Belgium

Belgium

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  • Day508

    Leaving behind some rather full bins from Vicky's clearout at Houffalize, we travelled on to the aire by the fire station at Arlon. Only 2 out of the 5 bays were empty and soon after we arrived, the 5th was filled so we were lucky to get a spot. Arlon's aire was one of a number in Belgium that offer free electricity. Very handy, especially in winter when it means we can use the electric fan heater instead of our limited LPG and batteries.

    As it was Friday, we (Will especially) had been looking forward to frites for lunch, so we set off sharpish before our bellies started to rumble. Climbing past rows of terraced houses we arrived at Arlon town centre. It had wide, paved, pedestrian streets which were becoming flooded with pupils from the local highschool who had headed out to pick up lunch. We looped round and saw a number of café takeaway outfits, but no specific friterie, so we settled on Paluca, a pink painted café advertising frites. It was packed inside so Will waited in line while Vicky, who was hungry, sat outside on a long bench in the square (nobody likes Vicky when she's hungry 😂).

    The frites were good (it IS Belgium) and Will accompanied his with a salad baguette. It felt good just to sit and take in the 'goings on'; the kids chatting, the pigeons strutting hopefully, a worker standing outside smoking. We are so often on the move, passing by, that we forget to stop and soak up what is around us.

    Beside the café was a 'Night Shop' (or Nacht Winkel) in Dutch speaking areas. Belgium is the only country where we've seen these small grocery stores that open only at night.

    After frites we spent a little more time exploring, climbing the stone stairway to the church, from whose grounds we could look down on over the slate grey rooftops. The square in front of Arlon's sandstone Town Hall was a car park, a tank stationed in one corner. We passed a poster advertising a procession with Saint-Nicolas, showing a painting of a character wearing a red mitre. We've noticed St Nic / Santa chocolates in supermarkets have been shaped so the foil wrapped around can either show a mitre or what we think of as a Santa hat.

    Back at the fire station the firefighters were gathered around ready to turn on their hose. Not wanting to delay them, we scuttled past only to hear one say jocularly in French that it was ok, we had an umbrella! Even so, we didn't fancy getting hosed down!
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  • Day1

    Het is vandaag de perfecte dag om het regenachtige België te verlaten en het slechte weer in te ruilen voor zon en witte stranden. Vol spanning wacht ik om op het vliegtuig te stappen en aan dit grote avontuur te beginnen. Ik zal het thuisfront zeker missen.
    You say goodbye, I say hello...❤️

  • Day470

    Leaving Luxembourg we entered Belgium; country number 12 of our European Tour! We are planning to spend 6.5 weeks here before returning to the UK for the first time in what will be nearly 17 months. We read today that the 'old' £1 coins would no longer be currency on 15th October. We didn't even know there was a new £1 coin! What other changes will await us on our return we wonder?

    As well as exploring on our own, we are meeting up with Will's daughter Beth and our son in law Richard for a weekend in Brussels before going WWOOFing for 10 days on a fruit and veg farm near Ypres.

    Our first stop, at Houffalize, wasn't far over the border. The little town had provided a free 10 place stellplatz divided from the car park by a mature Beech hedge. It was quiet and looked out on to a tree covered slope that rose gently away and had an enticing play park down a path to the right (to Will's dissapointment it was behind an 8ft fence with locked gates).

    It was Monday morning when we arrived and Will went to explore the shops. He returned soon afterwards exclaiming "It's shut!" "What?" "The town! It's shut!". We've found that several towns with small shops have made the effort to open at the weekend, but close on Mondays. We decided to stay a 2nd night and were pleased to find most shops in the compact centre were open on Tuesday. Our favourite was the charcuterie making and selling traditional Ardennes paté and saucisson, of which they had an impressive range.
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  • Day488

    On the 27th June 2016 the two of us and Poppy left our house in Netherton, Dudley and set off on a 5 year European adventure in Martha, our new home on wheels! 16 months and 22,200 miles later we are still on the continent but this will be our last monthly 'vanniversary' over here before returning to the UK for a Christmas time visit, just short of 17 months from the date we left.

