own colours: blue from indigo leaves and green from moss. Red from the local sandstone. They use sap from trees as resin to mix in the colours and a very fine squirrel-hair brush to paint the fine detail. While visible to the naked eye, we also used magnifying glasses to really see the very fine brush strokes involved.
    We bought a painting of a sitar.
    In the afternoon we drove out of town to ICAR – the National Research Centre on Camel. After a good look around we drove out into the desert for a special treat. From our itinerary: “Evening will be visiting the Sand dune by Camel Cart and return to hotel.” Long drive off the main road in the bus along a very narrow sandy track. We meet camels, drivers and carts. Long sunset camel cart ride through the dunes. Peaceful and lovely. The lead camel decided to stop up a hill and was mulish in its refusal to continue. Destination is a magical setting for dinner. There is light by fire torch, music and dancing. The candlelit white linen setting reminded T & U of the Sounds of Silence dinner in the Australian desert near Uluru.
    Lovely evening. Dancing man of the match went to Gordon, just shading perennial favourite Russell.
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