    We've toured 12 countries from the southernmost point of Sicily to the northernmost point of Norway. Here in Belgium, our 12th country, we are closer to the UK than we have been in a long while. We are getting very excited about seeing people we know and love and treading familiar paths once again. Don't get us wrong, we love our nomadic life and are very glad we took advantage of the only time we wouldn't need to visit a UK garage after 12 months to MOT Martha. It has given us an unparalleled experience of open-ended exploration and allowed us, to a great extent, to live for the moment instead of our thoughts frequently reminding us of the end. One of the many things we have learned is that the views, opinions and memories of our encounters are very much shaped by things we notice for their prominence and novelty. Many times, the absence of something has far less of an initial impact, memories fade quickly as we acclimatise and adapt rapidly to new circumstances in different countries and regions. However, we have felt the absence of friends and family throughout our time away, apart from during the wonderful visits from those who have been able to come and see us. We knew before we set off to satisfy our wanderlust that we'd miss people, but as we've been able to cast off many of life's possessions, complications and day to day business, our focus has been drawn to the things that are truly important to us.

    We'll be seeing many of you soon!
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  • Day475

    We'd dropped off to the sound of car stereos and Vicky had been ill in the night, possibly from a dodgy mussel. The pavement was littered with fag ends and soda siphon gas canisters (the new drug of choice?)

    However, none of this had dampened our enthusiasm for the fun filled day ahead of us. The bus system was efficient (€2.50 for an hour's travelling) and we were soon meeting Beth and Richard at one of the tables outside Paul's bakery.

    We set out towards the European Parliament. It would be closed today but we still wanted to see the buildings. It was a couple of kilometres away and we enjoyed taking in the sights along the route. Especially when we saw the most amazing cookshop that we ended up losing ourselves in for almost an hour! We even found a wraught iron book stand displaying the 'Netherton Foundry' emblem, from our home town! Will and Beth love to cook and bake, Vicky and Richard love to eat their creations, so it was time well spent!

    The weather was extraordinarily warm for mid October and continuing on our uphill journey towards the European Parliament we become hot and tired, so picnic benches belonging to a hipster café in the park were a very welcome sight. We sipped on homemade lemonade and iced tea, under the dappled shade of trees, being serenaded by a couple of musicians playing jazz style music - perfect!

    Carrying on towards Parliament along busy roads, we passed a mix of old and new buildings, stone fronted houses with high windows where you could imagine with a horse and carriage waiting outside, were intermixed with glass fronted office blocks. There was a real contrast, but the thing they had in common was the layer of grime covering their facades.

    By the time we reached the EU neighbourhood we were ready for lunch, so settled ourselves down for Belgian fries and Stella Artois Juliper at one of the few pubs that was open. Feeling re-energised we went to have a look at the impressive glass fronted buildings in which a large part of the UK's future would be decided. (We later found out Theresa May was meeting Jean-Claude Juncker in Brussels the day after we were due to leave).

    Navigating the train network, we travelled back to the city centre where Vicky went back to care for Poppy while Will, Beth & Rich went for waffles - piled with cream, strawberries, banana. Afterwards, we all met at a bar on the Grand Place where we sat outside and tasted some more Belgian beer! - is there a trend beginning to emerge here? A view of the stunning square wasn't the only interesting sight this pub offered, a trip to the men's toilets made Will, then Richard stop in their tracks -see the photo!

    Being Saturday, it was the day before Beth's birthday and she'd chosen a nice restaurant (ABrussel), with modern, typically Belgian dishes, for the evening meal. It was a cosy place with an open kitchen for us to see the food being prepared. This 'Kitchen Theatre' turned out to be better than if dedicated entertainment had been hired! The food was excellent but the organisation and communication between the chef and waiters left something to be desired. We spoke English because English was spoken to us but a mix up meant we were each presented with beef that was well done, not rare. When Will told the chef he shrugged in a slightly confrontational manner and grunted as if to say 'yeah, so?' We got what we wanted in the end and had a great evening, but apologies and discounts were dolled out to many diners as they were leaving.

    To round up the night we stopped for a glass of bubbly at Beubles; a shabby chic champagne bar with old theatre armchairs on coasters as outdoor seating. It was a very enjoyable indulgence to sit and sip whilst taking in the sights and sounds of the European capital on a warm October night!
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  • Day477

    After our volunteering experience at Jan Ols Gården organic goat farm and riding stables in Sweden, we had caught the WWOOFing bug and arranged another placement for 11 days in Flanders.

    De Woudezel farm is an organic permaculture smallholding of 6 hectares, incorporating a plant nursery, food forest and a small number of amimals. Our host Diderik and his huge dog Lappa met us as we pulled off the main road into the farmyard as agreed, at 6pm sharp. Lappa is a cross between an Irish Wolfhound and a Briard, full of life and very, very affectionate! A black kitten soon came bounding up to join in the fun, purring happily when Vicky scooped her up.

    Life at Woudezel began with a tour of the animals, food forest and potted plants. As Diderik talked passionately about about permaculture, the philosophy of sustainability and working in harmony with nature, it struck a cord with us and we became increasingly enthusiastic about the coming 11 days.

    We'd heard of permaculture before, but seeing it in action was inspiring. Instead of being a labour (or chemically) intensive slog against weeds and pests in order to grow dense monocultures, natural systems had been created where a range of different plants had been planted thoughfully to grow alongside each other. Some would provide shade or protection from the wind, some would fix nitrogen and some would act as support. For example, a kiwi would be planted at the foot of a cherry tree and grow up its trunk. Grass and nettles grew throughout, their roots helping to bind the soil and their nutrients returning to it. Varieties would be chosen that would self propagate and often only a small amount from each plant would be picked, leaving seeds to fall and roots intact to grow more plants. The idea was for a 'permanent culture' that wouldn't be dug up and restarted annually, but that would continue of its own accord, with a small amount of careful and knowledgeable management. We'd had an amazing time on the previous farm, but already Diderik was sharing so much of his knowledge that we had an inkling we would get a lot out of working with him. Eventually the darkness forced us in to the large kitchen of the recently renovated farmhouse.

    Over the coming days, the more we discovered, the more we saw how far Diderik had progressed along the path towards a sustainable life. So much was put back into the system, with kitchen waste being fed to the pig, chickens or thrown onto the garden to enrich the soil. One kitchen tap was connected to a rainwater supply and used for washing and cooking, the other for drinking. A compost toilet was ready to be installed downstairs. Solar panels on the south facing stables harvested the sun to provide electricity (although the complicated Belgian system meant they must first sell the power to the national grid then buy it back). Diderik's cupboards were stocked food items such as coffee, juice, sugar, oil and flour from his brother, who is part of a cooperative shop in Brussels called Ethiquable. All customers are members who work there one day a month and recieve 30% discount on the ethically sourced food they trade in. One of the farm stable blocks now had a transparent roof, transforming it into a greenhouse. Plant matter and animal manure were combined to make compost, a process that produced heat to keep the animals and plants warm in winter and produce delicious black grapes.

    Diderik was keen to point out that there was lots more to be done but we recognise that there are many challenges to living sustainably, ethically and in an environmentally friendly way. We truly admire the aspects of his lifestyle he has adopted in order to pursue these goals.
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  • Day479

    We've talked a lot in previous posts about the farm ethos, setup and what we ate, but not much about what we actually contributed to it. Believe it or not we did work hard while we were there! Our first job was clearing dead wood from the forest area around the swimming pond. It had indigenous trees such as oak, birch and holly but had also been planted with american blueberry bushes, edible honeysuckle, kiwi, lime and many more species, some of which we had never heard of. The goats and rabbits enjoyed munching some of what was removed but the rest was taken to stack in one of the far fields where it would be left to decompose, providing homes for wildlife, some of which would help break it down. In a few years time, Diderik would start to colonise the stack with plant species, beginning with raspberries. It was heartwarming to see a hawk perched on the pile just a few hours later and a wren exploring between the branches the following morning.

    A thick wall of bamboo needed to be cut back to let light in to the forest and after we'd finished working on this, we set about clearing the spiky hawthorn branches Diderik had cut from the hedges. Long sticks were tied in bundles to fuel the stone bread oven, while smaller pieces were raked together and burned in the field where the ash would enrich the soil. Towards the end of the week Will got his wish and launched the little boat out on to the pond. Armed with a net and large plant pot, we removed a massive amount of duck weed from the water surface and raked the dead reeds from the shore. Ever the pig tucked enthusiastically into a trough of weed, a little was given to the chickens and the rest would e composted.

    As a less strenuous activity, we tended to some of the hundreds of potted plants Diderik was growing. Some were to plant out in the food forest but most were to sell at markets or to people he knew through courses. Local buyers would also come directly to the farm from time to time. For most of the pots, we needed to remove weeds then add compost and mulch. Some needed trimming, repotting or securing to a bamboo cane cut from the forest. Before we arrived, we reckoned we knew a good proportion of edible plants, but we discovered so many new varieties in the nursery here!

    As you would expect, most of the work was outdoors. We were lucky with the rain, but being October, it was sometimes wet. We spent these times working our way through three freezer drawers of Sea Buckthorn branches. Removing the tightly clustered orange berries was a slow task because we needed to be careful of the very strong, very large spikes that would pierce our gloves if we weren't. These berries were one of the many things Diderik used to make organic jams, some of which he would sell on at markets and some that we had the pleasure of sampling on toast, with cheese or in a stew at home. Belgian cuisine uses sweetened fruit in otherwise savoury dishes, for example we accompanied the roast chicken on the final night with yellow plums soaked in syrup.

    Our WWOOF host worked off-farm at another organic project 3 days a week, but during the time he was home, visitors came and went frequently. His Mum, Anne-Marie and 4 year old neice, Selestine came over when it was time to kill the chickens. Anne-Marie helped with the chickens and Selestine with the potted plants. We must mention the delicious Belgian chocolates they brought with them and left for the three of us- yet another of the many gastronomic delights! Near the end of our time, Diderik's Aunt and an older niece came to pass on some veal from a calf that had been in an accident on their farm and had to be put down. We got to know his friend Stoffel who was doing up an old mercedes camper van in one of the outhouses. He came with his two Border Collies, Izzy and Moss who grumpy old Poppy took a dislike to and scarpered back into the van whenever she saw them. Contrary to this canine relationship, we took a liking to Stoffel, who was initially a little quiet but once he got his teeth into a discussion, revealed well thought out opinions on topics such as immigration and multinationals, that were very close to our own. The back forth between the four of us was reminiscent of some of the political discussions we were so used to having in meetings and conferences back home!

    Diderik is passionate about spreading knowledge on permaculture systems, running various talks and courses on the topic. Seeing his system in action was one of the best ways to do this, so visitors would drop in for a tour of the food forest. As a new initiative, an acquaintance had begun to hold a Sweat Lodge in one of the fields, once a month near the time of the full moon. The sort of people who attended were likely to be interested in connecting with nature and therefore more links would hopefully be made to spread an understanding and perhaps the practice of permaculture. By staying at and working as part of the farm, more of these community webs were revealed to us and for a short time, we ourselves became part of De Woudezel's permaculture community. By writing this blog and talking with people we hope we can help share some of what we learned about a positive alternative to intensive modern monoculture farming. If you are interested or have any questions, we'd love to hear from you!
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  • Day498

    On Park4Night Will had found an unusual overnight spot. It was downstream on the River Scheldt, nearer the coast than our last stop and very close to the Dutch border. Doel is a town that stands in the shadow of a nuclear power station, below the water level of the tidal river used by cargo ships to access the port of Antwerp, Belgium's second largest city. All but a handful of houses are now abandoned and their walls used as canvasses for graffiti artists. We felt drawn to stay at such an unusual place.

    As we approached, the area became hyper industrial. Coal mountains sat on docksides, parked lorries lined the lanes, trains full of new cars lay waiting to be transported to dealers. Temporary chicanes and speed bumps announced our arrival to the run down settlement that was once home to a thousand or so people. Windows and doors were boarded up with sheets of silver metal. The van fitted into a bay just off the road, on the church car park. The graveyard and grass outside was well maintained and it was clear from the Chrysanthemums that people had visited relatives just a few days previously.

    Watching from inside the van, we saw nature had begun to take back the vacated spaces. There was an ever present background hum of heavy industry, but cutting through this, Jackdaws cawed from roof tops and we noticed a few hopping in and out of a crack in the side of an attic. Two tailess cats ate from plastic cartons left out on the road and later climbed the Elder tree to try and catch a Jackdaw. Cars occasionally came and went, mostly containing sightseers such as ourselves who wandered the quiet streets taking snaps. Upon investigation we found an open café and three inhabited houses, two attached to empty homes either side and one stately looking detached building behind an iron fence. These were all free of graffiti. As well as the house owners, there was evidence of squatters, with paths tramped through overgrown grass and metal sheets bent back from doors.

    Running along one edge of the crosshatch pattern of streets was the huge levee bordering the river. Climbing up crumbled concrete steps and walking along its ridge, we had a view of long barges powering up the channel, their size put into contrast by the leisure boats in the small marina adjacent to the dyke. Accross the river were industrial gas holders and wind turbines. To the left, an old but well maintained traditional windmill, dwarfed by grey concrete cooling towers of the nuclear power station. To our right were outlines of cranes, dock loaders and tall pylons. It wasn't the countryside setting we normally gravitate towards but it was certainly intersting!

    Walking back through the abandoned streets we thought what a good setting it would make for an episode of Dr Who or a horror movie. We sat with a cuppa, scaring ourselves with made up stories involving a graveyard, a nuclear leak and abandoned houses containing who knows what! Back in real life, just after 7pm all was dark and quiet outside when we heard a bang on the back of the van. Will went out to investigate as Vicky peered nervously from within the doorway and spotted one of the tailess cats running for cover. We reckon it had jumped up on the bike rack to test it out as a potential hunting platform.

    An otherwise quiet night brought with it the first frost of winter, its tiny sparkling crystals covering Martha Motorhome. A large sun was rising over the misty river, tinting the chimney emissions in the east with a burnt orange hue. Its rays found pockets of clear water and reflected brightly off them, silhouetting the industrial infrastructure of the port. Vicky enjoyed a good half hour with the camera that morning!
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  • Day493

    De Gavers country park was one of the best places we'd found to stay so far in Belgium so we decided to return for a couple of nights. Despite having several large cities in this region of Belgium, the majority of land is very agricultural and we passed fields of brassicas and harvested sugar beet. As well as growing plants, the flat fields are used to keep an interesting range of animals. We've seen a lot of horses, deer and donkeys. Sheep and goats are a regular sight although they are often specialist breeds such as pygmy goats. According to our WWOOF host Diderik, Belgians have not tended to eat lamb or mutton regularly, but the muslim population are creating a growing demand for it.

    Will enjoyed a canalside cycle ride at De Gavers but Vicky was poorly and only managed a short walk along the lake shore. We are beginning to think more and more about our imminent return to the UK and reluctantly about the job of giving the van a clear out now we have more of an idea of what we need and what we don't. For example, we were ashamed to find we had three oyster shuckers on board - does anyone need one? 😂
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  • Day495

    We'd heard good things about Ghent from Diderik, our WWOOF host and were looking forward to our visit. Leaving the van along with others on a spacious free car park next to a rowing club on the riverside we began walking the few kilometres in to town.

    From the student area, water polo court, kayak club and flats that looked like university accommodation we passed into a neighbourhood that seemed to have united behind a community campaign. More than a dozen houses displayed posters demanding a 30kmph speed limit and a change to the traffic circulation. After translating one we found it focussed on the thousands of vehicles that passed their houses every day. A lot of building and roadworks were taking place; grand old stone buildings with arched windows and embelished facades were mixed in with popup flat roofed concrete boxes with no character.

    Even in the suburbs bicycles were well provided for with quality bike lanes. Cyclists and parked bikes increased the closer we got to the centre and it made a difference on the roads. Like Brugge, Ghent's canals were alive with heavily laden tourist barges offering a different perspective on the city. We like the feeling these waterways give a city centre, breaking up the slick of concrete and high rise blocks. Old stone bridges arched over these canals, and as the sun was high, many of those cast with shadow appeared in black and white, as if watching a movie of years gone by.

    Our first stop was Vrijdagmarkt square where a Friday market was still held. Vicky picked up an 'appelflap' pastry and Will a pot of cooked snails in a spicy celery sauce. Despite it being crowded here in the centre, it wasn't particularly noisy. Café tables lined many a cobbled street with people sitting quietly sipping hot drinks.

    Making our way towards Avalon, a vegetarian restaurant, we passed Ghent's well maintained but small castle. Unfortunately Avalon had a sign in its window stating it had 'closed forever' so we chose a frituur and had fries for lunch instead; it is Belgium after all! We later discovered the vegetarian restaurant was running on site at the farm where the food for all its dishes is grown!

    When working at De Woudezel, our host's friend Stoffel had brought round cheese from the small organic cheese co-operative he worked for. It was real quality produce and we'd resolved to visit their base in Ghent to get some for ourselves. On the way we came accross an alley that had been given over to graffiti. A group of young men seemed to be trying to film a rap video but we were just two of the many people they politely encouraged to walk past them. The street just looked too interesting for inquisitive tourists to leave it alone for too long! The day turned into a culinary tour of Ghent when we were lured down yet another interesting side street; this one strung with colourful bunting. Down here we found Mie Vie; a vegan café. Deciding to make up for the closed veggie restaurant, we ordered tea and fruits of the forest muffins which turned out to be some of the best we've eaten. The atmosphere was chilled and we enjoyed relaxing before setting off once again towards the cheese shop.

    Het Hinkelspel was a kilometre or so out of town in a factory building adjacent to a canal. From the road we could see large cheese rounds maturing on shelves and stepping inside, the shop just blew us away; we'd never seen so much artisan cheese! We explained that Stoffel had brought cheese to the farm and we'd liked it so much we'd come to buy some of our own. Ordering Vicky's favourite white cheese and some smoked with seaweed in, we asked for blue and were given tasters of the 8 week old, then the 8 month mature. Both were gorgeous but the older one was so rich and creamy we decided to get a big chunk. To our surprise, the person serving added a good sized end of the smoked cheese to our growing pile. We'd already picked up some local honey but asked if there was a nice dry red wine. They had two, but drew our attention to the 8% ale they had designed to compliment their cheeses. It was a no-brainer, all that was to be decided was what size bottles to get. The person serving suggested we take a couple of small ones from the fridge to have straight away but Vicky wanted to wait until we were back to drink them. Will fancied a bench picnic, but we went for 2 large bottles in the end. We paid and were on our way out when the person serving grabbed a chilled bottle and handed it to us "here, just in case you do find a bench somewhere!".

    We were grinning from ear to ear as we left. This Organic Co-Operative is just the kind of business we like to support. Its products speak for themselves and it is ethically aware, but on top of all this we were given an wonderful experience as customers, not to mention the much appreciated freebies!

    It had been a full day in a fun city with a progressive vibe. We were both tired but happy when we returned to the van, so instead of cooking, we did as the locals were doing and visited the frite cabin at the far end of the car park for a veggie burger and shared bag of fries. There were even some left over for Poppy!
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You might also know this place by the following names:

Kingdom of Belgium, Belgien, Belgium, België, Bɛlgyium, ቤልጄም, Belchica, بلجيكا, ܒܠܓܝܟܐ, Bélxica, Belçika, Бельгія, Белгия, Bɛliziki, বেলজিয়াম, བེལ་ཇི་ཡམ།, Belgia, Belgija, Bèlgica, Belgie, Бельги, Gwlad Belg, བེལ་ཇིཡམ, Belgium nutome, Βέλγιο, Belgujo, Bélgica, Belgika, بلژیک, Beljik, Belgique, Bèlg·ique, Belgjo, Belgje, An Bheilg, A'Bheilg, બેલ્જીયમ, Yn Velg, Belgiyom, בלגיה, बेल्जियम, Belgiska, Bèljik, Բելգիա, Belgica, Belgía, Belgio, ベルギー王国, gugdrbelgi, ბელგია, Ubelgiji, Бельгия, បែលហ្ស៉ិក, ಬೆಲ್ಜಿಯಮ್, 벨기에, بەلژیک, Pow Belg, Belsch, Bubirigi, Belsj, Beleziki, ເບວຢຽມ, Belejiki, Beļģija, Belzika, Белгија, ബെല്‍ജിയം, Belġju, ဘယ်လ်ဂျီယမ်, Bhelgium, Bel’gii, ବେଲଜିୟମ୍, بلجيم, Bilhika, Ububiligi, Belgiu, Bêleze, Belezîki, බෙල්ජියම, Belgicko, Beljium, Biljam, Belgjika, பெல்ஜியம், బెల్జియం, Béljika, เบลเยียม, Belhika, Pelesiume, Belsum, بیلجیم, Bỉ, Beldjike, Orílẹ́ède Bégíọ́mù, 比利时, i-Belgium

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